P-1961 Europe Trip

April 5th, 1961

• N.Y. and aboard Queen Mary

• Fair-occasional cloudiness

Florence Taylor now lives in N.Y. so I rang her up. Later she came to see use off, bringing a bottle of champagne for a Bon Voyage gift. Helen joined us for breakfast at the Dorset and come down, also, to see us off.

The last time I was aboard the Queen Mary was some 7-8 yrs. ago and I had forgotten what a wonderful ship she is. Our cabin is adequate-in fact fairly comfortable and after we had complied with the usual formalities, filling out our declaration forms, etc., we wondered about the ship, finally landing atop the sun deck where we lay in our chairs for about an hour, sunning ourselves.

The meals on the ship are excellent and I am afraid it will be hard on Put's waistline, be he has been warned and is paying no heed-so far!

Letters from Jim and the Moncures when we arrived aboard. Very nice-especially Jim's-which made us feel quite at home.

People on board seem to be well behaved with the few exceptions one finds anywhere.

April 6th, 1961

• Queen Mary

• Rough sea, moderate to heavy swell Cloudy-Milder WNW wind

Today we reported to the immigration inspector with our passports. Took a chance on the Captain's Tote for the day (mileage in 24 hrs) and picked the correct number of miles. Got 1 pound note, 2 half crowns and 2 shillings all of which took me a little time to figure out. The initial investment was 35¢, so it was a good profit $3.43.

Wonderful entertainment this evening in the Smoking Room-International Dances and a good vocalist. A game of bingo with very fine stakes.

April 7th, 1961

• Queen Mary

• near westerly gale rough sea, heavy swells cloudy-gusts of rain, rougher than it has been

Today I passed in a quiz called "Which is Which" in which a familiar thing must be matched up with one of two meanings. The were 20 questions and imagine my surprise to find my name listed as winner. The food continues very good, and the service and attention given everywhere on board is excellent.

We take salt water baths rinsing off with fresh water from a small tub. It is most invigorating and almost as good as a swim in the ocean. Met a very interesting person* who had photos of Leeds castle in Maidstone. She lives in one of the lodges and has charge of the Castle while her husband is the caterer. She has been in the Bahamas at the residence there of her employer and had a vast fund of interesting experiences. She invited us to visit her and go through Leeds castle. It is one of three castles left in England with the original water moat + draw bridge.

*Mrs. Marjorie Borret

April 8th, 1961

• Queen Mary

• Sunny and windy aboard WSW gale, very rough sea, very heavy swell

Lay in our deck chairs a good portion of the day.

Played a little shuffle board. Visited the ship's laundry where there is every facility for washing and ironing. Got well caught up on our laundry. A rainbow in the spray has been following us for days. Very lovely!

Much entertainment in the smoking room evenings. Cabaret, music and bingo. Won over 8 L at bingo and was quite thrilled.

April 9th, 1961

• on-board Queen Mary

• Windy-sunny-showery in afternoon and evening. SW gale moderating rough sea, heavy swell moderately

Mass at 9:30 am in the 1st class lounge.

Had a most difficult ship quiz for the day in which we matched up riddles against surnames in the passenger list. I knew I had several wrong but passed it in anyway, and to my delight found I was winner again. Received a beautiful real leather manicure case completely fitted. Attended cabaret and bingo after dinner. Afternoon on the sun deck.

April 10th, 1961

• Abd Queen Mary

• Cloudy-Mild-Showery

Docked at Cherbourg at about 8:30 AM. Thrilled to see the coastline of France as we came in. After breakfast we were permitted to leave the ship and go exploring. Most of the people walked but we took a taxi about the city. Another passenger asked if he could join us and he spoke very good French was able to interpret much from the driver that we might have missed. Went up on Fort Roule 107 meters high and looked over Cherbourg.

Saw the Musee de Liberation. Thought we would be wrecked going down the steep pitches with the driver gesturing with both hands off the wheel. Fort Roule was the site of fierce fighting during the 2nd WW, 35000 Germans were trapped on the Peninsula and the Eng + Am's bombed it unceasingly for 5 days.

Our taxi driver told us the the Germans had headquarters in Cherbourg for two years prior to the outbreak of the war.

Frenzy of packing. We will go through customs about 9:00 pm. Will call Jim from Southampton. We are now in sight of the English coast.*

Docked at Southampton and was through customs by 11 pm. Boat train very comfortable. Much prefer the English system of side cars to our American aisle trains. "Put" and I had train compartment to ourselves and were able to relax. Jim was waiting with the car, and the ride to Brentwood was very comfortable.

Meadow House where Jim and Ann live with Clarissa (age 5) is charming with a gracious, hospitable atmosphere, reflecting its occupants. Had tea and went to bed about 3 a.m. I do so like the English system of lavatory and bath separate, with basin and running water in the room.

April 14th, 1961

• Meadow House/London/Bexhill

• Rainy in a.m. Clearing and sunny later in the day.

Came up to London today from Brentwood. Check our bags at the station and took the underground from Liverpool St. to Westminster. Went through St. Margaret's Church, the original parish church of the abbey. Foundations laid in 1000. About 200 years ago, it was separated from Westminster Abbey. Of course, to a Roman Catholic, all has a familiar and understandable air. Saw burial places of Eliz I, Mary Stewart, James I, and all the other notables. Also, the coronation chair.

Had a lovely lunch at St. Stephens Restaurant opposite the Houses of Parliament but did not go through as we had to meet Peter at 2:30 pm. Got to the Great Eastern Hotel in good time to connect with Peter and drive down to Bexhill. He has a lovely new Jaguar which rides easily and has a speed capacity of around 130 miles per hour.

The ride down into Sussex and Kent is beautiful. The rolling landscape is much like Western Massachusetts. We stopped at an ancient castle knoll containing 365 rooms and 52 staircases, 7 courtyards. As it takes an hour plus to go through we just visited the courtyards and Great Hall. The castle dates from the time of King John 1199-1216. The Duchess of Windsor met her Edward there at some sort of entertainment, Kay and Peter have a lovely spacious home in Bexhill. There is an air of family living which is very comfortable and easy. It was a delight to see them all, and we spent most of the time getting acquainted all over again. The sea is only a few minutes walk from their home.

After a lovely dinner, we gathered in the drawing room for conversation and a bit of television.

The boys were pleased with the games we brought them, and James and I had a great time playing concentration. Kay promises me an Old Castle for tomorrow.

April 16th, 1961

• Bexhill, Sussex, England

• Cloudy in the a.m. turning sunny

We went to Mass this morning at the church of Magdalen in Bexhill. It was an ancient stone edifice with the pulpit on the side aisle of the church instead of in front as are ours. Otherwise, aside from the architecture, one might be in an American church. This is understandable when one reflects upon the antiquity of Roman Catholicism and its unchanging pattern. We strolled home admiring the little English gardens. In one there was a tablet which read something like this:

In the sun is the pardon of God.

In the song of the birds is His mirth

You are nearer God's heart in a garden

Than in any place else on earth.

Dad went with Peter to the Cricket Club before noon dinner, and the boys and I went down to the shore. The sea was calm and lovely and the air bracing. This afternoon we set out on an exploration on a very grand scale. First we went to Eastbourne, a place by the sea with 3 promenades on graduating terraces and a profusion of flowers in formal beds almost unavailable for beauty. Visited Pevensey Castle on the Pevensey marshes. The marshes on which Hitler planned to come down. The Castle was built by the Romans as a fortification, and the ruins of the chapel show the font and Saxon stone with a Saxon symbol carved on it. Following this we tramped the Sussex Downs. Extending for some 20 miles, they roll away into the blue distance with grass as short and green as any lawn. They tell us the chalk in the soil keeps the grass as short as though it had been mowed. At Bleachy Head we saw our first of the famous white Chalk Cliffs. Returning we stopped by the sea at Burling___ for our tea, served with heavenly melt-in-the mouth scones. In Hooe, a tiny village outside Bexhill we visited our first pub. It was all we imagined, with a cozy fire and gleaming bottles reflecting the light. Had a chandy, a drink made of 1/2 ginger ale and 1/2 beer. Dad had light beer and Kay the same as I, and Peter the same as Dad. They served us delicious out-sized sausage on a toothpick, crisped to a lovely brown and with a flavor impossible to describe. The name of the pub is Tamlin's Lamb Inn and the swinging sign had a picture of a little white lamb gamboling on the green. I am sure no "Mary" ever had a prettier lamb. The pub building dates from 1520 and is in remarkably good condition. People were quiet voiced and orderly. The young crowd was just coming in as we left.

April 17th, 1961

• St. Norberts Bexhill, Sussex

• Cloudy-Cool

This morning Peter and the boys demonstrated the fewer points of cricket to us. They have a small practice field in the garden. Dad and I took a long walk into Bexhill and did a little shopping. Visited St. Peter's Church (High Church) in Bexhill. It was consecrated in 772 and the deed of conveyance in the entrance, by Affa, King of the English, gives in ancient language, the rights of conveyance. There is also, in a glass case, the Stone of Bexhill- made of a sandstone not found in Sussex and thought to be brought by St. Wilfrith where he came to convert the Saxons. It has Saxon carvings upon it and is a thing of great antiquity. It is thought to be a relic, (possibly the covering to a saint's tomb.) which, until 800 or so was necessary in the R.C. church for the consecration of a church. Today Joan came with her children (2 of the 3 of them) for lunch. Later her husband came down to join her, have tea, and bring her home. Peter has gone to London to stay at their apt in the Mews. Joan's husband is a busy doctor and it was very gracious of him to take time from his work to meet us. Supper before the fire in the drawing room tonight.

April 18th, 1961

• St. Norberts Bexhill

• Sunny, mild

This morning Dad and I set out for a long walk on the promenade and a little shopping in the store section. Even their larger stores have an old world atmosphere, and a sense of crowdedness and hodgepodge. This afternoon we went back to Hastings Castle for some pictures as Dad did his camera on our first visit. We went down by the shore where the fishing vessels were coming in, and bought some nice fresh plaice for supper. Tomorrow we go to Brighton and will send a postcard to Grampy Cox from his old stomping grounds. Did a bit sewing for Kay today.

April 20th, 1961

• St Norbert's Bexhill Sussex England

• Raw, cold, over-cast

Down to the sea with Robert this morning. Tide out and the three of us were able to walk far out over the sand looking for shells. I left Dad and Robert and came back early to write some letters. This afternoon Dad went to Bexhill to get his hair cut. Three shillings for a hair cut that would cost $1.50 in Delaware, even (in places) a $1.75. Mandy, the fox terrier had her puppies last night. Three males and a female. She had been mated with a thoroughbred, but the puppies turned out to be mongrels. I suspect Labrador Retrievers in part. Tomorrow we go to Essex to stay a but more with Anne and Jim.

April 21st, 1961

• Bexhill and Meadow House Brentwood

• Clear, Sunny, Cool

Down to the beach at Bexhill with Dad and Robert. A beautiful day, one of the best we've had in Eng. Taxi came at 2:05 to take us to the RR station for the trip to London. London carriage very comfortable and had tea and toast brought to us en route. Took a taxi across the city from Victoria Station to Liverpool Street, and passed by Buckingham Palace, through Trafalgar Sq. + Piccadilly Circus and by many other interesting points. Got to Meadow House in good time for dinner. Very nice to see them all again. Clarissa waiting anxiously for us.

April 22nd, 1961

• Meadow House Essex

• Rainy, intermittent sun

A quiet day. Went down to the launderette in the moving and got caught up on our laundry. Ironed them all today and we are quite up to date on fresh cloths. Jim had a tooth out which required dental surgery, so we decided, because of this, and because of the weather to rest in the afternoon. Enjoyed an evening of television and conversation. News came in that a state of emergency had been declared in France, and we are awaiting more news today and tomorrow to determine whether it will be wise to go there this coming week.

I believe the reason for the state of emergency was the Algiers putsch, a failed coup d'etat in France.

April 23rd, 1961

• Meadow House Essex

• Cloudy in A.M. Fair in PM

Went to church this morning to a little old place in Essex. After Mass, we set out to drive about the Essex countryside. Visited one of the oldest churches in Eng. about 900 in Greensted.* Made of logs and a miracle of preservation. Then drove to Chiqwell to have dinner at the Kings Head-the inn made famous in Dickens' "Barnaby Rudge". Dickens stayed here when he wrote the book, and called it the Maypole in his novel. Entertaining atmosphere. Here were held the Quarterly Courts in Pre-Elizabethan and Elizabethan days. Built about 15th cent. Later visited an Old Saxon-Norman church dating from 1154.

*Bones of St Edmonds rested here in 1013 on the way to his resting place in Bury St Edmonds

April 29th, 1961

• Harvey Hotel Paris France

• Some cloudiness-mild

This am woke up to find I had left my pocketbook downstairs in the hotel where we had been watching television the night before. In quite a dither until I found that they had put it away for me. Trip to Versailles this afternoon. Palace at Versailles is a marvel of richness and beauty. Quite a day as we had been to the Effie Tower in the morning - going up in it for a wonderful view - and having a nice lunch at the restaurant there. There is a lot of walking to get buses before you get started on your sightseeing, so one gets quite tired. Had dinner at La Bonne Fourchette un Rue St. Honore. Very good. Wine excellent. Ask Daddy.

April 30th, 1961

• Harvey Hotel Paris France

• Raw, Cloudy, some sprinkles of rain

This morning we went to Mass at the Church of St. Therese. Mass was held in the crypt bearing her name and the children chanted parts of it - very beautiful.

Then we went over to Notre Dame where a high mass was in progress. Had a good dinner at a very swanky restaurant* across from the church at a very swanky price.

From there we went to Napoleons' tomb where one's breath is quite taken away with the atmosphere and beauty of the place. Then went down the Seine in a boat to see all over again all the places we had traversed plus many more. Met a woman from California, about our age, travelling all alone. Intends to do Europe U.K. Scandinavia etc. Some courage!

*Patisserie Perigourdine Place San Michel opp. Notre Dame. Strolled along the Seine looking at the stalls

May 4th, 1961

• Geneva, Switzerland -Hotel Alba

• Warm-Sunny

A beautiful day and Geneva is certainly beautiful in the sun. Had breakfast in the hotel-the usual petits paius, cafe au lait, and two type of jelly. They don’t seem to go in for fruit juices in the a.m. as at home. Purchased some tickets from Hotel for a trip to Chamonix, Mont Blanc, where they hold the big ski festival. Dad plans to ride up the glacier in the cable cars, but I am sure I won’t have the nerve to go. We leave to Chamonix early tomorrow a day trip. Strolled down to Lake Geneva and met a couple from Pennsylvania. They asked us to join them on the boat ride on Lake Geneva this afternoon, which we did. Nearly two hours of the most wonderful scenery I ever saw.

Greenest of foliage-cleanest of lakes-and snow capped mountains ringing us on all sides. Pleasant little chalets perched precariously on distant hills-a most entrancing ride. We went to the Am. Express office to file our numerous papers on our lost Travellers Checks, and took off for the American Consulate to have the certified etc. Back to the girl at Am. Express office where duplicate checks where available immediately. Inquired our way from an Anglo-Indian whom we thought at least a lower potentate but who turned out to be a rug and fur merchant who offered us a mink or leopard coat for at least ⅕ of what we would pay in Swiss stores. Insisted on giving us his address: Moh Di Yaqule Avenue 48 Windi 3d Floor (Bus No 3).

We don’t plan to take him up on it.

It’s name is Jet D’Eau and it is beautiful illuminated at night.

May 6th, 1961

• Geneva, Switzerland

• Cloudy with rain; sun toward eve.

Woke up after a miserable night with a cold mostly in throat and upper chest. Took some Strepsil (throat lozenges we got in England) and took it easy in morning. Went to dinner (noon) at the Hotel d’Alleves’ Coq Rouge on a nearby side street and had a very good meal with lovely fresh strawberries for dessert. Then went shopping and Dad found a dear little shop with the window full of Swiss clocks all working overtime and the quaintest little dolls.

Bought Mary Caroline a lovely little Swiss costume dress and hat and some dolls for all our little girls. Found a quaint little music box for Carol with dancing figures. Located a boys’ shop where we got alpine climbing shorts for David and little Dickie. Took a bus tour around the city in the afternoon seeing some of the wonderful sights of Geneva: League of Nations bldg; New United Nations Palace; Russian Orthodox Church; Protestant Reform Monument; and a statue of the Duke of something or other who gave all his money to the city of Geneva that they might build him a mausoleum and a statue of himself on horseback looking out over the lake. Unfortunately, they reversed the statue and he is now looking inland and the horse is looking over the lake. Had supper at and open air cafe; visited Notre Dame to find out time for masses tomorrow and home for the evening.

May 7th, 1961

• Geneva Switzerland

• Sunny-Mild

Another uncomfortable night with my cold. Woke to bright sunshine with not a cloud in the sky. Discovered yesterday morning they had toasted English muffins instead of Petits Pauis so have been getting them for breakfast. Very good! Went to La Grande Messe at 10:00 a.m. at Notre Dame. A beautiful church with its Swiss Guard stalking the middle aisle with his sword and Halberd. Chanting of portions of the mass by the congregation was very effective. Dinner at same place as yesterday. A stroll in the afternoon and packing tonight. We leave for Zurich tomorrow a.m. A quiet day.

May 12th, 1961

• The Hague, Holland

• Clear, Sunny, Mild

Went through an old Dutch prison now R’yk museum complete with torture chamber, instruments, rooms for common + political prisoners. Saw room in which Cornelius DeWitt was imprisoned, accused of a plot to assassinate Wm the III. Later he was tortured and sentenced to banishment, but he and his brother who came to get him, were murdered by the mob outside the prison.

Went shopping for a few more gifts for people at home. Had a lovely dinner at the hotel. They can’t locate a room at a London hotel for us, so we shall just have to take our chances when we get there. Strolled about the old part of town and saw many old buildings most likely old parliamentary buildings and Govt. offices.

May 15th, 1961

• Meadow House, Brentwood

• Cloudy w/sunshine late afternoon

Went to London to see about tours to Scotland or Ireland. Dropped into Cunard Lines to pick up labels for our luggage and found that a mistake had been made on our tickets. Queen Mary sails on the 24th-our date, June 1st, is for the Queen Elizabeth. Although Queen Mary is listed on ticket. Will go in tomorrow to see about rectifying this. Had a nice dinner at the Chicken Inn + got some information on a voyage to Southern Ireland. Ann’s mother operated on this morning. Word tonight is encouraging. Will more later. Supper in the drawing room with Ann’s father as additional guest. Very pleasant.

May 16th, 1961

• Meadow House, Brentwood, Essex

• Fair, intermittent cloudiness

Dad went to London today and I set out for a nice long walk. A bit on the chilly side but warn when the sun came out. Met some gypsies who said I was to be very lucky and wished to read my palm but I had no money with me.

Dad came back to say that he had tickets for the boat train to Ireland for tomorrow. So we are off again. Called Kay and she wants us at Bexhill after we come back from Ireland. Time is getting short, we’ll soon be for America.

May 19th, 1961

• Wexford, Ireland

• Sunny-Fairly Warm

Found a car and chauffeur to take us over the surrounding country. Chauffeur, Bryant Kennedy, wonderful companion and excellent guide. Visited Titania’s Palace, the world’s most perfect miniature structure conceived by Sir Nevile Wilkinson at his Mt. Merrion home south of Dublin. * Had dinner at Wooden Bridge hotel in the Vale of Avoca. Then visited Glendaloch, County Wicklow where we saw the Chapel of St. Kevin, the ruins of the community church there and the oldest Norman Round Tower in Ireland, where the monks sought refuge with the sacred vessels when attacked. Some of the most beautiful of scenery in Ireland. Visited the rivers made famous by Thomas Moore, Irish Poet, in his “meeting of the waters”

*Daughter saw a fairy in her garden and father conceived idea of building a fairy palace for Titania and Oberon.

May 20th, 1961

• Wexford, Ireland (Hotel Talbot)

• Warm and sunny.

Woke to a glorious morning-bright sunlight, ocean sparkling. Took a long walk along the oceanfront and saw the fishermen mending their nets and painting their boats. Our guide from yesterday came to the hotel with a gift for us - a small linen mat trimmed with real irish lace. A most engaging gesture and typical of the warm hearts of the Irish. Had dinner at the hotel and High Tea before we got our train for Rosslare Harbor. News of a man drowning at Wexford by the conductor of the train. Boat cabin very adequate and weather more agreeable than when we took the boat for Ireland. Went to bed early as we must be up for the 3:55 am train to London tomorrow morning.

May 22nd, 1961

• St. Norbert’s, Bexhill-on-Sea, England

• Cool-clear, sunny

A perfect day-clear and sunny. Slept wonderfully and spent most of the day in the hammock in Kay’s garden. Very relaxing after the pressure upon us traveling during the past few weeks. Dad and Peter off for some golf this morning. Back about 3 pm when we had a porch lunch. A lazy afternoon with everyone resting either in the house or garden. After tea Dad and I walked down to the beach in the lovely evening sunshine. Ocean never more beautiful-dark blue with snowy breakers lapping the shore. In the evening Peter drove us all to Hastings to see the lights and the castle lighted up. The Canbarra new 45,000 ton liner sailed by all lighted. Very beautiful. On its way to Australia on its maiden voyage.

May 27th, 1961

• St. Norbert’s, Bexhill-on-Sea

• Cold, clear, sunny

A bitterly cold day for this time of year, especially with the sun shining so brightly. Decided to stay home and relax. Ran across a book “The Windsor Tapestry” by Compton Mackenzie which I shall try to get it at home to finish. It is an account of the life and abdication of Edw VIII, Went down to Hastings in the late afternoon with Kay to do a little shopping. No fresh fish at the great fish market as it was too choppy for the fishmonger to go out. Bought some cooked lobster and Dad made a nice lobster salad for tea. To bed early to read and rest. Nice to relax after two days of constant riding.

May 28th, 1961

• St Norbert’s, Bexhill-on-Sea

• Sunny early a.m. turning cold & rainy

Another fairly quiet day. Good we cancelled the Cambridge trip as the day turned very cold and rainy after a bit of sun in the a.m. Went to 9:30 am Mass and walked by the sea going and coming. A bit longer but well worth it. Had a lovely dinner-roast beef and Yorkshire pudding and continued reading my book. All rested in the afternoon and then Dad and I went riding with Kay. Television after tea this evening. Shirpa, the great black cat, determined not to be out done by Mandy and her pups, presented us with two kittens in the broom closet. Kittens found by accident when Kay suspected that Shirpa was acting peculiarly.

May 29th, 1961

• St. Norbert’s, Bexhill-on-Sea

• Sunny early a.m. - Cold, rainy later

Went in to Hastings this morning to have my hair done. Very nice shop and service. Began to rain hard as we came back. Good for the gardens. They certainly need it. In spite of England’s cloudy, lowering weather there has been very little rainfall since we have been here.

This afternoon Kay, Dad and I came up to London and caught the train to Brentwood. Letter waiting from Helen. Nice supper with lots of fun and laughter. Key left for the mews about 9:30 pm. To bed fairly early. Tomorrow we must pack and get all our bags to Waterloo Station for shipping.

June 2nd, 1961

• Aboard Queen Elizabeth

• Sunny, clear, windy

Managed to get up in time for breakfast though it was an effort. Went up to the sports deck to sun ourselves in our deck chairs and stayed most of the morning. It was windy but sunny and not too cold. More lying around the sun deck in the afternoon. Bingo in the evening in the Garden Lounge. Not too many playing and the stakes fairly low. They have a fairly good orchestra and some of the selections their afternoon and evening were very well done.

June 3rd, 1961

• Aboard Queen Elizabeth

• Scattered cloudiness - windy

Spent all forenoon on the sun deck - cool but sunny most of the time.

Nothing much doing on this ship. Eat and lie around in the sun. Food and service not so good as on the Queen Mary, but adequate.

Bingo and Horse Racing in Evening. Daddy won in the first race.

June 4th, 1961

• Queen Elizabeth

• Fair, sunny-cloudy in PM

Mass in the 1st Class Lounge this am at 9:30. A sung mass -beautifully done.

Bingo in evening followed by Crazy Hat Parade and dancing in the Smoke Room.

June 5th, 1961

• Queen Elizabeth

• Sunny-war

Deck chairs most of the day. Bingo in the evening.

June 6th, 1961

• Queen Eliz-N.Y.-Home!

• Hot, humid, sunny

Through immigration about 12 noon. Disembarked 1:00 PM. Shed in N.Y. at Customs barriers very hot and noisy. Connected with Custom’s official about 2:30 PM. Very lenient with us. After watching the luggage of the other people being torn open we were much relieved to have such a kind inspector. Home by 7 pm. And a nice visit from Carol and Bob in the evening. So good to be back!