Insight 1
License policy
Each Slaughterhouse has a license for a prescribed number of animals. The number of animals slaughtered may not exceed 2500 per day, i.e. 2,000 sheep and goats and 500 buffaloes
Insight 2
Guidelines for slaughter houses
No animal which has an offspring less than three months old
has not been certified by a veterinary doctor that it is in a fit condition to be slaughtered
No animal which is pregnant
Insight 3
Laws for slaughtering
States have specific Acts for prohibition of slaughter of cows, whereas others relate to preservation of agricultural cattle. In respect of the newly-created States of Jharkhand, Uttaranchal and Chattisgarh, the laws of undivided Bihar, Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh prevail, as the new States are yet to formulate their own laws. Kerala is the only major State, apart from some of the North Eastern States, which does not have an Act with regard to slaughter of cattle.
Insight 4
Demand for meat
2702 slaughterhouses in the country recognized or authorized by local bodies. The number of authorized slaughterhouses have not increased to meet the demand for meat production.
Insight 5
Unauthorized slaughtering
50 percent of animals slaughtered in any urban centre are from unauthorized slaughter. Existing slaughterhouse capacity in the country is unable to meet the growing public demand for clean and hygienic meat.
Insight 6
Impacts of unauthorized slaughtering
Meat hygiene is a casualty
Increased pollution
Adverse public reactions
Insight 7
Various by products from slaughter house and their uses
Wool and hair - Clothing
Blood - Antitoxin, Medical purposes
Bones - Hydrolyzed gelatin, Medical purposes
Small intestine - Industrial product - Violin string, tennis racquet
Sex organs - Hyaluronic acid for Bio-medicals
Bone ash - Fertilizer
Urine - Medical purposes
Manure - Fertilizer
Meat - Meat processing industry
Skin (Epidermis) - Cosmetic industry
Insight 8
Peripheral domains dependent under meat industry
Hair are Mixed with soil and used as fertilizers
Hair used for Keratin based products
Pharmaceutical industry is dependent on leather industry
Gelatin for capsule making
collagen sheet
Manufacturing industries that utilize the bones and discarded organs of the slaughtered animals
Methane as a source of energy can also exists close to the slaughter houses
Other small industries that can co-exist within this network are the glue and manure
Insight 9
Smuggling of Livestock
States border with Bangladesh: West Bengal, Assam, Meghalaya and Tripura, Livestock is smuggled through cattle corridors.
Insight 10
Consumption
Domestic consumption in these states is around 2 lakh tones each - Kerala, Andhra pradesh, Maharashtra, Karnataka
Insight 11
Religious beliefs
A major percentage of Bangladesh’s population is Muslim. religious beliefs does not prescribe special treatment for cows there. The demand for beef is high.
Insight 12
Free roaming cattle
India has a high cattle supply but low demand for economic use due to ethical issues and spiritual beliefs.
Insight 13
Abandoned cattle
farmers are simply releasing male calves and unproductive older female cattle Due to high cost of maintaining animals and Development of tractors and chemical fertilizers for agriculture.
Insight 14
Protection of cattle
Vishwa Hindu Parishad (VHP) consider themselves protectors of both cows and buffaloes. Cow urine and cow dung is considered as a medicinal remedies.
Insight 15
Govt. initiative for cattle protection
Development of Gaushala’s (2014-16): Modi's government also spent about $41 million building cow sheds called gaushalas to hold stray cattle. There are now more than 5,000 gaushalas across India. UP government has released the third installment of Rs 125 crore in the 2023-24 financial year for the construction of temporary shelters for protection of stray cows.
Insight 16
Animal husbandry processes
Animal Hygiene
Shelter
Food
Animal Health care
Insight 17
Sentiments towards cows
Cow represents the Mother Goddess. gods Krishna and Shiva are associated with this animal. Gau hatya: A sin of murdering a cow
Insight 18
Contrast of religious beliefs
Over 80% of India’s population follows Hinduism. India is home to 10.9% of the world's Muslim population. 2.5% of the population of India are Christians.
Insight 19
Protective laws
Ethical treatment and respect allotted to cattle's due to protective laws and spiritual beliefs.
Insight 20
Various Acts of protection
Prevention of Cruelty to Animals Act of 1960
2015 ban on cattle slaughter under the Maharashtra Preservation of Animals (Amendment) Act, 1995.
The ban on cow slaughter bill, 2019
anti-cow slaughter laws
Insight 21
Segregation of Livestock
Livestock should be segregated and transported
• horned cattle
• hornless cattle
• adult bulls
• cattle greatly different in size (cows and calves may preferably be transported together under some circumstances)
• weak cattle, which should be segregated from strong cattle.
Insight 22
Guidelines for Transportation
Outer walls should be solid in cold climates, but in hot climates may beneficially be constructed of open metal, wood or concrete rails to assist ventilation
Journey lengths should be kept to a minimum and meat animals should be slaughtered as close to where they have been produced as possible
The rails must be close enough to prevent animals getting their heads or legs trapped between them.
Floors must allow cleaning and be non-slip
The maximum number of animals allowed to be carried in open trucks must not exceed 40 goats/sheep and 4 buffaloes.
well designed and carefully maintained to facilitate ease of movement and prevent injury.
The goods vehicle should have roofs to provide protection from rain, wind and sun.
carry valid documents to transport the animals
Loading and unloading,understanding of how to move animals using the principles of animal behaviour to avoid causing distress, injury or suffering to the animals and to protect human safety
Insight 23
Pre tanning process
Dehairing - Total lime and sulfide free enzymatic dehairing
Curing - Short Term preservation by salt application
Soaking - Long Term preservation
Liming - Sludge Free Liming Process
Fleshing
Deliming - Ammonia free deliming of skins/hides
Insight 24
What is tanning
Tanning is the permanent preservation for the leather. Because its a protein material which is not tanned yet. Before tanning the skin cannot withstand up to 50 degree Celsius(hot conditions). Time period for tanning is a 2-3 days
Insight 25
Types of tanning
Veg tanning
Chrome tanning
Newer materials
Insight 26
Veg Tanning
Oldest method of tanning leather. Done with Tree Barks, oils, seeds, vegetable based oils and waxes. natural tannins, available in liquid or powder form, obtained from a different part of plants including woods, barks, fruits, fruit pods, and leaves.
Insight 27
Chrome Tanning
Solution of chemicals, acids, and salts which includes chrome sulphate. chrome content will penetrate inside the metrix and cross linked inside the skin. Chrome tanned leather is Softer in Nature
Insight 28
Chrome alternatives - Newer materials
Zeolite - Zeolites are aluminosilicates. In other words, a type of mineral made out of aluminum, silicon and oxygen. Processing and duration equivalent to chrome tanning. Zeolite tanned takes much lesser time ( 80% biodegradable in 566 days ) A tanning agent based on zeolites and free of chrome, aldehyde and heavy metals.
Insight 29
Various post tanning processes
Develop quality of leather Softness. 2-3 days for processing.
Dyeing
Drying
Leather finishing department - embossing, grain correction etc
Grading of the skin - Leather quality check
Insight 30
Dyeing
Organic dyes - Application of dye powder on the skin. Less intensity, poor light fastness, slow process.
Inorganic dyes - Done from Triphenylmethane dyes, Anthraquinone dyes, Azo Dyes. Acideic base, better consistency, Fast process.
Insight 31
Drying
Dyed Leather needs to be dried. Drying happens on Conveyor belt. Dried in room temperature.
Insight 32
Leather finishing department
Various processes
Sammying
Splitting
Shaving and trimming
Rechroming
Neutralization
Fat liquoring
Finishing
Insight 33
Grading of leather
Leather inspection and laboratory tests done on the basis of parameters like Thickness, shine, tape test, color, softness, tensile strength, elongation at break etc
Insight 34
Types of grading
Upper Grade (Grade I- VIII)
Upper Grade IX to X grades (rejected in I to VIII upper)
Suede (Flesh side finished articles)
Heel Grip (Articles with less value than suede)
Rejection Grade (Leather with severe damage and defects)
Lining I (Leathers not suitable for upper)
Lining II grade (Leathers rejected in Lining I)
Insight 35
Exotic animal skin
In India -4 major species are allowed to process Goat, sheep, Cow, Buffalo. Rare leather from animals such as Deer, Crocodile, Snake. Exotic animal skin is expensive, Prohibition for killing these animals in India. Hence these skin are imported
Insight 36
Guidelines for importing rare leather
Animal quarantine has a specified list of animals to be used for leather industry.
Animal quarantine certificate.
Requirement of document : Country of origin certificate .
Insight 37
Profile of workers in footwear manufacturing units
the total sample of workers comprised 30 people with an average age of 34.3 years. Most of these workers, 23 of the 30, were women. Only three of the respondents reported having received formal education beyond higher secondary level. Among the Muslim workers, all 12 respondents identified as members of a “backward” community. Among the Hindu workers, 15 out of the 18 respondents identified as belonging to scheduled caste (also known as Dali's). leather industry has traditionally been defined by caste location. In terms of religious belief, 12 of the respondents were Muslims and 18 were Hindus.
Insight 38
Factors affecting workers
Skill set, mental health, wages, physical health, recruitment, performance management, training and skill development, leadership and management, career development are some factors that affect workers
Insight 39
Workplace
Ergonomics, safety protocols, air quality/ventilation, workplace culture, noise levels, lighting condition, working hours, accessibility, tool accessibility, resources, location accessibility
Insight 40
Workplace safety
Rules and regulations, uniforms, safety signs, protective gears are used.
Insight 41
Work culture
Inclusive work culture and encouragement of diversity. The organization works hard to hire more women and persons from religious minorities and the LGBTQ community. hiring from local villages, often uneducated women and training them in the skills to handcraft a slow but thoughtful product. 90% craftswomen as employees
Insight 42
Locally made leather products
craftsmanship & attention to detail
small scale
high prices
local economy
smaller environmental footprint
artisan oriented
small businesses
Insight 43
Mass production
Product variations - Often follows seasonal trends with predefined styles and colors.
Production scale - large-scale production of standardized footwear.
Production technology - Often relies on automated machinery and assembly lines for efficiency.
Market appeal - Appeals to a broader market with readily available and affordable products.
Environment impact - Higher environmental impact due to large-scale manufacturing and waste.
cost - Generally lower costs per unit due to economies of scale.
Production speed - Shorter lead times as products are produced in advance and readily available.
Insight 44
Standardization of mass produced products
Quality control processes are designed to meet predefined standards for the entire production run.
creating designs that can be efficiently produced in large quantities.
Standards may include initiatives to reduce waste, energy consumption, and the environmental impact associated with large-scale production.
Customer service standards focus on addressing inquiries, managing inventory, and ensuring timely deliveries.
Standards aim for shorter lead times to meet consumer demand for readily available products.
Focuses on creating products with standard fits that cater to a broad consumer base.
Consistency and uniformity in production are paramount.
optimizing production processes for efficiency, speed, and cost-effectiveness.
Insight 45
Standardization of customized products
facilitating a wide range of design choices while ensuring the feasibility of production for each customized order.
Efficiency standards need to accommodate variations in designs, requiring flexible and adaptable production processes.
Quality standards are crucial to ensuring that each customized product meets the customer's expectations.
Quality checks may be more individualized, addressing specific design elements chosen by customers.
Assisting customers in making personalized choices, managing order-specific details, and providing a personalized experience.
Lead time standards may be more flexible, acknowledging the longer production times associated with making products to order.
Sustainability standards may emphasize the responsible use of materials, reducing waste in customized orders, and providing eco-friendly choices for customers.
Standards include ensuring that customized products provide the desired fit and comfort based on individual preferences and measurements.
Speed may be less critical than ensuring accuracy and precision in the customization process.
Design standards may cover the quality and compatibility of materials chosen by customers.
Insight 46
Customization
Product variations - Offers varied design options with choices in colors, materials, styles, and extras.
Production speed - Longer lead times as each pair is made to order.
Production scale - limited scale production according to the individual preferences.
Production technology - May involve a combination of automated machinery and skilled craftsmanship
Market appeal - Appeals to consumers seeking unique, personalized products.
Environment impact - comparatively lower impact as production is tailored to specific orders, reducing excess inventory and waste.
cost - Higher costs per unit due to the personalized nature of the production process.
Insight 47
Primary stage after leather is approved
Understanding client requirements
Concept ideation
mood board preparation
Product range
Insight 48
Stake holders in the Design and development process
Designers
Supply Chain Managers
Insight 49
Layers of the process
Design Aesthetics
Understand of people perception
Functionality and comfort
Trend understanding
Insight 50
Role of Design
Can be used as differentiator
Demand for new and latest design
Develop multiple iterations from single design
Insight 51
Trend understanding/Forecast
What is the sale-ability?
Sales period defined as 4 months
Investment & development on the upcoming trend only
Validation of the trend
Insight 52
Phases of trend
Already prevailing in the market
Upcoming trend
Already at the saturation point
Insight 53
Shoe making assembly
Pattern making
Preparation of the upper sole part
Sewing/stitching
folding
gluing
assembling
shoe lasting
molding of the upper part
buffing
outside joining
pressing
cooling
finishing
Insight 54
Additional components
Metal or Composite Shank - arch support
Protection material - waterproof spray or coating
Last - wooden, plastic
Sole materials - leather sole, rubber sole, combination
Insole materials - leather insole, cushion insole
Thread and stitching materials - strong nylon/polyester thread, needle
Reinforcement materials - toe caps, heels counter
Adhesive - leather glue
Hardware - eyelets, Buckles or Fasteners
Dye and finishing agent
Insight 55
Different categories of consumer
Men
Working men
Women
Working women
Kids
professional need
quality conscious buyers
aspirational buyers
luxury buyer
foreign customers
traditional buyer
urban crowd
Insight 56
Lifestyle choices of consumer
Health
Geography
performance
culture of space
way of living
economic condition
style
Insight 57
Different needs of consumer
Longevity
Durability
cost effective
ease of maintenance
comfort
Insight 58
Types of packaging
Transparent Window Boxes
Cardboard or Corrugated Boxes
FOAM PADDING
TUBULAR PACKAGING
WRAPPING PAPER
BAR CODE
BUBBLE WRAP
TAPE
CARTON BOX
OUTER CARTON BOX
PRICE TAG
JUTE
LOCK
STICKERS
HANG TAGS
TOE FILLERS
LABELS
Insight 59
Types of packaging materials
Paper
Non woven fabric
Cardboard
Bubble Wrap
Foam
Wood
Plastic film covers
Corrugated Boxes
Thin Protective Wraps
Insight 60
Printing capabilities of shoe packaging materials
Value for the consumers
Communication of product information
Branding Elements
Insight 61
Packaging Key Requirements
Ventilation
Storage
Fungus
Strength against impact
Cushioning
Protection
Moisture Resistance
Transportation
Communicating brand value to end users
Insight 62
Sustainable/ Eco-friendly Packaging
One time use of the packaging
Innovation in Shoe-packaging
Reusable Shoe Packaging - cloth bags
Eco-Chip Dessicant
Insight 63
INDIAN GOVT. INITIATIVES & SUPPORT
Govt. providing subsidies & grants in Leather Industry for maintenance of sustainability and ethical practices
Insight 64
Emphasis on generating Sustainability Value
Economic value, social value, environmental value all form together to become the sustainable value
Insight 65
Circular Bio-economy (CBE) practices
Lead to achieve sustainable development goals (SDGs)
Insight 66
Involvement of Supply chain management
Managing inventories
Planning and scheduling manufacturing
Processing orders
Sourcing commodities
Warehousing and logistics
Delivering products to clients
Providing after-sale support services
Insight 67
Problem - Very volatile nature of the leather footwear industry
Bullwhip effec - The bullwhip effect is a supply chain phenomenon describing how small fluctuations in demand at the retail level can cause progressively larger fluctuations in demand at the wholesale, distributor, manufacturer and raw material supplier levels.
Insight 68
Support operations for the footwear industry
Construction of infrastructure, Creation of in-house technologies, The acquisition of supplies, The management of human resources.
Insight 69
Value chain
At each stage of the value chain, more value is created, and this coincides with an increase in profit margin.
Logistics
sales
distribution
marketing
service
Insight 70
Management aspects
Planning
Managing
Coordinating
Organizing
Insight 71
EXPORT GROWTH
Competitive advantage in the international market. High employment generating capability. Labour intensive sectors in India. Improved allocation efficiency. Improved production techniques. Increased scale economies.
Insight 72
SME SECTOR leather footwear Export
SME SECTOR leather footwear Export lacks the following elements
Active participation in trade fairs
News releases
Training for business development
Company brochure
Company website as a promotional tool
Insight 73
Significant relationships in SME sector
(PAT) Profit after tax of the exporting firms.
Sales revenue
Repeat customers
Insight 74
Higher price aware buyer market
Pricing should be done keeping trade tariffs in mind.
Buyers should have almost instant access to the suppliers.
Promotion
Company brochure
News
releases
Participating in fairs
Insight 75
MAJOR PRODUCTION CENTRES OF LEATHER AND LEATHER PRODUCTS
Northern Region - Punjab- Jallandhar. Delhi- Delhi.
Southern Region - Tamil Nadu- Chennai, Ambur, Ranipet, Vaniyambadi, Trichy and Dindigul. Andhra Pradesh- Hyderabad, Karnataka, Bangalore.
Eastern Region - West Bengal- Kolkata.
Western Region - Maharashtra- Mumbai.
Central Region - Uttar Pradesh- Kanpur and Agra.
Insight 76
Major destinations of India’s leather export
Chine
Hong kong
US
Europe
Insight 77
EXPORT POTENTIAL IN LEATHER INDUSTRY
US and some European countries together account for 80 % of India’s leather products exports. Account for 7% of India’s export basket. Five types of leather products exported from India are Leather Footwear, Footwear Components (Shoe Upper, Soles, etc.), Leather Garments, Leather Goods (including Harness & Saddlery, Leather Gloves, etc.) & Finished Leather. Germany is the second largest importer of leather products in the world. Italy,
Portugal, Spain, Czechoslovakia and Romania are potential competitors from the European region. 10% of leather raw material available in the world.
Insight 78
New markets
New market being developed includes South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Japan, Spain, Portugal, and Saudi Arabia. The major customers for India’s export are Germany, USA, Italy, UK, Spain and France. Western Europe 70%. USA 25%.
Insight 79
Global Market share
The global market for leather products is estimated at Rs. 2781.4 bn (50.45 Billion Euro). Of the various items, the market for upholstery is growing fast, while the market for leather goods is likely to remain stable. Countries like
Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Nepal and a few African countries may be future competitors for India. Not have significant raw material base of their own. These countries enjoy favorable labor costs and congenial industrial and investment climate.
IFLDP
Indian Footwear and Leather Development Programme
NID DESIS LAB
NID Design for social innovation and sustainability
Gandhinagar