April
April is a time when experienced gardeners begin to get excited. With rain about over the past few weeks, gardeners have more confidence that conditions are finally in our favour. Early April rain may make for better germination of seeds across your edible beds - it coincides with moon planting too.
Autumn is the peak growing season for edibles across Central Queensland. But it does require preparation to guarantee success. To quote a well-known gardener - "don't try planting a $10 plant in a $1 hole". If your edible beds aren't fully prepared, hold off buying seedlings or planting out seedling trays. Time is on your side; you can plant most plants well into May.
Use the Facebook (@Capricorn Coast Produce Swap ) group to ask for advice or seek some help. There'll always be someone willing to help you down the track to success!
Plants and the soil will benefit from regular feeds. Use seaweed, compost tea, weed tea or worm tea, sprayed over any foliage or the soil early in the morning. It will get your soil life pumping for autumn growth. Use a watering can or hose-on applicator.
Be aware of plant requirements - leafy greens need more nitrogen than root or legume crops.
A healthy soil will ensure a healthy, nutrient dense food - https://bit.ly/3XOw7Ud
Carrots should be sown directly where they're to grow. Cover the seeds with cardboard or a plank to keep them cooler and moist. Check regularly after about 7 days for signs of germination. Once you see germination, put some spacers under the plank to give the seedlings some room, then remove once the seedlings are about 25mm high. Other seeds that might benefit from "planking" include parnsips and beetroot.
Don't panic about April deadlines, and rush to plant if your edible beds are under-prepared. Planting could very well be viable into May for many crops.
Your efforts are doomed to fail if the soil is under-prepared. Dig in loads of compost, water in compost tea, weed tea or worm tea, fork the soil deeply (especially for root crops) and mulch while you wait till planting. Remember to keep watering until the planting date.
Succession planting is about having regular small quantities of produce pickable, rather than a glut of produce that you either pickle , donate to Food Relief or take to the monthly Produce Swap.
This spreadsheet might be useful if you're a bit geeky. Otherwise, the aim is to plant smaller quantities more regularly. https://bit.ly/3xGlfxd
Check out the guide below to work out when to plant different seeds for succession planting.
https://bit.ly/3IHRthQ
Start your flowering plants now- zinnia, cosmos, marigold, ammi majus (Queen Anne's lace), and nasturtiums. They'll attract pollinators and beneficial insects. Consider placement depending whether they’re a companion or decoy plant. Decoys need to be placed away from your crops.
Remember, pollinators are more than European honey bees and native social bees. It includes all the native solitary bees (eg blue banded great carpenter, neon cuckoo, firetail resin bees and the many hundreds of others in this region, it includes butterflies, moths, hoverflies and a host of other insects, which will be supported by diverse plantings across the garden.
Many seeds will be direct sown where you want them to grow. Some of those - peas, beans, beetroot, and eggplant may benefit from soaking the seed prior to planting.
Check directions, but this usually involves soaking the seeds in warm water for a period of up to 8 hours (overnight).
Newly planted seeds (in situ) will need to be carefully watered, especially if the forecast temperatures eventuate. Peas for example, won't need water until after they've germinated to avoid rot. Others will need to be kept moist.
Monitor requirements for different seeds - keep in mind you may need to water morning and afternoon for seeds that need to be kept moist.
Mulch around seedlings to maintain soil moisture and minimise weeds, and to encourage worms and other soil life to keep "working" your beds. If slaters are present in your garden, either pull the mulch back, or put a barrier around your seedlings until they get strong enough.
A healthy soil will ensure healthy, nutrient dense food - https://bit.ly/3XOw7Ud
Many companion plants are edible - so they're doing a number of jobs in your edible garden.
Calendula, nasturtium, alyssum, marigold, and viola are some of the edible flowers that can be used to encourage beneficial insects.
Check if your plant is a companion or decoy. Plant decoys away from the main crop.
Legumes
Peas
Beans Bush
Pidgeon pea
Snake bean
Leafy greens
Lettuce
Spinach
Kale
Brassicas
Asian greens
Coriander
Silverbeet
Rocket
Mustard greens
Fruiting
Tomatoes
Capsicum
Chilli
Okra
Zucchini
Cucumber
New Guinea bean
Root
Leeks
Onions
Shallots
Carrots
Beetroot
Garlic
Radish
Turnip
Herbs
Herbs thrive during these cooler times.
Try:
Sweet Basil
Thyme
Oregano
Parsley (both Italian and triple curl)
Lemon grass
Coriander
Perennial Basil
Winter tarragon
Self heal
Remember, herbs don't have to be planted in a herb patch as we often see on gardening programs.
Use them to act as companion plants (insect deterrents) among your other garden plants.
You can find a guide to companion planting here. Written for Australian conditions, it will be a good guide.
The list above is for Autumn planting in the subtropics.
Root vegetables (especially carrots) should be sown directly into the ground. Here's a pretty good guide to help you plan the sowing of seeds in punnets or trays, so they're ready for planting out when you're ready - https://www.boondieseeds.com.au/blogs/news/plantingguide Read seed packets to check which seed should be soaked prior to planting.
Keep in mind that heat, moisture and available nutrient will impact these germination times.