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Sewing Tutorials
MAKE A BED RUNNER
Instructions
1
Measure the width of your mattress and down the sides to the desired length. This is the length of your runner. If you will be using the runner as a pillow topper, you will want to measure over the top of your pillows and down the sides of the bed. Iron the runner's top fabric to remove any wrinkles or creases. Cut a long rectangle 24 inches wide by the length measurement from the bed.
2
Iron your backing fabric. Lay out your backing fabric on a large flat surface with the wrong side up. Place quilt batting over the backing fabric. Center the runner top on the batting with the right side up. Pin the layers together.
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3
Cut the batting using the runner top as a pattern. Cut the backing 1 inch larger than the runner on all sides.
4
Fold the backing to the edge of the runner top and press. Fold the remaining 1/2-inch edge of the backing over the front edge of the runner, creating a binding. Miter fold the corners and pin the binding. Zigzag stitch the pinned binding to the runner.
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How to Make a Bed Runner
Bed runners or pillow toppers are similar in shape to a table runner. They are placed across the foot of the bed as added decoration for your bedcovering or over the tops of your pillows in place of pillow shams. Make a bed runner or pillow topper to create the finishing touch to a room's decor. If decorating your room or a guest room for the holidays, use seasonal or holiday print fabrics. They can be made to fit any size mattress, and a basic runner can be sewn in less than an hour
Read more: How to Make a Bed Runner | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6696450_make-bed-runner.html#ixzz2IT6i2WMH
Things You'll Need
Measuring tape
Top fabric, amount determined by size of mattress
Iron
Scissors
Backing fabric, amount determined by size of mattress
Quilt batting, amount determined by size of mattress
Straight pins
Sewing machine
Read more: How to Make a Bed Runner | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6696450_make-bed-runner.html#ixzz2IT6oPmCG
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Tips & Warnings
The runner can be quilted or tied, and the top can be appliqued or pieced, if desired.
Cutting a vintage quilt that has been damaged and using it for the runner top is a wonderful way of preserving a portion of a family heirloom.
Choose fabric with a color or design that coordinates with your existing bedcover.
Read more: How to Make a Bed Runner | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6696450_make-bed-runner.html#ixzz2IT6YPXB5
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MAIL HOLDER
I decided to make something that was practical and easy. And I have needed one of these for ages.
http://whynotsew.blogspot.com/2012/03/farmers-wife-in-your-life-letter-holder.html
I made a mail / bill / letter holder. It is really easy to make and I hope you enjoy it! So let's get organized!
You will need:
3 ~ 6.5 inch quilt blocks
3 ~ 6.5 x 8.5 inch pieces of fabric that coordinate with your quilt blocks
3 ~ 6.5 inch pieces of batting
1 ~ 6.5 x 25 inch piece of batting
3 ~ 6.5 inch squares of fabric for quilt block backing
1 ~ 6.5 x 25 inch piece of fabric for organizer backing
3 ~ 2 1/4 inch X WOF (width of fabric) strips for binding
Baker's twine, ribbon or binding for a hanger (not pictured)
Make or use any orphan quilt blocks that measure 6.5 inches.
First you will layer the quilt block, 6.5 inch batting and 6.5 inch backing.
Quilt as desired.
Now sew your binding and use some of it to bind the top of each block. I sew the binding to the back of the block and fold it over to the front.
Then top stitch it down.
Now we are going to sew the quilt blocks onto their coordinating 6.5 x 8.5 inch fabric pieces.
Top stitch 1/8 of an inch away from the edge on both sides. Do this for all of the quilt blocks and their coordinating fabrics. Trim any extra binding and threads away from blocks.
Next arrange your blocks vertically the way you like them. Now sew the bottom block to the middle block. The seam will sort of naturally go toward the background fabric (away for the middle block). Press the seam down toward the bottom block.
Now sew the top block to the middle block. Press the seam down toward the middle block.
Next layer the 6.5 by 25 inch batting and backing with the quilted pockets and top stitch about 1/8 of an inch away from the seams that you pressed down...
here... http://whynotsew.blogspot.com/2012/03/farmers-wife-in-your-life-letter-holder.html
and here.
Also sew about 1/8 of an inch from the top and bottom of the organizer to hold things in place. Then trim away any excess batting and backing.
Now, starting at the top of the organizer, bind the organizer. Making sure to insert your hanger at the top before finishing off the binding. Place the hanger downward on the backside of the organizer between the binding and backing fabric. Be sure to keep it out of the way as you finish off your binding. I used a quadruple folded piece of Baker's twine.
And that's it! Your finished and now have a one super cute mail / bill / letter holder organizer thing :) As you can see I did not put mine in it's permanent place yet.
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Best Press Bag - Bags to go over spray or drink bottles
http://terryatkinson.typepad.com/atkinsondesigns/2008/11/best-press-bag.html
Start:
I decorated mine with a yo-yo and a button. Send me a comment about how you'll decorate yours and I'll enter you in a drawing to win my Let's Do Lunch book. Two names will be drawn at random on December 1st so the winners can make some easy table runners or tote bags for holiday gifts.
Let's get started. Cut two 9-1/2" squares - one main color and one lining. I used two of the Paisley Party prints that Liz Lois and I designed for Red Rooster. Note from Sheila G in CA: If you have an older bottle, cut your squares 10-1/2" to accommodate the girth!
Stitch the two squares together using a 1/4" seam.
Fold it in half and stitch a scant 1/4" seam along the long edge.
Fold the lining fabric over the main color - it will wrap around the 1/4" seam so that 1/4" of the lining shows next to the main color. The lining will be on the outside and the main color will be on the inside. Topstitch along the seam as shown.
Press the long seam. If you position the bag on the edge of the ironing board you can press it without making any creases in the bag.
Place the bag on your cutting mat with the long seam centered. Trim the raw edges even at the bottom of the bag. (the bottom of the bag is shown at the right in the photo) Stitch a 1/4" seam along the trimmed edge.
Fold each bottom corner as shown and mark a line 1" over from the point. Stitch on the lines. This will make the bottom of the bag flat.
Turn the bag right side out. Fold the cuff down about 2-1/4" and adjust it to fit the bottle. Tie a contrasting piece of rick rack or ribbon around the cuff for a quick gift or go hog wild and really doll it up! Believe it or not, it took me longer to find a matching button than it did to make the whole bag!
To make the travel size bag, cut two rectangles 7" x 8". Stitch them together along the 7" edge. When making the corners, measure over 3/4" from the point.
Here's another quick gift for you to make .
The directions for this wine tote are on page 11 of my Let's Do Lunch book. I'm not good at pouring wine - just look at all the bubbles. I've had more practice pouring beer . . . Look on the back cover of your book to see how nice it looks after the guys at the printer photoshopped the bubbles out. If you don't have the book yet, ask for it at your local quilt shop.
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LINED TRAVEL BAG
For each bag you will need...
2 Fat quarters.
One for the outside of the bag...
and one for the lining.
Cut EACH fat quarter to measure 17" x 21".
For the tie you will need one
2 1/2" x 44" strip of fabric.
Fold the lining in half with
right sides together so that it
measures 10 1/2" x 17".
On the side that isn't folded,
measure 7" down from the top and
5" up from the bottom...
placing a mark on the seam allowance
so that you know where to
stop and start stitching....
this is your opening for turning
right side out later.
Using a 1/4" seam allowance,
sew along the bottom edge and the side, leaving the top open...
and make sure to leave the opening
that you have marked unstitched.
Don't forget to backstitch each time
that you stop and start again.
Fold the bag front in half with right sides together so that it measures 10 1/2" x 17".
You will need to leave an opening for
the tie on this piece.
Measure 2" down from the top and mark...
then measure another 1 1/4" down
from that line and mark again.
You should have 2 marks 1 1/4"apart.
Stitch along the bottom and the side...leaving the area between your markings unstitched. Backstitch to secure stitches each time
you stop and start again.
You will need to finger press the seams open on the bag front and stitch around the casing opening so that the seam allowance won't come out when you tie and untie your bag.
By the way...I used matching thread on my other bags but I used contrasting thread for this one so that you could see my stitches:)
For this next step,
turn the bag front right side out but
keep the lining turned wrong side out.
Place the bag front inside of the lining and line up the top edges and the
side seam allowance.
Pin into place and stitch all the way
around the top edges.
Like this. -photo
Remember the opening in the lining?...
it's time to pull the
front of the bag through it...
Like this. -photo
Now both front and lining are sewn together
at the top and both are turned
right side out like this.
Now top stitch the opening in
the lining closed...
Like this. -photo
As I said before, your front and lining are sewn together at the top...
now push the lining inside of the
bag front until they both lay
as flat as possible and
give your bag a nice press.
To form your casing for the tie...
sew a line 1 1/2" down from the top...
and then another line 2 3/4" from the top.
You will have a casing that
measures 1 1/4" wide..
and a finished opening in the
bag front for the tie!
Fold your 2 1/2" x 44" strip of fabric
with right sides together and
stitch down the side with
a 1/4" seam allowance.
Use your favorite turning method and
turn it right side out...
for this one I used the
tried and true
safety pin method
that my mom taught me:)
After turning...
give it a nice press and
tuck the seam allowance inside on
each end and topstitch closed.
I used the safety pin again
to thread
my tie thru the casing.
Lay your bag out flat until the end
of the ties are even...
And stitch a small zigzag back and forth
a few times over the center of
the tie inside the casing
so that it won't come out!
The tie is long enough to tie a cute bow:)
Your bag is ready for travel...
or gift giving:)
I think I'll make a few of these
for
my mom for Mother's Day
and fill
them with something fun!
I wanted to show you one of the bags
that I made using my fabric that
looks like it's already been pieced...
but it wasn't...it just comes off the bolt
that way!...that's how I designed it:)
I have made several of these bags already and I have even more cut out and ready to go.
I hope you all enjoyed my latest tutorial...
and until next time...
have a quilty kind of day!!!
Lori
http://beeinmybonnetco.blogspot.com/2012/03/lined-travel-bag-tutorial.html
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Water Bottle Carrier Tutorial
http://www.pinkchalkstudio.com/blog/2006/07/10/whiplash-challenge-water-bottle-carrier/
This water bottle carrier was inspired when I found myself carrying everyone’s water in my backpack for the 4th of July parade. Next time, everyone carries their own! This is my first tutorial so please feel free to send me corrections or comments on how to make it better.
1. Cutting Instructions
Cut one piece of fabric for the exterior and one piece for the interior each 10 3/4 wide x 8 inches tall. I’ve pieced my exterior fabric with two coordinating prints in the tutorial pictures.
Cut 2 circles of your lining fabric, the circle should have a 3 3/4 inch diameter. The diameter of the circle stitching line is 3 inches. Add an additional 3/8 inch seam allowance making the cut circle diameter 3 3/4 inches.
Cut one piece of Insul-Brite 9 x 7 inches. Cut one Insul-Brite circle with a diameter of 3 inches.
For strap, cut one length of twill tape and one length of ribbon, both 42 inches long. This fits my 8 and 11 year old daughters. When I sized it for myself I cut it 50 inches long.
2. Sew exterior to lining along the top edge only, right sides together using a 3/8 inch seam.
3. Press open seam.
4. The Insul-Brite is going to get sandwiched between the exterior and the lining. Pin Insul-Brite to the wrong side of exterior fabric, aligning and centering top of batting with the joined seam line. Pin in place about an inch down to keep batting from sliding around. Fold over the the lining fabric and pin some more. Top stitch 1/4 inch along the top edge. This provides a baseline anchoring of the batting.
5. Pin entire sandwich like a quilt, securing as needed to keep layers from puckering when stitched. Stitch all layers as you please. Repeat this for the bottom circle. Finish bottom edge of top and edges of circle with a zigzag stitch or serger.
6. I used a French seam to join the side edges of the carrier. A French seam is two steps which result in the raw edge being trapped inside the second seam. Use some scraps and do a practice seam if this is the first time trying this. This seam is great for fairy skirts too!
Step One: Pin WRONG sides of sides together and stitch a 1/4 inch seam. Don’t press seam open, you want them to lay flat together.
Step Two: Turn tube wrong side out. Pin again along the edge, RIGHT sides together and stitch a 3/8 inch seam. This seam will ‘trap’ the previous seam inside. This gives you a nice clean finished edge for the inside of your carrier.
7. Leave tube with lining turned to the outside. Pin bottom circle to tube’s raw edge, right sides together. Clip edges of the tube to make fitting easier. Only clip about 1/4 inch into seamline.
8. Stitch using a 3/8 inch seam.
9. Turn carrier right side out.
10. Attach twill tape to ribbon with a single stitch down the center.
11. Turn up 1 inch of strap raw edge and attach to inside edge of tube, centering ends on either side of the carrier side seam. (After making this I think it would have been easier to attach the strap before creating the tube.)
12. Enjoy watching your kids carry their own water bottle.
Tips:
This carrier fits a small 500 mL bottle of water. I used a Crystal Geyser bottle that was 8 inches around. The finished tube is 9 inches in circumference and 7 1/4 inches tall.
The formula for sizing the diameter of the bottom circle is: the circumference of the circle divided by 3.14 (or pi). The circumference is measured by laying the top part of your bag flat, measuring the opening from one side to the other and then doubling. I usually round up the result of the formula just to keep things simple and add for a little shrinkage that will occur when the circle is quilted. I then add a 3/8 inch seam allowance or a total of 3/4 inch to the diameter measurement. In this example, a 9 inch circumference divided by 3.14 = 2.866, I rounded to 3 inches and added 3/4 of an inch for the total seam allowance.
Insul-Brite is a thin batting with a thin layer of foil. It will hold in heat or cold. If using it for potholders it’s recommended to use two additional layers of regular batting. I purchased mine at JoAnns.
Go to Whip Up and see all the other fabulous entries for this round of the Whip Lash Challenge. My entry is for the Tutorial category.
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Tutorial – How to Bury Serger Threads
This is a quick trick I learned in a ‘How to User Your Serger’ class I took at Esther’s. It was taught by my friend Johanna Branley. The BEST money I’ve ever spent on a class. If you don’t know everything you should about your serger, seek out a class at a local shop. I’d owned mine for 5 years before learning to use it. It’s never too late!
1/16/2012 – this tool is called a Loop Turner, you can see an example of one on the Dritz website.
http://www.pinkchalkstudio.com/blog/tutorials/how-to-bury-serger-threads/
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