What will you encounter on a route?

The nature

When climbing outdoors, you climb on rock. But that really says too little, because the rock (the type of stone) varies much more than what you find in an indoor climbing gym. Different areas often have completely different types of rock, which makes the experience totally different. For those interested, here is a PDF from the NKBV (in Dutch) with various types of rock you’ll encounter in well-known climbing areas.

Important: Never let loose stones fall! If something does fall, shout ROCK downwards (or in other languages: French: CAILLOU, German: STEIN, etc.). If you are standing below near the rock and hear a warning, move as quickly as possible toward the rock wall, do not look up and keep belaying. Stones usually bounce off the wall and land a few meters further away. Also, if you drop any climbing gear, shout ROCK as well. If a stone feels almost loose, try not to pull on it.

You will also encounter plants and animals while climbing. Leave them as undisturbed as possible. A tree or root is usually not part of the route.

Besides the natural elements of a route, there are also human-made ones. To climb a route, you need bolts for your quickdraws and a top anchor (in Dutch: standplaats) at the top. Climbing areas also require maintenance. You contribute to this with your climbing membership card (klimjaarkaart). You can also become a volunteer to help out physically. This is often a lot of fun, and your help is much appreciated. For more information, check with the NKBV. Or contact the NSAC, which organizes such days together with SAC members.

Bolts and top anchors

Most bolts you’ll encounter are drilled bolts (in Dutch: boorhaken). These bolts are installed in the rock by first drilling a hole. After that, there are two common ways to fix a bolt. 

Glued bolts (in Dutch: lijmhaken)

Here, the hole is first filled with epoxy, after which the bolt is inserted into the hole. The epoxy hardens completely within a few hours to days (depending on the epoxy used and environmental conditions). Most glue-in bolts have a round eye shape. We also call this type a round bolt.

There is much to say about the pros and cons of different types of bolts. Here, we’ll limit ourselves to the main points.
One advantage of glue-in bolts is that the hole is completely sealed, preventing water from entering. Moreover, a climbing rope can be directly put through the round eye (necessary for abseiling). A disadvantage is that installing glue-in bolts requires considerable technical skill from the person placing them, and the bolt cannot be used immediately. Generally, placing glue-in bolts is also more expensive than using expansion bolts.

Expansion bolts (in Dutch: expansiehaken)

These work like a plug or wedge bolt. When you tighten the bolt, it expands and clamps itself firmly in the rock. A hanger is then attached to this bolt. You clip your carabiner to this hanger. We also call this type of bolt with a hanger a sharp bolt.

An advantage of expansion bolts is that they grip immediately and thus can be used right away. This is also very convenient for the person who is placing the route. Additionally, the hanger can be replaced separately if needed. A disadvantage is that the hole is never completely sealed, so moisture can penetrate and potentially cause damage over time. Furthermore, with a sharp bolt, you can never directly put a climbing rope through it because the hook is too sharp and will damage the rope.

Top anchors

A top anchor in its simplest form consists of two bolts placed relatively close together. By connecting the bolts (see chapter 5), one bolt acts as a backup for the other. So if one bolt fails, you won’t fall down. Sometimes the bolts are already connected by a chain (see the first photo). There are many variations of top anchors, often even multiple ones within a single climbing area. During weekends, you will practice with these. 
In general:

• Use only round parts to thread your rope through. Often this is also the lowest point when the bolts are already connected with a chain. 

• If you plan to leave a rope hanging for a longer period, for example when setting up a top rope (see chapter 5), use your own equipment to put the rope through. This helps to reduce wear on the climbing area’s fixed gear.

Pitons (in Dutch: mephaken)

Sometimes you will encounter so-called pitons. These are metal spikes jammed into cracks in the rock with a hammer. Some climbers, especially in big-wall or trad climbing areas, still use pitons when no other protection is available. However, hammering in pitons can damage the rock. In sport climbing areas, this practice is generally not considered ethical or safe. Nevertheless, you may come across such pitons and often, these are completely rusted brown. The only person who can truly assess whether a piton is solid is the one who placed it. To avoid an unnecessarily long fall, it can be wise to clip into a piton, but do not trust it blindly.

Note: sometimes pitons are cemented into the rock, similar to glue-in bolts. This makes them safer.

Gear left behind in the route

Sometimes, while climbing, you’ll come across gear left behind by other climbers. In general, it’s not safe to use this gear without knowing its origin!

In difficult sport routes, you often see all the quickdraws already hanging because someone is projecting the route and doesn’t want to clip and unclip the gear every day. Leave these quickdraws hanging. If you find a quickdraw, carabiner, sling, or prusik cord in a route, it’s best not to use it unless you knot it's origin and are certain it is safe. You can leave abandoned gear hanging, place it at the bottom of the route, or clean it up yourself.

You will often find so-called maillon rapides (quick links) in top anchors, see the photo. These usually belong to the climbing area and are meant to be used. They turn sharp bolts into round ones, are relatively inexpensive, and can be easily replaced when worn out without having to replace the bolt itself.

If you find a maillon halfway up a route, it was probably left there by another climber. If you can open the screw, you can remove it. Abandoned maillons can loosen or rust over time, creating an unsafe situation. You can also report such findings to the manager of the climbing area.