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As any kiter accumulates kites, sooner or later a Kite Bag is needed to store and transport multiple kites. This page shows how to make a 4-foot long bag that is 24" around. Back in the day, kite bags were cylindrical. They were rectangles of fabric with circles sewn on the ends. Sewing a circle to a rectangle is an exercise in patience and precision. Paul Fieber shared a trick he learned from Kevin Sanders for making bags with square ends. It is faster and easier. That is the method shown here.Â
Picture a Tote Bag. It basically a cube. It is made from a rectangle of fabric. The rectangle is folded in half and the ends are sewn (Seam A). Then one of the open edges is sewn (Seam B). Then two seams (Seam C) are sewn sewn perpendicular to the edge seam. This gives the bag a flat bottom. But it also leaves two triangular flaps that must be dealt with. That 'extra' material can be removed by cutting rectangular notches in the fabric before any sewing is done.
Picture a Tote Bag. It basically a cube. It is made from a rectangle of fabric. The rectangle is folded in half and the ends are sewn (Seam A). Then one of the open edges is sewn (Seam B). Then two seams (Seam C) are sewn sewn perpendicular to the edge seam. This gives the bag a flat bottom. But it also leaves two triangular flaps that must be dealt with. That 'extra' material can be removed by cutting rectangular notches in the fabric before any sewing is done.
4-foot Kite Bag Materials List:
4-foot Kite Bag Materials List:
24" x 55" of 400 Pack Cloth or 1,000 D Nylon
69" of 1" Polyester Webbing
56-1/2" of #5 Vislon Zipper Chain
2 - #5 Vislon Sliders
Before marking the fabric, determine the coated side. One trick is to hold the fabric between thumb and forefinger. Rub back and forth. A finger will stick or hold its place on the coated side. The finger that moves easiest on the fabric in on the non-coated side. The coated side will be on the inside of the bag. All marking will be done on non-coated side.
Fold the fabric in half to find the middle. Mark it with chalk on the non-coated side. Do it on both edges.
Fold the fabric in half to find the middle. Mark it with chalk on the non-coated side. Do it on both edges.
Mark with chalk on the non-coated side of the fabric.
Mark with chalk on the non-coated side of the fabric.
A 6" x 24" quilting ruler makes it easy to locate the marks.
A 6" x 24" quilting ruler makes it easy to locate the marks.
This is what the marks should look like.
This is what the marks should look like.
Fold the webbing in half and mark across the webbing in the middle.
Fold the webbing in half and mark across the webbing in the middle.
The Middle Mark on the webbing aligns with the Middle Mark on the fabric.
The Middle Mark on the webbing aligns with the Middle Mark on the fabric.
This shows where the stitching should go. Sew as close to the edge of the webbing as is comfortable. Sew to 4" from the edge of the fabric, then sew back and forth across the webbing 3 times. Then sew down the other side to 4" from the edge. Sew back and forth across the webbing 3 times. Then sew along the edge of the webbing to the starting point.
This shows where the stitching should go. Sew as close to the edge of the webbing as is comfortable. Sew to 4" from the edge of the fabric, then sew back and forth across the webbing 3 times. Then sew down the other side to 4" from the edge. Sew back and forth across the webbing 3 times. Then sew along the edge of the webbing to the starting point.
Taping the webbing in place makes the sewing easier.
Taping the webbing in place makes the sewing easier.
The needle is offset all the way to the right. The edge of the Presser Foot is lined up with the edge of the webbing.
The needle is offset all the way to the right. The edge of the Presser Foot is lined up with the edge of the webbing.
Aligning the rest of the webbing. Notice - no twists. The closer loop of webbing aligns with the farther Overlap Mark.
Aligning the rest of the webbing. Notice - no twists. The closer loop of webbing aligns with the farther Overlap Mark.
Showing that the near webbing aligns with the far mark. The far webbing aligns with the near mark.
Showing that the near webbing aligns with the far mark. The far webbing aligns with the near mark.
This is what it should look like.
This is what it should look like.
Another look at the overlap. Sew this side just like the first side. Close to the edge of the webbing and back and forth 4" from the fabric edge.
Another look at the overlap. Sew this side just like the first side. Close to the edge of the webbing and back and forth 4" from the fabric edge.
When the webbing has been sewn, it is time for the Notches. Apologies for the focus. This shows using a 3" wide quilting ruler to align a straightedge 3" in from the end.
When the webbing has been sewn, it is time for the Notches. Apologies for the focus. This shows using a 3" wide quilting ruler to align a straightedge 3" in from the end.
One method of marking/cutting the 3" x 5" notches. Straightedge is 3" from End. The first mark/cut is 3-1/2" from Edge.
One method of marking/cutting the 3" x 5" notches. Straightedge is 3" from End. The first mark/cut is 3-1/2" from Edge.
Move the square another 5" to the right and mark or hot cut the second Notch line.
Move the square another 5" to the right and mark or hot cut the second Notch line.
Do the same thing for the other notch, measuring in from the Edge. The flap on each side should be 3-1/2" wide and the flap in the middle should be 7".
Do the same thing for the other notch, measuring in from the Edge. The flap on each side should be 3-1/2" wide and the flap in the middle should be 7".
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