Day 16 - Thursday of the 2nd Week in Lent - Santa Maria in Trastevere

Panorama of the piazza in front of Santa Maria in Trastevere - the church is at the far left.

Above:  Engraving of the  Church as it appeared in the 17th century -  it doesn't look very different today!

Below:  Santa Maria in Trastevere - facade

Upper facade featuring the splendid mosaic

Mosaic on the facade of Santa Maria in Trastevere

Detail of the Facade Mosaic

Come inside, dear Pilgrim - your Mother Mary waits for you here . . . . .

In the Nave - Santa Maria in Trastevere

The Church was built by Pope Innocent II (1130-1143) in the 12th century, and replaced an earlier church from the 4th century.  The main apse mosaics were completed at that time.  Toward the end of the 13th century, 6 additional mosaics by Pietro Cavallini were added, illustrating the Life of the Virgin.  The gilded and coffered wood ceiling was designed by Domenichino, who also painted the Assumption of the Virgin in the center octagonal cove.  The 22 granite columns with Ionic/Corinthian capitals came from the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla.

Ceiling of the nave - detail of The Assumption by Domenichino 

Interior - Santa Maria in Trastevere

In this lovely Marian church, with its magnificent apsidal mosaic, it should not surprise us that there are subtle references to the passages above, implanted into the very walls of this church, which is appointed for Thursday the 2nd week of Lent.  How gently, yet how persistently, does our Mother Mary point us to her son!

In the photo below we can see this splendid mosaic, and contemplate what Mary desires us to understand at this station.  Docility is our lesson for today — being teachable, accepting the tasks we are given, without regard to the potential consequences — yet realizing that of ourselves, we are unable to do so.

Apse and High Altar framed by the Triumphal Arch 

On either side of the upper triumphal arch, which frames the apse of the church, we see the figures of 2 prophets.  The one on the right is Jeremiah, proclaiming the very words we have just read above.   

The Prophet Isaiah - "Behold a Virgin shall conceive and bear a son . . . "

The Prophet Jeremiah

Details of the Triumphal Arch 

Let's zoom in on the photo and explore the apse a little more closely.  

Below:  Apse and triumphal arch of the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, Rome

Contemplate here, the message our dear Mother desires to pass on to us from her Son.  If you recall the apsidal mosaic in yesterday's station at Santa Cecilia, Christ was standing in the center of the mosaic.  Here, Our Lord is seated on His throne, and who sits beside him?  Our Blessed Mother.  Seated there beside her Son, she appears as the regal spouse of Christ.  Thus she represents not only herself as Mother of God, but also the Church as Bride.  Recalling Esther's fervent plea, Mary reminds us that she is present at the throne, and ever intercedes for us with her Son.  Here is the sustenance that Esther so passionately sought.  Not deliverance from the task she had been given, but rather, the support she needs while contemplating the possibility of martyrdom.  Can this support be useful to us in our tasks and trials? Does she stand beside us in our often bungling attempts at self-sacrifice?

Detail of the apsidal mosaic - Our Lord and Our Lady    

Detail of the Apsidal Mosaic - Mary, Queen of Heaven

Apsidal mosaic 

Speaking of bungling attempts, see who stands at the left hand of Our Lord?  Yes, of course! we exclaim, it is Peter!  Dear Peter, ever the leader of the little band of disciples, going about ancient Israel with Jesus, with his foot forever in his mouth it seemed, bungling and stumbling, and always getting it wrong, that is, whenever he depended on his own wisdom.  Only when he speaks with the authority and revelation given him by the Lord, does he wax eloquent:  "You are the Christ, the Son of the Living God!"  

He is dear to us, this ancient friend, because in our foolishness, we know that we also fumble and bungle miserably.  Below Peter's feet in the mosaic, parade another line of sheep, so similar to those in San Clemente and St Cecilia. Today this line-up of lambs reminds us of the opportunity Jesus gave Peter at the end of the Gospel of John, to undo a bit of his bungling.  Three times Peter had denied Jesus during his trial.  After the Resurrection, Jesus asks Peter 3 times, "Do you love me?" Three times Peter has the chance to affirm his love for the Lord; three times the Lord responds with "Feed my sheep."

Detail of the Apsidal Mosaic, on Mary's right are Pope Innocent II, Deacon Lawrence, and Pope Calixtus  

Detail of the Apsidal Mosaic - On Our Lord's left are St Peter, Pope Cornelius, Pope Julius I, and the early Christian martyr, Calepodius 

There are literally hundreds, perhaps thousands of little messages and reminders of Scriptural stories and lessons represented throughout this magnificent church, like so many little stickie notes all over the walls. Mary has many things to remind us and to teach us.  I have tried to find photos so you can spend some time with our dear Mother as she opens the great heart of Our Lord to us and reminds us of His merciful love.  Why don't you curl up beside her and enjoy this time with her?  I have included a Sanctus for Mass from Bach that you can listen to as you share this time with her.

The Life of Mary Mosaics in the Apse, by Pietro Capellini

The Nativity of Mary - mosaic by Pietro Cavallini 

Detail - The Nativity of Mary - mosaic by Pietro Cavallini 

The Annunciation - Santa Maria in Trastevere by Pietro Cavallini

Detail - The Annunciation

Detail - The Annunciation - Mary

Our Savior is born 

Detail - The Nativity of Our Lord - shepherd

Adoration of the Magi - mosaic by Pietro Cavallini 

The Presentation in the Temple - mosaic by Pietro Cavallini

Detail - Presentation in the Temple - Simeon with the Child

I love the expressions on the faces in the detail of the mosaic above:

The espression on Simeon's face almost seems to say "I am so sorry my dear boy, but . . . . ."

While little Jesus looks back at Simeon and seems to say "You've got to be kidding me . . . . ." when He hears the part about a sword piercing His Mother's heart!

The Dormition (falling asleep) of the Virgin by Pietro Capellini - See Jesus, who appears to be holding a child?  The child represents Mary's soul.  Her body will follow in 3 days.

Detail - The Dormition

The Chapels of Santa Maria in Trastevere

Ceiling of the Alltemps Chapel 

Ceiling of the Avila Chapel 

Ceiling of the St Francis Chapel 

Stained glass windows depicting Popes Julius, Callixtus, and Cornelius 

Floors

Above and below are examples of a Cosmatesque Floor - so called after the medieval Cosmati family who originated this intricate style of flooring incorporating geometric designs of decorative inlaid stonework.  This type floor is typical of the architecture of Medieval Italy, especially Rome, and was inspired by work done in the Byzantine Empire.

Ccsmatesque floor detail  

A side aisle in Santa Maria Trastevere 

The same side aisle as above, looking into the Nave 

The opposite side aisle

A statue of St. Anthony with the Child Jesus.  Notice the quaint custom of stuffing messages and requests into his arms!

Below:  They actually overflow into a pile at his feet!

The Council of Trent - Fresco by Pasquale Cati da Iese, Pasquale 1588

The Virgin Mother of God - ancient fresco

The piazza in front of Santa Maria in Trastevere is often a gathering place for nightlife in Trastevere.  

Doesn't it remind you of an attentive mother, providing a safe playground for her children?

Campanile - Santa Maria in Trastevere