Salbas
Project
"Decorative metal: metal elements of traditional Ukrainian neck jewelry"
Salbas
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In Northern Bukovyna, a special decoration called “salba” was widespread in the form of rows of coins (mostly silver), medallions from medals, or round plaques sewn onto fabric (velvet or homespun cloth).
Many scholars trace the origin of the Bukovyna salba to its Turkic roots, more specifically to the period of Ottoman rule.
Some researchers of neck ornaments classify salbas by their structure: single-row (in other regions they are called dukats, monist, and forties) and multi-row (they can be sewn on a felt or velvet base, or attached to metal rods). In the past, several types of necklaces were combined, so a single-row salba could be worn over a multi-row one to cover the neck and complete the look.
As for the multi-row salba, the shape of its base resembles a semicircular apron made of fabric with ties, but the salba was tied around the neck, not the waist. Coins (medallions, plaques) with holes in them were sewn onto the salba fabric in horizontal or vertical rows. The salbas could have 25-60 or more coins sewn on them, and the total weight of the jewelry could reach up to 5 kg.
There are several principles of coin placement on multi-row salbas.
The first is to place the coins in horizontal or vertical rows so that each coin is clearly legible and does not overlap. In this case, coins of smaller denominations were often placed in a semicircle along the bottom edge, while larger coins were placed in the center of the salba.
Another principle is to place the coins densely, so that they cover each other, with coins of different diameters mixed together.
Salbes, in which the pendant coins are arranged according to the first principle, have a smooth plastic rhythm, and the relief formed by the rows is almost flat. There were gaps between the coins, through which the fabric was visible, which enhances the picturesqueness of the product, gives it lightness and openwork.
The second principle of the arrangement gives a higher relief to the mass of coins, a dense texture, creates the impression of weight, as if the salba is sagging under the weight of the pendants.
From the second half of the 19th century, Bukovyna craftsmen combined the salba with a beaded necklace, the pattern of which consisted of simple geometric motifs.
The special purpose of the salba was to be a talisman for its wearer. After all, the clothing prescription advised our ancestors to cover the neck and sinuses as places energetically vulnerable to prying eyes. Therefore, the metal salba- breastplate seemed to dress its wearer in silver armor and hide her from prying eyes. Because everyone will look at the shiny jewelry and not look beyond it - into the soul...
The photographs are from the collections of the Museum of Ethnography and Art Crafts in Lviv, the Lviv Skansen (Shevchenko's Grove) and from open sources
Archival photos of salbas from open sources
Project "Decorative metal: metal elements of traditional Ukrainian neck jewelry" is supported by the European Union under the House of Europe programme.
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