The Basilica of St. Stephen-in-the-Round on the Celian Hill is an ancient titular church in Rome, commonly called Santo Stefano Rotondo. It is the National church of Hungary in Rome, dedicated to Saint Stephen the protomartyr, and Saint Stephen of Hungary. For a time, the relics of St Stephen were preserved in this church until they were translated to St Lawrence Outside-the-Walls.
Whereas many of the churches that we have visited have lost their ancient characteristics, in favor of later architectural styles when they were reconstructed or remodeled, San Stefano Rotondo retains its ancient ambience. From the moment one steps through the unassuming and rather quaint gateway with its understated sign, an atmosphere of antiquity is undeniable.
At least since the time of Constantine, Christians have worshipped here. The present church is very old, 6th century, but excavations underneath reveal an even earlier church.
The current church was originally commissioned by Pope Leo I (440-461), but was not consecrated until after his death. Originally, the church had a central circular space, surrounded by three concentric ambulatories defined by 22 Ionic columns. Above the central circular space was a tambour, a a circular wall rising from the inner ambulatory supporting a dome, like a huge drum. It was 22 meters high and 22 meters wide, with 22 windows to provide light for the interior. Four side chapels extended from the central space, through the ambulatories, to form a Greek cross.
The church was consecrated by Pope Simplicius between 468 and 483, and dedicated to the proto-martyr Saint Stephen, whose body had been discovered a few decades before in the Holy Land, and brought to Rome. In Jerusalem, Constantine had commissioned a circular plan for the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and inspired by this design, Santo Stefano became the first Roman church to use this circular plan, probably financed by the wealthy Valerius family, whose estates covered large parts of the Caelian Hill.
You can see from these diagrams, that although the inside of the church is circular, the exterior has a cruciform plan.
The transepts serve as chapels.
In the 6th century, the popes embellished the church with mosaics and colored marble. It was restored in the 12th century by Pope Innocent II, who removed the outer ambulatory, and three of the four side chapels, as well as adding three transversal arches to support the dome, walling up 14 of the windows in the drum.
The next century was not kind to the basilica. Barbarian invasions took their toll, as did a long period of neglect. In the 6th century it was restored and the relics of the martyrs Ss Primus and Felician were translated here. Below is the chapel of Sts. Primo e Feliciano with some rare and interesting mosaics from the 7th century. The chapel was built by Pope Theodore I who had the relics of the martyrs Primus and Felician brought here and buried them (together with the remains of his father) in this chapel.
There are scenes of the martyrdom of St Primo below among the frescoes
Over time, the church again fell into disrepair, requiring a major renovation in the 12th century, and yet another in the 15th century, which actually saved the whole place from collapse, for though the marble columns, marble covered walls and cosmatesque works-of-art in the church remained intact, the roof had already collapsed. Amazingly, despite all these renovations, the basilica maintains its ancient plan and much of its original stone.
This massive structure which stands on the floor, and looks like a model of a church, is the tabernacle, or Sakramentshaus.
The church is an architectural chronology of martyrdom; the walls are decorated with a cycle of thirty-four large fresco images of martyrdom, including those of Niccolò Circignani and Antonio Tempesta , commissioned by Pope Gregory XIII in the 16th century. These are not scenes for the faint-of-heart; they reveal the brutal reality of martyrdom, beginning with the death of Our Lord and the martyrdom of Stephen, followed by those under various Roman emperors.
On his visit in the 19th century, Charles Dickens wrote “Such a panorama of horror and butchery no man could imagine in his sleep… Grey-bearded men being boiled, fried, grilled, crimped, singed, eaten by wild beasts, worried by dogs, buried alive, torn asunder by horses, chopped up small with hatchets: women having their breasts torn with iron pinchers, their tongues cut out, their ears screwed off, their jaws broken, their bodies stretched upon the rack, or skinned upon the stake, or crackled up and melted in the fire: these are among the mildest subjects.”
We admire the courage of martyrs and tend to romanticize their deaths, but in addition to the physical torment, torture, and death, the spiritual experience of abandonment is the most devastating reality of all. Even Jesus experienced some sense of abandonment on the Cross. Of course we should honour the martyrs, but one of the best ways to honor them is to contemplate what a hard thing martyrdom is. This is where the Church of Santo Stefano Rotondo is of great benefit to us.
Martyrdom is ultimately an act of renunciation. The martyr is alone, if not physically, at least experientially — without hope of rescue, without comfort, without the ability to see "how it all worked out." He/she does not know whether their death "will do any good." They must abandon themselves into the hands of God, through the hands of their enemies, who are intent on bringing their lives to an ignominious and painful end. Only by the grace of God can they be successful in their final witness, but it takes courage to wait for this grace, which, in their agony, seems will never come. They are not without fear, doubt, anxiety. They are not without feelings — they are cold, hungry, thirsty, in pain.
Throughout the record of His Passion in the Scriptures, we are repeatedly informed of the details of the sufferings Jesus is experiencing. In this way we are able to identify with His martyrdom, and even enter vicariously into that suffering. It is one thing to have a hot iron fall on my hand and toss it away from me, hastening to run cold water over the burn. It is an entirely different thing to embrace the flame that will end my life, with only faith to assure me that this is a victory and not a defeat. When we contemplate the sufferings of our persecuted brothers and sisters today, we realize that Jesus continues to suffer in His Body, the Church, and will do so until the end of this Creation. We must pray continuously that when those among us are required to make the ultimate sacrifice for Christ, that we will have the courage and strength we need to embrace our own Passion with serenity and trust and love.
In 1454, Pope Nicholas V gave the ruined church to the Hungarian religious order, the Pauline Fathers, and as a result, Santo Stefano Rotondo later became the church of the Hungarians in Rome. In 1579, Hungarian Jesuits followed the Pauline Fathers, and eventually, the German and Hungarian College was established, although very few Hungarian students were able to travel to Rome in those days from the Turkish-occupied Kingdom of Hungary. In the 18th century, Pope Pius VI had a Hungarian chapel built in San Stefano Rotondo, and dedicated it to King Stephen I of Hungary, the canonized first king of the Magyars.
Hungarian experts, along with their German and Italian colleagues, have been active in the ongoing restoration and archeological exploration of the church during the past century. Excavations in the 70’s revealed that the present church was built over an earlier church erected under Constantine I in the first half of the 4th century.
St Stephen, the great proto-martyr, died in the first wave of persecution that the fledgling Church experienced in Jerusalem under the Jewish priesthood.
“Now in those days, when the number of the disciples was multiplying, there arose a complaint against the Hebrews by the Hellenists, because their widows were neglected in the daily distribution.
So they chose from among them “seven men of good reputation” and appointed them deacons to serve the Church. (Acts 6: 1-7)
There was considerable tension between the Hebrews and the Hellenists in Jewish society, and this carried over into the Jerusalem Church. The apostles were all Hebrews. When the deacons were chosen, they were all Greek (Hellenists) It would eventually be the Hellenists who would be a bridge to the Gentiles.
Hellenists – Jews who had accepted and practiced Greek ways
1) Sadducees
2) Jews of the Diaspora, spread throughout the Empire (many no longer spoke Hebrew)
Hellenistic Christians - converted Jews who had Hellenistic (Greek) leanings
1) Many had been a part of the Jewish Diaspora.
2) The target of most of the earliest persecution by the Jews.
Anti-Hellenistic Jews - tended to largely be Pharisees
1) despised the Hellenistic tendencies within 1st century Judaism
2) their greatest disdain was directed against Hellenistic Christians
Hebrews - Jews (and later Christians) who were of Israeli origins
Resisted and despised the Hellenizing tendencies of the culture.
"And Stephen, full of faith & power, did great wonders & signs among the people. Then there arose some...disputing with Stephen . . .and they secretly induced men to say, “ We have heard him speak blasphemous words...” and set up false witnesses… Then the high priest asked Stephen, “Are these things so?” Stephen preached to them about God’s covenant relationship to his people from the beginning, Abraham, Joseph, Moses, and all the rest, “and when he was finished...they cast him out of the city and stoned him...and Paul consented to his death. Acts 7: 51 – 8:3.
St Stephen is not buried at this church. Do you remember where he is buried? In the crypt with St Lawrence at St Lawrence Outside the Walls.
Stephen Was dragged Out of the City Through This Gate to the Place of His Martyrdom
The collect church for today is Santi Giovanni e Paolo, our old friends from Day 3 of the pilgrimage.
Tomorrow there is no collect church, but traditionally the Pope distributed alms at San Pietro in Vaticano. All who desired could assist him.
We will then meet at our next station: San Giovanni a Porta Latina.