Saowanee Allegritti

Proudly independent

Saowanee Allegritti was raised to make her own choices, to pick her path and to follow it diligently and honestly, and to deal with any fallout herself. Her parents, rice and chilli farmers in the northern Thailand province of Phrae, didn’t feel the need to control her journey through life or make choices for her, prepared to let her find her own successes, and if necessary, experience some failure along the way. Not through luck, but rather a great deal of self-belief and strong will, Saowanee has encountered much success, which seems destined to continue for this proudly independent woman.

Coming from a simple farming background, Saowanee has worked hard for the financial stability she enjoys today.  Some Thai acquaintances would expect that being married to a Western man would be enough for Saowanee, now 53 years old, to stop working but Saowanee remains determined to continue to earn her own money, and not be beholden to anyone, not even her beloved Australian husband Armando.

Saowanee’s first visit to Hua Hin was in 1998, with her boyfriend Armando.  It was not until the middle of 2015 that the pair, married by then, settled in Khao Takiab, which Saowanee believes has changed quite dramatically since they first purchased their condominium. Much as she loves the local area, and the easy and very comfortable life it affords her, Saowanee deplores the lack of forward planning and insight displayed by the local authorities, in allowing development to outpace infrastructure. She sees new roadworks and upgrading being undertaken all over the municipality, even in less populated areas, yet feels that the roads in Khao Takiab are being overlooked.  In addition, she is impacted by water supply issues and has experienced periods of up to 3 days in her restaurant without water, needing to cart it to even wash the dishes. This unreliability of an essential service doesn’t help promote the area as a liveable place, for Thai or Westerners alike.

Neither of Saowanee’s parents are still alive, both passing away many years ago now, her mother at just 50, a younger age than Saowanee is now, which is a sobering thought.  Saowanee feels blessed to still have her maternal grandmother Mon, who will soon be turning 92 and is mentally acute.  Saowanee names Mon as her most admired living person, and during Saowanee’s university years in Bangkok, Mon was both an example and a comforting influence in her young life. Saowanee’s dad had been a timber-worker and a builder before meeting her mum.  Depletion of the teak forests led him to abandon his craft and take up the farming lifestyle of his wife’s family: a physically demanding lifestyle that Saowanee credits with shortening the lifespans of both her parents.  Given this fact, it is not surprising that neither Saowanee nor her younger sister have chosen to stay working on the land. Both of the women have found careers which are less physically taxing.  Saowanee’s sister is currently employed in the Faculty of Education at Kasertsart University.



There were many happy childhood moments for Saowanee with her paternal grandfather.  Because her parents were working in the fields and her grandfather could work from his home, she spent a great deal of time as a child being cared for in her grandparents’ home.  Saowanee recalls her grandfather would gladly piggy-back her everywhere as he went about his daily tasks.  She knows that as the first grandchild she had a privileged position and her high perch on his back made her feel important and specially loved.

At school, Saowanee recalls being a well-behaved but average student.  It was not until many years later, while studying English in Australia, that Saowanee came to appreciate that demanding more of herself, and not being content merely to pass, would see her becoming a high achiever.  When she was studying with OTEN - Open Training and Education Network – Saowanee completed a 2-year certificate course in only 18 months and took out the Student of the Year Award at the same time. 

Unfortunately, she was unable to attend the graduation ceremony in person as she had to rush back to Thailand to be at the bedside of her critically-ill mother, who died just 3 days after Saowanee’s return. Saowanee’s sole piece of advice to her younger self would be to take your studies seriously much earlier in your life.

Saowanee’s independence also grew from necessity.  Her small village had only a primary school so she had to travel into the town to attend a girls’ high school.  This trip was too far to be undertaken daily, so Saowanee lived in a residence attached to the school and only returned home at weekends. Upon graduation from high school, Saowanee was sent to an even bigger pond for a little fish, the capital, Bangkok, where she studies a degree in marketing, and worked for a cell-phone company.  Throughout her working life, Saowanee has undertaken quite a few different jobs, office-based in administration, IT-based in educational institutions as well as in the hospitality industry.  The sole common thread in all of these is that when Saowanee commits to anything, she gives it her all.  She will not stop until the job is done, and done to her exacting standards.  Near enough is simply not good enough, while half-measures are totally unacceptable.

This is a philosophy Saowanee has carried into her current business, At Phrae, a small local restaurant just a few steps south of the songtaew terminus at Khao Takiab.  At Phrae specialises in Northern Thai cuisine, the food of Saowanee’s childhood, and she demands that its taste be authentic. Indeed, the flavours she creates are so good that some Northeners prefer her food over what they buy in their own home provinces. Saowanee has been unable to find any assistance with the actual cooking that doesn’t affect the flavours she must achieve, so although she often has two assistants, their roles involve only ingredient preparation, taking orders, packing takeaways, waiting and clearing tables and washing up.  Saowanee works long days, with the restaurant being open Tuesday to Saturday, and Monday devoted to shopping, leaving Saowanee working a 6-day week. Saowanee is currently testing the waters of business expansion, having taken a stall at Tamarind Market, where, Thursday to Sunday, from 5pm till 10.45pm, unless sold out early, customers new and old can savour two of Saowanee’s best loved dishes, her Khao Soi Gai and Ngam Ngeow Khanon Jeen. This initiative is introducing her unique Northern style of food to a new customer base. Saowanee needs to work harder on relaxing, though as her own boss, she feels she is following her passion rather than working.  Saowanee was cooking from the age of about 8, responsible for providing meals for the family, yet she had no inkling until much, much later that she would choose to pursue cooking as an income-earning endeavour.

It was in Bangkok, at the MBK Centre, that Saowanee and Armando first met in person, after connecting online at a time prior to current dating apps.  Armando was in Thailand visiting his sister, brother-in-law and family.  The adults were both working at the Australian Embassy in Bangkok at the time.  During their 4-year posting, Armando was a regular visitor twice a year.  Who’s to say how much of this was his desire to see his relatives or how much to deepen his relationship with Saowanee, with whom he was in regular contact?  Eventually, Saowanee was gifted a ticket to Australia in 1999 and Armando’s relatives helped her to obtain her visa. She thought she would be getting a tourist visa but found a spouse visa in her passport instead.  A rather novel way to make one’s intentions obvious, Armando Allegritti! The pair married in June 2000, Saowanee transitioned to a temporary resident visa, then became a permanent resident. She is now an Australian citizen, travelling on either her Thai passport or her Australian passport, depending on her destination.  Armando would also like Saowanee to pursue Italian citizenship, since he is a dual national and that way, he won’t have to wait so long for her to transit Immigration when they holiday in Italy to visit Armando’s extended family who still reside in Abruzzo.

Saowanee and Armando never became parents, though not from want of trying.  Saowanee always worked to retain her independence in Australia, initially as a kitchen hand while pursuing a Certificate III in English while living in suburban Newcastle close to where Armando grew up.  Eventually they moved to Sydney, Saowanee studying at OTEN while working in data entry and materials purchasing for a garment factory, in a Thai restaurant and then a BBQ restaurant as a senior in control of the day shift, responsible only to the Head Chef and the Manager.  At this time, she was honing the skills that would eventually equip her for opening her own restaurant.

At Phrae opened in June 2020 during Covid lockdown times as a takeaway restaurant.  Saowanee was very aware of the need to present simple but nutritious and affordable meals as so many people were struggling.  She has expressed her thanks to the building’s owner who supported her fledgling business by waiving rent during the periods of closure, and allowing the business to re-open at much reduced rent. Around 18 months later as an adjacent shop became available and restrictions were easing further, At Phrae expanded its footprint and allowed dine-in customers.  Many of the first batch of customers have become regulars who eat Saowanee’s food on a daily basis, among them one particular monk who accepts both alms and a seat most gratefully to rest his weary old legs on his morning round, and a large fat monkey called Jeaw, now sadly deceased, who used to regularly beg for food from Saowanee's restaurant.  She and Armando were both enchanted by the antics of this big girl.

In her private capacity, there are still some things Saowanee wants to learn and achieve.  She believes her mathematics skills aren’t up to par, she wishes to travel more widely in places she has previously enjoyed such as Portugal, and her favourite place in the world, Italy, as well as Greece, which is still on her bucket list. Saowanee would like to overcome the bad habit she has of skipping meals when she is busy at the restaurant as it plays havoc with her digestion and to find more time to enjoy engaging in craft pursuits such as pottery. She can’t do without her phone because she uses her Facebook feed to promote her daily specials.  Good Google reviews help generate return customers for her almost as well as word-of-mouth.  And of course, like people all over Thailand, Saowanee finds her phone has become an essential tool for payment of her purchases. Saowanee has some concerns about her future, including worries about the global impact of current wars, and whether in the future Armando’s family responsibilities may necessitate a return to Australia.  But whatever the future holds, Saowanee is sure to have emotional support.


A fine work-free day will find Saowanee and Armando enjoying brunch somewhere together, perhaps Forget-me-not Café, a regular haunt, or indulging in Saowanee’s favourite clear pork or beef noodle soup. Time doing nothing in particular, but together, is still precious for this couple. Much as Saowanee loves her husband, she still glows at the thought of her independence, and that she has achieved the vast majority of her success very much from her own sweat and tears. She is still terrified of snakes or any creature without visible legs though.  Armando is very welcome to deal with those, independence notwithstanding!

Published 21st January, 2024