Kalista Kulinova

My Kokoshnik

A Russian woman's headdress.
These headdresses were worn throughout Russia, perhaps even into Mongolia far back into ancient times. My research has focused on the areas of Kiev, Moscova and Novgrod.
In this display I hope to walk you through the process I took in creating my own kokoshnik based on photos I found of a 10th Century kokoshnik.

Example Kokoshnik

Top view (screen shot off my phone... I cannot remember where I found the original graphic, but would not be surprised if it came from Pinterest)

Example Kokoshnik

front view (screen shot off my phone... I think original graphic was from Pinterest)

The Base

Beginning With Creating A Pattern

I used red velvet as the cover fabric and yellow felt as the inner stiffening material.

Outlining The Boarder & Grid

Using white thread to contrast, I outlined the boarders of the cover material, and mapped out a grid system to follow.

Outlining

Grid Lines

I did have to re-put in the grid lines after chalking as to not loose the pattern as time went on.

Chalked Pattern

Basing my design on key elements within the original piece, I chalked out the embroidery.

Tools

I Used A Rolling Frame

The use of a rolling frame is to keep the fabric taunt and in place.

Choice of Materials

I used DMC metallic gold as well as pearl threads (a deviation from the original to add color, while matching the sheen of metallic gold) I also used a variety of semi-precious stones and glass beads as was customary in period times.

Front & Side Embroidery

Use of Color in Center Quadrant

The division from using strictly gold as in the original allowed me to accentuate items, it allowed me to develop a for-ground and back-ground. Techniques that were used within 12th century kokoshniks.

Gold Work

The main stem used a chain stitch. The leaves, and flowers used a solid stitch, outlined in gold with a satin stitch.

Half-Completed

The embroidery for the first side took around 10 hours. (A lot faster then I anticipated)

Completed

Looking at the finished embroidery of the front I can see difference from the right to left caused by the free-handing the chalking (as needed for touch ups) but the overall effect is what I was wanting it to be.

Bead Work

Choice of Beads

I used Chrysoprase, a mixture of agates and moss opal as well as clear glass beads, as well as bronze filigree.

Bead Layer 1

Layer one was the obvious beads, as to follow (ish) the motif in the original piece, with color variation... looking closely the glass beads are added to the gold vine to fill in the chain stitch. (this effect could be done using glass beads or seed pearls)

Final Bead Layer

In the second, and final, round of beading, I added in freshwater pearls, more chrysoprase and more agates to add further depth and dimension to the vines. Silver filigree with clear glass beads were added to give a diamond/snow like quality.

At this point, I had stopped logging how long things took me... but again, the project was progressing far faster then I had anticipated.

The Top Part of The Kokoshnik

On To the Top

Again I measured out my basic shape and basted my boarder with white contrasting thread, then chalked out my pattern using choice motifs from the original piece. I chose to focus on motifs, thus enlarging them rather then trying to fit all the embroidery from the original 10th century kokoshnik, both for personal taste (I like simplicity over busy) and for the aspect of being able to better tell a story from the picture.

I did notice from the original peice and abundance of birds, and that each bird had a rather unusual "headdress" which caused me further research into the symbolism of birds in Russian embroidery... but more on that later.

First I wanted to build on the obvious mirrored motifs that tie the top and the sides.

The Embroidery

Basic Embroidery First

Laying down it's own form of grid lines and balance. No problems here and a lot more gold then the sides.

Meet The Birds

Here is where my research got interesting. Russian embroidery had a "basic bird" like a dove-like bird which still represented the sky and some divine so they always had the three jewels on their crown. But then the center birds had larger tails displayed more... So I found that Peacocks were introduced into Russian embroidery by the Byzantium influence (makes sense). I did choose to make them in color to better represent what they are, and bring them into the foreground of the piece.

The Beaded Layer

Beaded Layer Done

The top got to combine the two beaded layers from the sides into one layer. I found some sand agates large enough for the centers of the large white flowers. Again using moss opal, freshwater pearl, a mixture of smaller agates, clear glass beads and adding blue glass beads for the peacocks.

The "grape" clusters were also a motif I added myself to better tie in the vines.

The Trim

Store-Bought Trim

I had tested a bought trim I had laying around the house next to the embroidery... not really happy with it.

Making Gold Trim

I had a hard time finding a gold trim I was happy with for the kokoshnik, so a friend suggested I make one to match.

Materials for Trim

I found a lovely gold woven fabric and used the same DMC metallic gold thread as in the kokoshink, with gold seed beads to create clusters and vines. I made the band wide enough to be used as bias tape to fold around the bottom edge and reach up into the kokoshnik giving it a finished edge

The Skeleton

A Skeleton Comes to Life

I had stiffened two layers of felt and hand sewn them using a whip stitch around the crown and down the back. Then I used braided wire to increase the stability of the crown seam.

Internal Look

By leaving the braided wire detached from the felt, I am hoping to ease in cleaning as needed, and packing.

Finishing Edges

I used a whip stitch to secure the trim to the inside of the felt... and a hidden whip stich to secure the trim to the outer, decorative layer.

The Finished Product

Major Take-Aways From This Project

I learned that I am capable of creating a variation on a 10th-12th century kokoshnik using what materials and skills I have available to me, and am happy with the results of my work. (Some may remember a kokoshnik I was working on years ago, I had abandoned that project due to loss of key materials, and finding irreversible flaws in the basic design. This attempt corrected those mistakes.)
Completely hand-sewing a project is not as scary as I have previously believed. It was only at the completion of this project, that I realized I have not used a machine for any sewing. AND it didn't take 6months to a year as originally anticipated. Ok, I have to give some credit here to sheltering in place due to COVID, this gave me the hours per day needed for this project to be completed in such a short time period.
Gold thread is not as "evil" as I had previously believed. Or at least DMC gold metallic thread is tolerable. It's still likes to gunk up and fray, but I could anticipate that and compensate... maybe I am just learning the ins & outs of the technique.
I am intrigued by the symbolism of birds in Russian embroidery and will research more about the various animal/nature symbolism within the time period.
I would likely make another... my oldest daughter might appreciate one, and I can try a different design.

Page updated

Report abuse