Raw Diet

Below is a link to the Holistic website with intro-to-raw guides.

https://holisticferretforum.com/natural-diet/raw-diet-the-meat-of-the-site/

Best raw websites to order from (US):

http://www.rawfeedingmiami.com - this is where I order from, cheapest shipping for someone who lives in the middle of nowhere on the west coast

http://www.mypetcarnivore.com

http://hare-today.com

Other neat Raw resources:

https://www.rfas.uk/

https://www.rfas.uk/ferret-starter-guide

Obligate Carnivores

By Holly

If you want to feed raw, check out Holistic Ferret. They have a group on Facebook if you’re interested in learning more! With raw, there are very specific guidelines of how to keep it a balanced diet, it can be spendy, and pretty gross at times. (Note: Must be RAW, never cooked).

This balance is 65-70% muscle meat, 10-15% edible bone, 10% heart, 5% liver, 5% other secreting organs. They’ll need at least 3 different types of proteins to eat, one being red meat (ex: chicken, rabbit, beef). But it is worth it, and the best you can do for your fuzzies.

(Please note that it can be a STRUGGLE to switch to raw - most fuzzies don’t recognize that it is something they can eat! Don’t be discouraged if they don’t even try the raw the first time you offer. Holistic has great info about how you can help them with this process!)

I found it easiest to switch my boys from kibble to freeze-dried raw, then full raw. I only needed to buy one bag of Stella & Chewy's. This is great to help give you time to understand the diet and prepare for it, while also helping your fuzzies transition easier.

The soupie/transition recipe on Holistic is great to use. If your fuzzies are slow to accept it, you can order raw Grinds from the websites on the side - they are pre-balanced (though not for ferrets - if you plan on feeding grinds long-term you will need to add extra hearts to the mix for the proper taurine amounts.) and a great step from soupies to whole chunks

Ferret-World's article about the importance of BALANCED raw diet, especially for kits


Kibble & Raw

By Holly

Kibble is so carb-heavy and raw is protein-heavy, that the stomach digests these completely differently. Some say kibble takes longer to digest, and raw much quicker, so the raw will sit and wait in the stomach while the kibble is being digested, turning the raw sour. Others say kibble & raw digest at about the same time, and it’s the processed foods vs raw bioavailable foods that causes the issue. Either way, this can cause upset stomach, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea.

When both kibble and raw are eaten as part of the over-all diet, the kibble-digestion process can cancel out the efficiency of absorbing nutrients from the raw. Their bodies aren’t made to digest some of the things in kibble, and these ingredients can cause inflammation, where the body fights off the effects of these foods (similar to an infection). During this time, their ability to break down foods is reduced. This also means the pH in their gut isn’t strong enough to break down bone, which can cause internal cuts or blockages.

When one feeds a mixture of raw and kibble, the stomach acid can never reach that very acidic level that could kill bacteria, digest properly, nor absorb nutrients. It takes more effort for the body and can slow the elimination of waste as well as cause digestive upset which can include vomiting and diarrhea. Once the predigested food leaves the stomach, it needs to be at the proper pH to trigger the release of the pancreatic enzymes that do most of the digesting. If there’s starch in the meal, the higher pH means fewer of those enzymes will be released and undigested food particles can trigger inflammation and an immune response called leaky gut syndrome. Leaky gut can allow undigested food and bacteria to pass through the wall of the small intestine, where they enter the body and cause immune disorders. If undigested food enters the colon, the last stop in the digestive tract, it can disrupt the friendly bacteria that live there and cause inflammation … which can cause diarrhea and irritable bowel syndrome.

Because processed food is made under high heat, kills off probiotics and enzymes. The body is still in a depressed state actually making them more susceptible to illness and disease. This is why so many pet foods are removed from the shelf when a recall of listeria or salmonella is announced. It’s easiest to think about this in terms of people. People who eat more processed food, junk food and carbs are more likely to get a cold or the flu. Normally, if that animal were on a 100% raw diet they would be able to handle the bacteria load, neutralize it and destroy it often never being affected by the actual bacteria. When the pH of the gut is increased (less acidic), then pathogenic bacteria like E coli and salmonella are more likely to survive and cause digestive upset or illness.

If you must feed raw AND kibble (or plan on feeding some raw as a snack), they need to be fed 4 hours apart from each other - this is how long a ferret's digestion takes, and a safe amount of time between the two for the gut to be able to handle one or the other. Also I HIGHLY suggest adding probiotics & prebiotics. Adding probiotics to your ferret’s meals will help crowd out the harmful, pathogenic bacteria like E. coli, salmonella, listeria and campylobacter. And salmonella activity can be inhibited friendly bacteria. Probiotics can also help because the friendly bacteria assist in the production of digestive enzymes, which can improve digestion. If you’re going to add probiotics don’t forget the prebiotics too! Prebiotics are various types of preferred foods that nourish the probiotic bacteria and keep them active. Feeding prebiotics along with probiotics gives your ferret symbiotics.


Raw Ground (hamburger) Meat

By Holly

Not recommended. Ground meat from a grocery store has the potential to have higher levels of pathogens. When meat is ground it greatly increases the surface area where bacteria can multiply. It also spreads any bacteria present on the outside of the meat throughout the mix. Grocery store ground meat is intended to be thoroughly cooked. In fact, they are counting on the fact that you will cook it. Not that that all grocery ground meat is bad, just that the potential for trouble is higher.


Pork

By Holly

Pork is totally fine! :) Some people worry about pork because pork can be infected with Trichinella. If you have 100% good source of pork, you can use it for your ferrets. ANY HUMAN-GRADE PORK will be safe for your ferret to eat (and honestly, any raw providers Holistic Ferrets suggest will be USDA-certified if it's in the US, so it should be fine!)

The natural salt content is nothing to worry about - but if you buy muscle meat from the store, you do need to check the packaging to make sure it's not injected with saline to preserve freshness, and that it has NO SEASONING. This is where the extra salt can come from.

My boys have pork every other week and they love it! They also enjoy pork heart, liver, and kidney 😍



Fish

By Holly

Fish should only be fed maybe twice a month or so if you are feeding it as meals. Too much fish can increase their stink, can introduce too much mercury & thiaminase to their diet, and create Vitamin B1 deficiencies.

If you are feeding it as treats, you can cut it up into small bits and feed it more frequently, since they won't be getting nearly as much as a meals worth. Some fish that are good to try are sprats, smelts, wild salmon, shrimp, herring, mackerel, trout, catfish, pollock, whitefish, or tilapia.

Also fresh fish need to be frozen for 3 weeks to kill any parasites. Usually the smaller the fish, the better, since bigger fish can have higher levels of mercury :) You can use this list below for garter snakes to check for safe fish- only feed species that are thiaminase free.

Also never any fish from the pet store (feeder fish) since they are usually crammed full of antibiotics :( (In case anyone is curious)

http://www.gartersnake.info/articles/2012/all-about-thiaminase.php

https://www.rfas.uk/fish-feeding-guide


Wild Game

Courtesy of Megan Carfino

Never feed any species of wild pig or wild boar. They are host to a parasite that cannot be killed by freezing - Trichinella. Wild canines and bears can also carry this parasite, as well as some species of rodents.

Wild mice should not be fed - stick to domestic feeder-bred mice. Wild mice are carriers for a variety of diseases, and there is a decent likelihood that they could cause secondary poisoning if poison has been laid out for them anywhere nearby.

Know the diseases present in the area your wild game is coming from, especially sylvatic/bubonic plague, hantavirus, rabies, tularemia, etc.

It is recommended that you do not feed any cervid infected with chronic wasting disease. Deer, elk, and moose should always have their brain tissue tested before feeding. CWD is found not only in the brain and spinal fluid, but also in the muscle tissue itself. Do not feed meat from a CWD+ animal, and do not eat it yourself.

Do not feed predators/carnivores to your ferret frequently, if at all. Predator species typically carry a heavier concentration of heavy metals & environmental toxins due to biomagnification. Some commonly fed predator species are alligator and multiple fish species.

https://holisticferretforum.com/natural-diet/diet-files/wild-game/