Hand carved block, printed on linen. The 'cote' itself is made completely reversible with black linen printed with red design with brown linen lined. I used historical buttons for the front closure and sleeves.
Next was finishing the cote by adding the lining layer. I matched this to the black pattern so that it would be the same, and trimmed off any of the brown linen so there wouldn’t be any extra bulk. Then ironed all the seams open and flat, which helps to line up all the seams lining the garment. I ran a running stitch down the back, sides and sleeves to help make sure the garment gets sewn correctly. I had Uther do one more fitting at this point, and we did make a couple of alterations to the length and the waistline ( he wanted it shorter and the fit to be a bit closer). Then I hand sewed all the hems, neckline and sleeves. I added pewter “nipple” style buttons( historical buttons for the front closure and sleeves) to the front closure and the sleeve closures. I ended up attaching them to the edge of the front closure line so that when the garment is reversed it will still look correct. Hand sewed all the button holes. Then ironed the entire thing one more time, rolled it to clean it of cat helper furs then packaged it up for delivery.
Black light weight linen, brown light weight linen.
Washed on the hottest (with vinegar to set the color) and dried on the hottest setting. I wanted all the shrink and color to be set, and cleaning the fabric on the hottest and vinegar helps to set the colors. I then ironed the fabric prior to laying out my pattern and cutting. This makes the pattern lay right, and you don’t fight the fabric when it's wrinkled.
I drafted a couple of patterns to fit Uther, and we met for at least three fittings to make sure everything fit just right. I wanted to make sure the arms and armseye fit right so that the seams didn’t blow out when he was moving or helping to set things up.
Once the pattern fit, we met again after I cut the primary layer (black linen) and did one last fitting before block printing and finishing the cote.
I hand carved a linograph block ( period would be a wood carved block, but my elbow can't take the intensity carving wood offers.) Linograph blocks are linoleum glued to a wooden block. I carved the design that Uther wanted on his cote into the lino block. Then printed the black fabric by chalking the black with guidelines. What I did was cut out about 7 blank paper circles the same size as the block and layed out the design on the cut black linen pattern (I had finished the edges but had not put the cote together completely, I sewed the center back together so that I could print the design on flat and the seams would line up nicely). I let the paint( fabric paint) dry for two days then I heat set the entire cote by ironing (with a piece of muslin between the iron and the cote).
Examples and inspiration for the printed cotehardie:
National Library of France, Manuscripts Department, Western Division