Controller PAK (Save Game Memory)
The Controller PAK plugs into the controller like most other accessories and has 32 KB of memory for game saves.
Game PAK's (Game cartridges) contain the game data and also commonly the save game data. Only the Battery Holder modification is applicable. Not too many games used the battery backed SRAM option.
- 1080 Snowboarding
- Dezaemon 3D (JPN, 768Kbit)
- F-Zero X
- Harvest Moon 64
- Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time, The
- Major League Baseball featuring Ken Griffey Jr.
- Mario Golf
- New Tetris, The
- Ogre Battle 64: Person of Lordly Caliber
- Resident Evil 2
- Super Smash Bros.
- WCW/NWO Revenge
- WWF: Wrestlemania 2000
There are 2 modifications covered below:
Install Battery Holder
The battery holder allows easily changing the CR2032 battery when it dies:
+ Battery Holder is about $1.25
+ Top of the line CR2032 batteries are $3-4 each.
+ Usually lasts 10+ years
+/- This mod is barely visible, nice to confirm which PAK's have the mod but doesn't have a perfect factory appearance.
- Always seems to die when the console is in storage and all progress is lost.
FRAM Upgrade (Controller PAK only) Not Functional Yet
The second option means no more batteries:
+ Your save games will last for at least 150 years.
- It's a $15-18 chip. (Replacement for original SRAM chip is $1.25)
- The chip is Surface Mount which is trickier to solder.
Really only one of these mods should be done because the FRAM chip doesn't need the constant battery power. While similar modifications can be done to 3rd Party Controller PAKs aka Memory Cards the focus here will be Nintendo branded accessories.
Backup
The game "Perfect Dark" has probably the best built-in Controller PAK management user interface. Hold "Start" and turn on the power. If you are using a Flash Cart (64Drive, Everdrive) there may be some better options.
Battery Holder
Tools:
- Battery Holder (Mouser or Digi-Key)
- Nintendo 3.8 mm game bit/driver
- Soldering Iron
- Solder Wick
- Flux (any type)
- Needle Nose Pliers
- Dental Pick (ask your dentist or I've seen them at Target)
- Diagonal Flush Cutters (similar to these Plato 170)
I've now successfully used the following parts and technique on:
- SNES Cartridges w/SRAM
- N64 Cartridges w/SRAM
- N64 Controller PAK
Removing the Controller PAK case has a little trick to it that the piece with the Nintendo NUS-004 Sticker slides towards the connector about a 1/4", then just pick it up.
This is a fairly easy modification if you've spent any time with a soldering iron. Use solder wick, if it doesn't have flux built-in add some. The flux can be any type from a pen, a paste or a few drops of liquid flux.
The old battery usually takes just a minute with the solder wick, in most cases when enough solder has been removed the battery will fall out when the board is lifted. Really it should be that easy. If it's not try a hotter iron or more flux.
I use a battery holder by Harwin part number S8421-45R I've seen similar on ebay fairly cheap but I've purchased them from both Mouser and Digi-Key for $0.70 - $1.17 each depending on qty. The other advantage to Mouser or Digi-Key is shipping is under a week vs 3+ weeks.
Now tweak the battery holder, it's intended usage is as a surface mount part and for this mod we will be using it as a through-hole part. So two tabs need to be bent down for soldering.
On the flat side there is a small metal tab that bends down easily with needle nose pliers so it can't be seen from above.
The next step is trickier, use a metal dental pick from the bottom to bend the buried tab out enough that you can use needle nose pliers on it and point it straight down. If the metal piece comes loose from the plastic of the holder try to put it back in position. When mounted to the board it will be forced to sit correctly by soldering.
With just a little bit of adjusting the battery holder only fits in one direction (one tab is wider than the other).
Solder it into place.
The last step before reassembly is to modify the case, it was pretty easy for me with some diagonal flush cutters. The plastic is thin so sharp cutters will make a big difference.
Even with the case modified it will be a little tight, don't over tighten the screws. Double check that enough plastic was removed from the case. I did find that even after trimming the case down level the PAK would bulge 0.5mm or something really tiny.
I suggest replacing the Gamebit screws with standard screws, since the intention is to be able to change the battery might as well make it easy.
Then test it!
FRAM - I have NOT done this successfully yet.
Tools
- FRAM 32 KB (Mouser or Digi-Key)
- Nintendo 3.8 mm game bit/driver
- Soldering Iron
- Solder Wick
- Flux (any type)
Since the battery isn't needed, lets remove it first.
The old battery usually takes just a minute with the solder wick, in most cases when enough solder has been removed the battery will fall out when the board is lifted. Really it should be that easy. If it's not try a hotter iron or more flux.
Now the PCB should lay flat on your workbench which may prove helpful during the next steps.
The desoldering of the original SRAM is not for a rookie, I wanted this to just work with Solder wick like the battery. Unfortunately I had to use my Hot Air rework station to remove the SRAM.
- Use solder wick and flux to remove as much solder as possible from all of the SRAM pins.
- Consider the following options:
- Hot air rework station
- Maybe a hardware store heat gun, make sure it gets hot and has a very focused nozzle.
- Use flush side cutters to cut all of the pins
- Use solder wick and flux to remove solder and any remaining pin pieces.
- Apply solder to a single pad on the PCB.
- Position the new FRAM chip on the pad.
- Use the soldering iron to secure the FRAM to the single pad
- Check (with magnification) to verify all pins and pads line up.
- Solder the rest of the pins.
FYI: First attempt was not successful.
References/Inspiration:
http://blog.qwertymodo.com/2012/10/non-volatile-n64-controller-pak.html?m=0