Turkey
Turkey
The recipe refers to Pavo. This word had meant peacock. Prof. Nadeau addresses this in her translation:
Footnote Regarding “Pavo”
While there is no indication whether pavo refers to a New World turkey or a medieval peacock, Barbara Ketchem Wheaton gave her expert opinion that turkey replaced peacock almost instantly, was in fashion and most certainly would be the bird referenced for this recipe. (“Reading Historic Cookbooks”). Apart from the social, fashionable reasons for the switch Ketchem Wheaton also hypothesized that flavor was another reason. Peacocks are not as flavorful and were most certainly served for their magnificent plumage. Nuria Polo Cano also documents that the word pavo from the sixteenth century on refers to the Mexican guajalote. Finally, I. Jacinto Garcia also affirms that the first appearances of the American turkey are in Martinez Montino’s and Hernandez de Maceras’ cookbooks.
What kind of turkey is appropriate?
The turkeys that Spaniards would have access to in 1611 would be wild birds, not our modern big breasted butterball types.
If you have access to wild turkeys, that would be best. I don’t so I’m using a modern breed.
Per Viscountess Else Hunrvogt (who is a poultry veterinarian in modern life) a bird over 20 pounds live weight wouldn’t be likely to fly. Dressed weight is 75% to 80% of live weight, so I recommend a bird that is 15 pounds or less.
Carolyn Nadeau’s translation of Francisco Martinez Montino’s, The Art of Cooking, Pie Making, Pastry Making, and Preserving: 1611
page 143
Translation:
Chapter two. On all types of roasts
Sear a turkey on a grill after cleaning it very well and skewer it with two reed skewers or another type of wood that doesn’t give off a bitter flavor. Then, place it on its spit and wrap it in paper placing thin strips of fatback under the paper. Salt it and you can stick some cloves into the breast, although some prefer not to. For sauce for this turkey, take two ounces of shelled almonds that have been toasted in a pan; grind them. Roast two hen livers or the turkey liver that have been thoroughly cooked and grind everything together. Add two ounces of sugar, and when everything is ground together, then with broth that has no fat and pour it all into a saucepan and bring to a boil two or three times, always stirring with a big spoon. Then strain it through a sieve or a cheesecloth. Add a little ground cinnamon and a little lemon juice. This sauce should be served cold.
Redaction:
Take a turkey of no more than 15 lbs and lightly salt the surface. If you like, insert a few cloves into the breast (I skipped this since I’m not fond of cloves)
Sear the turkey on a grill.
Wrap the turkey in strips of bacon, I used 12 oz. I used toothpicks to affix the bacon to the bird.
Enclose the turkey in baking parchment (or a roasting bag). If using baking parchment, also use butcher’s twine to hold the package together.
If you have a rotisserie grill large enough for a turkey, run skewers through the bird and cook it on the grill.
If you do not have a rotisserie, place the wrapped bird on a rack in a roasting pan and roast. Be sure to rotate the packaged bird frequently (every 15 to 20 minutes).
For sauce:
Toast 2 oz shelled almonds and grind them.
Cook 2 chicken livers, or the liver of the turkey. Since the liver is to be ground, cook thoroughly.
Add to the almonds and grind more. Add 2 oz sugar and grind more.
Add lean broth (I used 1 ½ cup) and put all the ingredients in a saucepan. While stirring, bring to a boil three times (which will reduce the quantity of sauce).
Strain the sauce through a fine sieve or cheesecloth.
Add a little cinnamon (1 tsp) and lemon juice (2 tsp). This made 1 cup of sauce. This sauce is served cold.
Carolyn Nadeau’s translation of Francisco Martinez Montino’s, The Art of Cooking, Pie Making, Pastry Making, and Preserving: 1611
Page 559
How to present turkey
Pick up the turkey with a fork. Make a cut in the right leg on the inside and another on the outside so that both meet at the joint of the hipbone. Make another cut through the flesh, underneath, close to the bone, and another on the outside near the knuckle. Then another cut at the right wing from the breast down, and other right next to this one, also from the breast down. Next, do the same on the other side.
Because these birds are big, they require four slits in the breasts, as the breasts are big and two would be too few. Then make another two slits on both sides of the rump that go up to the middle of the backbone and another two on both sides of the neck that almost come together with the other ones. Then make a cut in the middle of the loin and with this it will release from the fork. Next, turn the turkey breast side up, sprinkle salt in the slits, and stuff bread slices between them.