The MS200t 40mm build kit is very nice. The cylinder and the other parts are A+. There are three parts that are not included, slide, belt clip, heat foil. STOP, order the carb studs from Stihl, the kit studs are too short, so do not install them ( order 1125 122 6600). I ordered from my dealer the foil and the piston bearing, circlips, vent and the summer winter slide. Those part numbers are under the first whats in the box kit video on Youtube. I have started a build video series https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9Q3gd5dU2Ld-wpNEw7h0xzAPsrNCt3ww. The first major part I started with while I wait is the control handle. I have a suggestion. Install the choke knob screw and remove it before installing the switch shaft, you are making threads in the switch shaft. I also found extra plastic on the trigger I sanded it off to fit the trigger spring. The control handle actual looks and feel great. I suspect there is more issues with the trigger, because it sticks some. Lots of reason and things that could be causing that. I think it will be simple to fix/adjustment or I will correct this statement. The choke knob screw comes in its own package so keep an eye on that one screw. I installed the grab handle after making the video, just required removing the switch shaft and installing the screw and putting the few parts back together. The kill wire should be left off of the handle and in the video I placed it. I have been looking at the case and I will need to thread the into the case. No big deal, just a heads up. Also, the staple I had pressed down to far and it bound up the linkage. Easy fix. The FarmerTec manifold boot seems to be melting for other that have used them. I suspect the material, so I will order a OEM. I found the oil hose folds against itself and stops or restricts the oil flow, that would make you suspect the oiler, incorrectly. I bet its just the hose material
I recommend you replace on the 200t kit.
piston rings (rings included were B grade) They work.
treat case gasket with heavy coating of Hylomar Blue to hopefully prevent oil seepage down the road in area between case screws
manifold (one provided was horrible)
collar screws for carburetor (too short)
choke linkage and saddle
choke switch (makes operation smooth)
all screws, most P screws were missing anyway
impulse hose (use R3)
spring 1129 442 1600
spring & wire 1129 440 4000
double level 1129 180 4000
throttle rod 1129 182 1500
throttle rod short 1129 182 1501
double screws 2pk 1129 791 6100
carb sleeve ring 1113 141 1805
The MS440 50mm kit produces a very good saw. Ask them before you order one and ensure that the engine is not pre-assembled in the kit they will send you. First, because they are cheating you out of one of the most important experiences in building a saw and second, you can not inspect the parts and I recommend here forward you always replace the piston bearing with a OEM bearing. I wish I had kept better records on the build. I was still learning. My kit came without that bearing and today I am really glad that it did, because I used an OEM bearing. Mine fires up every time I ask it too. I only use a 20 inch bar on it. There has been no formula published that I can find on what length bar works best on what saw/engine combination. I might one day upgrade the MS440 to a big bore and use a 22-24" in bar on it. The oiler is a big reason that longer bars on these saws can be a bad idea even if you put a larger top on the saw. There is not an oiler upgrade. I bet a 22" bar would work great if you used a high quality bar oil like the silver Stihl bar oil, because its synthetic, some does a better job. I don't have proof of that, just a gut feeling. Enough oil makes the chain and bar last longer. I did buy a used OEM oil pump to put on it, not because of any fault of the FarmerTec oiler. I put the washer on backwards and it cut into the arm on the oiler...not through it. I have it so when it does break in half I will have a replacement. I got a great price on the used one. I think we may have a source for buying a Walbro HD-15 which would be the perfect crab for our kits. Fully tuneable and hopefully at a fair price. First of April 2018 will have more info on that and will post it.
(It has come to my attention that a subtle change occurred with the cases that you should take action on before you begin your build. The cases have locator/dowel pins. Two. They are intended to be removed when you finish the case by driving them out and storing them in case you ever crack the case open for repair and you would then reuse them. Regardless, the pins need to be out to split the case. FarmerTec has not drilled them through on the newer cases, so double check and see if that applies to you. So before you start put a drill bit in the hole and drill it out, it's not far or hard. Should you have to crack your case in later years to replace a bearing or etc you will not break the case. Those pins being left in are trouble in my opinion. The Stihl manual tells you to remove them. Its the right way to do it and detailed in the service manual. They are not case stiffeners, they are locator/dowel pins. They are placed in the flywheel side of the case and used to guide the other case half in place, that is their purpose. )
Watch the 440 go! (below)
The MS660 Kit has been chocked full of quality parts. The very nature of a high compression saw like the MS660 requires a few OEM parts if you want it to survive a long time and we do. So these are my recommendations for this kit. The reward, an awesome chainsaw.
- 32:1 ultra oil when milling with it and 40:1 at all other times.
- Never use ethanol gas if you can help it. There is a app (Pure) that will show you where to buy ethanol free. MotoMix, Trufuel, AV100 at your local small airport. Lots of ways to get there. Keep your cap on your jug and gas does not last forever. If you are out west and can not get the good stuff use e-10 and keep in a closed container and pour in your car after 45 days. I put a repair tag on my gas can so I can date it. But then you should change out the Chinese lines for Stihl lines if you must use ethanol gas, get green ones if they are available.
- Use a OEM piston bearing part# 9512 003 3281. The wrist pin OEM 1122 034 1500. If your budget will not allow for anything else buy this.
- If you use the stock cylinder do not use caber rings. The hardened rings will quickly harm the chrome walls. Use the rings that are supplied with it. Nothing wrong with chrome.
- Make sure your brake band has a pin on the end of it otherwise buy another. OEM 1122 160 5400
- Likely you will get a kit with a MS440 brake tension spring. The MS660 part is 1122 160 5500
- Replace the decompensation valve with an OEM part # 1128 020 9400
- Buy the decomp plug to seal cylinder when you are ordering your kit for use during your pressure test, it just a very small amount of money from Huztl. part # 1122 025 2200
- Add heat protection below the muffler on the case. I prefer header wrap glued down with a little Dirko.
- OEM Clutch bearing part# 9512 933 2381 if you can afford it
- OEM Brake lever part# 1128 160 5000
- OEM Starter rope rotor 1122 195 0400 a drop start can/will break the AM ones so much torque.
- OEM Elastostart handle assembly part# 1122 190 3400. Every single AM has broken FarmerTec and others.
- Tank Guard part# 1122 351 0901
- Fuel system see below
A suggestion, if you use a oem decompensation valve do not use it first. Install the FarmerTec valve in the FarmerTec cylinder to test the cylinder threads and then install the OEM valve right before you put it in service. My last cylinder swallowed that expensive valve and they sent another cylinder but not another OEM valve.
The Walbo and Tillotson Carburetors are the only ones I know of that are still fully tuneable. The Walbro has a great clone I show you on first page in a video of a WJ-67. Walbro also has a .74 jet for sale and you can swap the jets and get more fuel and oil to your starved saw. That would turn that WJ-67 carb into a WJ-76 carb Yes, that's how I look at it, staving our saws. So you buy a carb that has a replaceable jet and replace it with the .74 jet and your cloned saw will have more of the juice it needs to live long and prosper.
I have come to the conclusion that you should replace the few pieces of rubber in the fuel circuit. I found my vent not working and I found the problem was actually the grommet the vent fits into, part #1122 353 9200. My Stihl dealer had one for 1.37$, I used a OEM vent 0000 350 5802 for 5.99$, this version of the handle used a one piece white mushroom vent. I used a short piece of R3 fuel line to run from the carburetor to the elbow connector, I found a leak at the elbow connector. I removed the elbow connector and it was the old style long one and it did not have a good grip inside the hose due to it's design so I changed the elbow to OEM part # 4224 122 3900 at the cost of a 1$ and replaced the fuel tank line to OEM part # 1124 358 7700 for 15.99$ so the connector would seal the best in my mind and bought a Walbro WJ-76 carburetor. And a OEM fuel cap 0000 350 0509. Now my 660 is as tight as a factory machine. No chance of a lean condition caused by a leak in the fuel system, hidden carb issue or not running right from a vent issue and besides the WJ-76 the additional cost was less than 32$. An excellent warranty. The elbow is shaped right now and the rubber holding everything together and making delivery it's the best. With the OEM fuel tank hose if I wanted to roll the saw on its side to cut/mill I would not uncover the filter/pickup as you do with the FarmerTec fuel hose until it relaxes after some weeks, each time you reach a half tank of fuel with that hose refill. So I think this is the best advice I can give you to make sure your saw lasts a long time.
I have said there are reasons, I think, our kits, are better off running a WJ-76. The Tillotson HS-320a jet size is .65mm and we know they are fine carbs and my stance is that the additional oil/fuel flowing through the aftermarket cylinder resulting from using the .74 sized jet in the WJ-76 is really important. If you disregard that recommendation and need a good carb the HS-320a is an very fine alternative. My preferred carb supplier is http://mittysupply.com for the WJ-76. They may have others than interest you, I get excellent service and they answer questions. You can get the big three manufactures from them.
So on the Stihl MS660 carb jet sizes are: This is quite a lineup for an iconic chainsaw.
- Walbro WJ-67 jet .64
- Walbro WJ-69 jet .62
- Walbro WJ-76 jet .74
- Tillotson HS-320a jet .65
There are foam filters depending on what you cut with your saw kit, one place is MaxFlow. I will point out the orange cover is junk. Thin material. I pointed it out to them and they told me I should buy a MS661 and then buy their MS661 kit it was better. I told them no. If you need a good foam filer madsens1.com has an online catalog you download as a PDF and they have the velocity stacks and the foam filters. They also have humans that answer their phones and will answer questions and help you make the apporpriate selection.
They are currently trying to pawn these brake bands on us currently. We are supposedly buying copies of Stihl parts and the pin missing is not a copy of a Stihl part. The pins purpose is to keep the band which is under a great amount of tension from racking in place. So don't accept this part. Or these shopping trips will turn out to be like Harbor F where you have to modify everything you buy to get it to work. Their brake band worked fine until they pulled this. I suspect their supplier screwed them and so there are sharing the love. I think there, they pay first and have to accept the outcome. We don't!
The throttle bar was off a little affecting the choke. If you have that issue, it can be fixed quickly with a piece of tube stretched over it. 1mm maybe, does not take much to be off. This tubing fits securely over it. Someone else used heat, so your imagination comes in handy here. I wanted something that would not slip and hold that plate tightly closed.
I ended up going OEM and the switch shaft was a little bigger and fixed the problem. Part # 1122 182 0902
The nylon bumper (see to the left) turns out it is a little to thick. I measured a oem and it was .79 where as a FarmerTec was .93. So sand it down or replace it or what ever you feel is best to get the support the bumper provides the metal bar plate and to get the metal plate to sit flat on the case so the chain oil spreads the best.
The MS250 kit was the second kit that troubled me. I built a packing list 10/2017 so you can check the kit on arrival and ensure you have all the parts and that they are in good condition. I make comments and provide a document you can cut paste and print and hold while you check everything. Notify them immediately if they let you down.
MS250 packing list to check delivery of the required chainsaw kit parts. Check them off the day it arrives and advise them of missing pieces immediately
Fuel tank handle, installed buffer, wiring, trigger, studs
Crankcase* assembly w/fuel line,pickup, entire oil pump assembly, chain adjuster, vent, studs
Sprocket clutch cover
Fuel cap flip✢
Oil cap flip✢
Recoil 2 pawl
Brake handle guard
Air filter cover
Worm gear, spring 1123 640 7102, 1123 647 2400
Sprocket .325 7t
Clutch bearing 9512 933 2260
Ignition Coil 3 wires
2 magnet flywheel✵ that is finished properly to seat and not damage pawls
42.5mm cylinder, bottom, piston, two rings, two 10mm circlips, wrist pin
Carburetor shim 1123 141 2000
Slide 1123 141 4001
Clutch cover washer 1121 162 1001
Washer 27mm 0000 958 1022
E clip 8x1.3 9460 624 0801
Annual buffer 2 1123 790 9900 body
Annual buffer 1123 791 2805 shroud, slightly longer than others
Manifold 1123 141 2200
Impulse hose 1123 141 8600
Bumper strips 2 1123 648 6600
Grommet wires 0000 989 0814
Carb grommet 1123 123 7503 for carb needles w/o limiters and a oem vent holder
Carb grommet 1123 123 7506 carb w/limiters
Segment 1123 084 7802 inside starter recoil
Baffle plate 1123 141 5600 engine
Brake cover 1123 021 1100
Brake band w/pin 1123 160 5400 don’t accept one w/o pin to keep it from racking
Flat spring 1123 162 7800 brake
Strap 1123 162 5800 brake
Eclip 4 9460 624 0400
Lever 1121 160 5000
Washer plastic 0000 958 0521
Tension spring 1123 162 7902 brake
Grooved bearings 2 - 9503 003 0340 6203 both sides sealed
Oil seals 2 - 9639 003 1585 rigid type, open side installed inward
Cooling plate 1123 141 3200 muffler
Screws m5x65 1123 148 1201 muffler
Throttle rod 1123 182 1505
Sleeve handle 1127 791 7200
Circlip 15x1 9468 621 1520 crank
Choke rod 1123 185 2000 carb
Gaskets carb, muffler
Plug av 1123 791 7310 handle installed already
Plug av 3 - 1123 791 7300 case may be extra parts
Bumper spike 9075 478 4115
Piston bearing 9512 003 2250
Spark plug Farmertec
D5x24 13 self tapping
D4x14 2 self tapping
M5 nuts 4
D5.3x41 4 motor base
M8 bar nuts 2
Carb was included
* Check crankcase finish where oil pump is installed. Mine might required extensive sanding. Replacement case was unfinished.
The bearings and seals need a smooth seat. Mine should just be replaced.
✢ Check other surfaces on case around caps seats, needs to be smooth to not leak, install fuel cap and test pressure and vacuum on vent. If fuel cap passes it will not leak and fuel will pass successfully to impulse circuit. No way to test oil assembly at first parts delivery inspection other than visually.
✵ The flywheel was extremely rough and unable to seat on the crankshaft and pawl surface was rough as well.
4/20/18 The kit had so many problems I put off assembling one and recently acquired the parts to make it a good copy. So when I started for some unknown reason the case leaked fuel out the holes used to hold the coil in place. I suggest you use a washer between the screw and the coil to supply some more plastic between the screw and the bottom of the hole. I measured the screws and they were slightly larger than a OEM screw. Also, I suggest you run the screws in the hole and cut your threads before you assembly your case, but not all the way in. Remember you are cutting threads when you put the screw in the first time, do it by hand. Hopefully the washer will protect us. That's what I did and have yet to see if it was successful, if its not I will update this. The recoil just failed too. Best guess a new rotor and spring will be needed. They used a rope rotor with two pawls. The MS250C uses that rotor normally. The flywheel is so badly finished i am concerned that it will eat the pawls up. Although I find it desirable to have two pawls over one for obvious reasons.
In buying copy saws the safety aspect comes from them being exact copies of the real thing. Inspecting my kit the flywheel it is not a copy in even a liberal sense. For safety reasons it should be replaced. Complain if it happens to you so they will improve.
The crankcase has a gouges in the plastic in the area of the oil pump making the mating surface uneven. The oil cap popped off after a few minutes because it does not seat properly. The cases fuel circuit did test good.
I am replacing the following items if I keep the kit with oem parts to ensure a long life. If you are on a budget I find the OEM parts are cheaper at my Stihl dealer than on the internet, although there are some great online places.
Walbro WT-215 Carb
Brake band with pin 1123 160 5400
Brake lever 0000 967 3908
Piston bearing 9512 003 2250
Piston pin 4119 034 1500
Clutch bearing 9512 933 2260
Clutch springs 3 0000 997 5115
Rotor 1123 195 0400
Recoil Spring 1129 190 0601
Wiring Harness 1123 440 3010
Engine Ground Wire 1123 440 2200
Replacing this with best quality @ best price to avoid the Farmertec flywheel from exploding. FarmerTec changed suppliers and you might want to ask them if the kit you will get has the good flywheel or a bad one. They tend to be lazy and not want to unpack the kit boxes to put the new ones in. Its really bad so be sure and get the right one. The better ones are great.
Flywheel 1123 400 1207 no pawls attached
This kit has so many problem you might want to skip it. Some of the parts are the worse quality.
MS380 Kit was the one that had the highest quality parts. I kept building and never noticed I did not cut with it. Summer and the heat made me not want to cut at all. Recently, when tuning it I discovered I could not get over 8000 rpm and I set it aside and kept working on other things. Its is an awesome saw. Again later, I took a harder look at it and with the help of a seasoned pro who offered that the problem was likely the air filter. Because the air filter is key on this saw in that it houses the choke. He offered that it was likely the spring in the AM filter. So I ordered an OEM filter and that's when the alarms went off. They have altered the AM air filters to fit and the cover, in an effort to get them to fit on the tank handle. Not just FarmerTec, every aftermarket 038/380 handle has this problem. The carb box is several millimeters too shallow and you have to force the OEM filter on. I spoke to another supplier and he proudly told me they offered the cover for free with the handle. He thinks that solved the issue. It's does not. Recall the filter is your choke. I can say that recently after the OEM filter, it ran much better. I did not have my tach anywhere close to me or I would have tuned it on the spot. It had very good throttle response, it sounded like it was running a high rpm. Once it got cold I could not re-crank it so I am still looking at it as I can. I wish I had a great carb on it (I got one above). Someone asked me to put up a video of it cutting in October and I found these issues. I stopped working and looked harder when I could not find one FarmerTec MS380 saw on YouTube cutting wood. So I will make this a project soon and focus on it. We just need to figure this out. I would rather start and cut with a 380 than a 660. Its a lot lighter and its got grunt, a great oiler and can swing long bars.
So a recap, I have bought 6 carbs since building this saw and since I mentioned the air filter box is too shallow and the two different AM filters. I used to get it to run but would not go any higher than 8000rpm. The oem air filter it will work when you get it on. So was trying to bring it to life and the last carb had soaked my plug. I only bought AM carbs 2 from FarmerTec and 4 from others...worthless. So this is my last dance. It will work this time. I bought a Tillotson HE19A oem carb replacement for the Bing 48A101C Stihl 038 MS380 MS381. I expect the new carb to not flood my engine and the choke to operate correctly inside the OEM air Filter, using a oem coil and my saw to finally run like it should. When you have done a tremendous amount of troubleshooting, swap and replaces. All testing completed, first class parts and it either runs and will not restart or limits to 8000 rpm it will drive you crazy.
I changed two handles. Still will not run.
On the 070 kit I switched the 070 carb to a Tillotson Carburetor 324A. It's a OEM carb. Mine FarmerTec started giving me problems. The saw must behave, it has no brake so I spent the 42$. The way I will set the new carb up. Remove the old and take the linkage out of the carb from the wind vane and close the H L adjustment screws and open each one turn and then bolt it on but do not hook the wind vane into the carb yet. Now tune your carb to 12000 rpm and then hook the linkage back into the carb and you should be ready to go. Don't lose the linkage while its unhooked. The screws are uneven and meant to be, a long and a short. They missed a white felt washer between the seal and the magneto, see photo below. You can buy it for a few dollars? I also replace the fuel hose and it had to be ordered #1106 358 0700. A awesome saw, a huge saw. Your milling buddy!
I get this question a lot when folks are building their saw. How do I set the timing? Its electronic and you don't, you screw in the coil wire and place the magneto like in the video and tighten it down.
If your milling remember to re-torque your head bolts and flywheel/clutch nuts once a workday.
This is the missing part out of the 070 kit. The part number has not changed over the years so if you see another felt ring for sale with a different part number it is not the same felt ring. This is a fat heavy duty felt ring that sits right on top of the PTO crank seal. You may or may not have to wait on delivery but you can still buy this from your local Stihl dealer. Just don't mention your Chinese kit is missing this piece. Might prevent them from telling you they don't sell it anymore.
Some folks flip out over the play the crank has and the play is caused by the type bearing used not some defect. So that is OK, no problem
I consulted with a rubber specialist on what to buy to replace the chip guard since they are very hard to find and the replacements are crummy. He said this was the best type rubber to buy and then just cut out the chip guard and replace as needed:
1/64 thickness Buna-N Rubber Military Spec: Mil-R-2765 Durometer Scale of 40a
Look under the milling tab for more on the 070
MS361 Kit Expect issues with the piston fit, many file the area to get the pin in and have to file the skirt for clearance. Replace the brake assembly and the brake handle with something better and as always use a OEM piston bearing for good luck down the road. Many find the cylinder to poor to use and go for a Hyway or a Meteor. You can use a MS460 HO oiler on this saw and get a roller chain catcher by using the appropriate dogs. That will help you oil a longer bar if you need it.
In General Any Kit mentioned here I or other people I have spoken with have had zero problems with Kit gasket material, seals and bearings for the cases. Some have chosen the SK bearing for a better bearing. The gasket material has proven to be very good