Personal gear

Everything discussed in Chapter 2 of the OVS syllabus also applies to multipitch climbing. Read that chapter first. 

2.1 Karabiners

At least one HMS carabiner

In the OVM course, you'll learn to belay using a Munter hitch (see Chapter 4). For this, you need a so-called HMS carabiner. You can recognize this by the letter H in a circle. See the photo. Make sure at least one of your carabiners is an HMS carabiner, and that it doesn't have a sefety clip (you can often pull the clip off a safebiner). 

Three small carabiners

For setting up a belay station, it's handy to have two smaller carabiners, since these are easier to clip through bolts/hangers. For the same reason, it's advisable to use a third small carabiner for your lifeline. 

Other carabiners

Other carabiners, such as the ones you used in the OVS course, can also be used for this course. Simple locking carabiners are always a good choice, since they're reliable, straightforward, and easy to use. With a total of five carabiners, you'll have enough for this course, but it will sometimes require a bit more thinking or swapping around. One or two extra carabiners is therefore comfortable to have. See also Required Gear. 

2.2 Belaying devices

Plate or 'guide mode' belaying with a tuber 

For the OVM course, you need a belay device suitable for use as a plate, also known as 'guide mode.' This requires a large eye attached on one side of your device and a small eye on the other. Suitable devices include the Petzl Reverso or the Black Diamond ATC-Guide (see photos). Just as in the OVS course, the device must be able to take two strands of rope, for example when rappelling. 

Assisted-Braking Devices

Belaying with an assisted-braking device is safer than belaying with a tuber in many circumstances. Several OVM techniques can also be performed with an assisted-braking device, but not all of them. That's why a lot of attention during the course goes into learning to work properly with tubers. Instructors can also tell you how to use assisted-braking devices effectively while multipitching, so you're certainly welcome to bring one to the course if you have an assisted-braking device that can take two strands of rope. 

2.3 Double rope

In certain situations, you'll want to climb with two strands of rope at the same time. One advantage is that you have two ropes with you, so if one gets damaged (or lost), you're not immediately stuck. It's also possible to tie both strands together when rappelling, allowing you to cover substantial distances in one go. During the course, you'll practice using double rope. More on this in Chapter 7. 

Half Rope

If you have a suitable double climbing rope for this, you can clip one strand into, for example, all the quickdraws on your left, and the other strand into all the quickdraws on your right. This way, even with a zigzagging route, you maintain low rope friction (see the figure). This is the so-called half rope technique. Rope suitable for this has the 1/2 symbol on it. Similarly, "normal" climbing rope, also called single rope, has the 1 symbol. 

Twin Rope

Another type of double rope is the so-called twin rope. Its individual strands are more dynamic and often (quite a bit) thinner, but for that reason are not suitable for clipping as separate strands! You do have the option of connecting the strands when rappelling. Twin rope has the symbol of two intersecting circles and is often used, for example, in ice climbing.

There are, of course, many other types of rope as well, including rope that can be used as both half rope and twin rope. If you're planning to buy rope, pay close attention and find out beforehand exactly what you need!

At the ASAC, we use both 50m and 60m double rope.

Table of contents

Chapter 1: Introduction to multipitch climbing

Chapter 2: Personal gear

Chapter 3: The belay station

Chapter 4: Belaying in a multipitch

Chapter 5: Special techniques

Chapter 6: Rescue techniques

Chapter 7: Double rope