The Coronet of the Plague Times

                                                                                                                     The Tale of a Plaque - AS LV (55)

Late last year I was asked by Her Excellency Veronica Passamonte to design and construct a Coronet for Her Excellency Gracia for when she stepped down as Landed Baroness of  Hawkwood.  Gracia had been a firm supporter of my work and consistently wore the Fillet that I had gifted her a couple of years ago at War of the Wings.   There was quite a bit of research and thought that would have to be considered and after conferring with numerous Bead Embroiderer's through my real world contacts there was a bit of fear as I started the design process.   So many comments were going through my mind, " Oh, you will never get the crown points to stay in place and,  Oh, I really think you should reconsider this and decline".   Not a lot of support in this approach.   This would be my first coronet.  Yes, I have designed Bead Embroidered Collars and Arm Cuffs, Three Dimensional dolls and all kinds of wonderful jewelry, but this was for a Historic perspective for a Court Baroness.   Her Excellency Veronica stated that Gracia had two wishes when I was asked to begin; First, the color blue and second, she wanted the standard Baronial Coronet points with pearls.   So the drafting was begun, the research started, the inspiration was looked for and then....." The Plaque Began".  The Society of Creative Anachronism was put on hold during the COVID-19 Pandemic and we went to a virtual world.  There would be no one on one contact to begin the fitting process and it was a surprise.  So a base measurement was taken and transmitted secretly and the real work began.  

I was more fortunate than most, my employment continued in our specialized industry and I was still the Regional Exchequer for Maryland and Western North Carolina with all of the changes that entailed during the Pandemic.   So what follows is:  The research, the development of construction processes, the " Holy Cow- I am out of band-aids".   Needless to say, I now own stock in Johnson & Johnson.

How did I come to acquire the confidence that I could build a usable and beautifully beaded coronet?   Actually, it was the  personal commentary from our current Majesty,  Anton Tremayne at Kingdom Arts and Sciences, 2020 in March.  As they were walking through viewing the artisans that were displaying their wares and creations, as our Royal Highness at the time, he kindly asked how many hours I had in the newest work - " The Carcanet"?  Over two hundred and thirty hours , your Highness, was the response, and I showed him the process for the foundation that I introduced, starched Felted Wool as a foundation for beading and additionally verified that not all Carcanet's were made with metal and the various decorative processes painted in historic portraits.  

" I would really like for you to talk with my squires about patience".   " The patience it takes to create an item for display".  

I have never forgot that.

The Inspiration:

A Project X Theory and Conclusion.  How do I design a Coronet in Fabric and beading using the following historical inspiration meeting the requirements of the new owner?  

Using starched Woolen Felt that has been sized and blocked.  Using two period Bead Embroidery stitches of the Single/Double Bead or Pearl stitch and couching.  Using Semi-Precious gemstones of Labradorite and stabilized turquoise because of the Blue request.  And of course, the use of beads, pearls, pearls and more pearls.  Only three sizes were used.  3mm, 4mm and 12mm for the points.  As I am not a formal metal worker I use my artist approach to encrust the beads and pearls within metal beads to simulate a prong setting.  

I have seen inspiration Coronets made in wood and inspiration Coronets made in metal and once I was sent a Bead Embroidered Crown ( not a Coronet ) on display in the East Kingdom Arts and Science Display which was sent to me by my Peer and Her Consort.   I shall include the photograph.   

I would like to take a moment and recognize two other members of the Society of Creative Anachronism who excels in Bead Embroidery and the history of Bead Embroidery for the time period of 1100-1700 .  The Honorable Lady Elspeth Grizel of Dunfort.  Jen Segrest a member of the Barony Flaming Gryphon of the Middle Kingdom.  Whenever I find that I need to refresh my research I visit her site www.medievalbeads.com and just seeing her collection of extant items and historic portraits refreshes my soul.  Make sure you check out her visit to the Victoria and Albert Museum:  http://medievalbeads.com/my-va-visit-notes-and-pictures/

Additionally,  The Honorable Lady Sine Gunssdottir ( Janis M. James)  Principality of Tir Righ, Kingdom  of An Tir 

https://timeless-creations.ca/Historical-Beadwork-Part-1.pdf

In conclusion for Inspiration - I have several other pictorials that could be added to include the 15th Century Mantle Florets for the Order of the Golden Fleece,  the 1130 and 1154 Beaded and pearled Cuffs from the Palermo Royal Workshop, the ladies gloves with the pearled Pelicans circa 1600-1620 from England and displayed by the Worshipful Company of Glovers' in London, Lorenzo Lotto's Venus and Cupid, Mid 1520 with a stunning diadem.  So many references from 1100 to 1699 which are a part of my Data Base for the book currently in development.  

Construction Processes and the ability to overcome obstacles:

Sectioning for the 6 points on Bead Embroidery backing.    My current process for starching Wool Felt (vendor from England)  was begun and I calculated I would need three sheets of felted wool.  ( I will not currently dialog on how I do this as it was introduced at Kingdom of Atlantia, Kingdom Arts and Sciences 2020 - right before the Plaque began.).  I am currently researching the concept of producing them for sale in the General Public.  My screens were prepared and starching and drying commenced.  

I did notice that between the three sheets of felted wool - there were slight color variations between them even though the recipe for starch was the same and the dip and spray process was the same.  ( Need to look into this further).

I was given the 22" head diameter to work with for the recipient so my layout template would need modification.   " Note to self:  Wool expands if there is any pulling ".  Lesson learned.

I selected Labradorite Cabachons for the points and stabilized turquoise for the bottom row.   These were hand cabbed so the sizing is different for each stone but the effect is beautiful.  

12/14/24- Yule Toy Tourney in the Barony of Nottinghill Coill.  This would be the final event for House Mashburn before they leave for Western Canada to begin a new life and they were divesting alot of  SCA Items in the process and also Yard Sales for other personal items.  I cannot say it will not be sad to see them leave but I fully understand why they are moving.  I found a lovely gown that Veronica was selling and a lovely chemise.  Lindsey asked if I would take the Coronet back and keep it safe and if I needed to give it to someone else, then she understood.  She would keep the fillet just in case they had something they needed one gown for but they had absolutely no room and she did not want anything to happen to it.   So I have it at the studio.  I'll go through and make sure everything is firmed up and keep it safe.  It will help me through designing mine as well.