Resurrection
Objective: Bring the RS back to life
After getting this car back home I realized I had a lot of things to tackle. In my mind the objective became how do I get this car back to stock or better in regards to mechanical and how do I get this car to be bearable when it comes to the aesthetics department.
I knew I had a long road ahead of me but the first stages of most of this was tearing out anything that was old, broken, or useless.
This consisted of:
Broken clock panel
A-Pillar dual gauge pod cluster
Broken Greddy turbo timer
Broken Innovate wide band gauge
Rusted "exhaust shop special" catback
Broken trim pieces
Poorly attached bumper
Torn steering boot
Burnt/Melted rear bumper
Petrified window tint
God-awful coilovers (Godspeeds)
The only way to transport Evo roof moldings affordably is to order them through a Mitsubishi dealer and pick them up yourself
But the worst was the compression...
Ok...
Not Ok....
After doing some wet compression tests I realized that the cylinder was not building pressure even with some oil poured into the chamber so the rings were fine and it had to be coming from the cylinder head.
Time to tear it down
After making some decent progress on aesthetic pieces aka find oem and replace it was time to pull the head, inspect and rebuild.
I knew the cylinder head tear down was going to be a much longer process but I was ready and willingly with the objective to get the motor healthy for the summer track season. So it went on a set of Quickjacks that I purchased for my garage. To this day this is still the best "tool" I have ever purchased.
So it begins
Pulling the head is really not that difficult on a 4G63. Key takeaways from me on it would be PB blast anything hot or corroded daily a week in advance of tearing into it, take your time, and buy the right tools aka don't try to make the wrong tool work.
After dropping off at the machine shop for diagnosis It turns out the cause for the low compression were the valve guides being worn.
Hammagren Suspension Werks & Grip
While the engine is undergoing refresh the next thing to focus on is the very tired and worn suspension. This area is my favorite when it comes to Evo's and often overlooked. For my setup there were a couple of key components I would be replacing and refreshing.
Ohlins R&T coilovers (with 9k front and 10k rear springs)
SSB Designs custom top hats for Ohlins for +5 degrees of extra castor
Whiteline RCK
Stainless brake lines
Whiteline lower camber bolt
H&R upper camber bolt
Whiteline rear sway bar
Whiteline rear end links
Replacing the weird purple Brembo front caliper (IDK)
ARP front studs
STM 20mm Spacers
Enkei RPF1's
Carbotech XP10 front pads and XP8 rear pads
and many other misc bushings, motor mounts, n stuff
Engine Re-assembly
With the cylinder head refreshed with new valve guides, titanium springs, retainers, zero tick lifters and new ARP studs in the block it was time to reassemble. One note on this is I highly suggest ordering the Mitsubishi Evo IX master engine gasket set for rebuilds. There are so many misc gaskets, o-rings, copper washers, and things you don't think about and the kit comes with all of it.
In addition to refreshing many of the gaskets, timing components, bolts, studs, etc I also had some components cerakoted to help with overall head management. I had the manifold, rear waterpipe, and heat shields all coated.
One additional note worth mentioning here is an OEM problem with 4G63's and that is oil starvation. One helpful part for this is the Kiggly HLA which replaces the OEM (which can allow too much oil into the head) and limits the flow rate to a constant 15 psi
Re-assembly Time!
With all of the parts having arrived and back from the machine shop its time to re-assemble and get it timed.
Below are a couple of extremely helpful videos on reassembly, timing, and torquing.
Once everything was primed, timed, and installed it was time to fire it up. The car fired right up and compression was fixed!