Diego Granado

His Libro del Arte de Cozina, en el Qual se Contiene el Modo contains 762 recipes, the instructions for the household servants, plus instructions on carving. Taken in part from de Nola, but mostly from Scappi’s Opera, which is the source for 587 recipes. Later editions are: 1609 and 1614 

Online: Libro del Arte de Cocina de Diego Granado, Año 1614 can be found through http://allandalus.com/~apicius/ Also see this .pdf: http://tinyurl.com/bpyjoo8 

Diego Granado, Libro del Arte de Cozina, 1599

Translations by Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann)

 

Pare Hazer Rosquillas

To make rosquillas (little rings)

For forty egg yolks, a pound of ground sugar, and as much white wine as will fit in the shell of an egg, and a little anise, and a little cinnamon, and a little cow’s butter, and a little orange flower water. Knead everything with fine flour, and cast in what should be necessary to conform to the quantity of eggs. Knead with a light hand, so that you do not break the dough, which should not be very hard, nor very soft, but well pummelled, and being good, make the rosquillas the size that you wish. Have on the fire a kettle of water, and when it begins to boil, cast the rosquillas within, in such a manner that they do not go one on top of another, and cast them in until they ascend. Upon ascending they are cooked. Put them in some kneading troughs, and being cooled, remove them and send them to the oven to cook, which should be quite temperate.

 

Para Hacer Salsa de Zumo de Manzanas

To make sauce of the juice of apples

Take the apples, and without peeling them, grate them and extract the juice from them, as we said of the quinces; adding a little vinegar, and white wine, and take the clearest part, and for each pound of juice, put eight ounces of sugar, and cook it like the juice of the quinces, with the same spices.

 

Para Hazer Ajada con Nuezes Tiernas y Almendras

To make garlic sauce with tender walnuts and almonds

Take six ounces of tender peeled walnuts, and four [ounces] of fresh sweet almonds, and six cloves of boiled garlic, or one and a half raw, and grind them in the morter, with four ounces of a crustless piece of bread soaked in broth of mutton, or of fish which is not very salty, and once they are ground put in a quarter [ounce] of ground ginger. If the sauce is well ground, it is not necessary to strain it, but just thin it with one of the abovementioned broths, and if the walnuts were dried, let them be soaked in cold water, until they soften again, and can be cleaned. With the abovementioned sauce, you can grind a little bit of turnip, or of crisp-leaved cabbage well-cooked in good meat broth, if it is a day for it.

 

Cazuela de Salmon

Salmon Casserole

You must take the clean and well-washed salmon, and put it in a casserole with your spices which are galingale, and a little pepper, and ginger, and saffron, and all of this well-ground, and cast upon the fish with salt, and a little verjuice or orange juice. And let it go to the fire of coals, and then take blanched almonds, and raisins, and pine nuts, and all herbs. That is, moraduj, which is called marjoram, and parsley, and mint. And when the casserole is nearly half-cooked, cast all this inside.

 

Carrot-Cheese Pie

Torta de Zanahoria

Wash and scrape the carrots, and remove them from the water and cook them in good meat broth, and being cooked remove them and chop them small with the knife, adding to them mint and marjoram, and for each two pounds of chopped carrots [use] a pound of Tronchon cheese and a pound and a half of buttery Pinto cheese, and six ounces of fresh cheese, and one ounce of ground pepper, one ounce of cinnamon, two ounces of candied orange peel cut small, one pound of sugar, eight eggs, three ounces of cow's butter, and from this composition make a torta with puff pastry* above and below, and the tortillon [pie pan?] with puff pastry all around, and make it cook in the oven, making the crust of sugar, cinnamon, and rosewater. In this manner you can make tortas of all sorts of roots, such as that of parsley, having taken the core out of them. *The word used here for pastry, "ojaldre" ("hojaladre" in the modern spelling) means puff pastry according to my modern Spanish dictionary, and the etymology of the word (from hoja, "leaf") would seem to indicate that it is the period meaning as well. There is a recipe for a veal torta in the same cookbook which calls for the same kind of pastry, and gives instructions for making it:

 

To Make Puff Pastry Pies of Veal Neck

Take wheat flour and knead it with egg yolks, tepid water, salt, and a little bit of pork lard, and make it in such a manner that the dough is more soft than hard, and pummel it very well on a table, and make a thin torta, but swiftly, longer than wide and anoint all of it with melted lard which is not very hot and begin to roll up the narrow part, and make a roll the thickness of an arm which will come to be solid, in such a manner that it can be cut, then cut a round slice two fingers in thickness, and have separately another firm dough well kneaded, made from wheat flour, egg yolks, water, and salt without lard, and make of it a pie bottom which is of the bigness of the pastry, and put in it a mixture made as in the preceeding chapter [ie., the veal filling from the previous recipe], keeping the same order to make the mixture high and pyramid- shaped, because the cover that you make is of the same paste, in cooking it can better become puffed [literally, "leafed"], and before you put it in the oven anoint the pie with melted lard, which is cold and not hot, because it clings better to the paste, and then put it in the oven, which must be well swept, and clean, and level, and moderately hot, and especially the upper part, so that the said puff pastry can better puff, and as it begins to puff, anoint it with lard with a feather fastened to a small cane without removing it from the oven, which you will do two or three times, and being cooked you must serve it hot dusted on top with sugar, and if you wish you can put the broth which we have said in the previous chapter. And be aware that if the ceiling of the oven is low, that will be better, because all the puff pastries want the fire hotter above than below. Which you must beware of in the other pies with puff pastry. The recipe then goes on to discuss an alternate (and inferior) dough which is used in Rome, and other fillings that can be used with this pastry. Note that while the veal pie has puff pastry only on the top crust, the carrot torta calls for puff pastry in the top *and* bottom crusts. The "crust" of sugar, cinnamon, and rosewater I would interpret as a sweet topping for the upper crust. I haven't tried this myself, but it sounds tasty, and with the quantities given, it shouldn't be too hard to redact. Remember that medieval eggs would be smaller.

 

Zanahoria Rallada

Grated Carrot

You must clean the carrot of its peel, and then wash it, and grate it with a knife. And set it to cook in a kettle of water which has first been brought to a boil, and cook it a little while, and then set it aside and squeeze it. And have clarified honey and cast the carrot into it, and let it cook slowly, until it absorbs the syrup. And cast in the pine nuts. And it must be one azumbre of honey to six pounds of carrots, and when they are cooked cast in a little cinnamon, and ginger. And cast them into your box, and if you must decorate it, it must be with pine nuts.

 

Rellenos de diversas maneras de la carne magra del puerco fresco

Pork and Cheese Sausages

You will take ten pounds of the said meat without bones, without hide, and without nerves, fat and lean, and chop it with a knife upon a table, adding eight ounces of ground salt, six ounces of sweet dry fennel, four ounces of cracked pepper, one ounce of ground cinnamon, half an ounce of chopped cloves, and mix it all very well with your hand, adding four ounces of cold water and mint, and chopped marjoram, and let it all rest for four hours in a vessel of earthenware, or wood in a cool place, and take the membrane of the same pig well cleaned of hair, and soften it with tepid water, and from the said mixture with the membrane, make the sausages in the shape that you wish, and let them rest for two days in a dry place, and then roast them in a frying-pan with lard, or with melted fatty bacon, and serve them hot.With the same mixture you can stuff the pig's intestines, having first kept them in salt, and after two days they can be eaten. From the same well-chopped lean meat you can make sausages with the membrane or with the intestines, adding to the quantity of ten pounds of meat, a pound and a half of cheese of Parma, or of Pinto, and an ounce and a half of chopped cinnamon, and another ounce and a half of ground pepper, and an eighth of saffron, and half a glass of cool water, and three ounces of salt, and everything being well mixed, make the sausages with the membrane or the intestines, and cook them as we have said.

 

Para hazer macarrones, vulgarmente llamados fideos

To make macaroni, vulgarly called "fideos"

Take two pounds of flour, and one pound of grated white bread passed through the colander, and knead it with fat broth that is boiling, or with water, adding four beaten egg yolks to mix with the dough, and when the dough is made, in such a manner that it is not very hard, nor too soft, but that it has its perfection, and sprinkle both [sides of] the cheese grater with the best of the flour, and put the paste upon the grater, and make the fideos, and not having a grater make them upon a board, drawing the fideos [the length of] three fingers thinly, and put the least flour that you can, so that they remain more tender, and have a care that you do not feed it again, in such a manner that it becomes too soft or liquid, and when they are made let them rest a little while, and then make them cook in fat broth that boils, or in water in a wide vessel, and when they are cooked, fit them on plates with grated cheese, and with fresh buffalo cheese (which in Italy is called probatura) which is not very salty, also grated, and with sugar, and cinnamon, and morsels of fresh cow's butter upon the plates, in turn, the one and the other, and let it baste on the plate over the hot ashes.

 

Para Hazer Una Olla Podrida

To make an olla podrida

Take two pounds of salted hog gullet, and four pounds of de-salted shoulder ham, two snouts, two ears, and four feet of a hog, divided and removed the same day, four pounds of wild boar with the fresh intestines, two pounds of good sausages, and everything being clean, cook it in water without salt. And in another vessel of copper, or earthenware, also cook with water and salt: six pounds of mutton, and six pounds of calf kidneys, and six pounds of fat beef, and two capons or two hens, and four fat domestic pigeons. And of all these things, those which are cooked first should be removed from the broth before they come apart, and be kept in a vessel, and in another vessel of earthenware or of copper, with the aforementioned broth, cook two hindquarter of hare, cut in pieces, three partridges, two pheasants, or two large fresh wild ducks, twenty thrushes, twenty quail, and three francolins. And everything being cooked, mix the said broths and strain them through a hair-sieve, taking care that they should not be too salty. Have ready black and white chickpeas which have been soaked, whole heads of garlic, divided onions, peeled chestnuts, boiled French beans or kidney beans, and cook it all together with the broth, and when the legumes are almost cooked, put in white cabbage and cabbage, and turnips, and stuffed tripes or sausages. And when everything is cooked before the firmness is undone, taste it repeatedly in regard to the salt, and add a little pepper and cinnamon, and then have ready large plates, and put some of this mixture upon the plates without broth. And take all the birds divided in four quarters, and the salted meats cut into slices, and leave the little birds whole, and distribute them on the plate upon the mixture, and upon those put the other mixture with the sliced stuffing, and in this manner make three layers. And take a ladleful of the fattest broth, and put it on top, and cover it with another plate, and leave it half an hour in a hot place, and serve it hot with sweet spices. You can roast some of the said birds after boiling them.

 

Para Hazer Escudilla De Espinacas

To make a dish of spinach

Take spinach in the Spring, and wash them with many changes of water, taking the most tender part, and fry them with oil, or with cow's butter, or poultry fat. Afterwards, finish cooking them with poultry broth, and dried plums, and serve them hot with their broth.

 

Para Hazer Tortillon Relleno

To make a stuffed tortillon

Knead two pounds of the flower of the flour with six yolks of fresh eggs, and two ounces of rosewater, and one ounce of leaven diluted with tepid water, and four ounces of fresh cow's butter[3], or pork lard[3] which has no bad odor, and salt, and be stirring said dough for the space of half an hour, and make a thin leaf[4] or pastry[5] and anoint it with melted fat which should not be very hot, and cut the edges around, sprinkle the pastry with four ounces of sugar, and one ounce of cinnamon, and then have a pound of small raisins of Corinth, which have been given a boil in wine, and a pound of dates cooked in the same wine, and cut small, and all of the said things should be mixed together with sugar, cinnamon, and cloves, and nutmeg, and put the said mixture spread over the pastry with some morsels of cow's butter, and beginning with the long end of the pastry, roll it upwards, taking care not to break the dough, and this tortillon or roll must not be rolled more than three turns, so that it will cook better, and it does not have to go very tight. Anoint it on top with fat, not very hot. It will begin to twist by itself at one end which is not very closed[6], in such a manner that it becomes like a snail. Have the pie pan ready with a pastry of the same dough[7], somewhat fatty, anointed with melted fat, and put the tortillon lightly upon it without pressing it, and make it cook in the oven, or under a large earthen pot with temperate fire, tending it from time to time by anointing it with melted cow's butter, and being almost cooked, put sugar on top, and rosewater, and serve it hot. The pie pan in which you cook the tortillones must be wide, and must have very low edges.

Translator's notes: ...[3] Both of these phrases use the same noun: "manteca". This can mean either butter or lard. I have translated "manteca de vaca" as cow butter, "manteca de puerco" as pork lard, and undifferentiated "manteca" as fat. [4] "Ojuela" -- literally, small leaf [5] "ojaldre" (sometimes spelt hojaldre). Its etymology is also from "hoja" (leaf). The modern definition is puff-pastry.

The recipes I have seen for pies made with ojaldre call for a rich unleavened dough with eggs and fat, about half a finger thick. It coated with melted fat, rolled into a cylinder the thickness of an arm, then sliced into pieces two fingers thick. (Presumably these slices are then rolled out, though the recipe doesn't specify.) It's basted with melted fat during baking, the better to separate into leaves. ("Ojaldrar", one of those verbs which require a sentence to translate properly.) Some recipes call for the base or top pastry of a pie to contain a certain number of ojaldres.

This tortillon recipe seems to say that the dough can either be just rolled out thinly, or it can be turned into a sort of ojaldre (though they are not normally leavened, AFAIK). If the former, I don't think it is intended to be too thin, since the roll is only supposed to make three turns. [6] I gather from this that one end *should* be tightly closed, leaving the other to expand into a snail-like trumpet. [7] This pastry underneath seems to function as part of the pan, not part of the tortillon. It appears in other recipes as well. A non-stick cookie sheet might render it unnecessary.

 

Cazuela Moji

Chard Frittata

Take eggplants, neither very big nor very small, but middling, and open them in the middle and cast them to cook with your salt; and when they are well-cooked, drain them with a cloth which is rough; and then chop them a great deal, and cast them in a frying-pan or kettle and cast in a good deal of oil; and take toasted bread and grate it, cast it there within, and cast in aged grated cheese; and when it is stirred for a good while over the fire, have ground dry coriander, caraway, and pepper, and cloves, and a little ginger, and stir it over the fire; and cast in some eggs, and stir it over the fire until it is hard; and then take a casserole, and cast in a little bit of oil, and place it in [the casserole]; and beat some eggs with pepper, and saffron, and cloves, and some of the same toasted bread that is contained in the casserole, and some of the grated cheese; and make it thick and place it on top in the manner of a facing (94) and put your yolks on it; and coagulate it in the oven or with a cuajadera, which is an iron pot-lid with coals on top, and when it is coagulated, remove it from the fire; and cast on top of it a dish of honey which is very good and your duke's powder. This same casserole can be made from chard or carrots.

 

Escudilla de Mijo; Para hazer escudilla de mijo, o de panizo mach ado

Millet Polenta; To make a dish of millet, or of chopped panic-grass

Take the millet, or chopped panic-grass, clean it of dust, and of any other filth, washing it as one washes semolina, and put it in a vessel of earthenware or of tinned copper with meat broth, and cause it to cook with stuffed intestines in it, or a piece of salted pig's neck, to give it flavor, and when it shall be cooked, mingle with it grated cheese, and beaten eggs, pepper, cinnamon, and saffron. (You can also cook the said grains with the milk of goats or cows.) And after they shall be cooked with broth, letting them thicken well, they shall be removed from the vessel and shall be left to cool upon a table, or other vessel of wood, or of earthenware, and being quite cold, they shall be cut into slices, and shall be fried with cow's butter in the frying-pan, and serve them hot with sugar and cinnamon on top.

Mistress Brighid's Notes: At least half of the 16th century Spanish recipes end with the instruction to sprinkle the finished dish with cinnamon and sugar. De Nola comments (at the end of his noodle recipe) that it is not necessary to sprinkle sugar on various pasta and grain dishes, but that sugar never harms a dish.

 

Bizcochos

Biscotti

Take twelve eggs, and remove the whites from four of them, and with a little orange-flower water beat them a great deal, and grind a pound of sugar, and cast it in little by little, always beating quickly, and cast in flour, or powdered wheat starch, and beat it with force. Having cast in the said flour, when they see that it is necessary, and very fine, and the dough must remain white, just as for fritters, and then cast it in your pots, and carry them to the oven, and when half-cooked remove them, and dust them with well-ground sugar, and cut them to your taste, and return them to the oven, and let them finish baking a second time: and if they wish when they beat them, cast in as much white wine as an eggshell, it will be good.

 

Potaje Llamado Persicate

Pottage called Peach dish

You will take the peeled peaches, and cut them into slices, and cook them in good fat broth; and when they are cooked, take a few blanched almonds and grind them; and when they are well-ground, strain them rather thick with that broth. And then cook this sauce with sugar and a little ginger, and when it is cooked, cast in enough pot-broth or that which falls from the roasting-spit. And let it stew well for a little; and then prepare dishes, and upon each one cast sugar; and in this same way you can make the sauce of quinces in the same manner; but the quinces need to be strained with [the] almonds, and they should not be sour, and likewise the peaches.

Brighid's NOTE: Duranzo is the Spanish for "peach", but Persico ("Persian") is the word for the peach tree. The Latin name, prunus persica, means Persian plum, because the fruit was introduced to Europe from Persia.

 

Toronjas De Xativa Que Son Almojavanas

Oranges of Xativa which are Cheesecakes

You must take new cheese and curd cheese, and grind them in a mortar together with eggs. Then take dough and knead those cheeses with the curd cheese, together with the dough. And when everything is incorporated and kneaded take a very clean casserole. And cast into it a good quantity of sweet pork fat or fine sweet oil. And when the pork grease or oil boils, make some balls from said dough, like toy balls or round oranges. And cast them into the casserole in such a manner that the ball goes floating in the casserole. And you can also make bu“uelos (Recipe 108) of the dough, or whatever shapes and ostentations you wish. And when they are the color of gold, take them out, and cast in as many others. And when everything is fried, put it on plates. And cast honey upon it, and on top of the honey [cast] ground sugar and cinnamon. However, note one thing: that you must put a bit of leaven in the cheeses and in the eggs, and in the other put flour. And when you make the balls, grease your hands with a little fine oil, and then [the balls] go to the casserole. And when it is inside, if the dough crackles it is a signal that it is very soft, and you must cast in more flour [into the dough] until it is harder. And when the fritter is made and fried, cast your honey on it, and [cast] sugar and cinnamon on top as is said above.

Brighid's NOTE: While "toronjas" is the modern word for "grapefruits", the Renaissance Spanish word for "oranges" was "torongas".

 

Para Hazer Cebollas Enteras En Cazuela En Dia De Quaresma

To Make Whole Onions in Casserole on a Lenten Day

Take the white onions, and sweet ones, and the bigger they are, the better, and make them cook in water and salt, in such a manner that they are well cooked, and take them out and let them cool and drain, and puncture them with the knife, so that the water will come out better, and being drained moisten them with a bit of cold water, and flour them, and put them in a tart pan with enough hot olive oil that they will be more than half covered, and give them fire below and above, turning them several times, and being cooked serve them with oil and cinnamon on top. You can also cover with garlic sauce and green sauce. But if someone wants to stuff them, first before cooking them make a hole in the middle that does not extend to the bottom, and stuff them with the composition for the eggplants, and sustain them [sotestense?] without flouring them, as we have said, with oil, and a little verjuice, and water tinted with saffron, and salt, and pepper, cinnamon, and a little handful of chopped herbs, and serve them with that broth. You can put cheese in the stuffing, and eggs, and in place of oil, butter, and it will always be better, before stuffing them, to give them a boil in the water.

note: the stuffing instructions from the eggplant recipe are to scoop out the inside of the eggplants and chop it "together with odiferous herbs, and old walnuts pounded [in a mortar], and almonds, and a little grated bread, pepper, cloves, cinnamon, and a clove of garlic finely cut, adding to it a bit of oil, and verjuice, and stuff the eggplants with this composition..." I cannot tell from these instructions if the stuffing for onion should be based on the chopped innards of eggplant or the chopped innards of the onion.

 

Para Rellenar Las Ojas De Las Berzas, O Repollo De Una Composicion Llamada Nogada

To Stuff the Leaves of the Cabbage, or Round Cabbage with a Composition Called Nogada [walnut sauce]

Take large cabbage leaves of those which have the big, wide stalk, and remove that stalk from them, and wither the leaves with hot water, and put one leaf on top of another, which will be three in all, sprinkled with cheese, and have prepared a composition of walnuts pounded in the mortar with a few peeled almonds, and a point of garlic, and a crustless bread soaked in broth, and all being well soaked, add mint and marjoram, and chopped parsley, pepper, cinnamon, and saffron, a good quantity, and raw eggs, and raisins, and put the composition on the last leaf and wrap it in the other two leaves, and fasten it, and make it in the form of a ball, and cook it with fatty meat broth with stuffing, and being cooked remove it from the broth, detach the thread and serve it with the stuffing. In the same manner you can stuff the round cabbages, or clusters, having first cooked them, and then make a hole in the base, and having put the composition inside that void, close the hole with a little piece of the same stalk that you took out of the base of the cabbage, and wrap the round cabbage with large leaves, and fasten them as we said in the last chapter, and put it in an earthen vessel, or of copper, not very wide, where there is fatty meat broth with fat pork, and pieces of ham, and salted pigs’ tongues, and a piece of calf’s kidney-fat, and another piece of beef, and mutton ribs, adding pepper, and cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, and saffron, and fennel with the grain removed, and fasten the vessel in a manner that it cannot breathe, and cause it to cook over the embers far from the flame, and being cooked, serve it hot on a large plate with cheese, and cinnamon on top, and the meats cut into slices all around.

Notes:

The word I have translated simply as "cabbage" is "berza", which is a generic term for cabbage. In this recipe, it seems to be the looser leaf variety of cabbage. The term that I have translated as "round cabbage" is "repollo", which is a word that refers specifically to the tightly closed heads of cabbage. I do not know what specific colors and varieties of cabbage would be most appropriate.

The phrase "point of garlic" is a literal translation of "punta de ajo". The usual term for a clove of garlic is "diente"; literally, "tooth". "Punta" is used in many of the same senses as its English equivalent -- to refer to the tip of something sharp (like a pen), a piece of land that protrudes into the sea, or the point on lacing. In this context, it apparently means a clove of garlic. I do not know why Granado used it here, when in most other recipes, he used the standard "diente".The phrase "crustless bread" is my translation of "migajon de pan". There seems to be no simple English equivalent of "migajon" -- it means the crumb of the bread; ie., all the soft stuff inside the crust. The term I have translated as "kidney-fat" is "riñonada", which my dictionary defines as a coating of fat that surrounds the kidneys. I do not know if there is an equivalent English term.

 

Para Rellenar De Diversas Maneras Las Calabazas

To stuff gourds in various ways

If you wish to cook the gourds, diligently clean them of their rinds, taking care not to break them. Make a round opening at the part where the flower is, and the stem, and with a knife remove all that is inside. And stuff it with a mixture made from lean meat of veal, or of pork chopped with an equal amount of lean and fatty bacon, and adding cheese, eggs, raisins, common spices, and saffron. And have small chickens and pigeons, stuffed, and put them in the gourd with the said mixture, and when it is full cover it with some round slices of the same gourd. And put it in a proportionate vessel, in such a way that it cannot move, with enough broth to come up to more than halfway, covered with streaky bacon cut into slices, or with salted pig's belly. This is done so that the gourd should take on flavor and should not be insipid. And in the broth put pepper, cinnamon, and saffron. And cause it to cook over the coals, keeping the vessel covered so that it cannot breathe, and when it has boiled a little while, just until the mixture has compressed, add more broth and let it finish cooking. And when it is cooked, strain the broth from the same vessel, and put the gourd on a plate and serve it hot with the bacon all around.

You can also fill the gourd with milk, beaten eggs, sugar, and streaky bacon cut into bits.

You can also make it in another manner. And that will be, having made an opening without taking off the rind, remove the interior and with dexterity arrange slices of lean bacon inside, on the bottom as well as on the sides, and have ready uncooked yellow stuffings cut up, or truly just the mixture, and make a layer of it on the bottom. And take pigeons, chickens, and quail, and other small birds cut up, the entrails and the bones removed, and sprinkled with pepper, cinnamon and cloves and nutmeg. And put them one by one in the gourd, fitting them with the same mixture of stuffing for intestines. And at the end, upon these birds put a slice of veal sprinkled with the said spices, which should cover all the mixture. Then cover the opening with the same part of the gourd that you took out, and wrap the gourd in a fold of paper and tie it with a thread, and put it in the oven which is somewhat less hot than if you were going to cook bread in it. After two hours take it out and untie the paper and serve it hot.

Note: stuffings (rellenos) are mentioned in many other recipes. They seem to be a mixture of chopped meats and seasonings, sometimes formed into various shapes and sizes, sometimes used to fill intestines in the manner of a sausage. Fennel is a seasoning in many of these stuffing recipes, so Italian sausage mixture might work for redacting this recipe. I believe that a yellow stuffing would have saffron in it, but that's only a guess on my part.

 

Para cozer las habas grandes secas

Clean the fava beans, and put them to soak, as we have said in the previous chapter, wash them with many changes of water, and cook them with oil, water, and salt, and when they are cooked, more or less, put in fried onions, chopped herbs, pepper, and saffron.

 

Para Hazer Escudilla de Esparragos Silvestres y Domesticos

To Make a Dish of Wild or Cultivated Asparagus

Take the most tender part, cause it to boil in hot water until they seem tender, and finish cooking them with good broth of capon or of veal; and these want to be served with a little broth. With the wild ones you can put raisins. The cultivated ones can be served with orange juice, sugar and salt.

 

Para Hazer Escudilla de Arroz Con Leche de Almendras, o Con Azeyte

To Make a Dish of Rice with Almond Milk or with Oil

Take the rice, clean it, and wash it with warm water so that it will become whiter, and will cook more quickly; have it be soaking in warm water for an hour, remove it, and let it dry in the sun, or by the heat of the fire, far from the flame, so that it does not turn red, and set in on the fire in a vessel of earthenware with enough water to cover it, and when it has absorbed the water, put in the almond milk with fine sugar, many times, and cause it to finish cooking, in such a manner that it becomes solid, and being cooked, serve it with sugar and cinnamon on top. You can sometimes serve it as ginestatda, having strained it through a sieve, with more sugar and ground cinnamon and saffron, and returning it to cook with a little rosewater and malvasia. If you wish to make the rice with oil in the Italian style, it is not necessary to do more than to cast the rice in water in a pot with oil and salt and saffron, and at the last moment add ginger with some chopped herbs, or fired onions. But in Valencia, it is made so curiously, that each grain is separate, in this manner. The rice having been washed, and dried in the sun in a very white napkin, they put it in a casserole, and cast in a quantity of sweet oil that is needed: in which oil they fry some cloves of garlic, so that all the grains become coated, turning them very well with the oil and the garlic, and cast in spices and saffron, and some beaten eggs, turning them by stirring everything together; then they cast in water, and set the casserole on the fire and after it has finished absorbing the water, they put in three or four whole heads of garlic and carry it to thicken in the oven, and when it has made a crust the color of gold, they set it to stew until it is the dinner hour; and each grain comes out separately, and in whatever manner, this dish must be served hot.

 

Peach Pits

Take a half pound of almonds, and blanch them, and grind them, and take a pound of ground sugar, sifted. Knead it very well with the almond until it becomes very kneaded, and if it does not become very hard, cast in a little more almond. And take an ounce of very fine cinnamon, and two adarmes of red saunders, all thoroughly ground and sifted, cast it into the paste. The dough being well-tempered, so that it is not soft, dust it on top with a little sifted sugar, so that it does not stick, and make pieces, and in each one put an almond, or half. And dust them with sugar, and put them in your molds and remove them, and set them to dry.

 

Pastel de conejo de las Indias 

Pastry of Rabbit of the Indies (Guinea Pig)

The rabbit of India must be scalded with hot water in the manner that one scalds suckling pigs, or it must be flayed, remove the entrails, and stuff it like the domestic rabbit, and cover it with pastry, as we said in the previous chapter.

[The previous "chapter" is a recipe for rabbit pie, and it goes as follows:]

 

To Make Pastry of Domestic Rabbits

Take the rabbit and cut off the head, and the feet, take out the entrails and wash it with many waters, and stuff it with a mixture made of chopped lard, ham, and its liver cleaned of the bile, mint, chopped marjoram, sour grapes, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and salt, raw egg yolks, and when it is full sew up the opening, and the rabbit sprinkled with the said mixture, put it in a pastry made in the manner of "nauezilla" with some little slices of bacon underneath, having taken out the legs, put them upon the rabbit with as many more little slices of fat pork, and sprinkle all with the same spices, cover the pastry, and make it cook in the oven, and serve it hot.

 

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Torta de melons

Translator unknown

Melon Torte

Take melon cleaned of the rind and the seeds, and which should not be very ripe, and cut it into bite-size pieces, and fry them bit by bit with lard, mixing them with a spoon, take them out and let them cool, and pass them through a strainer/colander, and to each two pounds of fried melon add six ounces of cheese of Tronchon or Parmesan and six ounces of curds, or fresh cheese well mashed, six ounces of fatty/full cream Pinto cheese, one ounce of cinnamon, half an ounce of pepper, six ounces of sugar, ten fresh egg yolks, or at least six with the whites, and grease the torte pan with lard, with a leaf of somewhat thick/rich dough ["ojaldre"= often "puff-pastry"] made with the best flour, rose water, egg yolks, butter, and salt, and layer the tart all around and put the mixture in, and let it cook in the oven with melted lard over it, and when it is almost cooked make the crust with sugar and cinnamon, and when it is cooked serve it hot. In this way you can make it with under ripe peaches and apricots and plums.

 

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Translations by Prof Ken Albala

 

Diego Granado’s cookbook Libro del Arte Cozina, published in 1599, lists three capirotada recipes. They are entrees using baked layers of toasted bread, onion, and cheese, as the main capirotada theme. To these are added layers of meat, quail, or partridge, wine, and a topping of sweet meringue

Capirotada, by this name, dates back to at least the 16th century. A book published in 1599, Libro del Arte Cozina by Diego Granado, contains three different capirotada recipes that vary on some ingredients but, like most versions, they remain consistent with the main theme of using toasted bread, onion, and cheese

 

A Common Capriotada

Take two pounds of Pinto cheese, and another pound of rich cheese that’s not too salty, and mash in a mortar ten gloves of garlic that have been first boiled with the meat from a capon breast that has been roasted. When it is all pounded, you add ten raw egg yolks and a pound of sugar, and infuse everything with cold chicken broth, because if it is hot it can’t infuse, nor can you pass the composition as is required through a grinder or sieve, because of the cheese. Being sieved, put it in a tin-lined casserole, and put it on a bed of coals from the fire and add an ounce of cinnamon, half an ounce of pepper, half of cloves and nutmeg, and a good bit of saffron. While it is cooking, shake it enough to help it take shape. When it is cooked, if you want the best flavor, next take lights (lungs) of veal or kid fried, mix it all together, and serve with sugar and cinnamon on top. In place of lights you can also put breast of veal cooked and then fried, in the same way you can make a copiloted with any kind of roast.

         Food in Early Modern Europe by Ken Albala

 

Bunuelos

Take a quart of milk in a saucepan and with flour make a porridge-like mixture on a very small flame and cook until it is stiff. Then put it aside, and add as many eggs as you like, and beat them in well until it is soft. Drop from a spoon to fry well. Then dip them in honey and toss on cinnamon and sugar.

 

A Green Mutton Dish

For very little ecost and for all people, take a breast of mutton, and cut it in pieces, and place it to cook. Then take lard or salt pork, and heat it up. Add chopped greens, onions and parsley. Fry it all well, and when it is cooked add it to where the meat is cooking. When you see it is cooked, season with a little spice and a clove of garlic. Take it out and let eggs solidify on top, the same number as people you have to serve, tossing in a little vinegar and serve it.

         Food in Early Modern Europe by Ken Albala

 


To Fry and Marinate Sardines

Take fresh sardines, scale and wash them and lay them on a table. Mix them with bits of white salt for a while, then flour them and fry them in olive oil, which is always better than fat, and being fried serve with orange juice, or slices of lemon, or fried parsley on top. After they are fried conserve then in bay leaves, or myrtle, and if you want to marinate them place them after they are fried in vinegar, in which sugar helps, or wine cooked with saffron, and conserve in the escaveche until you want to serve it. In summer in place of vinegar you can serve it with rejoice incorporated with egg yolks, or the soft insides of bread, or also after frying you can cover it with green sauce (garlic, vinegar, bread, parsley & herbs).

         Food in Early Modern Europe by Ken Albala