Climbing techniques

Knots

When climbing, you use rope—and therefore knots. This ancient technique is still relevant!

These knots (except the fisherman's knot) are prerequisite knowledge for the OVS course. 

Overhand knot (in Dutch: zaksteek)

An overhand knot is the simplest knot you can make. See the photo. You can also tie an overhand knot in a doubled up rope, which is called a double overhand knot.

An overhand knot is quick and simple. The downside is that after heavy loading it is harder to untie than, for example, a figure-eight knot.

You can use an overhand knot to connect the loose ends of your prusik cord. Make sure not to leave the ends too short, because under heavy load an overhand knot can move a little. An alternative is the fisherman's knot (visserssteek).

Stopper knot (in Dutch: stopknoop)

A stopper knot is an overhand knot with an extra pass-through. This makes the knot bigger than a regular overhand knot and harder to untie (especially after loading). The stopper knot is used to tie at the end of a rope to prevent the rope from slipping through a bolt or belay device. 

Figure Eight knot (in Dutch: achtknoop)

The figure eight knot you already know. See the first photo. For tying in at the climbing gym, you use a double figure eight follow-through knot. You can also tie a figure eight knot in a doubled rope. This immediately gives you a double figure eight knot, which is used in various techniques (see the second photo). 

Girth hitch (in Dutch: ankersteek)

A girth hitch is used to attach a sling to your climbing harness. See the photo. 

Prusik knot (in Dutch: prusikknoop)

With the prusik knot, you attach your prusik loop to one strand (or two strands) of rope. See the photo.

If the knot is tied correctly, it will “bite” under strong force and won’t slide along the rope anymore. With little force and some manipulation by hand, the knot can move freely along the rope.

You will use the prusik knot as a backup during abseiling.

The number of “wraps” in the prusik knot can be varied. Depending on the diameter of the climbing rope, the diameter of the prusik loop (and environmental factors), more or fewer wraps are needed for the prusik to function properly. Always check that the prusik “bites” when you put force on it. 

You're at the top! And now what?

At the top of a route, you can encounter many different setups. We’ve already talked about two separate bolts or two bolts connected by a chain (see chapter 3). In some climbing areas, you’ll find a so-called pig tail (first photo, in Dutch: varkensstaartje) or two clip hooks (second photo) at the top of the route. Both are “open” connections, making it easy to pull your rope through. Very practical, and your partner can lower you down over them at the end of the route.

They are not suitable for setting up a top rope! How to set up a top rope will be explained later. 

Your partner is going to lead climb the same route

If your climbing partner wants to lead climb the same route, your partner can simply lower you down. In the case of a top anchor with two separate bolts, you will have clipped a quickdraw into both bolts with your rope running through them. This creates a backup. Of course, you don’t need to remove the other quickdraws, since your partner will be leading after you. With this way of lowering, little can go wrong—even if one bolt were to fail. While lowering, you are continuously connected to multiple points on the rock, just as during the lead climbing. 

Sometimes you're the only one who can or wants to lead climb the route. In that case, you can set up a toprope for your fellow climbers. Alternatively, you can clean the route (in Dutch: ombouwen) if you’re the last person to climb the route. Cleaning is a way to take all your gear with you and still get down safely (see Cleaning a route). 

Setting up a toprope

Always use your own climbing gear for this, and don’t let the rope run directly through the bolts. This prevents wear on the bolts and helps preserve the climbing area. When setting up a toprope, make sure the rope is not hanging on only one bolt, so use a backup. If the route traverses sideways quite a bit, you might want to leave a quickdraw somewhere in the route. But generally, you take all quickdraws out of the route.

Two situations are possible:

1. The two bolts of the top anchor are already connected, for example with a chain. 

   • Method A: Put a carabiner in the lowest bolt or maillon of the anchor (not to the chain) and thread your rope through the carabiner. Always use a safebiner and check that it is locked. Then your partner can lower you down. See the first photo. 

2. The two bolts of the top anchor are not connected. 

   • Method B: Make your own connection between the two bolts with a sling. To do that, put a carabiner into each bolt and thread the sling through both carabiners. The sling should not be completely tight, but also not form a big loop. This prevents a big shock load on the backup bolt. You can shorten the sling with an overhand knot. Thread the rope through the carabiner in the lowest bolt. Always use a safebiner for this and check that all carabiners are locked. Then your partner can lower you down. See the second photo. 

Cleaning the route from lead climbing

When cleaning, you run the rope directly through the top anchor, allowing you to remove all your personal gear and leave the route “clean.” With a top anchor that has two unlinked bolts, run the rope through both bolts or maillons. If the two bolts are already connected, running your rope through one point is enough.

But how do you put the rope through something while you’re still attached to it yourself?! Follow the step-by-step plan below. In this description, we assume two bolts (or maillons) with enough space that are not connected to each other. 

1. Attach your lifeline to one of the bolts. Check that your carabiner is properly closed. 

2. Pull up some extra reope, enough to go through both bolts and tie a figure-eight knot. Meanwhile your partner keeps belaying you! 

3. Run the rope (doubled) through both bolts. 

4. In the loop that you have passed through both bolts, tie a figure-eight knot and clip it to your belay loop with a carabiner. 

5. Untie the original figure-eight knot (the one you climbed with) and pull the loose end through both bolts. You can place this loose end over your shoulders or wrap it around your waist. 

6. Ask your partner for a "block" and make sure the load is off your lifeline. 

7. Do one final check: Is the rope running through both bolts? Is the figure-eight knot correct and the carabiner closed? Only then unclip your personal anchor. You have now cleaned the anchor. 

See the video.

Sometimes there's not enough space to run the rope doubled through the bolts. In that case, you pass a single strand through the bolts. Proceed as follows: 

1. Attach your lifeline to one of the bolts. Check that your carabiner is properly closed. 

2. Pull up some extra reope, enough to go through both bolts and tie a figure-eight knot. Meanwhile your partner keeps belaying you! 

3. Tie a double figure-eight knot in the rope and clip it to your belay loop with a carabiner. This way, the rope cannot fall down when you untie yourself. 

4. Untie the original figure-eight knot (the one you climbed with) and pass the loose end through both bolts. 

5. Tie yourself back in to the loose end and untie the temporary double figure-eight knot you made earlier. 

6. Ask your partner for a "block" and make sure the load is off your lifeline. 

7. Do one final check: Is the rope running through both bolts? Is the figure-eight knot correct and the carabiner closed? Only then unclip your personal anchor. You have now cleaned the anchor. 

See the video.

Cleaning the route from a toprope

Cleaning a toprope at the end of the climbing session is also done by cleaning the anchor. Make sure that the bolts remain connected until you have completely finished cleaning and checking everything. After climbing on a toprope, you won’t have all your quickdraws still in the route as intermediate protection, unlike after lead climbing. The basic principle is that you are always connected to at least two bolts. Other than that, the steps are the same as described above. 

Cleaning on a single bolt (retreating)

Sometimes you only have one bolt available — for example, if you can’t finish a route and don’t want to leave any gear behind. In that case, you can create a backup with a prusik on the rope. Start the same way as above by clipping your lifeline into the bolt. Now, attach your prusik to the belayer’s side of the rope with a prusik knot. Clip the prusik to your belay loop with a carabiner. Then continue with steps 2 through 7 from above (but on a single bolt). Check that your prusik knot is correctly tied and the carabiner is locked before unclipping your lifeline.

While being lowered, slide the prusik knot down the rope as you go. If the top bolt fails during lowering, you will still be attached to the belay rope via the prusik, clipped into the nearest quickdraw.

Sharp bolts

You cannot clean on a sharp bolt (or multiple sharp bolts), as this could damage the rope. However, you can put a carabiner in the bolt and clean from that. In this case, you will have to leave gear behind. In any case, do not leave a maillon behind, as this can be inconvenient for those who will climb the route after you. 

Abseiling

Another way to get down is abseiling (literally: “roping down”). In this method, you belay yourself without a partner. Be aware that abseiling is not allowed everywhere. When abseiling, there is a greater risk of causing loose rocks or other debris to fall. Your view of the ground—and whether there are people below—is often limited. In other areas, abseiling is actually preferred. It might also be the case that the approach brings you to the top of the route and you have to abseil before you can start climbing. In certain areas, the rule is that the last climber must always abseil to avoid wear on the top anchors. Some areas even have a dedicated abseil line (abseilpiste), where no climbing takes place. See the topo and the illustration on the side.

Accidents with abseiling happen regularly, almost always due to inattention or incorrect technique. Another factor is that people are often less alert at the end of a route and/or at the end of the day—and that’s exactly when you’ll be abseiling. These mistakes can easily be prevented by checking yourself and each other.

Preparation

In order to abseil, you need the full length of the rope. This is only possible if your partner is no longer belaying you. For this, you need a top anchor with two connected bolts, to which you attach yourself using your lifeline. If the bolts are not connected by a chain, use a sling to connect them (see Setting up a Top Rope). Only after you have checked that everything is properly set up, can your partner stop belaying you! 

Running the rope thourgh the top anchor
To abseil, the rope must be passed through both (round) bolts. If the two bolts are connected by a chain, passing the rope through just one point is enough. Follow these steps: 

1. Pull up some extra rope, enough to pass through both bolts plus about one meter extra. 

2. Tie a double figure-eight knot in the rope and secure it to your belay loop with a carabiner. This prevents the rope from falling when you untie yourself. 

3. Untie the original figure-eight knot (the one you climbed with) and pass the loose end through both bolts. 

4. Tie a knot in the rope at a considerable distance from the end. The knot should be large enough so it cannot slip back through the bolts. The stopper knot, (double) overhand knot, or (double) figure-eight knot all work. Make sure the knot is not close to the end of the rope and is tightened well. 

5. Untie the double figure-eight knot and pull the rope through the bolts until you reach the middle mark on the rope. Make sure the end with the knot reaches the ground and does not get caught somewhere in the rock. Always check that no one is underneath you. In some cases, it can be helpful to bundle the rope and throw it down from the rock. 

6. Pull up the rest of the rope (but not through the bolts) so you can also tie a knot on the other end of the rope. Again, tie the knot at a good distance from the end and tighten it well. Lower this end to the ground as well. 

Building the abseil
For abseiling, you use your belay device and a prusik as a backup. You attach the belay device to an additional attachment point on your lifeline. If you use a sling as a lifeline, an overhand knot halfway along the sling is sufficient. If your lifeline has no extra attachment point, use a short sling tied with a girth hitch around your harness to attach your belay device to (see lifeline in chapter 2). Then follow the steps below:

1. Tie your prusik with a prusik knot around both strands of the rope and secure it to your belay loop with a safebiner. 

2. Pull some rope between your prusik and the top anchor and pass both strands of the rope through your belay device. The climber side of your belay device should face the top anchor, and the brake side should face the loose ends of the rope strands. 

3. Clip a carabiner through both strands and the loop of your belay device. Attach this carabiner to the additional attachment point on your lifeline. 

Checking the abseil
Before you remove your lifeline, check the following five points. Make it a habit to always check your abseil in the same order. The order below is from top to bottom: 

1. Bolts. Is the rope passed through both bolts? Are the bolts round and free of damage? 

2. Belay device. Is the carabiner on your belay device locked? Is the carabiner clipped through both strands of the rope and through the belay device? 

3. Prusik. Is the carabiner on your prusik locked? Are the knots in your prusik correct? Does the prusik knot 'bite'well? 

4. Distance. Is the distance between the prusik and your belay device large enough so that the prusik cannot enter your belay device while abseiling? The photo above shows a correct distance. 

5. Knots. Are there knots at the end of the rope? If possible, also check if the rope has reached the ground. 

And go!
Hang into the abseil and then release your lifeline. It takes a little practice to get your full weight on the abseil and off your lifeline. Only release your lifeline when your full weight is in the abseil.
With one hand on the brake rope and one hand near the prusik knot, you can descend in a controlled way (see image). Slide the prusik knot down to lower yourself. Keep your feet wide apart for stability and watch where you’re going.

Once both feet are on the ground, remove all your gear from the rope. Be careful! The belay device will be very hot from friction. Start by removing your belay device first, because prolonged heat in one spot is bad for the rope.

If multiple people are descending on the same rope, it’s common to communicate with the person above once you have removed all your gear: “Rope free!” (in Dutch: touw vrij!) If you’re the last person, then remove the knots from the rope and pull on one of the rope strands until everything comes down.