February

Tomatoes, eggplant and other crops might be coming into a “second wind” through February. Apply foliar applications of Seasol Powerfeed Tomatoes and Vegetables. But February should be about getting your soil right for Autumn planting, rather than planting early crops which will suffer the vagaries of sub-tropical summer weather conditions.

February is traditionally our wettest month. And often with long dry spells in between! So developing your soil so it acts like a sponge could be a priority during February before you begin autumn planting. Apply applications of weed tea or compost tea to develop a healthy soil biome. Spray the soil as well as the leaves of your plants. Your soil will only stay healthy if you give up using pesticides, weedicides and insecticides. Make hay while the sun "shines" - use your lawn clippings to make compost that can be dug back into beds. It will also hold soil moisture during the months when we don't get much rain. Organic-rich soils will absorb rainfall (even heavy falls) rather than water being shed through lack of capacity. It will provide a home for earthworms and other microbes, creating an environment for healthy plants.

If you want to clear tomato beds now, and some fruit is still on the plants, remove the plant with roots intact, and hang the plant to enable the last of the fruit to ripen.

Source: https://en.climate-data.org/oceania/australia/queensland/yeppoon-32235/

Mulch

With heavy seasonal rain ahead, protect soil from compaction and minimise moisture loss through hot, humid days. Mulch will feed your soil and micro-organisms and insulate them from hot summer days.

Planting

With any planting you're tempted to do now, consider DTM (days to maturity). Radish can have a short turnaround with as little as 21 days to maturity. Eggplant could be as much as 80 days or more. You need to consider these times in planning your plantings, or, use this window to prepare your soil, and sit tight till late March or early April to plant out.

Compost

While lawns are actively growing, compost lawn clippings with straw/shredded paper at a ratio of about 10:1. In a tumbler or bin, you can make usable compost in about 2 weeks. Store and use on vegetable beds in March.

Amendments like weed tea and worm tea can be added to soils to give them a boost prior to autumn planting.

Bed rotations

Consider bed rotations - a four-bed rotation looks like this - Legumes, Leafy greens, Fruit crops(tomatoes etc), Root crops (see below)

You may be able to get a green manure crop into the bed that will become the leafy green bed. Any of the beans will fix nitrogen (you’ll dig them in so even broad beans will work). Cowpea, millet, lablab, mung bean, marigolds and soybean will all work. This will provide biomass which contribute towards healthy soils.

Pollinators

Plan for plants to attract pollinators and beneficial insects - zinnia, cosmos, marigold, ammi majus (Queen Anne's lace), nasturtiums. Consider placement depending whether they’re a companion or decoy plant.

pH

Do a pH test on your vegetable garden soil. Add lime if your pH is “low” - the ideal range for growing most vegies is 6.5 - 7.

Lots of organic material in either sandy or clayey soils will help buffer against pH movement.

Legumes

Peas

Beans Bush

Leafy greens

Lettuce

Spinach

Kale

Brassicas

Asian greens

Coriander

Silverbeet

Rocket

Mustard greens

Fruiting

Tomatoes

Capsicum

Chilli

Okra

Zucchini

Root

Leeks

Onions

Shallots

Carrots

Beetroot

Garlic

Radish

Turnip

The list above is for Autumn planting - I'd suggest late March after the solstice. Decide which vegetable will appeal to your family, and try and get seed at the Livingstone Edible Garden Trail Autumn Seed Swap https://www.facebook.com/events/877013073321299

The Seed Swap is your chance to get free, acclimatised seeds. It'll still be too early to plant - but you can get available seed locally, and then look online before the seed runs out. https://www.facebook.com/GreenHarvestOrganic