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In this ancient station, the pilgrim experiences the sheer density of the history that has shaped our beloved Church. In this Church you will descend 3 times, into deeper levels levels of history. Prepare yourselves, pilgrims. St. Clement is ready to take us all the way back to the 1st century.
Antiquity is quite palpable here as one descends through the three levels to the 1st century, where we can follow our friend Clement as he goes about shepherding, teaching, and loving his little flock. Very few details are known about the life of St Clement who served as Bishop of Rome from AD 92-101, but according to the oldest list of the bishops of Rome, as well as ancient authors such as St Irenaeus, he was the third successor to St Peter in Rome. He is mentioned in the Roman Canon of the Mass as Clemens.
Basilica of San Clemente - From the Atrium
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ARoma_San_Clemente_BW_1.JPGBasilica of San Clemente - From the Atrium
Clement wrote an Epistle to the Corinthians around AD 96, citing his authority as Bishop of Rome, to deal with disturbances in the Church at Corinth. The Corinthians seem not to have changed much from St Paul's day, because in the letter, Clement addresses some of the same types of issues in Corinth that had previously concerned St Paul in the New Testament. The letter is one of the earliest witnesses to the authority of the Church of Rome, and was so highly regarded that it was still being read publicly at Corinth alongside the Scriptures at least as late as the 2nd century. It was even considered for possible inclusion in the New Testament.
St Clement is revered as a martyr. There are 4th century accounts which tell of his exile to the Crimea during the reign of the emperor Trajan (98-117 AD), where he was forced to labor in the mines. His evangelistic efforts while in the mines exasperated the Romans, until finally they bound an anchor around his neck, and threw him into the Black Sea. Sometime later, when the water receded, a tomb built by angels was revealed. His body was recovered and returned to Rome. Today the relics of St Clement lie beneath the high altar of the basilica and on the Feast of St Clement (November 23), they are exposed for veneration and carried in solemn procession through the streets. Because of the method of his martyrdom, he is usually depicted in art with an anchor.
Pilgrimage
Pilgrimage
Approaching San Clemente from the east. The wall in the front encloses the atrium. You can see the bell tower and the basilica over the wall in the background. Compare to the older drawing below
Approaching San Clemente from the east. The wall in the front encloses the atrium. You can see the bell tower and the basilica over the wall in the background. Compare to the older drawing below
Portico
By Sailko - Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=869928MarkusMark - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10629913
By Giuseppe Vasi - Rome Art Lover, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=72639677
In the photo and the drawing above on the right, see the little portico in the front wall of the atrium? Below on the right, is a close-up of how it looks today. See how the entrance is now lower than the present street level? This was originally the entrance to the atrium and front door of the church.
Entrance to the atrium from the street
By user:Lalupa - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=468097The photo on the left is what pilgrims would have seen as they prepared to enter the church in Medieval times. See the fountain in the middle of the atrium? Today, a side entrance is used to enter the church instead. You can see it in the wall of the nave on the left in the drawing above.
Below: Looking back from the portico of the Church to the gate we just entered
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3AMonti_-_san_Clemente_0511-15_chiostro.JPG Below: Looking back from the portico of the Church to the gate we just entered
Below: Facade of San Clemente from the atrium
Labicanense, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia CommonsBelow: Facade of San Clemente from the atrium
Facade of the church from the atrium
By MarkusMark - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10629926Facade of the church from the atrium
The current basilica was built between 1099 and 1120, by Cardinal Anastasius, who was its titular cardinal. The previous basilica was once thought to have been destroyed in the Norman sack of Rome in 1084, but excavation has not shown that to be the case. It is quite possible that lower basilica was simply filled in to provide a foundation for a new, larger basilica.
Front door of the Basilica from across the atrium
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3AMonti_-_san_Clemente_0511-15_chiostro.JPG Front door of the Basilica from across the atrium
Left: Floor plan of San Clemente
By Anonymous [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ASan_Clemente_Rome_plan.jpgLeft: Floor plan of San Clemente
We can see from the floor plan on the left, that this a rather unique church in comparison to the ones we have been exploring. Overall, it is a basilica style with a central nave and 2 side aisles. The area marked H is the apse, in a typical position behind the high altar. What is unique is the position of the choir (marked E), which sits in the middle of the nave, and separates the area for the congregation from the high altar. B labels the atrium/cloister at the entrance of the church, which is similar to the plan for Old St Peter's in the Vatican.
Irish Dominicans have been the caretakers of San Clemente since 1667, when England outlawed the Irish Catholic Church and expelled its entire clergy from the country. Pope Urban VIII gave them refuge here at San Clemente, where even today, they run a residence for priests studying and teaching in Rome. It was the Dominican Fathers here who conducted the excavations in the 1950s in collaboration with Italian archaeology students.
The photos below are taken from the nave, looking down the center of the choir to the high altar and the apse. You can see the raised ambo at the side of the choir. Don't miss the coffered ceiling and the frescoes on the walls. Also notice that on the front center of the baldacchino, there is an anchor, recalling the martyrdom of St Clement. The Cosmatesque floor is lovely as it forms a path through the center of the choir.
Below: Looking down on the Choir and Apse
https://www.basilicasanclemente.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Basilica-Superiore-pavimento.jpgBelow: Looking down on the Choir and Apse
By Ninfamania - Own work, CC BY 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=142346171
San Clemente - Interior
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3AInterior_of_San_Clemente%2C_Rome.JPG By Sixtus (Own work) [GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC-BY-SA-3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/)], via Wikimedia CommonsSan Clemente - Interior
Painting of the Interior of the Basilica, by Lourens Alma Tadema 1863
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3AAlma_Tadema_Chiesa_San_Clemente.jpgLawrence Alma-Tadema [Public domain], via Wikimedia CommonsPainting of the Interior of the Basilica, by Lourens Alma Tadema 1863
View through the choir to the apse
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ARom%2C_Basilika_San_Clemente%2C_Innenraum_1.jpgView through the choir to the apse
Closer views of the apse mosaic
Closer views of the apse mosaic
Apse mosaic - c.1200, shows a common form of Byzantine arabesque motif of scrolled acanthus tendrils
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ARom%2C_Basilika_San_Clemente%2C_Apsis_1.jpgBy Dnalor 01 (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia CommonsApse mosaic - c.1200, shows a common form of Byzantine arabesque motif of scrolled acanthus tendrils
Notice that there are 12 sheep adoring the Lamb of God in the center. The sheep represent the 12 apostles. Notice below, that there are also 12 doves depicted on the Cross, however, the one at the bottom is partially covered by the living greenery. This also represents the 12 apostles, all of whom accepted their "crosses"(martyrdom) like their Lord, (except of course, Judas who imposed his own death by suicide), with John at the bottom "shielded" from death (martyrdom) by Life (Christ), so that he might write further of the life of the Church in the apostolic days.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ARoma_San_ Clemente_Abside_Mosaico_Dettaglio4.JPG By Rita1234 (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0(http://creativecommons.org /licenses/by-sa/3.0) or GFDL(http://www.gnu.org/copy left/fdl.html)], via Wikimedia Commons
See the lush greenery greenery growing at the foot of the cross? This signifies that the cross is the Tree of Life. When Adam and Eve, in the Garden of Eden, ate of the fruit of the Tree of the Knowledge of Good and Evil, God sent them from the Garden "lest they also eat of the Tree of Life and live forever in their sins."
Now Jesus reveals the true Tree of Life, the Cross, and He is the fruit of that Tree. We eat of this precious fruit whenever we receive the Eucharist. (Just as we who live after the earthly life of Christ are forbidden to partake of the Sacrament in mortal sin, so Adam and Eve were protected from partaking unworthily of the fruit of the Tree of Life by the Cherubim with a flaming sword..This is why, like Adam and Eve, we must not partake of the Sacrament unworthlily, although no visible flaming sword prevents us.)
Revelation 2:8 He that hath an ear, let him hear what the Spirit saith unto the churches; To him that overcometh will I give to eat of the Tree of Life, which is in the midst of the paradise of God.
Above the Cross we can see the Father's hand gripping and stabilizing the Cross. Mary and John stand at the foot of the Cross in their traditional positions. Prophets and apostles flank the apse and also sit among the curling tendrils of the vines.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ARoma_San_Clemente_Abside_Mosaico_Dettaglio5.JPGBy Rita1234 (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0) or GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html)], via Wikimedia Commons
Flowing from the base of the Cross is water forming a stream from which everything on the Earth can drink - an artistic representation of Jesus' description of Himself as the "Living Water."
Apse frescoes
By Sailko - Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=869932Apse frescoes
Apse Frescoes
By Rita1234 - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8712280Apse Frescoes
Detail of the Apse Mosaics
Detail of the Apse Mosaics
By Rita1234 - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https:// commons.wikimedia.org/ w/index.php?curid=8712306
St John and Mother Mary at the Foot of the Cross
By Rita1234 - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8712332St John and Mother Mary at the Foot of the Cross
The Apsidal Mosaic is literally filled with symbolism:
The Apsidal Mosaic is literally filled with symbolism:
The Chi-Rho and Alpha/Omega Symbols for Jesus Christ
By Rita1234 - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8712336The Chi-Rho and Alpha/Omega Symbols for Jesus Christ
Behold, the Lamb of God
By Rita1234 - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8712345Behold, the Lamb of God
The Altar
The Altar
Above: High Altar with Ciborium above - notice the anchor on the front top of the ciborium
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvj07tJFSRg_NJzWeOoBfO8v-8B0PIqKJaKO2DVznOTRq25r4Nh2RpapG1ANIGeHq1OyvcyCzyqi3Q8bbs1ohR38RytdAgWKpyDZH42jaH7oquvWF4MkYfR7wMg2Lama4aJBHwputZATU3/s640/altar.pngAbove: High Altar with Ciborium above - notice the anchor on the front top of the ciborium
Above: Looking out from the High Altar into the Nave
https://www.basilicasanclemente.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/3-BasilicaSanClemente..jpgAbove: Looking out from the High Altar into the Nave
San Clemente - Ceiling
San Clemente - Ceiling
The Triumph of St Clement
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ARoma_San_Clemente_BW_2.JPGBy Berthold Werner (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia CommonsThe Triumph of St Clement
Below are 2 enlargements showing details of angels bearing the anchor and of St Clemens' face.
https://www.basilicasanclemente.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Basilica-Superiore-soffitto-2.jpg
The Chapel of St Catherine of Alexandria
The Chapel of St Catherine of Alexandria
Now we come to the St Catherine Chapel, commissioned by Cardinal Castiglioni who was the titular cardinal of San Clemente from 1411-1431. The frescos in the chapel are from the dawn of the Renaissance, painted by Masolino da Panicale in association with Massacio from 1428 to 1432. The scene on the entrance arch is the Annunciation, the center altar wall is of the Crucifixion. The scenes from St. Catherine’s legend cover the left wall, and the right wall depicts scenes from the life of St. Ambrose.
Above: Saint Catherine Chapel - Annunciation and Crucifixion
By Sailko - Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=870073Above: Saint Catherine Chapel - Annunciation and Crucifixion
Above: St Catherine Chapel - Annunciation - Entrance Arch
By Rita1234 - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8712358Above: St Catherine Chapel - Annunciation - Entrance Arch
Above: St Catherine Chapel - The Crucifixion - altar wall
By Sailko - Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=869940Above: St Catherine Chapel - The Crucifixion - altar wall
Above and below: St Catherine Chapel - Life of St. Catherine of Alexandria - left wall
By Sailko - Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=869935Above and below: St Catherine Chapel - Life of St. Catherine of Alexandria - left wall
The Chapel of St Cyril
The Chapel of St Cyril
St Cyril and his brother St Methodius are patron saints of Europe (along with St Benedict), declared by Pope John Paul II, and have long been considered equal-to-apostles by the Eastern Church. They were fellow theologians and missionaries, instumental in bringing much of the population of Eastern Europe into the fold of Christendom.
In 862, Prince Rastislav of Great Moravia made a request to Emperor Michael III and Photius, the Patriarch of Constantinople, for missionaries to evangelize his Slavic subjects. His motive was probably more political than religious, since he was experiencing conflict with Western European rulers, but his populace had already rejected paganism and desired to know more about the Christian Faith. The Emperor sent Cyril, with his brother Methodius in answer to the request.
In 863, in order to fulfill the mission, the brothers developed the Glagolitic alphabet, and began translating the Gospels and essential liturgical books into what is now known as Old Church Slavonic. The descendant Cyrillic alphabet is still used by many languages, and Old Church Slavonic is still the liturgical language of a number of Eastern Orthodox and Eastern Catholic Churches.
When Cyril and Methodius entered the missionary field they brought with them the relics of Pope St Clement, who had been martyred by having an anchor tied to his neck and thrown in the Black Sea. Eventually the brothers ended up in Rome as the result of their missionary endeavors, where they were warmly welcomed, particularly because of the relics. There is a great deal more to their story, but at least now you know how St Clement's relics came back to Rome, and you can follow up with Sts. Cyril and Methodius on your own.
Painted by Zahari Zograf (Захарий Христович Димитров) - http://www.pravoslavieto.com/art/shkoli/samokovska/1810-1853_Zaharij_Zograf.htm, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=4140266
In the lower Basilica are further treasures regarding Cyril and the return of Clement's relics.
Chapel of St Cyril
https://www.basilicasanclemente.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Basilica-Superiore-Cappela-S-Cirillo.jpgChapel of St Cyril
Chapel of St Cyril
https://www.basilicasanclemente.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/4-BasilicaSanClemente..jpgChapel of St Cyril
Chapel of St. Cyril - Here Pope St Clement offers the enthroned Christ a symbolic representation of this church while Sts. Cyril and Methodius look on.
https://www.basilicasanclemente.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/10-BasilicaSanClemente..jpgChapel of St. Cyril - Here Pope St Clement offers the enthroned Christ a symbolic representation of this church while Sts. Cyril and Methodius look on.
The Chapel of St Dominic
The Chapel of St Dominic
The Excavations
The Excavations
Below, you can see a cutaway of the 3 levels of the basilica.
Below, you can see a cutaway of the 3 levels of the basilica.
It takes a bit of study to fully understand what you are seeing, but you can refer back here as you read the descriptions below.
It takes a bit of study to fully understand what you are seeing, but you can refer back here as you read the descriptions below.
The First Basilica
The First Basilica
Descending the stairs, we come to the earlier, 4th century basilica. St Jerome wrote of this church in 392, as being dedicated to Pope St. Clement. The lower level of earlier buildings were filled in with dirt and rubble to form the foundation of this first basilica. The second floors were remodeled, and an apse was built. Many items were recycled for use in the present Basilica, such as the Altar and ciborium over it, many of the columns, the choir, and the raised ambo.
Perhaps most important in this lower basilica is this fresco below, telling the story of Sts, Cyril and Methodius bringing the body of St Clement home from the Crimea to Rome.
Perhaps most important in this lower basilica is this fresco below, telling the story of Sts, Cyril and Methodius bringing the body of St Clement home from the Crimea to Rome.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ASan_clemente_fresco.jpg By anonymous artist (Unknown) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
The next fresco is of St Alexios of Rome, although his legend is of Greek origin. He is perhaps one of those saints who in their day were known as "holy fools." Alexis was the only son of a wealthy Roman senator who was a Christian. Alexius fled his arranged marriage to follow a religious vocation as a hermit, living as a beggar, near Edessa in Syria, on alms. Even his own household slaves, who had been sent to look for him, did not recognize him. Eventually, a vision of the Blessed Virgin Mary pointed him out as a "Man of God." He fled the resulting notoriety, and returned to Rome, so changed that his parents did not recognize him. However, as good Christians, they took him in and sheltered him for seventeen years. He was content with a dark little cubbyhole room under the staircase in the home where he grew up, praying and teaching catechism to children. After his death, his family found writings on his body which told them who he was and how he had lived his life of penance from the day of his wedding, for the love of God.
Lower basilica fresco - St. Alexius of Rome
Lower basilica fresco - St. Alexius of Rome
Lower basilica - fresco depicting Christ descending to the dead on Holy Saturday
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3ASan_Clemente_lower_Basilica.jpg By Ulrich Mayring (photo taken by Ulrich Mayring) [GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC-BY-SA-3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/)], via Wikimedia CommonsLower basilica - fresco depicting Christ descending to the dead on Holy Saturday
Madonna and Child (?) or maybe Theodora (?)
Unknown artist of the 6th century http://www.basilicasanclemente.com/tour/IV/madonnabimbo.htm, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=5699196Madonna and Child (?) or maybe Theodora (?)
Miracle of St Clement in the Sea
https://commons.wikimedia.org /wiki/File%3AMiracle_of_St_ Clement_in_the_sea.jpgMiracle of St Clement in the Sea
But wait, there's even more! From the lower basilica, one can descend even further in time, down into the ancient domus (house), perhaps originally built during the days of the Roman Republic and certainly standing in the 1st-3rd centuries. There was a two or more story house, some sort of industrial building, and a narrow alley. At least some of this space is thought to have been used by early, secret Christian worshippers. Did Clement live here? Was there a house church in this ancient place? Certainly the age of the place is right. And certainly, for some reason, it seemed important to the ancient Christians to build and rebuild churches dedicated to Clement on this site. We think of Clement as Bishop of Rome and Pope in the ancient church of the 1st century, yet his little flock of Christian souls may have only been a few hundred at most, and quite likely fewer. This could certainly have been the place.
It is a little difficult to decipher the ruins, because in the courtyard of the domus, in the 2nd century, the followers of the cult of Mithras built a Mithraeum, the ceremonial room of a Mithraic temple. Had the Christians moved out? Was there so much damage in Nero's fire of Rome that they could no longer use this place? There are no answers . . . . . And yet the questions draw us into their world. Rome was little different in the 1st through the 3rd centuries for Christians then, than has been the situation in Iraq or Syria in the 21st century, with Christian captives frequently taken by ISIS terrorists, and beheadings not uncommon for those who have committed no crime other than to be called by the name of their Lord — Jesus the Christ.
Mithraeum in the basement - 2nd century built in the middle of the earlier 1st century domus where St Clemens is thought to have had his home.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3AMithraeum_San_Clemente_Rom.JPGBy Ice Boy Tell (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia CommonsMithraeum in the basement - 2nd century built in the middle of the earlier 1st century domus where St Clemens is thought to have had his home.
Room in the roman building of 1st century called "horreum" - Was this where the Christians met in Clement's day?
By Valerio b. cosentino - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=34923907Room in the roman building of 1st century called "horreum" - Was this where the Christians met in Clement's day?
If you sit here in this room, with your back against the wall, it doesn't take much to let your imagination wander back to ancient times. Can you hear the sound of running water? There is a little spring here that would have provided water to the early worshipers, and to the house of Pope Clement. Listen closely. What is that sound in the distance - is it the booted foot-falls of soldiers looking for worshippers of the forbidden Christian religion? Here in this room we are gathered with ancient Christians. We can hear their prayers, feel their fear of discovery, sense their kinship with us, and embrace our place with them in the mystical Body of Christ.
Virtual Tours
Virtual Tours
Below, just exit out of the cookies business in Italian, and then you will be able to scroll down to the virtual tours of all levels of San Clemente. Practice with it if you want to really experience all the levels of the basilica. Clicking on various spots will open up the nooks and crannies. There is also access to use a VR headset if you have one.
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3APalatine_view_of_temple_of_romulus.jpg By Anthony M. from Rome, Italy (Flickr) [CC BY 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons
The collect church for today is Sts Cosmas and Damian on the Via Sacra in the Roman Forum, built in the ruins of the Temple of Romulus in the Forum.
Tomorrow we will travel back to the Aventine Hill, the time to the Basilica of Santa Balbina, a church consecrated by St Gregory the Great while he was Pope.
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