Personal Project 2- The "LichtenBurn" Machine

Independent Project Sophia Vona

Semester 1 Engineering Design 1

Overview:

My personal Project Choice for the Second Semester of Engineering, Grade 9, was a Lichteberg Machine. Conducted by a transformer, it uses 2k volts of energy to burn Lightning-like figures across a wooden surface, also known as "Fractal Burning", as a means of creating artwork. It evolved through a number of different iterations to make it the safest, most effective version possible, and the process I went through to do so is illustrated below. Enjoy!

Personal Project Daily Journal

Research:

3 ideas:

1. My first idea was to make a wall art design similar to the one linked below with the CNC bot, with lights and patterns. I wouldn't do a skull, as this is their company logo, but maybe a silhouette of something I find interesting, and put LED's on the back to shine through the cuts in the wood. I got my idea from this design by Wicked Makers on instructables: https://www.instructables.com/id/Backlit-LED-Skull-Sign/

However, something this big would be fairly difficult to mount on the wall. Especially if I put LED's on the back. I would probably have to make a lot of compromises with the design to make sure it could stay up. But, I would be incredibly excited to get to make my own artwork using skills I had learned in engineering. I like the idea of making something beautiful with the practical skills I have learned in the classroom.

2. My second idea was a cryptex, a special type of puzzle box used to keep its contents secure. It requires entering a pass code and spinning rings that when lined up correctly, open up. I had read about this concept before, but thought about making it my personal project after finding this design of it by Da3da1u5 on instructables: https://www.instructables.com/id/Laser-Cut-Cryptex/

However, I experimented a lot with gears in my first personal project and found them to be very difficult to align correctly. The lock mechanism of the cryptex would be similar to gears, and it can be very easy to mess up the enitire system of gears with a simple error. But, I would be very excited to do this because it would be challenging for me and I know I would be challenging myself I know would be hard and require my to really work hard on

3. My third Idea is a machine that allows me to create what is known as a "Lichtenberg Figure." A lichteberg figure is a type of fractal burn, the machine would burn lightning like patterns into wood. It would utilize a transformer and its high energy output to create these patterns. I found someone who created a setup for lichtenberg burns to use on their guitar on instructables by Thunderstruck studios: https://www.instructables.com/id/Glowing-Thunderstruck-Guitar/

However, the high voltage could be potentially dangerous if I am not very careful with my design. Also, most of this project would consist of wiring different components, which I do not have much experience in. But just like in my second project idea, I like knowing that I would be pushing myself and learning in the process. I would also be able to create something artistic, and hopefully use these patterns on other projects I may make in the future.

Final Project Choice

I chose to ultimately go with the Lichtenberg Figure Machine. I chose it because it was something entirely new to me, and I liked the idea of experimenting with something out of my comfort zone that I knew I would learn from. The successful project should be able to burn Lightning Like designs on wood safely and efficiently by using the power of a transformer. It will be different because I would include both a number of safety measures(to protect against its high output voltage which will be generated from a microwave oven tranformer, as seen in the deisng) and add some elements to make it a bit more like a product that could be used easily instead of just a rig. I have included a diagram to the left of the very first mock-up sketch and the reasons behind each component, as well as a cleaned up final design sketch at the bottom.

This was done on a whiteboard with the help of my teacher. A more detailed description of all the parts is seen below in the Design Section:

Design Specs:

Here is the original design for this project. The two main differences between my project and the one I found online are the safety features and the box, which I explain below with photos from the original mock-up of the design, originally done on a whiteboard. **Note: This design changed throughout the course of the project.

Switches: red. Override: blue

Solid state relay: yellow. Arduino: green

Safety Switches and Solid State Relay

The first part of the plan was to include two switches that must be held down at the same time to allow power to flow through the circuit. This ensures both of your hands will be unable to move and potentially touch a dangerous component while the circuit is being powered, if you try the device will shut off.

It also includes a solid state relay which has the ability to limit the voltage, it will be controlled by an arduino to ensure that even after the precaution of the buttons, the voltage flow could be controlled. The arduino will also attach to an override button, a worst case scenario fail safe to shut everything down.

The box was not actually very visible in the sketch, but this was the basic idea.

Box

It also included a wooden block to act as a covering, which would contain all the high voltage parts and the wood which the lichtenberg design would be burnt onto. It would also include sensors that, when triggered, would send a message to the arduino to cut the power, to further ensure nobody could touch it. Lichtenberg figures also require probes on to conduct the electricity, and since this block would limit maneuverability the probes would be built into the box. However, this would greatly constrain the types, size, and shape of wood that could be used with this device, and limit the patterns. In my research I saw that the best final products came when you were able to maneuver the probes and the wood. Also, this idea was conceived to be a part of a large piece of wood, and in the interest of versatility this box was eventually cut out of the design. But it was a fundamental part of iteration 1.

Microwave Tranformer Oven

The main component needed to make a Lichtenberg Figure is a Transformer. The one I am using is a Microwave Transformer Oven, which I obtained from one of my teachers but can be purchased online or found in a microwave. A neon sign transformer can also be used. It takes an input of 120 volts in a primary coil (standard wall outlet) and ups the voltage to 2000 volts, which comes out of the secondary coil. The secondary coil will be attached to two 10 AWG wires, both five feet long, to withstand the high voltage. These wires will be connected to alligator clips, which in turn will hold brass nails to act as “probes” and direct the current around the wood. The other side of the Transformer, the input terminal (primary coil) will be connected to the power, as well as all the switches and the other hardware. There are other components, which will be described more, but this is the most important. I spent this time researching this information and learning about the connections and the proper way to wire the transformer.

Testing the Transformer:

To get a proof of concept before actually wiring up the transformer, my teacher and I put together a rudimentary setup that would utilize the power appropriately, but would still need additional components before it could be used safely and efficiently. For example, this setup involved plugging the transformer directly into the wall without any ways to switch it on or off if there was an emergency as well as taping the wires to two sticks, as they had nothing to attach to yet, (they will be attached to alligator clips and then clipped onto nails in the wood so we don't have to hold them to control the design) and wanted to procure results while still having safety in mind.

Steps followed:

1. Make sure Transformer is not connected to an electrical source in any way.

2. Locate the positions of the wires you need. On a transformer, there is a primary and secondary coil. Primary is the output power, (connects to wood) and secondary is the input (connects to outlet). Two wires will connect to leads protruding from the secondary coil. One for the output will protrude from the primary coil, and the other from the output will connect to the transformer itself to connect the circuit. The place to connect to the transformer would be one of the holes at the bottom (figure 1) In our case, The primary coil already had a number of wires protruding from it. We already knew that the circuit between the wire had to conduct a high current, so we used a multi-meter and tested the connections to see if any of them yielded a resistance that would match up with the 2kv this transformer produces. Once we foud the correct one, we clipped the other ones and covered them with electrical tape.

3. Connect the wires to the leads in the secondary coil and to the lead and ground on the primary. To do this, find a wire connector that fits the leads and crimp it to the wires you will be connecting (I used 10AWG, depends on voltage and amperage) (Figure 2) For the connectors in Figure 3, we actually soldered the connectors together,and then proceeded to cover them in electrical tape and a heat shrink for insulation. The wires that went to the input coil were attached to a 120 VAC wall outlet so we could connect the tranformer to a power source.

4. Connect both output wires of transformer to long, insulated wooden poles.

5. Plug transformer in, while holding poles slowly move ends of the wire together and wait for an arc to jump between them. Slowly move wires away from each other and sustain the arc. If arc does not appear, it is possible something was wired incorrectly or the transformer is broken.

(Figure 1)

(Figure 2- Primary coil wires)

(Figure 3- Secondary coil wires)

IMG_8470.TRIM.MOV

Arc in action

Other Details

Here are some other more specific details about my project:

What the project will aim to do:

The final product should utilize a Microwave Oven Transformer and the design shown above to create Lichtenberg Figures, a type of Fractal Burn Resembling Lightning, in wood. It will do this in the most efficient way possible that is still safe(see safety designs) and has the desired effect of creating something aesthetically.

Maximum Cost:

The transformer required to create the output voltage (Microwave Oven Transformer) can cost anywhere upwards of $100. Fortunately for me, one of my teachers had one already that he had removed from an old microwave, and was willing to let me use. If this was not the case I would not have chosen this project. Another option would be to use a Neon Sign Tranformer, but these can cost around the same amounts. I did not want to spend much more than $50 on materials, however I ended up a little over, because this project was going to be plugged into a wall outlet(120 VAC) and have high output (2000 volts), so I needed some very heavy duty materials. Note that I have attached a list of all items below in the section entitled "Instructions and Project Management." Fortunately I have access to my school's Fablab which gave me access to a lot of the wires, connectors, arduinos and other materials that I needed, but I have included links to all other materials for anyone trying to replicate this project.

Dimensions:

The dimensions of the box are 7" by 7" by 6.5". The box( (in the most recent, above design) was made to house the transformer and have the buttons on top, with wires protruding out of it. The actual size of the wood that will have the design on it may vary, but this is approximately the size of the project.

Materials:

A complete Materials and Tools list is seen below. It shows the amount of all the materials, but also the materials minus the transformer(the most expensive part) Refer to section about "Maximum Cost" for more information

It would be best to keep my project inside, as it does have a lot of wires and the box I created to contain them should work fairly well to cover them all, but I would not want to have it exposed to any rain or strong natural forces that could break it.

This project will be portable when not in use, however it does need to be plugged into an outlet for a power source to be utilized. It has a box to make things a little easier to move, but also there is room for components to move around within the box and the main component, the transformer, is a little heavy so to avoid dropping or breaking it, moving it should be done carefully.

This project is not connected to the internet or Bluetooth. If I wanted to go back and change this design I may make it so you can turn the circuit on and off with a phone or other electronic device. This way, you can stay even further from any high voltage parts when working the machine, thus making it safer.

Project inputs:

There are a few different inputs on this device worth mentioning:

The input for power will be a standard electrical outlet, 120 VAC
The input for the circuit will be two buttons, which both need to be on in order for the machine to work.
The input for the transformer itself is referred to as the secondary coil, it will connect to the 120 VAC and the two buttons.

Project Outputs:

The Output power of the transformer is 2000 volts, and will connect to the wood to produce the Lichtenburg figures

Project differences from inspiration

The main differences in my project and the project that inspired it come from two key parts:

The first is all the buttons, switches, and safety components I have built in. These were not present on the inspiration for this project and allows for a higher degree of control over the machine and ensures safety at all times.

The second is the box I have designed to house this project in, as well as ensuring safety it makes the transformer more of a finished product by hiding wires and rounding off the project so it is more of a product.

Tools:

All of the tools I needed for this project were in the FabLab. The full list is above, under materials but includes things like solder, wire strippers/cutters, crimpers, the CNC shop bot, a soldering iron, helping hands, a screw driver, and more

Instructions and Project Management

To make sure I had a plan for this project I created a spreadsheet with a project Timeline, Including a Task Analysis of what I needed to do, a Timeline of when I needed to do it, and a list of Materials and Tools with prices.

The Task Analysis provides a basic list of instructions, but for the full process I went through and a description of all my major problems and decisions as they happened refer to my daily journal. I have included a more final list of instructions formulated after the fact that is included below.

Engineering 2 Project Timeline: Sophia Vona

Design Changes

The above Work shows the original Design I came up with. However, this is not the Final Design. For a number of different reasons, described more in detail in my daily journal, I changed a number of different things, and at the end of this project redrew the design to represent the changes made. The generals and reasons for each component remain the same, however the changes are as follows:

1. The override button/solid state relay rig controlled by an arduino was completely scrapped. After I started trying to upload the code and connect the arduino to the solid state relay and wiring that I had at the time, I began running into issues. The issues were mostly minor, concerning specifics I couldn't quite figure out but probably could have if I wanted to continue to use this setup. For example, I believe I was having trouble uploading the code to the micro controller I was using as it had the same functionality as an arduino, but was technically a slightly different brand. However, while talking through these issues my teacher began to notice the complexity of this feature and explained how it would require much more complicated wiring where a simple button would do the job just as well. So this part was completely scrapped.

2. The box was originally designed to have separate compartments to keep the transformer separate from the arduino and Solid state relay. After deciding not to use the arduino system, the box only needed to house the transformers and have the buttons at the top. I had tried to create a special slot fit that I could cut on Aspire so the box could have these different components, (requiring three or four pieces of wood to intersect in the same place, this was not something I believed slot fit could do at the time) but decided a fingerjoint box would be easier after deciding not to use the arduino and realizing I only needed a regular, square box. Also, I had included a drawing with only a basic box frame so the sides of the box could be plexiglass. This was mostly for aesthetic purposes, but I decided I was being far too ambitious and decided to do a simple wood box.

3. I only used one switch. This is just because of the materials I was given. Unfortunately, not all my materials were ordered on time. Fortunately my teacher was still able to get me other materials, however they came so close to the project due date that I had to have an extension to finish it. Also, the switch I received was not a momentary switch, it was a normal switch like one you would expect to press that would turn lights on and off, and it worked perfectly fine in place of the momentary switch.

Diagram of Design after Alterations (note: this section and image were made after the completion of this project for the purposes of clarity in this Digital Portfolio. Read more about the changes and the projects the created in my Daily Journal)

Instructions:

1. Follow steps under Testing The Tranxformer (Similar to these, just with different wiring) for a proof of concept that your transformer functions as it should.

2. Make sure you have gathered all necessary tools and equipment

3. Identify the type of transformer you have and decide how you will need to wire it. You need to identify the input terminals and the output terminals. We verified the connection points by using a multi-meter, to test where there was a connection and current was flowing and where there was not. We found out that the specific model of Transformer I used had a primary coil as the output and a secondary coil as the input. The secondary coil had two leads attached to it, one live terminal and one neutral terminal. It needed the input wires to be attached there. The primary coil had multiple prongs, but we were able to find the one that connected to the bad of the transformer. This connection point actually serves as the ground, which is why it does not protrude from the coil like the other connection point, and is necessary in making the circuit connect. So we were left with two input terminals (one live and one neutral) one live output (from the opposite, primary coil) and one ground.

4. Clip all extra wires on transformer (If there are any) and cover with electrical tape.

5. Refer to wire diagram. You need to ensure the correct wire goes to the correct terminal of each of your switches, so live goes to live, neutral goes to neutral, and ground goes to ground. As is illustrated, some terminals on the switches will not only be connected to the outlet but to the terminals on the other switch, this is so the electricity in the hot wire flows from one to the other, then the transformer, and back through the neutral wire to complete the circuit. Ground is just to ensure that if the circuit is overloaded with too much power, the electricity has another path to escape back to.

The method behind connecting each wire to each terminal is as follows:

1. Strip the wire

2. Create a hook in the stripped wire that looks similar to a "candy cane."

3. Hook candy cane around the screw, and tighten screw with screwdriver.

IF you need to connect two wires to a terminal

1. Make a candy can hook.

2. Put solder over the parts that you are going to connect, so they already have something to stick to when you try to solder them later

3. Solder wires together

4. Hook candy cane around the screw and tighten with screwdriver.

Continue to repeat these steps until you have connected all wires to all switches. However, it may be smart to leave some off, depending on what kind of a box you plan on using to house all components. Tighten them after putting all wires into correct place, so you do not have to redo any of your connections later. See video below for time lapses of me doing my wiring

6. Connect the wires to the leads in the secondary coil and to the lead and ground on the primary. This requires wire connectors that fit over the leads to be either soldered to the main wires or crimped to them. Make sure to cover the exposed wiring with electrical tape and slide a heat shrink over it. (I used 12/2 AWGwires) For connecting the wire to the ground, you will need to screw a connector to the hole at the bottom by wedging it between a screw, washer, and bolt.

7. Connect alligator clips to primary coil (output) ends of transformer. The alligator clips had some parts that I could press over the wires to get the to stay. Make sure there is insulation over your alligator clips and they are conductive, as they will later be connected to brass nails embedded in the surface of the wood to direct the current to the wood.

8. Export FingerJoint box to aspire and create toolpaths for shopbot, or find some other way to create it. Note: This box includes many sharp angles on the interior that can cause a shopbot's bit to break. Because of this, each of these angles needs what is referred to as a "dog bone", a way to modulate the shape of the corner so the shopbot can cut it that looks a bit like a dog bone. Because I had so many of these angles, I downloaded an add-in to fusion written by programmer DVE2000 on Github that created dog bones automatically for you. This can be downloaded and installed to do this from this link https://github.com/DVE2000/Dogbone. There any many tutorials going through the step by step process of how to download a file such as this, but dog bones can be made by hand as well. The diameter of the bit we are using is 1/8th of an inch, and the diameter of the dog bones corresponds to this diameter. Link to box: https://a360.co/2VLrEqg

8 1/2. One problem that arose with my box is that when I cut the files, I did not cut all sides to scale. A teacher in the FabLab checked over my CAD design, so you can use the box above, however I most likely made a mistake in scaling them in the program I used to create the shopbot toolpaths, Aspire. All sides fit except for two, and we followed these steps to create new sides

1. Cut wood with table saw to appropriate length and width of side that must be replaced.

2. Measure and mark spots to place screws in box. Screw through both pieces of wood with drill bit that mathes the diameter of the screw you are using. The go back to top piece of cardboard and screw a slightly smaller hole so you do not split the material when driving the screw in. Widen the sides further so the screw has some treads to stick to on the top.

3. Use drill press to create circular entrances for wires to come in and out flow the box.

4. This part actually concerns the top of the box not the sides we had to recreate, however, the slots were ever slightly to small for the switches to fit. To remedy this, I was able to use a jigsaw and shave a bit off the sides. Create screw holes for the switches as well

9. Put all wires and parts inside box in appropriate spots. It may be necessary to unwire specific parts in order to do this.

10. Test transformer by following steps in the "LichtenBurn Machine Workflow" as is illustrated below. Once you have a proof of concept, close box completely by screwing the two sides together.

Step 3 and 4

Step 5

Box (Step 8) Second photo has top and bottom invisible so interlocking pattern is visible

Link to Box: https://a360.co/2VLrEqg

and Link to Dogbone Creator: https://github.com/DVE2000/Dogbone

Step 8 1/2 (Sides)

Lichtenberg Machine (Being tested, before screwing sides together)

Washed Lichtenberg Figure

Lichtenberg Machine Workflow

Wiring Time Lapse

1st Lichtenburn lapse.MOV

1st Time Lase

2ncd lichtenburn lapse.MOV

2nd Time Lapse

3rd lichtenburn.MOV

3rd Time Lapse

Box Being Cut Time Lapse

IMG_0770.MOV

Challenges

I faced many challenges throughout the course of this project. Some of these were things I could not control, while others were mistakes that I made and learned from.

Unfortunately, the plan above did not correspond exactly to what I had created in my task analysis. Over time as this project went on, I continued to run into more and more difficulties, especially with the arduino and the override button, so I went to speak to my engineering teacher about where I was going wrong. While we were discussing the issue, he pointed out the redundancy of using the arduino and the solid state relay when I already had two switches as precautions, as it was over complicating my project. He explained to me why the added redundancy would not be helpful, and so for the sake of simplicity we decided it would be better to only include the two switches. Additionally, I realized the wiring would be very difficult to put together, and as I was now a bit short on time I was unsure if I would be able to finish it on time. Because of the time constraints, I had also found another arcade style button in the Fablab which I believed would function under the 120 VAC input of the output, but I could not verify this as I did not have the original boxes they were bought in and could not find a serial number to check online. My teacher advised me to wait until her verified I could use it to wire it to the transformer. So, I continued to work on the box and abandoned the software part of the project. Unfortunately, my teacher was only able to get the parts that I would be able to use by 5/9/19, a Thursday, and the project was due 5/13/19, the following Monday. I had worked on preparing the wires so I could do things quickly after I got the parts, however, the wires I had been using at that point were spares in the FabLab, and my teacher also found heavier duty wiring (12/2 gauge) that was new, would definitely withstand the current and be completely safe, so I had to redo all of the wiring that we had already prepared to test the transformer. Unfortunately we could not come in to work on our projects over that specific weekend, so I worked on it as much as I could Friday during my class, lunch break, and briefly after school until the Fablab closed. And finally, I had to make a few adjustments to the box, firstly because it was designed to accommodate all the software components in a compartment separate from the transformer so nothing could break, but making this compartment lead to a very difficult modification on a slot fit that would be quite difficult to do on the shopbot (Figure attatched). So, I had to change the design of the box to cut out the extra compartment that otherwise would have been watsed. I also need to make sure the wiring of the switches is completely covered by the box, but the switches can still be accessed from the outside. I was able to achieve this by creating slots at the top of my box. This materials issue heavily impacted my project.

After I did get the materials, the two main things I had to do were wire the circuit and create the box.

The wiring posed its own unique problems as I had never attempted wiring anything of this magnitude. My only experience wiring was with jumper cables, breadboards, and 5v input arduinos. With 120VAC, the materials were a lot different and I had to ask my teachers how to put them together. I found out that the way you wire an outlet to switches and thicker wires, such as these, one generally follows these 3 main steps:

1. Cut and strip the wire

2. Create a "candy cane" bend in exposed wire with pliers and hook this bend around a loosened screw in the switch.

3. Tighten screw with screwdriver and cover with electrical tape.

However, to get the current to flow through two switches I needed my wires to flow from one to another. So, I had to solder together wires before twisting them onto the screws. I detailed this process above, but this is something I had absolutely no idea how to do when I started. It took a little trial and error with the pliers, but I was able to figure it out. Furthermore, I wasn't sure in the beginning exactly which lead went to which wire. My teacher was able to help me by showing me that with a multimeter, I could test where the connection between switches and circuits was, and through that I could logic out the path he wires needed to take. We were able to come up with this wire diagram:

After I figured out what I was doing and how I needed to do it, I was able to accomplish this step fairly quickly. The next challenge came with fixing the two sides of my box. As I had scaled them wrong with the shopbot, they needed to be replaced. I describe how to do this in the instructions, but between using the shopbot, making these new sides, and the fixes I had to make to the already cut sides, (see intructions above) making this box took me a very long time. Furthermore, in order to put the box together needed to have wires and switches going in and out of certain designated holes. In order to do this, I had to unwire a few of the wires I had done earlier. As I described, I wasn't entirely sure how to do this so it took me a little longer than it should have. However, by the end of this I was confidant in my new skills in wiring a switch and with my new ability to create parts of a box manually, with tools I hand't used much or at all before, i.e. the table saw, jigsaw, drill press, etc.

Conclusion

Overall, while I experienced many hiccups in the road to creating my final project, I was content with where it ended up. Some of the biggest issues for me included learning how to put together the parts in order for them to function. This was a challenge for me, as I had to learn about everything from how transformers worked so I could find the proper connection points for my circuit to the proper way to using a jigsaw and a drill to make changes to my box. I am, however, very appreciative that this project forced me to learn skills such as these. I feel it really challenged my abilities because most of the skills and knowledge I needed for this project came to me through working on this project. I also made many missteps along the way that forced me to problem solve to fix. For example, I cut my box on the CNC shopbot incorrectly in two different ways twice, and as I was pressed for time had to adapt and cut two new sides manually to fix this. It has taught me more about the things to look out for in CAD and about how complex even the simplest parts can be very hard to create.

One of the most important things I learned this project happened to go off of that idea that even the most simple plans can take a long time to execute. This is a concept that came up in my last project, but in this project once I got all my materials and design sorted out, I kept finding new problems that needed to be fixed. Unfortunately, I only received my materials the Thursday before the project was due and thankfully received an extension, however I personally think there are ways I could have been much more efficient with how I spent my time the following few days. For example I had to stop to unwire some parts after cutting and assembling my box so they would all fit, so it probably would have been more helpful to do the box first for these cases, however, there were also some features of the box that depended on the way I wired the materials, and if I had done the wires first I would have still run into problems. The issue here arises when one attempts to put together separate parts of a project without a clear enough picture of how each component will fit together to make the entire project. And though some of these errors were mostly unnoticeable, others took time to correct and made this project more complicated than it needed to be. I feel if I had kept a better grasp on the big picture of how all the parts interact while also focusing on te logistics of each individual component, I probably would not had nearly as many missteps and would have been much more efficient with this project.

There is also the matter of my design plans. If you look at my final design (I have included a drawing for clarity on the next slide) it is very different from my original plan. Entire components were scrapped, (the override button/ solid state relay system controlled by an arduino were not present in this project at all, even after I dedicated time to doing the research and writing the programming to make it effective because I made a mistake in choosing to include it and it ended up being too complicated for this project) and because of issues with finding materials, I kept trying to find other materials that would work in lieu of the ones I needed. Because of that, I kept having to change plans to fit the limitations of the specific materials, and ended up including extraneous details in my designs in later versions that sometimes turned into a problem. For example, I ended up changing the design of the box many times as the project changed and even then, I ended up with some random parts that truly serve no purpose with this iteration of the design. It would have been incredibly helpful if I had sat down after I had determined what materials I would actually be working with, in order to draw up a new sketch. I made sure to plan a lot in the beginning, but when I needed to take a day to reassess my plans I did not, and faced the consequences for this later. This taught me the importance of not only developing a plan but continuing to update and reform it for the best end result.

Looking Forward

In the future, I will try to adhere to the lessons I have learned over the course of this assignment. But along with that, there are a few specific design changes I would make.

Firstly, I would change the box from a finger joint to a slot fit. This was just impractical and unnecessarily complicated, as I learned, as a normal tab box would have worked just as well and taken a lot less time.

Secondly, I would replace the alligator clips with stronger and bigger ones. One limitation of these is that they barely hold onto the probes, and are not very sturdy. Stronger ones would likely conduct more current and with enough insulation, would allow us to control them more than we currently can. BIgger ones could be held or leaned against other pieces of wood, allowing the probes to be moved instead of embedded in the wood. This would make patterns easier and solve the issue of the hole the nails leave behind in the wood.

I am also interested in using what has now been dubbed the “LichtenBurn” machine to create artistic works. Unfortunately I did not have much time to experiment with the best way to use the machine and what can be done with the wood afterwards, however I believe it has a lot of artistic potential. So, I plan to continue using this device and learn what yield the best results in order to further this device’s creative potential.

I am also interested in using this machine for commercial purposes, and I hope once I have learned how to better use this machine I will be able to create high quality products I can sell. As it is the end of the year I do not expect I will be able to pursue this in the near future, but come next school year I hope to be able to do this. In conclusion, I was very happy with the way this project turned out.

Thank you for reading!

Images