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The previous chapters focused on the basic techniques of multipitch climbing. This chapter covers several advanced techniques. You won't need to apply all of these techniques every time you multipitch, but they're essential for safety and for your flexibility in a wide range of situations.
Some of these techniques can be used when a multipitch isn't going the way you'd like, for example, if your climbing partner is scared, can't get through a section of the route, or has forgotten something. These aren't standard situations, so there's no standard solution either. It's important to always stay calm, keep thinking clearly, and choose the right approach yourself.
5.1 Tying off the munter hitch
5.1 Tying off the munter hitch
In certain situations, you'll want to use an HMS but still (temporarily) need your hands free to do something else. In that case, you can tie off the HMS. To do this, you tie the brake rope around the climbing rope with a slipped hitch (mule knot). See the figure. After tying the slipped hitch, slide it up against the HMS. The slipped hitch keeps the brake rope from feeding through the HMS, while still being releasable, even under (heavy) load, by pulling it loose. This is essential, since the climber's full weight is usually hanging in the (tied-off) HMS. You release a slipped hitch by pulling on the loose tail end.
Note: a slipped hitch can potentially also be pulled loose by accident, which is why we always add a second knot to back up the slipped hitch. To do this, take the loop of the slipped hitch and tie it off around the climbing rope with an overhand knot. You can also first pass the loop through the HMS carabiner before tying it off around the climbing rope with an overhand knot, see the figure. Either way, you need a fairly large loop from the slipped hitch to be able to tie an overhand knot in it.
For the techniques in Chapter 6, you'll also need to tie off an HMS using prusik cord. It's a good idea to start practicing this at home already!
Afbinden HMS.MP45.2 Lowering with a plate / unblocking
5.2 Lowering with a plate / unblocking
When belaying with a plate, you can't simply lower the follower. This is because the plate locks and prevents rope from being paid out once it's loaded.
Wiggling the carabiner
Wiggling the carabiner
If the follower only needs a very small amount of rope, it's possible to wiggle the carabiner that the rope runs around up and down (see the figure). This lets the rope feed through the plate in small increments each time, allowing the follower to descend (very) slowly. Whether this works, and how well, depends on various factors. With a perfectly round carabiner, for example, this won't work at all.
Plaite wrikken.MP4Unblocking
Unblocking
If the above isn't possible, or you need to lower someone a long distance, the only remaining option is to unblock the plate. You do this by shifting the belay device from a vertical position into a horizontal position, which fully removes the plate's braking action. Note: this is only safe if you take over belaying your follower another way, for example with an HMS. Unblocking a plate works as follows.
Preparation:
Tie a knot in the brake rope (for example, an overhand knot) to free up your hands. Clip an HMS carabiner into the belay loop of your climbing harness and load the brake rope into it with a Munter hitch. Lock the carabiner. This becomes your new belay.
Now take a prusik cord (or sling) and pass it through the small eye of the belay device (i.e., the plate). Run both strands of your prusik through a point on the belay station that's higher than your belay device (for example, the top carabiner of the belay station). If needed, you can hang an extra carabiner or quickdraw on the belay station for this redirect point. Now make sure you can stand in the loose end of your prusik, by tying an overhand knot at the right distance.
Unblocking:
You're going to take over your partner's belay onto the HMS knot, so get a firm hold of the brake rope for this first! Undo the knot you made in the brake rope beneath the plate. Communicate to your partner that you're about to unblock the plate. Step into the end of your prusik and gradually put more and more weight onto it, until your plate starts tilting toward horizontal. At that point, the rope can run freely through the plate, and you can lower your follower in a controlled way using the HMS.
Involve the follower
Involve the follower
Unblocking involves a lot of separate steps. Sometimes it's feasible to enlist the follower's help instead. If that person can take the tension off the rope and then climb down a short distance, it becomes possible to feed some rope through the plate from above at the same time. Make sure you keep a firm hold on the brake rope while doing this.
Some common problems:
Some common problems:
Unblocking is only possible if the redirect point is higher than your belay device, since you want the small eye to be able to reach the same height (or higher) than the large eye.
To get the plate to tilt, you ideally want the redirect point positioned slightly to the side (on the side of the small eye). For this reason, it can sometimes be a good idea to place the redirect point at the backup instead.
Make sure your plate can move freely. For example, check that your lifeline isn't running across it, or that the plate isn't caught or jammed against something.
It can be difficult to overcome all the friction in the system, especially if you're light. In that case, you can try pushing off the wall with your other leg. Others have had success connecting the prusik to the belay loop of their harness (so they don't have to stand in it) and then pushing off the wall with both legs.
5.3 Giving rope assistance
5.3 Giving rope assistance
Sometimes your follower isn't managing to get through a section of the route. In that situation, belaying extra tight usually doesn't help much. Instead, you can give rope assistance. With this technique, you take in more rope while using less force. It works as follows:
While holding the brake rope with one hand, use your other hand to tie a short prusik loop with a prusik knot around the climbing rope. Clip a snapper (or carabiner) through the prusik. Make sure the snapper sits close to the climbing rope. You can shorten this distance by tying an overhand knot in the prusik. Now run the brake rope through the snapper and grab the brake rope at the new end. Slide the prusik as far as possible toward the follower and make sure the prusik knot "bites." With this setup, you take in three times as much rope as your follower moves upward, so (friction aside) taking in the brake rope only takes a third of the force! This lets you effectively assist your follower (although they'll still need to keep climbing themselves).
This technique works the same way regardless of whether you're belaying with a plate or with HMS.
5.4 Prusiking
5.4 Prusiking
Sometimes you'll want to go back up, but climbing isn't possible. For example, because you're not being belayed by someone else (such as during a rappel), or because you've ended up hanging below the route after a fall. In such cases, you can ascend along a taut rope using two prusiks. If you've forgotten how the prusik knot works, click here: Prusik knot. Prusiking works as follows:
Make a self-belay prusik. This is just like the one you're used to from rappelling, but a good deal longer. Attach the prusik to the climbing rope with a prusik knot and tie it off with an overhand knot at the right length (roughly an arm's length), then attach it to your belay loop with a carabiner. Use a safebiner for this if possible. Alternatively, you can use a short rappel prusik and clip your (adjustable) lifeline into it.
Make a foot prusik. Take a second prusik and attach it to the climbing rope below your self-belay prusik with a prusik knot. This prusik should be set as short as workable, that is, as short as possible while still being able to fit your foot into it when you slide the foot prusik up against your self-belay prusik.
Stand up in your foot prusik and slide your self-belay prusik as far up as possible.
Hang in your self-belay prusik and slide your foot prusik up.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you're at the top.
Using the prusik knot as a lifeline
Using the prusik knot as a lifeline
While prusiking, you're relying on the braking action of the prusik knot as your lifeline. In principle, this can be done safely, with the right precautions. In any case, always make sure the prusik knots "bite" properly.
Are you using the prusik knot as your lifeline? Then tie an overhand knot in the climbing rope just below the knot. This way, you can never slide down any further than this overhand knot if you accidentally unweight the prusik.
In other situations, it can also be useful to use the prusik knot as a lifeline. On an extended belay station, for example, you'll have made a very long lifeline. By attaching a short prusik to this and connecting the other end of it to your belay loop with a carabiner, you create a (very) long adjustable lifeline. This lets you move around the ledge more safely, since you can shorten or lengthen your lifeline as needed.
5.5 Rappelling in a multipitch
5.5 Rappelling in a multipitch
In OVS, you learned how to rappel, but rappelling multiple pitches in succession requires more attention. When rappelling multiple pitches, you're often off the rope entirely and, along with your climbing partner, hanging from just two bolts in the rock for an extended time, without any intermediate protection. This means that making a mistake while rappelling often ends badly. A significant portion of fatal climbing accidents are rappelling accidents. Rappelling is often done under time pressure, in confusing situations, and at the end of the day when you're tired (or sometimes even when it's already dark). That's why it's important to have a fixed procedure for rappelling, with consistent safety checks, to prevent accidents.
Below is an example of efficient and safe multipitch rappelling. Climbers A and B are together at the belay station after having climbed several pitches, and want to rappel all the way down.
Climber A rappels from belay station 1 and:
Checks whether belay station 2 is the correct one and is safe from rockfall.
Checks whether the belay station is sturdy enough by hanging in it via the lifeline and loading the anchor with their full body weight.
Detaches from the rappel (slide the prusik down 5m, but leave the prusik knot tied, so you don't end up without a rope. If something were to happen to climber B, you'd otherwise be left hanging completely alone, without rope, halfway up a cliff).
Climber B at belay station 1:
Notices the rope is free because the tension is released, and makes the rappel.
Checks during the rappel that the rope runs cleanly along the rock everywhere (watch out for: rockfall, sharp edges, cracks/bushes where the rope could get caught).
Meanwhile, climber A at belay station 2:
Pulls up the remaining rope to belay station 2, untangles it, and removes one end knot.
Pre-feeds this strand through the new rappel point and ties a new knot in the end. Make sure this is done before climber B starts rappelling down.
Positions themselves so there's room for climber B at the belay station.
Climber B arrives at belay station 2:
Attaches itself to the anchor and makes sure their lifeline runs below the rappel rope, so the rope can be pulled through easily afterward.
Checks that they're actually secured by their lifeline before removing the rappel device and prusik from the rope.
Climber A:
Removes the knot from the other end and pulls the rope through to the middle marker.
The rope comes down from the previous rappel point. Tie a new knot in the end again.
On to the next rappel.
Practice questions and assignments for Chapter 5
Practice questions and assignments for Chapter 5
What are the steps for unblocking a plate? What are the essential safety points to keep in mind at each step?
Identify the differences between multipitch rappelling and single-pitch rappelling.
How thick do you want your prusik cord to be, and why?
Scenarios for Chapter 5
Scenarios for Chapter 5
For a scenario, the assignment is always: How should you and your partner act to stay safe? What steps do you take, and in what order? What do you need to pay (extra) attention to in this situation? What do you discuss with each other?
You're belaying your follower with an HMS from the first belay station. Your follower is halfway up and really wants you to take a photo. How do you handle this?
How would the situation be different if you had been belaying with a plate?In the photo, you notice your follower forgot the bag. It really needs to come up with them. How do you handle this?
How would the situation be different if you had been belaying with a plate?After many attempts to coach your follower, it really doesn't seem like they're going to be able to get through the route. How do you handle this?
During the third pitch of a multipitch, you're belaying the follower. Suddenly the rope stops being taken in, and when you look up, you see that your partner is hanging unconscious at the belay station.
a. What do you do before calling emergency services?
b. Emergency services are on their way and ask whether you're able to safely reach your partner. Doing so could potentially save your partner's life. What are your options? Does it matter whether your partner was belaying with HMS or with a plate? In what way does it matter?You're rappelling and are the first climber to arrive at the belay station. The belay station is positioned diagonally relative to the belay station above it, and you can no longer hear or see your climbing partner. How do you handle this?
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