alex

Day 1: wait he wasn’t lying we’re actually going to Japan

10:42 am Tokyo time, midway through the flight

Hi, I’m Alex, I’m a senior, and I am definitely going to be putting too much thought into these blogs, when I’m not completely exhausted. Which I am right now, even though I have been sitting literally all day and will continue to be sitting for way too long. Being up since 3:30 am and being in close contact with a hundred other passengers tends to have that effect on me. I’ve also very conveniently not managed to fall asleep once after trying for a couple of hours. At this point, I’ll just tell myself that the jet lag will Be and there’s not much I can do about it.

I think the reason I haven’t fallen asleep, though, is because it finally hit me that I’m going to Japan. It sounds so abstract when I say it, partly because Japan is a (relatively) big place and partly because I’ve been repeating that phrase for months. I’ve wanted to go on this trip since I knew it existed, which would be around fifth grade, when my older sister (who went on the trip five years ago) was a freshman. I’ve pictured Harajuku and Shibuya and Kokusai-Joho, but only as concepts, not as places I’ll be visiting over the next few days, and the work I did to fundraise and prepare felt like it was for somebody else.

Last night as I was packing, it still hadn’t sunk in, and I was worried that I’d be preoccupied for the whole trip with trying to make myself believe I was truly in Japan. I told myself I’d just have to wait until I got home to accept that I really went there. This morning, I was too dazed from three hours of sleep to think about it much, until we boarded the plane in Dallas.

As we sped up on the runway, I was nervous, my head spinning with questions. I felt the plane’s wheels lift off the ground and I knew the next time they touched down I would be in Tokyo — and suddenly I couldn’t keep a goofy grin off my face. I was going! I am going!!! (Still feels a bit like I’m dreaming, though)

I guess that’s where I feel like the trip really started, even though nothing has happened yet. I know these next two weeks are going to be so slow and so fast at the same time, and all I can do is take part.

note: wow this is long and sounds suspiciously like a college admissions blog post. Probably because I have been reading Way Too Many. Sorry about that.

note 2: I tried for a good five minutes to rephrase “to make myself believe” because I kept hearing Fireflies when I reread it, but nothing worked as well as that, so thanks to owl city for that I guess. Now you get to hear it too :)

Day 2: how many pictures can you take in one day challenge

8:43 am, Iidabashi - 11:37 pm, Tokyo Central Youth Hostel

So I decided to finish yesterday’s writing today, since I was awake for roughly 30 straight hours and by the end was incoherent.

I decided to save my first impressions of Japan for our second day, since Narita Airport was...an airport. Super busy and had different vending machines, but otherwise, not that exciting, especially since I was tired and ready to see Tokyo. It was dark by the time we left, so I couldn’t see much out the train windows while I ate my 7-11 ramen (surprisingly good, but not the best I’ve had). After we got off our first train, we spent an hour (maybe more? My sense of time was messed up) switching from train to train, trying to get to our hostel, and by the end of it I was falling asleep in my seat.

The hostel was a lot nicer than I expected, but my pillow felt like it was made of rocks. That would have kept me from sleeping any other time, but not last night. I was excited and my mind was racing and yet I still fell asleep almost immediately.

In the morning, I got up before sunrise and took many many pictures of our view. (below) I think I’d have stared out of it forever if we didn’t leave to walk around Odaiba.

After a breakfast including but not limited to salad and French fries, we headed out to the teamLab Borderless exhibit. It was one of the coolest things I’ve ever done; I’ve seen visuals like it, but never interacted with them close up. I loved the feeling of getting lost (literally) in creativity and imagination, not worrying about anything else.

After the exhibit, we stopped at a pancake place where I could eat exactly none of the pancakes they offered (non-dairy gang rise up). So I got a spaghetti-type dish which I had to wear a kind of plastic bib to eat (to avoid splattering, apparently), and wearing it I felt similar to a wet cat forced to take a bath. There’s a photo of it that Sensei is putting somewhere on the blog. Please. do not look for it.

Then we made our way to Ueno, beginning with the Toshogu shrine in Ueno Park. It was weirdly peaceful for being in the middle of the biggest city in the world. I was cold the whole time, but it was gorgeous, and I hadn’t expected to see flowers in the middle of winter. I couldn’t get much in to the quiet mindset, though; usually I’m able to completely slow down and appreciate the tiny details, but all of the trains and sights made me overstimulated and I couldn’t focus. Hopefully Meiji Shrine tomorrow will be better for me since it’ll be in the morning.

We then went to Ameyoko, a former black market and now a street lined with shops and restaurants. I was especially excited about this one since my sister told me all about it, and it was so cool! It reminded me of a street I’d visited on the orchestra trip to New York freshman year. The train kept passing by near the tops of the buildings on one side, and the lit-up signs and shops made for a very Japanese experience. We ended up going into a secondhand shop, and I bought a jacket with ten minutes to spare; I’m excited to wear it and be reminded of Japan (and of waiting nervously while the cashier sorted through papers and told me 日本語上手 - after I said maybe three words.)

My friends and I stopped for dinner and we ordered in Japanese for the first time, which was the most Japanese I’ve used up to that point. All day I’ve been studying the kanji on the subway ads and listening to conversations, but I haven’t been speaking much. Even the tiny amount of Japanese I needed to order my teshoku was scary, but I got through it. I’m looking forward to when I don’t have to rehearse entire sentences in my head in order to talk to people, but to be fair, I do that in English sometimes too.

After dinner, I was completely exhausted to the point of loopiness, like everyone else on the trip, and so our time at the Tokyo Skytree flew by. I was amazed (although I really shouldn’t have been) by how sprawling Tokyo was, and the fact that every twinkling city light meant someone was there in that room. I could see no stars, but I watched trains pass over bridges and building lights flash miles and miles off. Apart from some obvious differences, Tokyo feels like an American city ten years in the future: everything is cleaner, more efficient, and there are robots! We saw some massive (several stories tall) robot sculptures from the train, which were pretty sick.

I’ve only been here for a day and a half, but I’m already planning my trip back. There’s something to find around every corner, and it’s absolutely worth the ache in your feet. I’m so glad we have another day here tomorrow, and almost two more weeks here in Japan. It’s new and exciting and I’m jealous of the people who get to live here every day.

Day 3: (nearly) all aspects of Japanese culture in under 12 hours

Yesterday I traveled through maybe eight hundred years of Japanese history, from the oldest sword in the Samurai Museum to Harajuku, an area about as current as you can get. We started the day at Meiji Shrine, which I wasn’t expecting to like nearly as much as I did. It’s my favorite thing we’ve done so far. It was cold and rainy all day, but I actually preferred the shrine like that; it felt very Studio Ghibli and the atmosphere was more muted and reflective. The shrine was somehow both ornate and spare and we wandered slowly through it. Walking out through the entrance gate, I felt like I’d traveled to another world.

But I hadn’t come back to the Earth I expected. Half a block away was the entrance to Takeshita-dori, one of the most famous streets in Harajuku, Tokyo’s center for crazy fashion and teen culture. It was pretty much the polar opposite of Meiji Shrine. Shops everywhere selling cheap and bizarre clothes (platform sneakers four inches high, samurai underwear, leather, leather, leather), bright colors everywhere you turned, and money constantly changing hands. Each store was playing terrible EDM that was probably supposed to pump you up. In Daiso, the dollar store, there was a wall of Crocs that I could smell from half a room away. Everywhere I turned, there was something new and absolutely wild.

After being thoroughly overstimulated by Harajuku, we ate lunch at a conveyor belt sushi restaurant. I tried ikura (salmon roe) for the first time, and I was weirded out by how much it reminded me of boba in the bubble tea shops back home.

From there, we walked to a samurai museum. The whole way I was looking around and taking photos; it felt like Times Square on every block. The lit-up signs and umbrellas brightened the rainy day, and even the pedestrian walk lights made it feel more vibrant. Once we got into the museum, I had Vampire Weekend’s “Giving Up the Gun” stuck in my head, since the lyrics (about Japan’s isolationism and return to using swords instead of guns) described most of what we were seeing, which was pretty cool. I’d heard a lot about samurai but never learned in-depth about their history. The elaborate weapons stood out to me, and I found it funny how the most interesting ones were just decorations for high-class homes.

Then it was time for period whiplash once again, as our next activity was a robot show. Apparently these are a thing in Tokyo, although I’d never really heard of them. It was absolutely wild: imagine the most crazy and overwhelming show you can think of, then add some remote-controlled robot floats and put it a couple of feet away from your face. They had to ask people in the front row to move their food and drinks off their tables because they would get hit. At first I had trouble warming up to it, but I ended up having a lot of fun. The area around was crazy too, and it perfectly matched pictures I'd seen of Tokyo. I'm set for years with phone backgrounds with the number of photos I took of the rainy streets.

After that exhausting experience, we had dinner at a department store, where Aurora met up with Rio, her KJ guest from freshman year. Not only was it nice to see Rio again, but she was incredibly helpful, because my friends and I ate dinner at a confusing restaurant and would have been completely lost (and probably really rude) had she not been there to help us. We talked about everything we’d seen that day and enjoyed some tonkatsu. It was a really nice way to cool down after a day that felt years long. Back at the hostel, I took pictures out the rain-covered window of the Tokyo skyline at night. I’ve been captivated by it each time I look at it; it makes the lack of sleep and the communal showers worth it. I wish we had more time in Tokyo, but our two days there were perfect.

Day 4: sun?!??????!!?!!

11:35 pm, Oirase Keiryu hotel

This was our last morning in the hostel, and I ate my breakfast in front of one of the big windows on the 19th floor. I sipped my coffee and drank in the view, knowing this was the last chance I’d get to do so. For the first time since we arrived, there was a break in the clouds and a tiny bit of blue was just starting to show. The city had been endless before, but I could see the mountains way off, faded blue. By the time we left the hostel, the sun was out in full, and the buildings were glowing. Even the sidewalks felt beautiful.

In Ueno Station, waiting for our first bullet train, we bought bento boxes and onigiri. Mine was full of mysterious foods and I was determined to try them all. I can’t say I enjoyed all of them, but at least I know how they are now. The shinkansen was much more like a normal train than I expected in terms of noise and movement, but the view was beautiful. We passed through the city into fields and then snow. The mountains came closer and into clearer view.

It was exciting riding the bullet train not only because they’re so cool but because we had an entire unit in class on them. I recognized what the announcements and signs said about the arrivals and departures and locations. It was another “this is real” moment.

I keep having those and feeling like I have to remind myself I’m in Japan. When you have a lucid dream, you’re supposed to keep thinking about it, because you may forget and slip back into normal dreaming. I have the same feeling. It’s real, but it’s so crazy to me that I’m here that sometimes it’s hard to believe.

On the shuttle bus after the train, I sat next to Aurora and we shared headphones. For an hour and a half we listened to the Black Keys, the Shins, and Gorillaz - music we knew and bonded over before - and I felt completely at home. Even in this strange place that I’d never imagined before, inside a cramped bus, I was with some of my favorite people in the world, and everything was all right.

It was a bizarre change arriving at the hotel, because where Tokyo was bustling and digital and fast, Oirase Keiryu was the opposite. The lobby was hushed and the snow serene. We had our first downtime (apart from transportation) since the trip started, which I had badly needed. Our dinner was a fancy buffet with all the dishes you could think of and all excellently made. We all wore yukata to the meal, and I was both comfy in my clothes and overwhelmed by the class of it all.

I was exhausted after dinner and we took a bus tour to see illuminated frozen waterfalls. I had been looking forward to it, but the bus was dark and warm and the sound of the rain was so calming that I couldn’t keep my eyes open. Luckily, I wasn’t the only one.

I’m so surprised that we’ve only been here for four days. It feels like two weeks already and we’re not even halfway through. I could return home now and be satisfied (although the thought of returning home makes me sad). We’re just doing so much every day. But the quietude of Oirase is helping me slow down and recharge, which I never think I need until it’s too late. I’m looking forward to learning more about this side of Japan!

Day 5: this place is suspiciously nice

11:26 pm, Oirase Keiryu hotel

Today was by far the most chill day I’ve had. At Oirase, we ate an amazing buffet breakfast. I tried and failed to eat a fried egg with chopsticks and continued my streak of salad every morning. We got snow last night (the forecast was 5-8 inches and I’m not sure what the actual amount was), and caught in the branches of the trees it looked like white flowers. The whole place surrounding us is beautiful, with a river rushing around shining stones and snow-covered mountains on all sides. Yesterday evening the rain dripped from the trees and it glistened like diamonds.

After breakfast I worked on previous blog posts and homework. My roommates were in the onsen, and it was nice to have some time to myself. When it was time for lunch, I had apple curry, and it was one of the tastiest things I’ve ever eaten. The food here is so good, I feel absolutely spoiled. I definitely won’t be able to drink American apple juice again. (Apples are a regional specialty.)

We had to eat our lunch quickly, because right afterwards we headed out to a nearby ski resort. We didn’t ski, though -- instead we took the lift up and enjoyed the scenery. Soon, an intense snowball fight broke out. It was juniors vs. seniors, of course (and I think we definitely won). We thought the senseis would be upset with us, but after a group photo, they actually encouraged us to continue. I have never thrown snowballs so passionately. I think I missed my targets more than half the time, but What Matters Is That We Had Fun™️.

Damp and exhausted, we trekked back to the hotel and I got ready to go snowshoeing. They told us it would be a beginner course, but we ended up descending and then scaling a drop that was maybe twenty feet. I wasn’t expecting to have as much fun as I did. I ended up with a slight burn on my hand from grabbing snow without gloves, but it was worth it.

Later, I did some studying and went to dinner. It was our second and final dinner at Oirase, so I made sure to try everything I’d missed the previous night. Afterwards, I tried the onsen for the first time. It was way nicer than I expected, and really cool that it was outside. I felt completely relaxed afterwards, and hung out with Aurora and Jada in their room while laughing at memes and listening to music.

The day was both quiet and rewarding, and I’m grateful and still surprised we had the chance to experience it.

note: not many photos from today because i didn't leave the building that much :(

Day 6: shrimp tails are like fingernails, apparently

Today we left Oirase Keiryu for our other super-nice Aomori hotel, Aomoriya. We woke up early to finish packing (I was too tired to do it last night), but I overslept slightly and arrived disheveled at breakfast. Everything was just as good as before, but I had to speed-drink my coffee since we left very soon for a bus tour of Oirase. It was only an hour, but it felt shorter. It traced a similar route as the illuminated waterfalls tour had, but this time I was much more awake and it was lighter out. Our guide showed us pictures of the area in spring, summer, and fall, and I thought it was even prettier then. I do like the snow, but I definitely prefer the warmth and green of summer. Guess I’ll just have to come back!

Once we returned to the building, we moved our bags downstairs and then boarded another bus for a six-hour tour of Mt. Hakkoda, the tallest mountain in the area. I had no idea it would be so long, but it flew by. First we visited another ski resort and again did not ski. We took a gondola ride up to the top, where we could see pretty much nothing. Everything was completely white. It was snowy and we were in a cloud; the buildings were frosted over. I didn’t remain outside for long; we took a photo and then I and some friends ran back in to warm up, followed pretty quickly by everyone else. We visited a soba restaurant for lunch (where Sensei made an absolutely unappetizing observation that made it to today’s blog title) then walked over to an onsen building. The building was somewhat shabby, but I definitely liked it better that way, all wood planks and tatami and paper. About half the people stayed down in the gift shop and the other half (mine) went up to the indoor baths. They were the hottest thing I’ve ever been in, but it was still so relaxing. It was the most chill I’ve ever been with a racing heartbeat. I love the feeling of getting out of the onsen; where it was freezing before while you walked in, now you’re comfortably warm.

After the bath, my knees were weak and I felt just loose. Luckily we had an hour’s bus ride back to the hotel to pick up our luggage. I fell asleep and I was far from the only one.

Aurora and I have a tradition of me giving her my apple stickers at lunch. I bought a couple of apples from the hotel shop, gave one to Asia, and gave Aurora the sticker from the one I ate. You can see the video on her blog. It encapsulates an important part of the trip for me: no matter what I’m doing, whether it’s completely new or absolutely mundane, I’m doing it with friends.

When we arrived at the new hotel, we had to leave pretty soon for dinner. We watched an elaborate performance of local music and dance, taken from Aomori festivals. It was all fascinating and well-made and somewhat overwhelming. Our dinner was also huge and I could barely make it through half of my food without feeling sick. I managed to finish it fine, though, and some of it was really good, especially this beef stuff that we cooked at the table (I’m not sure of what exactly it was). Afterwards I took many photos of the restaurant and the area surrounding it because of all the beautiful paper statues and lanterns. After prepping for KJ presentations, my friends and I went down to the onsen. It was outdoors and beautiful, with stone and trees and floating lanterns. I wished I could have taken pictures; it was dreamlike with lights and steam rising off the water. Again relaxed, I returned to my room.

I definitely enjoy the whole bathing multiple times a day thing. I’m worried, though, because the homestay crept up on all of us. We meet our students the day after tomorrow. I don’t feel ready, and I don’t suspect I will then either. But that’s okay! That’s what the trip is for! That's what I’ll tell myself, at least.