New Rollers for the Galley Door

Nov 07, 2019

Can this one little part hold the secret?

Before you can replace the rollers on a sliding glass door you have to get it out first.

I sweated through two and a half days of torture before unlocking the secret to getting the door out.

So, just what is that little part, anyhow?

This little part is a door stop.

It prevents the door from sliding all the way back, hiding a screw that needs to be removed.

Reinstalling the door after 4 days of work. It took 2-1/2 days of torture before I found the secret

Pink Panther Supervises

The rest of the page list the details, parts, and tools needed.

The "Trick" to replacing the trucks/rollers on a 453 galley door.

OK, so there isn’t any magic wand, however the following trick to get your door out will surely make replacing the trucks/rollers on your 453 galley door go from you pulling your hair out to that wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought it would be.

The other thing you want when you are completed is a door that slides like new. I’ll give you another trick that will make your door glide better than when it was new.

I am sure at this point you are probably LOL…..a boat project that goes well, takes less time, works better than new…. this guy has got to be delusional. I can tell you this…. I was almost delusional and ready for the funny farm after working two and a half days and not being any farther ahead then when I started. That’s when I discovered “The Trick” to this madness.

First, you should have the following tools, along with your normal hand tools, a drill, 3/16 drill bit, and a Dremel tool. You’ll also want a block of wood, ¾” X 6” to 24” long, and painters tape.

Second, the list of items you want to order and receive before you start your project. These items are the trick to making your door glide better than when it was new. The original trucks/rollers were steel single rollers on an aluminum track. Rust causes the steel rollers and steel ball bearings to freeze up and wear down the aluminum track. The new truck/rollers will be all stainless steel with tandem rollers and a stainless steel cap will be installed over the old worn down aluminum track. When done you will have four stainless steel rollers with stainless steel bearings rolling on a stainless steel track. Now you gotta love the sound of that, four instead of two, stainless on top of stainless, Glide instead of slide…. Oh Yeah, better than new.

Order these before you start your repair project.

You will need to order two of these trucks/rollers.

Prime-Line Products D 1922 Sliding Door Tandem Roller Assembly with 1-1/2-Inch Ball Bearing, Stainless, Mill, 1-Pack

You will need to order one of these track repair caps.

Prime-Line Products D 1579-C Track Repair Cap, 4' (2 Pieces), Stainless Steel, 3/16" x 4Ft. x 1/4 in

The last thing you will want to order is pile weatherstripping. Check your tracks to see if you will replace all the weatherstripping or just some. Plan on replacing all the pile weatherstripping on the door itself. I ordered ¼” X ¼” which I found to be a bit undersized but it worked. You’ll find what you need on Amazon. Just do a search for Pile Weatherstripping.

Here’s an item you may want to try but is not necessary. I love it. I also use it as dielectric grease on all of my electrical connections.

OK, now that you have everything it’s time to remove the door. Depending on your mood, you may want to start with a cold one. You do not have to remove any of the tracks or railing. I prepared the area by using the painters tape to seal off the deck drain (don’t want any screws to go missing) and tape the fiberglass edges along the front side of the door and along the bottom step to help prevent any scratches from removing the door.

“The Trick”

The top track has three black plastic spacers that are screwed into place. Once these three plastic spacers are removed the door is easily lifted up to clear the bottom track. To get to the middle screw holding the spacers in place , you will need to remove the door stop that is riveted into the top track by drilling the rivet out. With the door stop removed you can now move the door far enough back to get to the middle screw holding the spacers. Leave the door all the way back and the three spacers come out by pulling them down and forward. This part of the process is where the tape you put on earlier comes in. The door and glass have enough flex that by lifting the front of the door, leaving the back of the door down and applying just enough pressure it will make it pass the front edge of the fiberglass and then the step. You may have to pry it past the fiberglass. Just when you are thinking it won’t go. it “pops” out. Same when you are putting it back in.

OK, now that you have the door out and are sitting there looking at it while having a cold one the next thing you will come across is removing the weatherstripping in the bottom to remove the old trucks. You can’t see them but they’re there…. two screws. Spread the pile back and you will see them. Remove the two screws and the whole weatherstripping channel will come out. The trucks have the obvious screw on the outside but there is an additional one on the inside holding it.

While you have the door out and before starting to install the new parts I recommend that you remove the locking/latching mechanism and clean and lubricate it. Now it’s a perfect time for a serious compound and wax job of the glass and door frame. When installing the new trucks you’ll just reuse the outside screws and you will notice that the mounting screw hole and the adjusting screw hole are now opposite of what they were originally. This is not a problem, what you will need to do is elongate the hole for the adjusting screw using your Dremel tool. Before you install the trucks the final time I recommend you completely lubricate them with the Blaster Corrosion Stop, making sure the wheels spin freely. Now you will need to modify the weatherstripping channel that fits into the bottom of the door. You’ll find this pretty obvious and is easily accomplished with your Dremel tool. Now you can replace the pile weatherstripping on the bottom channel before reinstalling. Also replace the weatherstripping on the top of the door. Mine was completely gone. Now your door should be better than new and ready to reinstall.

Next it is time to tackle the tracks. Using your Dremel tool enlarge the drain/weep holes in the bottom track, allowing for better drainage. Then clean all the tracks and replace the weatherstripping as necessary. The last item to install is the stainless steel cap on the bottom track. I used my Dremel tool to cut it to length. It’s a tight fit, by starting at the front, using the block of wood and a hammer you can tap the cap into place, working your way back.

Now it’s time to reinstall the door, the plastic spacers in the top track, and adjust the new rollers. You’ll be amazed at how well your new door glides, it will have you dancing the Jig. Plus you’ll be done in time to grill those steaks and have cocktails!

Here are comments from another Silverton 453 owner after having made this repair:

The door does pop out as stated. You really need to use the painters tape to mask off the fiberglass where you use a board to pry the door out. Going back in is really much easier.

When I removed my door the wheels just feel out. The bottom of my door was severely rusted. Many of my screw heads broke off that left multiple challenges to get the screws out. The process took an entire day. I thought it wouldn't but it was basically a full 8-10 hours of work. I also did the work in my cockpit that left a mess. In fact, some of solvents got on my vinyl leaving stains. I need to get some cleaner today to try and rub it out.

Here are some additional thoughts:

1. Make sure you use blankets to keep things as clean as possible. Lots of metal shavings, rust, and solvents.

2. To remove the wheels on the bottom, there is a track on the BOTTOM of the door. Between the felt there are two screws that allow the track to drop out.

3. The wheels remove by one screw. Once remove the trucks drop out. I had severe rust and my screws broke off. I had to do my best to drill it out. I ended up with a larger hole and one of the wheels is a little off center and farther away from the edge. This causes my door to not slide absolutely perfect like Keith's two finger slide .

4. Putting the track back in is a bitch. You would think getting the track lined up to the holes would be simple. It wasn't for me. In fact. I was only able to get one screw in. After fighting it for a couple hours, I had to put the door back in with one screw. I will pull it out and do it again when I collect my composure.

5. All the parts work perfectly including the new track that you pop on the bottom rail.

Reflecting on the entire process, I would take it slow and allow plenty of time. I was fighting rain storms that caused me to rush certain steps. I think at some point, I would like to replace the entire door with a new one. Not sure that is even possible. I will tell you, it is so nice to be able to open the door and let the breeze blow through the boat.

Chris, thank you for your additional comments. I am sure others will find it helpful.