Day 19 − 3rd Sunday in Lent - St Lawrence Outside the Walls

The Basilica of St Lawrence Outside the Walls

So here we are, pilgrims, at St Lawrence Outside the Walls.  Looks a little like St Vitalis, doesn't it? Just not half buried underground. 

I would like to tell you a story about this church, a story from not that long ago. You see, the facade of this church had to be completely rebuilt after Allied bombing in World War II.  The San Lorenzo district was bombed on July 19, 1943 by Allied planes that were trying to disrupt railway communication in Rome.  It was the most devastating bombing in Rome during World War II, and San Lorenzo was the only church in Rome that suffered any serious damage.  It took 5 years to rebuild the church, and it did not reopen until 1948.  On July 19, 2013, the anniversary of that fateful day, Pope Francis travelled to this papal basilica, and recalled the catastrophe.  

Pope Pius XII Comforting His Flock After the Bombing 7/12/1943

“The memory of the bombing of that dramatic day resonates once again in each of the words of Pope Pius XII, 'nothing is lost with peace, everything can be lost with war,'” Pope Francis quoted.  He continued by recalling Pope Pius' actions on that day: "Pope Pius XII did not hesitate to run, immediately and without escort, among the still smoking ruins of the District of San Lorenzo, in order to help and console the frightened.  Even at that time, he showed himself to be a caring pastor who is in the midst of his flock, especially in times of trial, ready to share in the sufferings of his people.” He continued by noting that, "among others, I wish to make mention of Monsignor Giovanni Battista Montini, the future Pope Paul VI, then Deputy Secretary of State, who accompanied Pius XII in the visit to the barrio just devastated by bombs.”  

Although it was a devastating moment in Church History, yet it is a beautiful memory of a Pope and a future Pope, together, 2 bishops of Rome, serving the people of their flock very little differently than those great martyr bishops of the first few Christian centuries, who often scurried among their flock, giving comfort, teaching the people, praying with them — and for this they often paid with their lives.  Remember Deacon Lawrence's mentor, Pope Sixtus II?  (Oh, by the way, we will be visiting Pope Sixtus himself next week at his station.)

Above:  The facade of St Lawrence-Outside-the-Walls prior to the bombing.  

Interior of the basilica prior to the bombing in 1943

In the Nave of St Lawrence-Outside-the-Walls today

Notice the opulent floor pattern that draws the pilgrim forward to the confessio.

After Deacon Lawrence was martyred, St Cyriaca (remember her from Day 12 at Santa Maria in Domnica?) recovered his remains, brought them to her family land, and erected a simple tomb. By Constantine's day, there were huge numbers of pilgrims, so Constantine had a small oratory built, with a large, covered cemetery around the tomb, so that people could be buried near one of Rome's favorite saints.  By the sixth century, because of damp conditions in the covered cemetery, Pope Pelagius built a new church flanking Constantine's building, but facing the opposite way.  Pope Pelagius, also at that time, brought the relics of St Stephen, the first Christian martyr, to this basilica and placed them in the same sarcophagus with St Lawrence.

In the ancient days, the catechumens were brought here, to the confessio, before the relics of St Stephen and St Lawrence, on this 3rd Sunday of Lent.  In the presence of these holy martyrs, it was the day to decide whether they were for the Lord, or against him.  If for Him, then with Stephen and Lawrence as witnesses, it was the day to formally renounce "all uncleanness, fornication, covetousness, obscenity, gossip, and idle talk", because "no fornicator, or unclean, or covetous person can inherit the kingdom of Jesus Christ."  That must have been an AWESOME experience! ! ! ! !  

During this pilgrimage, designed to nurture the ancient catechumens into the Faith, most of these station churches were the site of particular activities, reserved each year for the particular station church of that day.  At this church, it was the place to learn that at their baptism they would be required to "renounce Satan and all his pomps."  Now that is an old-fashioned word!  What does it mean, "pomps"?  Today, In the rite of baptism, the catechumen is asked, "Do you renounce Satan and all his works and empty promises?" In early times,"empty Promises" were called "pomps," which we would call "seductions" (L. seductiones) today.

The High Altar and the Confessio below, containing the Relics of St Lawrence and St Stephen.

In the Confessio, under the high altar.

Probably the most amazing thing about this church is that in 1220, Pope Honorius III razed the apse of the church and added a whole new basilica, so the old church became the chancel of the new church. The two buildings did not quite fit together exactly, so that there is slight asymmetry, however, the magnificent decoration so distracts the eye, that it is not noticed.  (Much like the slight asymmetry of San Giorgio in Velabro, where one only notices the aymmetry by studying the ceiling pattern.)  So St Lawrence Outside the Walls is really 2 churches stuck together, end to end!

Altar of the Confessio with the tomb of St Stephen and St Lawrence in the back

The elevated area where we are now standing, behind the high altar, and surrounding the high altar, is the old church.  The lower section, which became the nave, is the medieval church. Above, on the triumphal arch, stand Christ in the center, with Sts. Peter, Paul, Lawrence, Stephen, and Hippolytus, with St Lawrence presenting Pope Pelagius to the Lord.  You might want to scroll up a few frames and compare the mosaics on this triumphal arch (the ancient church) with the mosaics on the reverse in the nave of the present basilica (medieval church).

Cosmatesque papal throne - after all, St Lawrence Outside the Walls is a papal basilica!

All right, I've kept you waiting long enough!  Back to St Lawrence!  As we said before, Emperor Valerian was not amused by Lawrence bringing a crowd of the hungry, the blind, and the lame into the royal presence, and he was especially not amused at being told that they were the "treasure" of the Church.  So Deacon Lawrence had disposed of the Church's wealth had he?  For this he would pay dearly!

Valerian had his men prepare a gridiron with hot coals beneath it.  Lawrence was then bound and placed on the grill!  

Tradition tells us that after he had roasted for awhile, his keen sense of humor not failing him at the last, he called out to his executioners, "Turn me over! I'm done on this side!"  They flipped him over, whereupon, he promptly died. 

Martyrdom of St Lawrence by Pellegrino Tibaldi   1592

Below in the frame is the stone table top where St Lawrence's body was laid after his martyrdom, until they could prepare his burial site.  It hangs on the wall in the crypt, behind the confessio where the bodies of St Lawrence and St Stephen are entombed, and retains the stains of his blood and other body fluids.

Dear Saint Lawrence and St Stephen, come walk with us awhile.  Help us keep our perspective, you who gave your all, in life and in death.  Intercede for us, that we may be faithful and determined in our commitment to Our Lord!

Of interest:

Blessed Pope Pius IX is buried at this basilica.  He is notable for being the longest reigning Pope.  He is the Pope who called the First Vatican Council in the mid 1800's.  And he was the Pope who exercised his papal authority to declare the dogma of the Immaculate Conception.

Tomb of Blessed Pius IX - he has a silver face mask

There is another pope buried in this Basilica, who was the bishop of Rome from 461 to 468.  You might say that his burial here is really funny!  

That is because his name was Pope Hilarius!  

Groan . . . . .  He seems to have gone mainly by his nickname Hilary!

Below:  Entrance to the Convent

Above and below:  Cloister of the convent 

The Entrance Portico to the Basilica