Attitude: Fencing is often called the sport of kings, a respectable sport. Not only because of its obvious history with nobility but also because it is steeped with the tradition of royalty, respect and civility. Politeness on and off the court (strip) is integral to the sport. In fact rudeness and lack of control can earn a fencer a black card (more on that later) and removal from play.
Advance - Taking a step forward (towards one’s opponent.)
Attack - Offensive movement, or series of movements by which a fencer tries to score a point. In foil and sabre, the fencer who attacks first acquires the “right-of-way.” In order to execute an attack properly (i.e. one that the referee will acknowledge), the fencer’s hand must be clearly extending towards their opponent’s valid target in a threatening manner.
Balestra - A short, sharp jump forwards; usually used as a preparation for an attack. Often followed by a lunge.
Beat - Sharp tap on the opponent’s foil to initiate an attack or provoke a reaction.
Disengage - Evasive action in which the fencer avoids the opponent’s attempt to take their foil.
Engagement - Contact between the fencers’ foils - often as the prelude to an attack.
En Garde Position - taken before fencing commences.
Feint - A false attack intended to get a defensive reaction from the opposing fencer, thus creating the opportunity for a genuine attack. (“feint-disengage attack”).
Foil - Descendent of the court sword. The foil was used for training in the duel and featured a blunted (or foiled) tip.
Lunge - Most common attacking footwork technique, in which the fencer launches themselves at their opponent by pushing off from their back leg.
Parry - Defensive action in which a fencer blocks his opponent’s foil.
Recover - The return to the en garde position after lunging.
Riposte - Defender’s offensive action immediately after parrying their opponent’s attack.
Foil: Foil tends to feature a rich array of tactics, mobility, and long complex attacks. Look for a balance of aggression and defense.
Epee: Epee fencers tend to fence defensively, so look for subtle tactics and deeper strategy.
Sabre: Sabre tends to be a fast and simple game, where athleticism and aggressiveness are key. Defensive options are often limited. Look for simpler tactics, and lots of movement
The foil used by fencers today is the modern version of the original practice weapon used by nobility to train for duels. It all evolved as fencing for exercise - based on speed and skill – (as opposed to the ability to cut someone in combat), began to emerge. As this practice became more popular, a longer, lighter weapon was developed. The weapon’s extended length forced opponents to fight at a distance with quick but controlled lunges, attacking the enemy with the point of the sword, replacing rudimentary hacking techniques. Under Louis XIV in France, a change in fashion led to a new kind of sword, a shorter sword. (Apparently the long sword clashed with the brocaded jackets, breeches and silk stockings.) The court sword, as it was known, turned out to be an excellent weapon for fencing because it was both lighter and stronger, so it could be used for defense as well as offense. As a result, the modern one-handed fencing technique developed, with the left hand and arm used primarily for balance.
To score points with the foil: The fencer must land the tip of the foil along the torso from shoulders (shoulders don't count) to hips in the front or back. The arms, neck, head and legs are considered off-target. Off-target hits will temporarily halt the fencing action, but does not result in any points being awarded. Attacks to the face are considered rude and therefore illegal. You have to remember, fencing prides itself on being a chivalrous sport.
The right-of-way rule states that the fencer who started to attack first will receive the point if they hit a valid target, and that their opponent is required to defend themselves. (In other words, you don’t get points by running onto your opponent’s foil once they have established the start of their attack.) However, if a fencer hesitates for too long while advancing on their opponent, they give up right-of-way to their opponent. A touch scored against an opponent who hesitated too long is called an “stop-hit.”
Red card = A point is awarded to the offended party. Also, a second yellow card action in the same bout results in a red card. An example of a red card offense would be dangerous, violent or vindictive action; blow with guard or pommel. Another more common example is the fencer who comes to the strip and whose first two foils fail inspection – they have to get a third foil and they start the bout down 0-1.
Black card = The worst offense. If a fencer receives a black card he/she is kicked out of the tournament. An example of a black card offense would be insulting a referee, or throwing a fencing weapon or mask down on the strip.
Foil Work: This is perhaps the most difficult of the essential skills to master. It permits a skilled fencer to deceive his opponent and reach the target area despite attempts of an opponent to defend themselves. The fencer needs to be strong enough to execute parries and beats of the foil against their opponent’s but also need the fine motor coordination and dexterity to move their point quickly around attempted parries.
Footwork: The “cardio” component. This is the most physically demanding of the skills, is the one which permits a fencer to move into appropriate positions and distances and allow him to effectively utilize foil work to touch the opponent's target area and allow him to get away from an opponent's attack.
Tactics: The “mental” component. This is often the hardest to learn. Fencers will spend most of their competitive careers focused on learning and executing the nuances of fencing strategy and tactics. Tactics consist of the plans and counter plans utilized by fencers to coordinate use of foil work and footwork against the fencing style of opponents.