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Sewing Projects
allpeoplequilt.com
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Proverbs 31:13 She seeketh wool, and flax,
and worketh willingly with her hands.
Proverbs 31:19 She layeth her hands to the spindle,
and her hands hold the distaff.
Proverbs 31:21 She is not afraid of the snow for her household:
for all her household are clothed with scarlet.
Proverbs 31:24 She maketh fine linen, and selleth it;
and delivereth girdles unto the merchant.
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APRON PATTERN
I made my own pattern. And before you give up, it is much easier than you think. Especially on a project like this. The biggest tip I have is to use a cut on the fold when you can, or fold the paper when you trace the design. That way it is symmetrical. I was going to invest in the time to figure out how to make this a printable pattern, but that will have to be for another day.
My pattern measurements are as follows:
Top: 3 inches
Center Line (on the fold): 16 1/2 inches
Side: 6 3/4 inches
Bottom curve: 8 inches
Once you've measured out your strainght lines, it is easy to connect them with curved lines.
My pocket pattern was very basic. You could get as creative as you would like with the front pocket.
Cutting:
Cut 2 pieces of apron pattern, out of 2 coordinating fabrics.
-Cut 2 pieces of pocket pattern, out of 2 coordinating fabrics (or the same).
-Waist tie: cut 1 piece of 25 x 3 inches
-Neck tie: cut 1 piece of 15 x 4 inches
-Ruffle: cut 1 piece of 40 x 3 1/2 inches
Construction:
Step 1: The Pocket
http://creatingbycami.blogspot.com/search/label/Child%27s%20Apron%20Tutorial
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Those Sewing Notions
One of the joys of quilting is that the supplies needed can be as simple as scissors, needle, and thread, or more complex with specialty tools designed for a specific purpose. There are literally hundreds of items to choose from to make quilting tasks easier, more accurate, or more fun. Whether you’re a gadget-lover who wants every tool, or a minimalist looking to acquire the basics, knowing what the tools are, what to use them for, and why they’re useful is essential to quilting success. Once you've picked your fabrics and you're ready to start a quilting project, it's a good idea to collect the tools and materials you’ll need in one easy-to-access
FABRIC
The best fabric for quilt making is 100% cotton because it minimizes seam distortion, presses crisply, and is easy to quilt. Most projects call for a little extra yardage to allow for minor errors and slight shrinkage. For more information on choosing fabrics for your projects,
Rotary-cutting tools have revolutionized quilting because their round blades cut strips, squares, triangles, and diamonds more quickly, efficiently, and accurately than scissors can.
Cutting Mats
Always use a rotary cutter with a cutting mat specifically designed for it. In addition to protecting your work surface, the mat helps keep the fabric from shifting while you cut. Start with a 17x23" mat marked with a 1" grid, hash marks at 1/8" increments, and 45-degree and 60-degree angles.
Acrylic Rulers
For making perfectly straight cuts with a rotary cutter, choose a ruler of thick, clear plastic. Many sizes are available; a good size to start with is a 6x24" rectangular ruler marked in 1/4" increments.
Scissors
Use one pair for fabric and another for paper and plastic.
Marking Tools
There are many products available for marking sewing lines on fabric pieces or quilting designs on a quilt top. Marks made with special fabric markers are easier to remove after sewing and quilting. With any marking tool, work with a sharp point to get a fine, yet visible line
Template Plastic
A template is a pattern made from extra-sturdy material so you can trace around it many times without wearing away the edges. To make templates for hand- or machine-piecing, we recommend easy-to-cut template plastic. This slightly frosted plastic comes in sheets about 1/16" thick.
Iron and Ironing Board
Pressing seams ensures accurate piecing.
Sewing Machine
Any machine with a straight stitch and well-adjusted tension (not too tight or too loose) will work for piecing. If your machine has poor stitch quality, before making any other adjustment, lift the machine’s presser foot and rethread the machine.
Thread
For machine piecing, use 50-weight, 100% cotton thread. If you find your thread breaking, try a new spool; old thread can become brittle and lose elasticity. Hand-quilting thread is stronger and thicker than sewing thread and shouldn't be used in the sewing machine. For machine quilting, use 100% cotton machine-quilting thread, cotton-wrapped polyester quilting thread, or fine nylon monofilament thread.
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Machine Needles
The preferred sewing-machine needle for woven cotton fabrics is called a “sharp.” Sizes 75/11 and 80/12 are good choices for piecing, quilting, and binding most quilts. Use a smaller needle (70/10) if you’re piecing tightly woven batiks and a larger needle (90/14) for flannels. Dull needles can cause skipping or uneven stitches so it’s a good idea to insert a fresh needle at the start of every project.
Hand Needles
For hand appliqué, most quilters like fine quilting needles. For hand quilting, use a “between” or quilting needle, which is a short needle with a small eye. Common sizes are 8, 9, and 10; size 8 is best for beginners
Quarter-Inch Foot Foot
With this foot and the needle in the standard position, the edge of the foot serves as the seam guide.
Walking Foot
This sewing machine accessory helps keep long, straight quilting lines smooth and pucker-free.
Pin
For piecing, fine glass-head pins, which allow you to press fabric pieces with pins in place and not melt the pins' heads. Use safety pins to hold the quilt top, batting, and backing layers together during machine quilting.
Pincushions
Pincushions are available in numerous styles, from the standard tomato shape so many of us are familiar with, to wrist, magnetic tabletop, and even decorative pincushions. Select a style that’s easy for you to use. Some computerized machines may have problems with magnetic pincushions placed on or near the computer display screen. Check your machine manual for specific warnings. The strawberry-shape needle cushion filled with emery often attached to a tomato-shape pincushion is an important aid in keeping your needles sharp and tarnish-free. Run hand-sewing needles through the emery cushion before using them to remove any slight burrs, nicks, or residue.
http://www.allpeoplequilt.com/techniques/basics/basic-supplies-visual-guide_ss17.html
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TISSUE COVER
free-motion quilting
practice from
alderwoodquilts.com
Start with 3 pieces of fabric– approximately 8”x9”. The measurement doesn’t have
to be exact because it will be trimmed smaller. The main fabric is on top– right side
up. The contrasting fabric will be the lining– placed on the bottom– right side down.
The sample shown uses a scrap of flannel fabric for batting. This allows for a quilted
look without a ing a lot of bulk. Place the flannel between your main and contrast
fabrics as shown in fig. 1.
Time for practice! Take this opportunity to practice your free-motion quilting skills.
Fig. 1 You can also experiment with decorative threads an decorative stitches. Try
writing, “Bless You”, or your name. HAVE FUN! Machingers Gloves , shown in fig.2,
make machine quilting much easier. With only a light pressure, the Machingers grip
the fabric and allow you to move your piece freely without a ed strain to your
wrists and shoulders. Just the finger tips have the gripping surface, and the rest of
the glove “breathes”. Machingers are available on www.alderwoodquilts.com.
Cut your quilted piece to measure 6”x7”. Cut 2 pieces of contrast fabric 2”x6” as
shown in fig.3.
Fig. 2 To make the contrast binding: press the strips in half, lengthwise, to mark the
center. Then press the sides into the center (fig.4 to ). Press in half (fig.4 bot-
tom)
Encase the 2 short edges with the contrast binding and stitch close to the edge.
Finish the long edges as desired– the example shows a zig-zag stitch. Fig.5.
Bring the 2 bound edges together so they just meet– right sides together. Sew the
2 sides with 1/2” seam. You may want to reinforce the seam at the center or sew
the seam twice. Fig.6
Turn the tissue cover right side out. Tack the seams on each side to the bottom of
Fig. 3
the tissue holder, only catching the lining fabric. This hides the seam when the
tissues are placed inside. Fig. 7.
Fig. 4
Fig. 5 Fig. 6 Fig. 7
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NUMBER TWO PATTERN FOR TISSUE HOLDERS AT http://craftapalooza.typepad.com/crafted/2006/09/lifting_the_ton.html
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So, for my version of the tissue holder, I’ve cut a template that’s 6 inches x 7 inches. Why inches you Aussies ask? My cutting matt and quilt ruler work inches so it’s just easier to go with inches.
Pick your outer fabric, trace and cut out slightly larger than the template. I also like to use a midweight fabric, just a personal preference. I also like to make more than one at a time, it’s quicker.
Next up, I usually line my holders with a 100% linen in a cream colour. Don’t cut your lining just yet, grab yourself some double-sided fusible interfacing, place your outer fabric pieces onto this and iron them in place. Let the fabric cool and then place these outer pieces onto your inner lining fabric. Iron away. Make sure you iron the edges well.
Now, grab your template, pinking shears or your rotary blade and cut out the 6″ x 7″.
Next up, add some trim to the 6″ long edges. Be creative. Or don’t add any trim at all, up to you. You can at this point place your trim so it hides the pinking shear edge, if you have pinking sheared. You don’t necessarily have to use pinking shears as the fabric is fused it shouldn’t fray too much, maybe a little at the beginning.
Find the centre point on the 7inch edge and mark on the inside with chalk. Then fold in your 6inch edges to meet this point and pin in place.
Sew across the short edges. I like to oversew the opening to strengthen the stitching.
Trim any excess fabric from the seams and cut your corners at diagonals.
Turn out the tissue holder and push out the corners.
Voila. Completed holder. Easy peasy
FOR PICTURES GO HERE:
http://whipup.net/2006/09/28/tissue-holder-tutorial/
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FROM EHOW A TISSUE HOLDER
How to Sew a Cloth Tissue Holder for Your Purse
1
Measure a 7 x 5 ½ inch square on a sheet of typing paper. Cut the shape out. This will be your tissue holder pattern. Label the pattern so when you store it, so you will remember what it is for and can reuse it. When you want to cut several tissues holders at one time it is a good idea to use a cutting table with a rotary blade, cutting mat and straight edge using the strip quilt method of cutting. Measure the width of the fabric and cut a strip. Then take the strip and cut the lengths. You can cut both pieces of fabric at once with this process by placing one piece of fabric on top of the other. This makes the task go faster.
2
Select two coordinating fabrics. Iron the fabric. The project takes only a few square inches of fabric making this is a perfect project to use leftover remnant fabrics. Specialty fabrics are ideal because they are bright and colorful and have fun motifs. A cat pattern is ideal for a cat lover. The choice of fabric can personalize the tissue holder making it a fun gift. Using the pattern cut two pieces of fabric one from each pattern.
3
Place top side of the fabric together and pin the short edge (5 ½ inch) sides together. Sew a ½ inch seam from short edge on each side.
4
Turn the tissues holder right side out and iron.
5
Fold the finished edges towards the center and then pin the raw edges together. The folds measure 1 ½ from the long edge and should come together in the center of the tissue holder. Sew a ½ inch seam from the short edge.
6
Turn the tissue holder right side out. Use a ruler to push the fabric into place in each corner. Place tissues into the tissue holder.
Read more: How to Sew a Cloth Tissue Holder for Your Purse | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_2337635_sew-cloth-tissue-holder-purse.html#ixzz266pq44kA
Read more: How to Sew a Cloth Tissue Holder for Your Purse | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_2337635_sew-cloth-tissue-holder-purse.html#ixzz266olEjXF
cloth tissue holder makes a practical gift and is simple to make. The tissue holder fits the purse sized tissues packs. The cover beautifully protects the tissue packs from the wear and tear of a woman’s purse. They can be created in minutes with a small amount of fabric so they are idea for party favors for women’s events. They make an inexpensive item to sell at bazaars and craft shows.
Read more: How to Sew a Cloth Tissue Holder for Your Purse | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_2337635_sew-cloth-tissue-holder-purse.html#ixzz266pf89KC
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COVERED NOTEBOOK
http://twopeasinapoddesigns.com/2010/11/very-easy-and-low-tech-covered-notebooks\\
VERY EASY and low tech Covered Notebooks…
Posted on November 15, 2010 by Trish
For several years in a row, the Two Peas have crafted trinkets and sold them locally giving the proceeds to our local Children’s Hospital. One of the more popular items we made was covered notebooks. Super easy to do make, quick and very pretty. One year they made a huge stack and the notebooks themselves were delivered to ‘tween and teen patients at the hospital.
Here’s what you’ll need:
Composition Notebooks like this one (We found these at our local discount store for 50¢ each)
Ribbons
Scrap book embellishments
Glue – we used Elmers school glue
Old paint brush
Fabric Scraps
1) First, cut the fabric for the cover. Cut your fabric 2″ larger than the cover on the top, bottom and side but even with the edge of the black spine. Clip your corners as needed to get them to lay down nice and smooth.
Once you have cut to proper size, apply your glue on the cover and use your paint brush to spread the glue evenly. DON’T use too much or your fabric will just be all wet from the glue. Just use enough to give it a good even coat. Lay your fabric onto your cover and smooth it. I used a ruler edge to smooth it and get out any bubbles. Once you have the front smooth, then open your cover up carefully and apply some glue along the inside cover at the top, bottom and outer edge and wrap your cover fabric around and secure with the glue.
2) Next, cut a piece of fabric for the inside cover. This piece will be folded under 1/2″ on all edges and will fit evenly to the center, covering your raw edges of the fabric from the cover you wrapped around to the inside. You only need to press under your top, bottom and outer edge. You can leave the edge along the spine raw. It will be covered later.
I used my iron to press my edges of the inside fabric under. You could also stitch the folded edges under with a pretty decorative stitch if you wanted to add some more detail. Next, apply your glue and using your paint brush, smooth it until it has an even coat. Secure your inside cover fabric piece in place and smooth.
3) Add your ribbon. I used several pieces of ribbon layered together. First, lay your ribbon on the inside and wrap to the front as pictured. Determine your length and cut. I glued the ribbon layers together (you could also sew them) and glued them to the inside spine of my notebook first, covering the raw edge along the spine.
Next, I wrapped my ribbon around to the front, again covering my raw edges along the spine. I glued the ribbon in place on both ends leaving the center unglued so I could tie it.
4) Last, I added some of my scrapbook embellishments to the cover.
These are fun for the kids to do because with a little help, they can do most of this project themselves. It would be a great idea for a child to make as a gift for a grandparent or teacher for the holidays.
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TABLE TOPPER FOR PICNICS
I made a table topper for our dining room table. You can adapt this to make a doll quilt or a table runner by adjusting the size. You can also do this in all kinds of bright colors for a spring /Easter table top.
http://twopeasinapoddesigns.com/2010/01/sew-it-up-sunday-love-on-a-limb/
Materials besides the usual sewing machine and other doo-dads:
Doll blanket : 6 qty of 6.5″ squares of varying fabric, 1/4 yard of flannel, 1/4 yard of backing fabric, scraps for applique. (assemble square to lay 2 x 3). You can increase the size as needed.
Table Runner: 15 qty of 6.5″ squares of varying fabric, 1/2 of yard of flannel, 1/2 yard of backing fabric, scraps for applique. (assemble squares to lay 3 x 5) You can increase the size as needed.
Table Topper: 36 qty of 6.5″ squares of varying fabric, 1 yard of flannel, 1 yard of backing fabric, scraps for applique (assemble squares to lay 6 x 6) You can increase the size as needed.
If you are quilter, forgive me for what you are about to read. I fudge all the way through this project. I’m a mother of 3, a baby who is on the go and my sewing time is limited. I make no promises with this tutorial…give it your best shot. I’m just sharing how I do it to get the look without all the work. Sew at your own risk.
The directions are the same essentially for each item – the doll blanket, table runner or table topper. You can expect the table topper to take roughly two nap times to complete. What? You need that in real time you say? Sorry…about 4 hours or less. You can expect the other two to take substantially less time than that.
1.Cut your squares. {my sample shown here has used mostly Moda’s french general fabrics with a few others thrown in – I think they are perfect for this “season of love” we are in}
2.Lay out all your squares until you get them in the design order you like. If you’ve never “quilted” before…we are going to sew these in rows.
3.With right sides together sew the square from your top row, far left to the neighboring square with 1/4″ seams. Press your seams open.
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1/4" seams, press open
4.With right sides together using 1/4″ seams, sew the next square on and continue until your entire top row has been sewn together with all of your seams pressed open.
5.Repeat for the rest of your rows.
6. Take your top row of squares and with right sides together, pin your second row to the top row. You see where we are going with this?
⎯
As you sew your rows together, be sure your seams are staying open. It's easy for them to flip closed as you sew. When you get your rows together, you should be able to press your seams open.
7. Sew each row to the next and so on until your top is completely assembled.
{applying your applique}
Once your top is complete, you are going to sew on your applique picture of the birds with their heart on a limb. Click here to download a pdf of the applique pattern pieces Love on a Limb
For the doll blanket, you will cut out 2 birds, 2 beaks, 2 wings, one limb, and 3 hearts of varying sizes. You can place the scene in the center of your blanket.
For the table runner, cut out 4 birds, 4 beaks, 4 wings, 2 limbs, and 6 hearts – 2 large, 2 medium, 2 small. You can place them at either end of the runner.
For the table topper, cut out 8 birds, 8 beaks, 4 limbs, and 12 hearts – 4 large, 4 medium, 4 small.
I didn’t really give you the heart pattern – remember from elementary school how you fold your paper (fabric) in half, draw your half a heart and cut? You can figure out that part, right?
You will also need to cut some ribbon. One that will loop over your limb and one to tie into a bow.
I use a little stitch witchery to “glue” my applique pieces all down so they don’t move while I’m stitching. Place your bird beaks a little under your bird to hold them on better. Place your wing on your bird, birds on their limb and your hearts all together.
Take your one piece of ribbon and BEFORE you “glue” or stitch your limb down, run your ribbon behind the limb. Stitch all your applique pieces on. I used both a straight stitch and a zig zag stitch and leave all my edges raw for that vintage look. I looped my ribbon over the limb, sewed it down and then put a few stitches through the center of the ribbon bow to hold it together.
That’s it. Be patient. I found that applying all of these appliques to the table topper took as much time as piecing the top. If you have any questions – zip me a note! But, be creative. This is just the basic idea.
8. Next, lay your completed top on top of your flannel. Typically, in quilting, you use quilt batting. Since I was using this on my table I didn’t actually want all the loft that quilting creates. I wanted to have some heft to it and lay flat on my table and so I choose to use flannel.
9. You want to make sure you have both layers pulled taut and everything smooth. Pin your layers together and cut your flannel the same size as your top.
10. Quilters – close your eyes. You won’t like this a bit. I didn’t quilt the top at all. Instead, being lazy and needing to finish quickly, I simply did some decorative random stitching around the top to hold the layers of flannel and the top together. You will see my random stitches in some of the photos.
11. Next, the backing. Being cheap and thrifty – I had a new bed sheet that I bought on clearance for pennies. I used that for my backing. This isn’t a blanket (well, for the table top / runner at least) where you will see both sides because it’s flat on your table so if you can use some inexpensive plain fabric – that works great for your budget!) Lay your top onto your backing fabric and cut to size.
12. Pin all 3 layers right sides together and sew around all sides using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Leave an opening about 8″ long for turning. I know, I know…this is not how to quilt. We are cheating – remember?! Who has time for a binding? The baby is waking up soon!
13. Turn your table top right side out. Press and make your edges all nice and crisp.
14. Now, our “binding” is really just a top stitched border. I go around twice. It’ll do. Be sure you have your opening securely closed.
Well, there you have it. A doll blanket, table runner or table topper with some sweet little applique. Pretty and nobody will know you totally fudged the whole quilting process – well, except for quilters who are cursing my name I imagine after reading this (tee! hee!)
Next month’s {sew it up sunday} project will be some softies. They are so much fun – I’ve been collecting some great beaded necklaces to adorn mine….you’ll love this little project!
Hope you enjoyed this one – please share and link back to me. Leave me a comment and let me know so I can come visit you too! Don’t forget, I do have a few kits available in my etsy shop for this project.
AND when you’ve finished your project – go click over there =>>> in the sidebar on my Flickr page. I have a group for Sew It Up Sunday projects. I’d love to see what you come up with!
And check out all the other goodies at Get Your Craft on on Today’s Creative Blog
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How to Tie a Perfect Bow
By Debbie Colgrove, About.com Guide
•Use a length of ribbon which will be long enough for the bow you want to create.
•Find the center of the length of ribbon.
•Create a loop on both sides of the center of the ribbon.
•Cross the loops over each other to create an X.
•Tie the bow by bringing the back loop forward through the opening under the X.
•Twist the center and tails so the right side of the ribbon is exposed.
•Pull ribbon loops to tighten bow. Pull the tails to shorten the loops and repeat tightening the bow if desired to adjust the size of the bow.
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How To Sew A Simple Sachet
By Debbie Colgrove, About.com Guide
Here's a simple project that makes a great little gift or package decoration.
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: 20 minutes
Here's How:
1.You will need: •A piece of fabric (4" by 10")
•A piece of ribbon
•scissors
•Potpourri
•Needle and thread
•Optional- lace and trim or decorations
2.Fold the fabric, wrong sides together, to measure 4" by 5".
3.Stitch together the 5" raw edges to form a seam on each side. Use a 1/2" seam allowance.
4.Turn under the top edge, 1/4" and 1/4" again, towards the wrong side.
5.Stitch the hem into place. Sew optional trim to the top hem if desired.
6.Turn right side out.
7.Lightly stuff the pouch with potpourri.
8.Close the pouch by tying a ribbon tightly around the top, leaving 1/2" to 1" of the pouch above the ribbon.
9. Tie the ribbon in to a bow. Attache optional decorations if desired.
Tips:
1.If your stitches are not tight, put the potpourri inside a piece of nylon stocking before putting it in the pouch.
2.Attach lace to the top hem to dress up the sachet.
3.Glue a fabric flower to the bow, for a decorative appearance.
4.One year the kids went nuts making these and I ran out of potpourri. My solution --- I let them use some of the old potpourri from the bowls in the house but it had lost its "zip." I dug out the Avon samples, and they added a perfume pad to the ones that needed "zip."
5.You can vary the size and scent of these sachets to your liking.
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How to Sew: Sew a Curtain
with Kay Porczak
Sewing a curtain isn't hard if you know how to approach it. Watch this About.com video to
Transcript:How to Sew: Sew a Curtain
Hi, I'm Kay Porczak, co-owner of Picking Daisies Modern Fabrics in San Luis Obispo, California. I'm here today for About.com to show you how to sew a curtain.
Supplies for Sewing a Curtain
To do this you will need fabric, coordinating thread, a seam guide, a sewing machine, a tape measure, and scissors. In general, a curtain should be 1½ times the width of your window, so you'll want to begin by measuring the window you want to dress.
Instructions for Sewing a Curtain
Once you have the dimensions of your window, you need apply that to your fabric. The width of the fabric should be the width, plus one half of the window. You also need to add an extra 3½ inches to the heighth of your fabric and two more inches to the width to allow for hemming. It's now time to begin working with our fabric. Depending on the type of material you've chosen, you may or may not want to pre-wash. Your best bet is to refer to a fabric guide before getting started. We've selected 100 percent quilt-weight cotton for our curtain. I'm going to begin by placing my fabric right-side down and folding the top edge of my curtain one half inch under.
Pressing Hems When Sewing Curtains
I need to press my hem now with my iron to hold it in place before taking it to the sewing machine. You can also pin it in place if that makes the sewing a bit easier for you. Now, I'm going to sew the top hem one-quarter-inch in from the folded edge of the fabric. There's more to do with the top of the curtain, so if it looks a little unfinished don't worry. We need to work on the other sides first, before we get back to the top. Now I'm going to hem the remaining three sides of my curtain.
More Instructions for Sewing Curtains
Let's start with the bottom of the curtain. I'm going to fold it up one-half inch and press it in place. Then I'm going to fold it one-half-inch and press it again. Now it needs to be sewn with the stitching one-quarter inch from the inside of the top fold. You will need to repeat these steps exactly for the remaining two sides of the curtain. Once that's done, go back to the top, fold it in two inches, press, and pin it in place. Sew it one-half inch from the bottom of the fold you just made. This will become your channel for the curtain rod. Once finished, go ahead and hang your newly sewn curtain in the window. It's just that easy!
Thanks for watching. To learn more, visit us on the web at About.com.
http://video.about.com/sewing/How-to-Sew--Sew-a-Curtain.htm
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Plain Skirt
First, determine who’s wearing this skirt. Measure their waist and then add 75% to it to determine the width. I made this one for my daughter and her waist is 20”. So, I cut the width to be 35”. The length of the skirt will depend on where you want it to fall. I suggest at least knee length. Once you decide on a length, add 1.5” . So, my rectangle is 35” x17”.
http://www.favequilts.com/Quilted-Wearables/Bookworm-Skirt/ml/1
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A Place for Your Glasses (Glasses Holder)
For pictures go to:
http://www.thehobbyroomdiaries.com/2012/01/place-for-your-glasses.html#
Here's something I struggle with: I feel compelled to volunteer for everything that comes my way if I have the skill to do it, whether I actually want to or not. Teaching Sunday School, preschool edition? Been there. Joining our HOA's Newsletter Committee? Done that. Tiling a friend's kitchen? Yep, there's another one. Don't get me wrong, I chip in with a smile on my face (because no one wants a bad attitude volunteering to help) and I have gotten better at saying no when I really don't want to do something.
I get this from my mom. I think she has now repainted the inside of their church in its entirety and once famously said that she would rather re-roof a person's house than take them a casserole. I imagine she is hoping no one ever takes her up on it.
So when my mother-in-law mentioned several years ago that she couldn't find any eyeglasses cases that were soft AND big enough to hold huge sunglasses, I automatically drove down to the fabric store to rectify the situation. I wasn't a very experienced seamstress back then, but I did the best I could. As a non-crafty person, she was thrilled and totally impressed with her new accessories. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it), she just lost one of the eyeglasses cases, so, you guessed it, I made some new ones.
Here are instructions to make your own quilted soft glasses case. It's pretty easy and these are basic, so there's lots of room to make this your own. I lined these with fleece, but some flannel or even a microfiber cleaning cloth would make a great dual-purpose lining. To make this a little more sturdy, use some Pellon or Timtex interfacing or a piece of craft foam.
Gather your materials:
1/4 yard fabric each outside and lining
coordinating thread
button
round elastic cord
sewing needle
paper, pencil, ruler and scissors
rotary cutter and mat
sewing machine
1. Make a template. When folded, mine was 7 inches long and 3 3/4 inches wide (my MIL favors large sunglasses), so adjust yours accordingly. Since it's basically a square, I am going to let you do this one on your own, I know you can do it. Add a flap, make sure the whole thing is square/even and cut out the template.
2. Stack the lining and outside fabrics and lay the template on top and center on your cutting mat. The correct thing to do here is pin the template and fabrics together, but I didn't, so you can get away with that, too. Cut around the template with the rotary cutter.
3. Place fabrics right sides together. Insert a loop of elastic at the point of the flap with the loop between the layers and the ends sticking out and pin in place. The loop should be big enough to just go around your button with a little extra for what sticks out in the seam allowance.
4. Sew all edges that will be exposed on the glasses case: this would be the edge of the flap and the opposite edge that the flap folds over. Turn right side out.
5. Now it's time to do the quilting. Pin in various places to keep the fabrics from shifting and begin sewing parallel lines evenly across the fabric. Once you've gone all the way across, turn the fabric and sew evenly spaced parallel lines perpendicular to the first set of lines to form squares. One great way to do this if you are hesitant about doing this free form is to cover the fabric with strips of masking tape with just a small space between the strips. Sew between the strips, remove the tape, and repeat for the perpendicular lines.
6. Attach the button to the outside of the case. Fold the case together as it will be when finished and pin the button in place where it should go. Sew the button on with needle and thread.
7. Fold the case right sides together and finish the inside seams. Turn right side out again and you're all done.
If you make your own glasses case, I want to see how you put your twist on it, so send me some pictures. Here's what I want to know: what is your favorite thing to volunteer for and your least favorite?
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Car Trash Bag - find a pattern
SEWING TABLE
The Cubes are from Michaels craft store. They are intended to be scrapbooking organizers, but we found that if you stack them together, they are the perfect size for a table. The top is a door which ended up being the perfect size.
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Insul-Brite is a thin batting with a thin layer of foil. It will hold in heat or cold. If using it for potholders it’s recommended to use two additional layers of regular batting. I purchased mine at JoAnns.http://www.pinkchalkstudio.com/blog/one-yard-wonders-sew-along/
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Sept. National sewing month
BOOK COVER TUTORIAL
To determine the right size of your covers just wrap your notebook with a sheet of paper, mark the outer edges, add about 1 - 1,5 cm for some space and the seams.
http://moonstitches.typepad.com/photos/book_cover/tutorial11.html
Make a template of the outer layer and the inner flaps. Inner flaps' size about half the width of the notebook's boards.
Cut out relatively stiff, iron on interface
Choose your fabrics for the cover and the inner flaps. If you like to combine two different fabrics for the outer layer cut two pieces of your chosen fabric that are together exactly the size of your template - no seam allowance where the fabrics will join!
Lay out the fabrics on the interfacing, sticky side up, and make sure the two fabrics join perfectly. Use a modeling tool for gently pushing the edegs towards.
Cover with a thin cloth and iron just enough to make the fabrics edges stay on the interface.
Then flip and iron according to the instructions for the interfacing from the back side (interfacing on top).
Let cool off.
Trim the edges.Topstitch with a wide and dense stitch.Raw edges - safe and sound.After ironing the twill is being topstitched.
Mark the middle of the backside of the cover, about 3 cm from the edge end cut carefully a little slit. Cut a certain length of your cord (depends on the thickness of the notbook), form a loop and insert from the right side into this slit. Secure with tape.
Turn over and topstitch.Topstitch one long edge of the inner flaps with the blanketstitch.BLANKET STITCH Prevents the edge from fraying.
Glueing before Sewing
Lay out the inner flaps onto the wrong side of the cover, blanketstitched edge facing inwards, and then let some glue do the trick before you are going to turn it over and blanketstitch the two layers together.
Using pins to keep the inner flaps in the right position while sewing from the upper side of the cover would damage the raw edges because the pins would have to go through four stiff layers of fabric/interfacing and cause much bending/fraying.
BUTTON: About one cm from the edge sew on the button and there you have your handmade book cover!
http://www.sewingsupport.com/sewing-how-to/free-patterns-and-projects/books-and-book-covers.html
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The Book Cover-Notebook
”Cover your book or journal and show off your favorite fabric. The enclosed instructions include directions for a bookcover for a regularsize paperback book, the new larger paperback book, or a hardcover book. Ihave also included instructions for covering your own journal.By: Robin Gallagherof Two Wacky Women ™This pattern is made available at no charge for your personal use and cannotbe copied for distribution to others. The pattern is available for retail orwholesale orders at:www.TwoWackyWomen.com
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Page 2
“The Book Cover”Fabric Requirements: ❑ Two Fat Quarters of coordinating fabric. One will be for the outside ofthe cover and the other will be the bookmark and the inside. (For thejournal cover you will need one-third of a yard of each).Supplies: ❑ Scraps of batting, enough to cover the outside of your book or journal.❑ Matching thread that will be used for construction.❑ Optional: Decorative or contrasting thread to be used for the quilting ofthe outside of the cover. Miscellaneous Items:❑ Sewing Machine ❑ Walking foot ❑ Machine Needles ❑ Regular notions, pins, ruler, marking pencil ❑ Adhesive Spray or pins for basting fabric to be quilted❑ Optional: Freezer Paper for making a paper template.Book SizesPaperback Book 4 ž” x 6 ž”Large Paperback Book (5 ž” x 8”)Hardback Book[5 ū” x 8 ―”]Composition Book {7 ū” x 9 ū”}
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Page 3
Cutting DirectionsOutside1-11 ―” x 8 ―” (1-13 ―” x 10 ―”)[1-15” x 11”]{1-17 ―” x 11 ―”}Batting1-11 ―” x 8 ―”(1-13 ―” x 10 ―”)[1-15” x 11”]{1-17 ―” x 11 ―”}Inside Sleeve4-4 ―” x 8 ―”(4-5 ―” x 10 ―”)[4-4 ž” x 11”]{4–8” x 11 ―”}Lining 1-6” x 8 ―”(1-8” x 10 ―”)[1-10” x 11”]{1-4” x 11 ―”}Bookmark 1-3” x 12”(1-3” x 14”)[1-3” x 15”]{1-3” x 14”}Handles2 – 2” x 11” (2-3” x 12”)[2–3” x 13”]{2-3” x 12”}* Optional Pen Holder 1 ―” – 2 1/2”
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Page 4
Let’s begin:1. Layer your outside fabric and batting, wrong sides together. Quiltusing a crosshatch pattern. (Hint: Try using blue painters tape tomark your quilting lines. Just line up your ruler on the 45 degree lineand place your tape directly on the fabric. Simply move the tape asyou go.)2. Bookmark: Fold in half-length wise and light press to mark centerline. Open back up and fold each side to the centerline and then refold inhalf again, enclosing the raw edges. Sew close to the open edge. *Optional Pen Holder – same as bookmark.3. Handles: Fold in half lengthwise and light press to mark thecenterline. Open back up and fold each side to the centerline andthen refold in half. Repeat for the second handle.4. Lining: Using pinking sheers or a wavy rotary cutter trim the edges ofthe lining piece along the long sides.5. Sleeves: Place two pieces right sides together. Using a ―” seam, sewalong the long side. Turn and press wrong sides together. Repeat forthe second sleeve.Layer 1. Quilted Outside (face up)2. Handles (face in and place 2” from top and bottom on each side)3. Bookmark (face down 4” from left side)4. *Option Pen Holder (center on left side)5. sleeves (place fold side in on each side)6. Center the lining piece (place right side down, centered side to sideand touching top and bottom)7. Sew ―” all the way around the out side. 8. Trim the seams and corners. 9. Reach under the lining piece and turn everything right sides out.
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Page 5
Finishing Touches:Sew ―” across the loose end of the bookmark and then fray the end or sew adecorative button or charm on the bottom of the bookmark. You’ve done it! Congratulations….I hope you enjoy “The Book Cover”. Next time feel free to play with the pattern. You can easily changethe size. These make great gifts for friends and family.
Enjoy, RobinTwo Wacky Women ™4373 Ironwood Avenue, Seal Beach, California 90740Visit our website at: www.TwoWackyWomen.comCopyright©Protected 2002
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Hankie Holder
Cut a 6 1/4-by-4 3/4-inch rectangle of felt with pinking shears; fold in edges to meet at center. Sew ends with a running stitch. Backstitch an initial on a cutout heart; apply with fabric glue.
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Pocket Tissue Holder
I have been looking for something to give my my daughters teachers at the end of the school year (here in the UK they dont finish until the end of July). I have decided to make them each an Apron and a tissue holder. I thought I would post the tissue holder on here to start with it was so simple to make and only took about 10 minutes. Plus it turned out really cute.I found this simple pattern on Skiptpmylou. Anyway here is the simple tutorial!! Enjoy!
you will need two pieces of fabric 6 1/2" x 7"
With right sides together stitch 1/4 inch from the edge all around the outside of the fabric. Leave about 1-2″ opening on the LONG side for turning.
Turn and iron. Make sure that you iron the opening to the inside.
Bring short edges to the middle. Place the fabric you want on the outside in the inside. At this point you can choose whether you want the opening to over lap a little or to leave a little slit for the tissue. On mine I have over lapped it. Only because I dont really want to see the tissue on the inside.
Stitch 1/4 inch from the edge along each end.
Turn your tissue holder right side out and fill with your little pack of pocket tissue. On Skip to my lou she says to put a slit in the pack of tissues so that it is easier to get the tissues out. I in fact took the tissues out of the packaging and placed them in the holder.
I sewed some buttons across the slit of mine but only for decoration on the top slit. I thought it added a little to mine. Obviously you be creative and if you have a really cool idea please tell us about it in our comments I would love to know what you do!!
http://homemakinghoneys.blogspot.com/2009/06/tissue-holder.html
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How-To
"Oilcloth" Coasters
A layer of iron-on vinyl makes any fabric water-resistant like oilcloth.
Tools and Materials
•Sewing machine and sewing supplies
•Scraps of gingham, cut into 3 1/2-inch squares, from New York Elegant Farbrics, 212-302-4980
•Scraps of solid cotton, cut into 3 1/2-inch squares
•Iron-on vinyl, thermowebonline.com
"Oilcloth" Coasters How To:
1.With a 1/2-inch seam allowance, sew gingham onto solid cotton square.
2.Following manufacturer's instructions, press vinyl onto gingham.
3.Trim all the way around by 1/4 inch.
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king sized bed runner or throw is Dimension: 27.00" x 110.00"
Other size Descriptions: Full Size Dimension: 82 x 27. Queen Size Dimension: 92 x 27. King Size Dimension: 110 x 27.
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BED RUNNERS
If sitting on the end of the bed when putting on shoes has become the norm, a bed runner will provide an extra layer of protection for the beautiful quilt it covers. Adding pockets to a bed runner, as in the Storytime Pockets runner, gives children extra storage for their bedtime storybooks. Simply changing the size and fabric used for the bed runner will allow you to make the pocket a perfect holder for your newspaper or remote. All of the bed runners in this book are quick and easy to construct using the popular precuts found in the marketplace today. Whether using fat quarters, Layer Cakes, Turnovers, Jelly Rolls or charm squares, you will enjoy the process as well as the result! Each bed runner featured can easily be customized to fit the needs of the beds in your home. Come along with Kathy Brown, dig into your stash, grab a precut or two, and start running--bed running, that is!
http://www.123stitch.com/cgi-perl/itemdetail.pl?item=WB141304
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Before you clean your vintage quilt, you'll need to repair any rips or tears in the fabric. Spread the quilt out on a bed or on top of a sheet on the floor and examine carefully for any worn patches, tears or stains. If you are a good seamstress, repair the quilt yourself by using small stitches and thread and fabric that match the design and colors of your quilt. There are sources of vintage or period-specific fabrics to patch your quilt or reproduction vintage fabrics can be used replace damaged areas. How to Store A Quilt If you plan to store your freshly laundered quilt, be certain it is completely dry. Allow an extra 24 to 48 hours for drying before storing. One of the best ways to store a quilt is on an extra bed. Keeping the quilt flat will eliminate creases and wear on folds. Simple cover the quilt with a clean sheet or bedspread. If flat is not an option, store the quilt in a cotton or muslin bag or in an acid-free box. Do not store in the attic or basement where moisture and temperature levels will fluctuate. Before you fold the quilt, use acid-free tissue paper as padding to prevent sharp creases. You can also roll your quilt around an acid-free tube and slip it in a cotton bag. If you are storing your quilt in a wooden box or dresser, wrap it in the acid-free tissue to avoid contact with the wood. Oils and acids in the wood can cause spotting and damage. Once a year, bring your quilt out of storage to air and to check for damage. Refolding will also prevent permanent creases and damage. Proper care of your beautiful quilt will insure it will last for generations to come. If you are don’t feel qualified to do the repairs, find a reputable quilt repair service or restoration service. They can restore your quilt or tell you if your quilt is damaged beyond repair and should be enjoyed as is. Cleaning Your Antique Quilt Vintage quilts require special care during cleaning. Do not dry clean or machine wash an heirloom piece. Dry cleaning chemicals can permanently harm old fabrics and the agitation action of a washing machine can cause fibers to shread. Begin by airing your quilt outside on a sunny day to restore freshness. To remove dust, vacuum with a nylon stocking over the end of vacuum hose and hold the hose slightly above the top of the quilt. If the quilt has beading, embroidery or appliqué, do not vacuum. You could damage the work. You can hand wash the quilt but don't feel comfortable doing it yourself search for a qualified quilt conservation or restoration service. Ask how they will clean the quilt and their level of experience. Any cleaning done to antique fabrics could damage or destroy your quilt. Based on the monetary and personal value of the quilt, you may decide to leave it as is rather than risk destroying a priceless piece of work. Hand Washing Heirloom Quilts If you feel that you quilt must be washed, begin by checking the fabric for colorfastness. Testing is simple, wet a piece of white cloth with cold water and gently rub it over each different color or fabric in your quilt. If there is any color transfer to the white cloth, don’t wash your quilt at all. Washing will result in discoloration and fading. If you have hard water or iron bacteria in your water source, you should use distilled water for washing your quilt. You don’t want to risk having minerals stain your fabric. To hand-wash, fill a deep, laundry sink or bathtub with cold water. Be certain that the sink or tub is very clean and has no residue from cleaning agents that could cause damage to the quilt. Use a liquid detergent that is gentle and free of dyes and perfumes. A liquid detergent will disperse in the water and leave less residue on the fabric. Add 1/2 cup vinegar to the water to both brighten colors and soften the quilt. Place your quilt in the water, being certain that the entire quilt gets wet. Gently move your quilt around in the water. Allow the quilt to remain in the water for about 10 minutes. Next, drain the wash water and fill the tub again with fresh water. Repeat draining and refilling the tub until the water and quilt are soap free – clear water and no suds. Drying the Quilt Proper drying is key to keeping your quilt at its best. Wet quilts must be handled gently. Pulling can break seams and cause damage. The quilt will be heavy and should be dried flat. To lift the quilt from the tub, use a white sheet to create a sling. Allow the excess water to drain than place the quilt on a bed of heavy towels. Cover with more towels and roll up to absorb water. Move the quilt to another bed of dry towels, spread out flat and allow to dry. Placing a fan in the room will help to speed the process. If you have space, place a sheet on the grass outside and spread out the quilt. Cover the quilt with another clean sheet and allow to dry. Do not dry in direct sunlight, which can cause fading, without the top sheet in place. Never suspend a wet quilt from a clothesline. This causes too much stress on seams and cause tearing and can displace batting.
http://stores.ebay.com/Vintage-Quilt-Shop/How-to-Care-for-Vintage-Quilts.html
By vintage quilt guy
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Fat Quarters are made of eight coordinating fabrics that are designed to go together in a quilt, tote or any sewing project.
Fashion Collections are made of eight coordinating fabrics that are designed to go together in a quilt, tote or any sewing project.
Creative Cuts Fun Factor Super Stax, 8 Fat Quarters:•One 18" x 21" piece of each design
•100 percent cotton
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The Creative Cuts Stax Fat Quarter Bundle is a collection of five different textured pieces. This premium quilting fabric is pre-cut and ready to sew.
Creative Cuts Stax 5pc Fat Quarter Bundle, Textured:
•Premium quilting fabric
•Collection of 5 different colors
•Size: 18" x 21"
•100 percent cotton
•Pre-cut and ready to sew
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INTERFACING:
The Pellon Woven Sew-In Interfacing is a cotton/poly sew-in interfacing for light to midweight fabrics.
Pellon Woven Sew-In Interfacing:
•Cotton/poly sew-in interfacing
•For light to midweight fabrics
•Traditional product for apparel
•Care instructions: machine wash cold; tumble dry low or dry clean
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Between the 1930s and 1960s colorful textile feedsacks offered an affordable way for women to brighten their lives, with home sewers turning them into dresses, quilts and household ware. Here are both old patterns and original designs with 12 projects featuring a range of feedsack fabrics. Designs run from beginner to advanced quilter projects and each project offers a comprehensive list of patterns, step-by-step piecing instructions, and more. A perfect, different pick for any library offering needlework ideas and history.
In their heyday between the 1930s and 1960s, colorful textile feedsacks offered an economical way for women to brighten their lives. Quilters and home-sewers scrambled to the feed store to get the prettiest sacks to turn into dresses, quilts and other items.
Sugar Sack Quilts celebrates this delightful and resourceful art form. More than reproductions of old patterns, the quilts featured here are original designs that retain that cozy, old-fashioned charm.
Description: Kansas City Star Feedsack Secrets Book- Fashion from Hard Times. The poverty of the Depression era and the fabric shortages during World War II made feedsacks highly important to the quilter during the 1930's and 40's. Here is a colorful, fun, and fascinating ride through a great period of fabric history, with color photos of fabrics, period advertisement and cartoons, and bits of trivia about this unique source of fabric. 144 pages in a soft cover.
http://www.createforless.com/Kansas+City+Star+Feedsack+Secrets+Book/pid175243.aspx
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THE HOOP WALL BAG BY SEW DAILY: PATTERN BELOW AND ON INTERNET
© INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not
forwarding or distributing this document interweavestitch.com
PAGE 1 OF 12
wall pocket
embroidery
hoop
Display your favorite fabrics
while storing your sewing
notions in these simple-to-make
wall pockets. Make several wall
pockets to group together for a
striking yet practical display in
your sewing space.
PROJECT
by BONNIE
FERGUSON
FALL 2011
WEB PROJECT
FABRIC
— 5⁄8 yd (57.5 cm) each of 2 different woven
cotton print fabrics OR one 17½" (44.5 cm)
square of each fabric for the Scissors Stor-age Hoop (group A)
— 1⁄2 yd (46 cm) each of 2 different woven
cotton print fabrics OR one 15½" (39.5 cm)
square of each fabric for the Pen/Pencil
Storage Hoop (group B)
— 1⁄3 yd (30.5 cm) OR one 9" (23 cm) square of
1 woven cotton print fabric for the Needle
Storage Hoop (C)
FOR EXPLANATIONS OF
TERMS + TECHNIQUES USED
CLICK HERE FOR OUR
SEWING BASICS ONLINE
OTHER SUPPLIES
— Coordinating sewing thread
— ½ yd (45.5 cm) of low- to medium-loft
fusible fleece
— 1 embroidery hoop in each of the following
sizes: 14" x ¾" (35.5 x 2 cm), 12" x ¾" (30.5 x
2 cm), and 7" x 3⁄8" (18 x 1 cm)
— Removable fabric marking pen
— Craft glue (optional; see Notes)
— Embroidery Hoop Wall Pocket templates on
pages 5–12
© INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not
forwarding or distributing this document interweavestitch.com
PAGE 2 OF 12
FALL 2011
FINISHED SIZES
— Scissors Storage Hoop: 141⁄2" (37 cm)
diameter; Pen/Pencil Storage Hoop: 121⁄2"
(31.5 cm) diameter; Needle Storage Hoop:
71⁄2" (19 cm) diameter
NOTES
— For explanations of terms and techniques,
see Sewing Basics at interweavestitch.com/
sewingbasics.
— Fusible fleece helps the fabric remain firm
in the hoop when pulling notions in and out.
If you don’t plan to change out the fabric,
place a little craft glue around the outside
edge of the inside hoop before placing the
fabric on top.
— When hanging the hoops on your wall, place
a nail in the wall that corresponds with the
top of the hoop (the section that contains
the tightened wing nut). Next, place two
other nails slightly below the top nail, one
each to the right- and left-hand sides, cor-responding with the edge of the inside of the
hoop. Placing nails in this configuration will
ensure that the hoops remain stationary and
will not swing from side to side.
CUT THE FABRIC
1 For the Scissors and Pen/Pencil Storage
Hoops, cut 1 of each corresponding circle
template from each of the 2 prints in group A,
group B, and the fusible fleece (you will have
4 total fabric circles and 2 total fleece circles).
For the Needle Storage Hoop, cut 1 of the
corresponding circle templates each from
fabric C and the fusible fleece.
MAKE THE SCISSORS STORAGE HOOP
Use the Scissors Hoop circles for the following
instructions.
2 Fuse the fleece circle to the wrong side of
one print circle, following the manufacturer’s
instructions. This will become the back-ground.
3 Fold the remaining print circle (of the same
size) in half with wrong sides together and
press (this will become the pocket).
4 With the right side of the background circle
facing up, align the raw edges of the (now
folded) pocket piece with the bottom of the
background piece. Pin and baste the pocket
in place, 1⁄4" (6 mm) from the raw edges. Next,
stitch through all of the layers, 1⁄4" (6 mm)
from the raw edges.
5 Use a ruler to locate the center of the top
(folded edge) of the pocket and mark it with
a pin. On each side of the pin, measure over
11⁄4" (3.2 cm) and, with your fabric pen, draw
straight lines from the top edge to the bottom
edge, making sure the lines are parallel with
each other. Measure over 21⁄2" (6.5 cm) toward
the outer edge from each of the 11⁄4" (3.2 cm)
lines and draw two more lines in the same
manner.
6 Using coordinating thread, topstitch on
each drawn line, backtacking at each end.
Remove the pin from the center of the pocket.
You’ve now created the individual pocket slots.
7 Remove any remaining pen marks follow-ing the manufacturer’s instructions.
8 Center the fabric on the inner ring of the
corresponding-size hoop. Push the outer ring
of the hoop over the inner ring, sandwiching
the edges of the fabric between the rings.
Make sure the wing-nut section of the outer
hoop is centered at the top, above the pockets’
openings. Tighten the wing nut or screw to
secure, ensuring that the fabric remains taut.
Optional: If you do not plan to change out the
fabric, place a few dots of glue on the outer
edge of the inner ring, center the fabric on it,
then complete the assembly.
MAKE THE PEN/PENCIL
STORAGE HOOP
Use the Pen/Pencil Hoop circles for the follow-ing instructions.
9 Follow Steps 2–4 to prepare the back-ground and the pocket.
0 Use a ruler to locate the center of the top
(folded edge) of the pocket and mark it with
a pin. On each side of the pin, measure over
1⁄2" (1.3 cm) and, with your fabric pen, draw
straight lines from the top edge to the bottom
edge, making sure the lines are parallel with
each other. Measure 1" (2.5 cm) to each side
of the 1⁄2" (1.3 cm) lines and draw two more
lines. Continue measuring 1" (2.5 cm) from
each line and drawing a new line for a total
of five lines on each side of the center (ten
lines total).
- Follow Steps 6–8 to stitch each line and
finish assembling the Pen/Pencil hoop.
MAKE THE NEEDLE STORAGE HOOP
Use the Needle Hoop circles for the following
instructions.
= Fuse the fleece circle to the wrong side of
the print fabric circle following the manufac-turer’s instructions.
q Follow Step 8 to assemble the hoop.
BONNIE FERGUSON is a full-time mom to
six amazing children, who are great inspira-tions for her sewing projects. She designs and
sells patterns at fishsticksdesigns.com, and you
can check out sewing tutorials on her blog at
fishsticksandfries.com/blog.
wall pocket
embroidery
hoop
© INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not
forwarding or distributing this document interweavestitch.com
SPRING 2011 pattern
GETTING STARTED Basic techniques and terms
you’ll need to know for the pattern you have downloaded.
BUTTON + BUTTONHOLE
PLACEMENT MARKS Solid lines indi-cate buttonholes. A large open circle is
the button symbol and shows placement.
CUTTING LINES Multisize
patterns have different cutting
lines for each size.
PLACE ON FOLD BRACKET This is
a grainline marking with arrows pointing
to the edge of the pattern. Place on the
fold of the fabric so that your finished
piece will be twice the size of the pattern
piece, without adding a seam.
GRAINLINE The double-ended arrow
should be parallel to the lengthwise
grain or fold unless specifically marked
as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be
diagonal.
NOTCHES Notches are triangle-shaped
symbols used for accurately matching
seams. Pieces to be joined will have cor-responding notches.
DARTS Lines and dots mark darts.
The lines show where the stitching will
be, and the dot shows the position of the
dart point (signaling the point, at the
end of the dart, where your stitching
should end).
PATTERN DOTS Filled circles indicate
that a mark needs to be made (often on
the right side of the fabric) for placement
of elements such as a pocket or a dart
point. Mark by punching through the pat-tern paper only, then mark on the fabric
through the hole.
SLASH MARKS A dashed line (some-times appearing with pattern dots)
indicates an area to be slashed. Further
instructions for making the slash will be
included in the pattern instructions.
PATTERN SYMBOLS + MARKINGSASSEMBLING FULL-SIZE PATTERN PRINTOUT
1 | When prepar-ing to print the PDF,
make sure that you are
printing it at 100% and
that there is no scaling.
Check the settings for
page scaling (should be
“None”) and check the
preview to make sure
that you will be printing
at full size. Make sure
that the box labeled “Au-to-Rotate and Center”
is unchecked (instruc-tions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using another PDF
reader, check for similar settings).
2 | To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale,
check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square
should be 2" × 2" (5 × 5 cm).
3 | To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted
margin around each page.
4 | The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages
is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up the rows and match the
dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pages together.
Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern
is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and fol-low the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern.
LAYOUT, MARKING + CUTTING GUIDELINES
1 | Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace
the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto
the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel.
2 | If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting
two of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half,
selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this
technique is not appropriate for some fabrics, so check the
project instructions if you are unsure.
3 | Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together
as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be
cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold.
4 | Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric
with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless
a crosswise or bias grainline is present.
5 | Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric
unless otherwise noted.
6 | Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project
instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to
cut out of your fabric and interfacing.
7 | Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use
pins to secure the corners as needed.
8 | Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.
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Sewing has always been a pleasure. It makes the days go by and I always get so much accomplished, when I set my mind to it.
My first sewing experience started in high school. The attraction stuck with me, and I started making my own clothes. Later I got interested in crafts and quilts.
You can view some of my sewing and my sewing room here. We moved into a new home, so I had to change my set up. It is quite different but still I like it.
Puff Quilt Instructions
Make a simple biscuit quilt or cushion
Puff Quilts are really easy to make. You construct "puffs" or "biscuits" of fabric squares one at a time, and join them to make a whole. Most often there is no added backing or finish quilting required.
A good size for each puff is between 3 and 6 inches square. For uniformity, select a "backing" fabric to use as one side of each puff you construct. You'll also need a lot of cotton or poly fiberfill, or leftover scraps of batting for stuffing.
The most simples method is to take two squares of the same size, place them right sides together and sew around the edges as if you were making a little pillow --because that is exactly what you are doing. They don't even have to be squares. Use rectangles or circles if you want. Turn the puff inside out, stuff it loosely, and whip-stitch the open edge. Your first puff. Make some more, and whipstitch them together along their edges to make the top. Arrange them in checkerboard style, in concentric rings of color, or a random pattern.
The second method is a little more involved. You still cut two squares for each puff, but this time you'll make one about 1.5 inches larger than the other. Place them right sides together, with the larger square on top. Gather the edges of the larger square and pin them in place so that it can be sewn to the smaller piece. You'll need to take pleats in each side to take up the extra 1.5 inches. Two pleats is probably enough, make them near the middle of the square. This method gives you a little more volume to puff up when it is completed.
Sew around the edges and leave your opening to turn it right side out. It might help to sew up one pleat on the open side, because sewing two shut by hand is going to be a bit tricky. Stuff your biscuit and form any remaining fabric into the second pleat. Sew shut by hand. You'll have a thicker puff with a flat bottom. Join the puffs to each other with whip-stitching.
For a more finished look you can add a backing layer to the puff quilt. If you do this you will need to add a binding and either quilt along the lines between the puffs, or tie off each corner to hold the backing on. It's not necessary to add another layer of batting under the puffs.
Puff Cushion Example
Biscuit quilts were so named because they reminded women of something familiar; warm biscuits fresh from the oven. In much the same way, lightly puffed quilts call to mind a sense of well-being & warmth. Like baking biscuits, stitching biscuit quilts is an old-fashioned skill that is easy to master. Both kind of biscuits are made from a few simple ingredients; both are easy enough to teach children; both are appreciated by the whole family. Homemade Biscuits includes patterns & directions for several biscuit projects as well as recipes for Southern Biscuits with variations.
a fun quilt is made from individual biscuits filled with polyester stuffing. Pick your favorite colors, arrange the biscuits any way you like, and make your own puff quilt
They are comfort, maybe it's the little pillows that make up the top that attract us to them. Maybe it's the extra layer of stuffing that makes them so soft and fun to curl up in. Whatever your reasons, I hope you enjoy this pattern. You can make a small one or a chair cushion to start with
The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ladies' Work-Table Book, by Anonymous
STITCHES IN CROCHET.
Crochet has been long known, but it has only become a favorite with the fair votaries of the needle, during the last few years. It is very difficult to describe, though easy of execution, and can be applied to a variety of useful and ornamental purposes. It is most frequently adopted in working shawls, table covers, pillows, mats, slippers, carriage mats, and a great variety of other things of elegance and utility. Silk, cotton, and wool, are employed, and the work is so easy, that a moderate share of attention to details, will make an expert workman.
Stitches.—These are called plain single crochet, plain double crochet, plain stitch open crochet, and open crochet, with a variety of stitches. It is not easy to describe the manner of working crochet stitch, though it is easy of execution: perhaps the following will be found tolerably correct. Take a skein of wool, and having wound it, make a loop at one end, like the first link in a chain; through this draw another, and so on, until the chain is of the length required. Each must be made rather tight as it is drawn through its preceding loop. This forms the foundation, and the young worker may then proceed with the article she intends to make. She must pass the needle through the last loop of the[143] foundation, and catching the silk or other material from behind, draw it through and so proceed with every succeeding loop of the foundation, until the row is completed. Having thus formed the first row, she must proceed as before to form a second, and so on from right to left, and from left to right, until she has all the rows required. This is the most effectual way we know of for the learner to pursue and she will find that her work is the same on both sides, producing raised and depressed rows in alternate succession. In working she must not generally work backward and forward, but must finish each row separately.
Plain Crochet.—Make only one loop in each stitch. In making common purses in crochet, this is the stitch generally employed.
Plain Double Crochet.—Keep two loops on the needle before finishing the stitch. This stitch is more generally in use than any of the others described.
Plain Stitch Open Crochet.—This stitch is done in the following manner. To the last link of the foundation chain, crochet five stitches, which must be again crocheted in the fifth stitch of the chain. This is to be repeated to the foundation. The rest of the rows are to be done in the same way, attaching every fifth stitch to the centre one of each loop in the row preceding. This looks extremely well for purses, and it can be varied by employing two or more colors as taste or fancy may direct.
Open Crochet.—This stitch is difficult to describe; an attention to the following rules will, we hope, enable the reader to understand it. First make a chain of the length required for the foundation; then work one stitch plain, and bring the material round the needle, which must be passed through the first loop of the chain, through which bring the material, and you will thus have three stitches on[144] the needle. Through the two first of these the material must be drawn, which will leave two; through these the material must be again drawn, and that will leave one, through which you are to make one stitch plain, as at the commencement. You then put the material over the needle, and through the fourth link of the chain, and proceed as before. You will thus have one plain stitch between each two double ones, which will leave an open space.
Double Open Crochet.—This is a similar stitch, only the single stitch is omitted, and the two long stitches are made together, by passing the needle through the next loop without making a stitch. Thus you will have two long stitches and one open stitch in succession.
Treble Open Crochet.—This is exactly like the last, only making three long stitches, instead of two, before every plain stitch. It looks neat and elegant, and may have beads introduced, which produce a charming effect. The following directions will enable the novice to work with beads with freedom and accuracy. Thread the beads on a strong silk, and pass one on to the middle stitch of each of the three long ones.
This will, of course, place a bead in the centre of each square. Beads of various colors may be introduced, so as to form a diamond. A gold or polished steel one should form the centre of each diamond.
Double Stitch Crochet.—To work this you have only to take both meshes of the chain, instead of one, as in common crochet.
Plain Stitch Elastic Crochet.—Work backward and forwards, first taking one mesh of the chain, and then the other. The upper mesh must be taken first.
[145]Bead Stitch.—If you wish to work with beads, you must thread all you intend to use, before you begin to work. Then when you wish to insert a bead, no matter what the pattern is you are executing, you have only to pass a bead down to the last stitch you have worked, and to fasten it on by working the stitch as usual; but this will leave it on the wrong side; to prevent which, you must bring the crocheting thread to the front, having it on the fore finger of the left hand: by thus keeping the bead in front, and inserting the needle from the back of the stitch you are about to work, you can draw the thread through the back, and make the finishing loop in the common way: you will then find that the bead is on the right side.
Edge Stitch.—To work this stitch you are to draw a loop through the first stitch on the row, or on the round, if you work in rounds, then draw a second loop through the one last made. Thus the edge stitch is formed. It is of importance to attend to the regular working of this stitch, because if it is not done, you will lose in each row a stitch. On a round, it is not necessary to work the edge stitch; but when the work has to be turned to work round the contrary way, the edge stitch is indispensible.
A Raised Stitch.—Make this by passing the needle through, both meshes of the chain, and working two stitches instead of one, in the same space or hole.
To increase or decrease a Stitch.—In the former case, make two stitches in the mesh; and in the latter, take two stitches together as one, or miss one.
True Stitch.—This means to keep the stitches exactly over each other, when working in different colors, so as to conceal the half stitch. This must be done with care: and the more attention is paid to it, the more beautiful will the work appear.
[146]To fasten on or off.—The former is done by laying the two ends of the material contrary wise, and working a few stitches with both. The latter process is performed by drawing the material through the last stitch, which must be fastened at the back.
A Dividing Line.—The most general form is that of working two stitches up and down alternately, between the stripes in the groundings; but it can be varied according to taste.
What is called making a stitch, at the beginning and end of a row, means making one stitch of a chain before the first and after the last, which new stitches are to be crocheted in the succeeding row.
To Carry on a Thread in Double Crochet.—It is a very common thing to work a pattern in crochet, in more than one color; when this is the case, it is necessary that the colors, not required, should be so managed, as not to make loops, or stitches, at the back. To accomplish this, they must be worked in the following manner. Let the threads, that are not required, be laid along the fore finger of the left hand; and the crochet needle must be inserted in the usual manner, into the stitch; you are to let it go below the threads you are carrying on, and the thread with which you are working is to be drawn at the back, through the stitch, into which you inserted the needle or hook. Make the finishing loop as usual, which you carry over the threads, and pull through the two loops you have upon the needle. Thus you will make one stitch, and the process is to be repeated as often as your work requires it.
Joining the Threads.—In order that threads may be united neatly and properly, observe the following directions. Do not work up the thread quite to the end, but leave a small portion; then, on the fore finger of the left hand, by the end of the thread you are about to commence working with, the end to be toward the tip of the finger, the ball will of course be toward the arm; work over it for about six stitches, proceeding as you do in carrying over the threads; then by the thread you worked with, but on the same finger, and continue with the thread you have last fastened on, and work over it, in the same manner, for about six stitches. The ends are then to be cut, and you work on as usual, with the thread just joined. This is the best method we know, of making the work appear neat, and, at the same time, of securing the required degree of fineness.
To Increase a Stitch in Crochet.—The process by which this is done, is as follows. First, make the stitch as usual, then work it again from the hinder or back part of the stitch. This prevents a hole, which would otherwise occur.
To take in a Stitch.—To do this, two stitches are taken on the needle at the same time, and you work them off as one.
We have given the fullest explanation of the various stitches in crochet, that our limited space will allow; and we hope that the directions are so plain that no one will be at a loss to comprehend their meaning. But we cannot promise any votary of this delightful employment, even tolerable success, unless she will assiduously apply her own mind to the various directions. “No one can become an expert needlewoman, who does not think, and think deeply, too.”
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