Kit Facts

The 070 has had some issues actually so does the real one, but we have a solution, three actually. I am going to ask you to watch a video and to have a pad and paper handy so you can take down any information that excites you. If you love your saw like I love mine you will appreciate all three. I do have a stateside source for the washers McMaster Carr look up 90895A209 and you will find a pack of 25 washers that will keep your clutch together and the case in general. The video will put it all in context. There are lot of parts on the internet that look like it or are knockoffs. I am trying to solve problems so please if it ain't the same thing keep looking like I did. If and when you find the right part send me a message/email and tell me where and I will post it up here for the world to enjoy. These washers are made by SCHNORR® and the model is Safety Washers. I know this because I talked to them and they showed them to me, they have great customer service. So look up the info in bold so you understand why and how they work, the zinc are best for us.. They will keep the clutch from falling apart and the case good and tight using OEM nuts. These would be perfect in the right size for other bolted fasteners on the saw. The big boy vibrates so much, even the real one. Old timers had to re-tighten fasteners weekly, daily on the head. They would have loved these.

The FarmerTec Air Filter HD2 Clone does not seal at the base. The OEM does and its washable. I have used many of the knockoffs but I have used my last one. The OEM seals much better. I did a video "Stihl Saves A FarmerTec MS660" showing the difference, plus its washable making it reusable and then it is cost effective to use.

Check cautions page

The MS660 Kit has been chocked full of quality parts. The very nature of a high compression saw like the MS660 requires a few OEM parts if you want it to survive a long time and we do. So these are my recommendations for this kit. The reward, an awesome chainsaw.

• 32:1 ultra oil when milling with it and 40:1 at all other times.

• Never use ethanol gas if you can help it. There is a app (Pure) that will show you where to buy ethanol free. MotoMix, Trufuel, AV100 at your local small airport. Lots of ways to get there. Keep your cap on your jug and gas does not last forever. If you are out west and can not get the good stuff use e-10 and keep in a closed container and pour in your car after 45 days. I put a repair tag on my gas can so I can date it. But then you should change out the Chinese lines for Stihl lines if you must use ethanol gas, get green ones if they are available.

• Use a OEM piston bearing part# 9512 003 3281. The wrist pin OEM 1122 034 1500. If your budget will not allow for anything else buy this.

• If you use the stock cylinder do not use caber rings. The hardened rings will quickly harm the chrome walls. Use the rings that are supplied with it. Nothing wrong with chrome.

• Make sure your brake band has a pin on the end of it otherwise buy another. OEM 1122 160 5400

• Likely you will get a kit with a MS440 brake tension spring. The MS660 part is 1122 160 5500

• Replace the decompensation valve with an OEM part # 1128 020 9400

• Buy the decomp plug to seal cylinder when you are ordering your kit for use during your pressure test, it just a very small amount of money from Huztl. part # 1122 025 2200

• Add heat protection below the muffler on the case. I prefer header wrap glued down with a little Dirko.

• OEM Clutch bearing part# 9512 933 2381 if you can afford it

• OEM Brake lever part# 1128 160 5000

• OEM Starter rope rotor 1122 195 0400 a drop start can/will break the AM ones so much torque.

• OEM Elastostart handle assembly part# 1122 190 3400. Every single AM has broken FarmerTec and others.

• Tank Guard part# 1122 351 0901

• Fuel system see below

A suggestion, if you use a oem decompensation valve do not use it first. Install the FarmerTec valve in the FarmerTec cylinder to test the cylinder threads and then install the OEM valve right before you put it in service. My last cylinder swallowed that expensive valve and they sent another cylinder but not another OEM valve.

The Walbo and Tillotson Carburetors are the only ones I know of that are still fully tuneable. The Walbro has a great clone I show you on first page in a video of a WJ-67. Walbro also has a .74 jet for sale and you can swap the jets and get more fuel and oil to your starved saw. That would turn that WJ-67 carb into a WJ-76 carb Yes, that's how I look at it, staving our saws. So you buy a carb that has a replaceable jet and replace it with the .74 jet and your cloned saw will have more of the juice it needs to live long and prosper.

I have come to the conclusion that you should replace the few pieces of rubber in the fuel circuit. I found my vent not working and I found the problem was actually the grommet the vent fits into, part #1122 353 9200. My Stihl dealer had one for 1.37$, I used a OEM vent 0000 350 5802 for 5.99$, this version of the handle used a one piece white mushroom vent. I used a short piece of R3 fuel line to run from the carburetor to the elbow connector, I found a leak at the elbow connector. I removed the elbow connector and it was the old style long one and it did not have a good grip inside the hose due to it's design so I changed the elbow to OEM part # 4224 122 3900 at the cost of a 1$ and replaced the fuel tank line to OEM part # 1124 358 7700 for 15.99$ so the connector would seal the best in my mind and bought a Walbro WJ-76 carburetor. And a OEM fuel cap 0000 350 0509. Now my 660 is as tight as a factory machine. No chance of a lean condition caused by a leak in the fuel system, hidden carb issue or not running right from a vent issue and besides the WJ-76 the additional cost was less than 32$. An excellent warranty. The elbow is shaped right now and the rubber holding everything together and making delivery it's the best. A OEM clamp on the manifold is recommended. With the OEM fuel tank hose if I wanted to roll the saw on its side to cut/mill I would not uncover the filter/pickup as you do with the FarmerTec fuel hose until it relaxes after some weeks, each time you reach a half tank of fuel with that hose refill. So I think this is the best advice I can give you to make sure your saw lasts a long time.

I have said there are reasons, I think, our kits, are better off running a WJ-76. The Tillotson HS-320a jet size is .65mm and we know they are fine carbs and my stance is that the additional oil/fuel flowing through the aftermarket cylinder resulting from using the .74 sized jet in the WJ-76 is really important. If you disregard that recommendation and need a good carb the HS-320a is an very fine alternative.

So on the Stihl MS660 carb jet sizes are: This is quite a lineup for an iconic chainsaw.

• Walbro WJ-67 jet .64

• Walbro WJ-69 jet .62

• Walbro WJ-76 jet .74

• Tillotson HS-320a jet .65

There are foam filters depending on what you cut with your saw kit, one place is MaxFlow. I will point out the orange cover is junk. Thin material. I pointed it out to them and they told me I should buy a MS661 and then buy their MS661 kit it was better. I told them no. If you need a good foam filer madsens1.com has an online catalog you download as a PDF and they have the velocity stacks and the foam filters. They also have humans that answer their phones and will answer questions and help you make the appropriate selection.

The MS250 kit was the second kit that troubled me. I built a packing list 10/2017 so you can check the kit on arrival and ensure you have all the parts and that they are in good condition. I make comments and provide a document you can cut paste and print and hold while you check everything. Notify them immediately if they let you down.

MS250 packing list to check delivery of the required chainsaw kit parts. Check them off the day it arrives and advise them of missing pieces immediately

Fuel tank handle, installed buffer, wiring, trigger, studs

Air filter

Crankcase* assembly w/fuel line,pickup, entire oil pump assembly, chain adjuster, vent, studs

Sprocket clutch cover

Carburetor

Fuel cap flip✢

Oil cap flip✢

Recoil 2 pawl

Brake handle guard

Air filter cover

Clutch

Worm gear, spring 1123 640 7102, 1123 647 2400

Sprocket .325 7t

Clutch bearing 9512 933 2260

Muffler

Ignition Coil 3 wires

2 magnet flywheel✵ that is finished properly to seat and not damage pawls

42.5mm cylinder, bottom, piston, two rings, two 10mm circlips, wrist pin

Crankshaft

Handle bar

Carburetor shim 1123 141 2000

Slide 1123 141 4001

Clutch cover washer 1121 162 1001

Washer 27mm 0000 958 1022

E clip 8x1.3 9460 624 0801

Annual buffer 2 1123 790 9900 body

Annual buffer 1123 791 2805 shroud, slightly longer than others

Manifold 1123 141 2200

Impulse hose 1123 141 8600

Bumper strips 2 1123 648 6600

Grommet wires 0000 989 0814

Carb grommet 1123 123 7503 for carb needles w/o limiters and a oem vent holder

Carb grommet 1123 123 7506 carb w/limiters

Segment 1123 084 7802 inside starter recoil

Baffle plate 1123 141 5600 engine

Brake cover 1123 021 1100

Brake band w/pin 1123 160 5400 don’t accept one w/o pin to keep it from racking

Flat spring 1123 162 7800 brake

Strap 1123 162 5800 brake

Eclip 4 9460 624 0400

Lever 1121 160 5000

Washer plastic 0000 958 0521

Tension spring 1123 162 7902 brake

Grooved bearings 2 - 9503 003 0340 6203 both sides sealed

Oil seals 2 - 9639 003 1585 rigid type, open side installed inward

Cooling plate 1123 141 3200 muffler

Screws m5x65 1123 148 1201 muffler

Throttle rod 1123 182 1505

Sleeve handle 1127 791 7200

Circlip 15x1 9468 621 1520 crank

Choke rod 1123 185 2000 carb

Gaskets carb, muffler

Plug av 1123 791 7310 handle installed already

Plug av 3 - 1123 791 7300 case may be extra parts

Bumper spike 9075 478 4115

Piston bearing 9512 003 2250

Spark plug Farmertec

M5x15 2

D5x24 13 self tapping

D4x14 2 self tapping

M4x10

M5 nuts 4

M8 nut

D5.3x41 4 motor base

M8 bar nuts 2

Carb was included

* Check crankcase finish where oil pump is installed. Mine might required extensive sanding. Replacement case was unfinished.

The bearings and seals need a smooth seat. Mine should just be replaced.

✢ Check other surfaces on case around caps seats, needs to be smooth to not leak, install fuel cap and test pressure and vacuum on vent. If fuel cap passes it will not leak and fuel will pass successfully to impulse circuit. No way to test oil assembly at first parts delivery inspection other than visually.

✵ The flywheel was extremely rough and unable to seat on the crankshaft and pawl surface was rough as well.

4/20/18 The kit had so many problems I put off assembling one and recently acquired the parts to make it a good copy. So when I started for some unknown reason the case leaked fuel out the holes used to hold the coil in place. I suggest you use a washer between the screw and the coil to supply some more plastic between the screw and the bottom of the hole. I measured the screws and they were slightly larger than a OEM screw. Also, I suggest you run the screws in the hole and cut your threads before you assembly your case, but not all the way in. Remember you are cutting threads when you put the screw in the first time, do it by hand. Hopefully the washer will protect us. That's what I did and have yet to see if it was successful, if its not I will update this. The recoil just failed too. Best guess a new rotor and spring will be needed. They used a rope rotor with two pawls. The MS250C uses that rotor normally. The flywheel is so badly finished i am concerned that it will eat the pawls up. Although I find it desirable to have two pawls over one for obvious reasons.

In buying copy saws the safety aspect comes from them being exact copies of the real thing. Inspecting my kit the flywheel it is not a copy in even a liberal sense. For safety reasons it should be replaced. Complain if it happens to you so they will improve.

The crankcase has a gouges in the plastic in the area of the oil pump making the mating surface uneven. The oil cap popped off after a few minutes because it does not seat properly. The cases fuel circuit did test good.

I am replacing the following items if I keep the kit with oem parts to ensure a long life. If you are on a budget I find the OEM parts are cheaper at my Stihl dealer than on the internet, although there are some great online places.

Walbro WT-215 Carb

Brake band with pin 1123 160 5400

Brake lever 0000 967 3908

Piston bearing 9512 003 2250

Piston pin 4119 034 1500

Clutch bearing 9512 933 2260

Clutch springs 3 0000 997 5115

Rotor 1123 195 0400

Recoil Spring 1129 190 0601

Wiring Harness 1123 440 3010

Engine Ground Wire 1123 440 2200

Replacing this with best quality @ best price to avoid the Farmertec flywheel from exploding. FarmerTec changed suppliers and you might want to ask them if the kit you will get has the good flywheel or a bad one. They tend to be lazy and not want to unpack the kit boxes to put the new ones in. Its really bad so be sure and get the right one. The better ones are great.

Flywheel 1123 400 1207 no pawls attached

This kit has so many problem you might want to skip it. Some of the parts are the worse quality.

On the 070 kit I switched the 070 carb to a Tillotson Carburetor 324A. It's a OEM carb. Mine FarmerTec started giving me problems. The saw must behave, it has no brake so I spent the 42$. The way I will set the new carb up. Remove the old and take the linkage out of the carb from the wind vane and close the H L adjustment screws and open each one turn and then bolt it on but do not hook the wind vane into the carb yet. Now tune your carb to 12000 rpm and then hook the linkage back into the carb and you should be ready to go. Don't lose the linkage while its unhooked. The screws are uneven and meant to be, a long and a short. They missed a white felt washer between the seal and the magneto, see photo below. You can buy it for a few dollars? I also replace the fuel hose and it had to be ordered #1106 358 0700. A awesome saw, a huge saw. Your milling buddy!

I get this question a lot when folks are building their saw. How do I set the timing? Its electronic and you don't, you screw in the coil wire and place the magneto like in the video and tighten it down.

If your milling remember to re-torque your head bolts and flywheel/clutch nuts once a workday.

MS361 Kit Expect issues with the piston fit, many file the area to get the pin in and have to file the skirt for clearance. Replace the brake assembly and the brake handle with something better and as always use a OEM piston bearing for good luck down the road. Many find the cylinder to poor to use and go for a Hyway or a Meteor. You can use a MS460 HO oiler on this saw and get a roller chain catcher by using the appropriate dogs. That will help you oil a longer bar if you need it.

In General Any Kit mentioned here I or other people I have spoken with have had zero problems with Kit gasket material, seals and bearings for the cases. Some have chosen the SK bearing for a better bearing. The gasket material has proven to be very good