A look at the systems that might work for you and at home, and a glimpse of the systems working at Jack's Paddock.

I keep kitchen waste out of the main composting systems to avoid vermin.

• designated bin

• holes to allow black soldier fly to get in and lay eggs

• less vermin 

A system to keep weedy plants and weeds in flower from germinating once pulled

• ideal for couch grass

• perfect for any flowering weeds - cobblers peg, Coat buttons - Tridax procumbens

• use as a tonic on soil or plants as a foliar spray

Simple system where prunings are dropped on the ground and left there.

• downside is it's not very effective during the dry season

• not easily navigated with out tripping - care where you practice it

Grow your own biomasse - longevity spinach, qld arrowroot

• they break down quickly on your soil

• ideal for lawn clippings on smaller residential blocks

• lawn clippings are finely chopped so will break down quickly

• add carbon and compost activators (comfrey, yarrow)

• add water

• two week turn around

In summer, assuming rain, you'll be mowing at least fortnightly.

• Rough compost can be finished in this storage bin, while tumbler is churning out compost each fortnight

• By autumn, or spring, there's a handy pile ready to top up edible beds

Only four things are needed to make compost effectively:

1. Water

2. Oxygen

3. Carbon (dry plant materials, cardboard, paper)

4. Nitrogen (green plant materials)

The trick is getting the balance correct. 

This calculator takes the guesswork away.

Google Sheet

Excel Spreadsheet

• Always incorporate into your gardens

• Perfect for edible beds prior to planting 

• Feed plants by lighly forking in around them