Sewing Notes

Sears Kenmore Sewing Machine

Model # 148 12070

Serial # is 100691 (703) ? Brenda got 2 - 1358 belts today - Are they correct? Yes

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Brothers Sewing Machine Information

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Serger Sewing Machine

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Sewing Notes

Magdalene borrowed my straight tailed dress pattern with darts at the waist in July 2014. Also one other one.

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Interfacing notes

Today, I have the pleasure of talking about one of my most favorite things in the world…interfacing! This post will be concentrated on the particular Pellon Interfacings that I use while making bags. Interfacing makes up 25% of my stash…no lie! It’s one of those things that you just need to have on hand at all times, because you’ll use it in most any project – to make quilted items, bags, garments, you name it!

Pellon interfacing is available in the U.S. If you are one of my friends in another country, I have put together this helpful interfacing conversion chart for Vilene interfacing that you might use when making a bag. For the purpose of this article, I will refer to particular Pellon interfacings, but feel free to glance at the chart to note the interfacing available in your area.

I assembled this chart with the help of the lovely folks at Pellon. From: http://sewsweetness.com/2012/05/all-about-bag-interfacing.html

USING DIFFERENT SCISSORS

Pinking shears are scissors with saw toothed blades that create a zig zagged edge when you cut with them. This edge is both pretty and functional. Cutting a woven fabric with pinking shears prevents the fabric from fraying beyond this zig zag edge. Because of this a "pinked" edge can be a quick way to finish a seam on a woven fabric. They can also be useful when dealing with knits in reducing the bulk of your seams. Additionally they can add a pretty decorative edge to fabrics that don't fray, like felt. The pinking shears we carry are sharp and substantial. I love how easily they cut though fabric. They will last for a long time if you use them only to cut fabric (no paper!) and don't cut though too many layers at at time. The trick I've found to getting a straight edge is to go slowly and cut one layer at a time. When you're done with one cut pick up the scissors and carefully place them in the grooves of that previous cut and then cut again.

Gingher 8-inch Knife Edge Dressmaker's Shears - See more at: http://www.purlbee.com/2009/03/11/sewing-kit-essentials-scissors/#sthash.ZBRAUboL.dpuf

Dressmaker's shears have a long blade which makes them ideal for cutting out clothing patterns. The term "knife edge" refers to the angle of the blades. Instead of the upper and lower blades being sharpened at a 90 degree angle to one another, the top blade is at a more acute angle. This allows them to cut through the fabric easier than regular scissors. Their slightly bent angle allows for a more comfortable hand position. - See more at: http://www.purlbee.com/2009/03/11/sewing-kit-essentials-scissors/#sthash.ZBRAUboL.dpuf

Mundial Dressmaker's Scissors

Other Dressmaker's Scissors are inexpensive and work well. They are also "knife edge" and they have a comfortable bent angle. I like these scissors a lot because they cut well and I don't feel that I have to be as precious with them as with my beloved Gingher's. I have a couple pairs of these, one with my sewing machine that I use for fabric and one on my desk that I use to cut out patterns, template plastic and whatever else comes my way. These are a great basic pair of scissors to get if you're new to sewing. Gingher 5-inch Tailor Knife Edge Scissors - See more at: http://www.purlbee.com/2009/03/11/sewing-kit-essentials-scissors/#sthash.ZBRAUboL.dpuf

Gingher Knife Edge Tailor Scissors are great for hand sewing. They are portable and work well for cutting out pieces for hand piecing. They are smaller but no less well made or sharp than the Gingher Dressmaker's Shears. Like the dressmaker's shears they also have a "knife edge" so they cut like a dream. They come in handy for applique projects and are small enough to use as embroidery scissors in a pinch. These scissors are made to work for both right and left handed people. - See more at: http://www.purlbee.com/2009/03/11/sewing-kit-essentials-scissors/#sthash.ZBRAUboL.dpuf

I love the beautiful shape of these elegant Stork Embroidery Scissors but more importantly they are very sharp and have a precise point. If you embroider you know how important a good pair of embroidery scissors is. A regular pair of scissors can't get close enough to the fabric to leave you with a neat, non-bulky back of your embroidery. One of embroidery's mantras is that the back should look as neat as the front and these scissors can help you get closer to that seemingly impossible goal. The fine tips also allow you to remove stitches from the front when you need to. I use these exclusively for cutting embroidery thread so they are always sharp and I keep them with my (comically vast) thread stash so they are always at the ready! - See more at: http://www.purlbee.com/2009/03/11/sewing-kit-essentials-scissors/#sthash.ZBRAUboL.dpuf

Lace Angel Pin

Materials Needed:

9" flat lace (may be up to 2" wide, use less length for narrower widths)

9" of 1" wide gold ribbon (or other choice of ribbon or even 1" wide flat lace)

IF MAKING PIN IN CLOTH: you need the equivalent amounts of 2 contrasting print fabrics, edge may be "pinked" but a straight cut is fine too)

5/8" no-hole wood bead (size may vary a little up or down, may use hole bead if you have to)

2" narrow, flat, gold braid ( or narrow rick rack or narrow satin ribbon)- for halo

small bell (or small silk flower or other choice of trims)

flat-back pin (could substitute large safety pin, but will be harder to glue in place)

tacky glue (or glue gun)

needle and thread

scissors (pinking shears optional)

READ ALL DIRECTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING

Body: Start with the 9" lace (or cloth) and needle and thread. Fold under 1/4" on one end. Run a gathering stitch (approx. 1/4" long stitches) close to the top edge.

Fold the other end in 1/4" also before you stitch across it.Pull the thread to gather, and tie tightly. The side where the ends meet is the back.

Wings: Cut the 9" of gold ribbon (or other ribbon or cloth). See General Directions page-"tying" bows. Using those directions, form a bow shape and glue to the TOP FRONT of the gathered lace or cloth. Let glue set.

Head: Glue wood bead to TOP of gathered lace or cloth and wings as shown. Let glue set. Make sure the best (smoothest) side of the wood bead is facing the front. (If you have to use hole bead, angle bead so hole doesn't show too much).

Halo: Cut the 2" of flat gold braid (or rick rack or ribbon). Overlap the ends at right angles as shown and glue. Glue this point to the BACK of the head bead so that halo stands up over head as shown.

Glue flat-back pin to back of body.

Trim front of wings with small bell, flower, or your choice of trims.

photo

Pin can easily be varied for different seasons/holidays. Lace with gold wings and a bell look very festive for Christmas time. Red or pink lace (or heart printed fabric) look cute for Valentine's Day- trim with a small painted wood heart or even a small candy heart. Try shamrock prints for St. Patrick's or garden prints. The possibilities are almost endless.

General Directions Page

Not all of these will be needed for each pattern. Just refer back to this page as needed.

About glue: I use tacky glue for almost all of my projects. I use it instead of a glue gun because I don't like the strings or the fumes from the gun, AND because tacky glue allows you TIME TO REARRANGE if you don't get things perfect at first. Extra thick tacky glue (like Aleene's thick designer tacky) will hold ALMOST as fast as the low temp gun glue, but will still allow you some rearrange time.

If you prefer the glue gun, by all means use it. Just be aware that some materials (like doll hair and twisted paper) may tear or tangle if you try to pull them loose after they are glued.

Painting eyes: On most of my designs, the eyes are a series of smaller and smaller circles. One CAN paint these with a paint brush, but it's far easier and faster to "stamp" them with round objects. I generally use an old pencil with the eraser worn down flat for the largest (white) circle.

For the next sized (blue-or other eye color) circle, I use a newer pencil with a smaller eraser. For the next sized (black circle) I use the handle end of a large paint brush and I use a toothpick end for the small white dot.

The colored circles can be centered on the bottom of the white circle, or can be slightly to one side. The white dot should be off center in the black circle.

To stamp the circles: dip the round object in paint and WITHOUT WIPING ANY PAINT OFF stamp once, smoothly, to make the complete circle. If you want an oval eye, stamp the white circle twice, overlapping one above the other. PRACTICE STAMPING ON PAPER FIRST to get a feel for how much paint to use and what object you have that will make which sized circles.

Make sure you LET EACH CIRCLE DRY COMPLETELY before you stamp the next color. If you are in a hurry, dry with a hair dryer on low.

When the dots are all stamped and dry, draw a line as shown with a fine tip, permanent, black marker. This suggests both eye lid and lashes, and adds character and expression to the face. Experiment on paper. The length and slant of the line can really change the expression.

"Tying" bows. Bows are used on many craft items. For bows made from narrow materials, that are a reasonable size to handle, I just tie a bow like I was tying my shoes. But if the material is wide (more than about an inch) or if the bow is very big or small, the following method is easier and will produce a flatter, better looking bow:

Cut the material to be used the appropriate length. Cut ends straight or on a slant as desired. Overlap the ends as shown below. Bring the middles of all pieces together and pinch them together into a bow shape. Tie them together at the center point. Pull the ends downward and arrange the "bow" until you are pleased with the shape. If ends aren't quite straight, trim slightly.

About my patterns: In most of my designs I try to suggest many options. I do this because that is the way I like to craft. I've probably never followed a whole pattern exactly in my life (I cook the same way too, never follow recipes exactly). I really encourage you to "personalize" the designs as suits you.

IF, HOWEVER, the options confuse (or annoy) you, just ignore them and use the first choice given.

About copyrights: My designs ARE copyrighted. But you have permission for production for your personal use. I even give permission for production for LIMITED, LOCAL SALES provided you are not overlapping my sales area of central AZ. Please give me credit for the designs if asked.

Do not, however, produce to wholesale or sell nationally. The pattern may NOT be reproduced, except for your personal use.

http://craftycollege.com/webofangels/Pnangl.htm

Lace/Ribbon Angels

What you need:

•craft ribbon (fabric laces work too) 1 1/2 - 2 " wide

•SMALL ribbon roses

•1/8-1/4 " ribbon for bow

•1/4" pom-pom for head

•fastener (to wear as pin, or additional ribbon to hang from tree)

•glue gun and/or Tacky glue

What you do:

1.Of course you can use any size ribbon and adjust the size, the angel on your left is made of wall paper, so don't be to choosey, just make one up and see what you think. I have made them using 5" lace and added hair. (If you use fabric you will probably have to use a stiffener.)

2.For the 1 1/2 - 2 " Angel:

small_arrow.gif (868 bytes) Measure off 5 " of ribbon for the skirt/body

small_arrow.gif (868 bytes) Measure off 2 - 2 1/2" pieces for wings.

3.Fan fold the body ribbon (1/8 - 1/4 " folds). Glue with Tacky glue at one end. Fan fold the wing pieces the same way, putting a small line of glue in the center of each.

4.When glue is dried, set one of the wing halves on each side of the body piece (so that about half of it extends above the body piece) and attach with glue gun.

5.The Pom-Pom head will be glued in between the wing pieces. Now, just make a little bow or ribbon twist that will cover where the head/wings/body joins and glue in place.

6.Add the ribbon rose on top of that. Turn your pin/decoration over and glue the pin or a 5 " strip of ribbon (folded to make a hanger) to the back. Both of these angels were also sprayed with a aerosol glitter, but that is not necessary. Adjust the folds and needed.

7.Most of my angels were done with white ribbon lace, but these were the two that I had out where I could scan them.

8.They truly are easy to make, sorry that my description sounds vague, but maybe with the scan you can figure it out.

http://pinksunrise.com/craft/ribbonangels.htm

Angelito fabric

Hello friends this time going to draw a cute little angel fabric, very original and easy to perform, since the steps to make this little angel is very decorative fabric for home, and we can do it in different colors, and better than give aspecial gift and made by your own hands. To make this little angel will need fabric cloth, hair halter, lace, cotton wool for stuffing wings, face, scissors, needle and thread, accessories to decorate the angelito.A then you can find angelmolds to print free and so start to make this sweet little angel fabric all made mano.Si you want to have morebeautiful designs for how to make a fabric angel, do not miss the links that will give you at the end of this step by step.

Angelito fabric

How to make a fabric angel

STEPS

How to make a fabric angel