DP Design Technology - 3.1.1e Textiles

Final Production / 3.1.1e /
Textiles

Nature of Design: The continuing evolution of the textiles industry provides a wide spread of applications from high- performance technical textiles to the more traditional clothing market. More recent developments in this industry require designers to combine traditional textile science and new technologies leading to exciting applications in smart textiles, sportswear, aerospace and other potential areas.

Fashion Revolution Campaign: Who Made my Clothes

Raw Materials for Textiles

Natural or synthetic fibres are the raw material for textile products. Knowing the properties of different types of fibres and combinations of fibres helps designers select the best textiles for their designs. A fibre is an elongated hair-like strand or filament. Fibres can be twisted into threads using the spinning process and converted into yarn, or fibres can be used in their raw form and made into felt.

Natural fibres come from plants, animals and minerals. They usually have short fibres, called staple fibres. The exception to this rule is silk: A natural fibre whose continuous filaments are up to a kilometre in length. Wool and cotton are examples of natural fibres.

Synthetic fibres are man-made, usually from chemical sources. These are continuous filament fibres, which means they are long and do not always have to be spun into yarns. Polyester and Nylon are examples of synthetic fibres.

semi-synthetic fibres are a bridge between natural and completely man-made materials. Rayon and Lyocell are examples of semi-synthetic fibres. Semi-synthetic fibres are created using a two-step process:

Natural Base: The process starts with a naturally occurring raw material, most commonly cellulose, the fibrous component found in plant cell walls. This cellulose can come from wood pulp, bamboo, or even seaweed.
Chemical Transformation: The cellulose is then treated with chemicals to dissolve it and alter its properties. This process reforms the cellulose into a new fibre that can be spun into yarns and woven into fabrics. The chemical transformation significantly changes the fibre structure and properties compared to the original plant material.

There are many ethical considerations attached to the production of natural fibres. The strongest natural silk known to man is harvested from silk spiders and is notoriously difficult to obtain, and labour-intensive. To produce higher yields, scientists have altered the genome of goats so that they produce the same silk proteins in their milk.

Extrusion of synthetic (continuous) fibres

Properties of Natural Fibres

Cotton

Made from the seed hairs of the cotton plant (Gossypium spp.)

Absorbency: High - readily absorbs moisture, making it comfortable in hot weather.
Strength: Moderate - strong enough for everyday wear, but can weaken when wet.
Elasticity: Low - has minimal stretch.
Temperature: Good insulator - provides moderate warmth in cooler temperatures.
Common Uses: Clothing (t-shirts, jeans, underwear), towels, bed sheets, furniture upholstery.

Linen

Made from the Flax plant (Linum usitatissimum) - fibers come from the stalks.

Absorbency: High - absorbs moisture well and dries quickly.
Strength: High - very strong and durable fiber.
Elasticity: Low - has minimal stretch and wrinkles easily.
Temperature: Cool and breathable - ideal for hot weather clothing.
Common Uses: Clothing (dresses, pants, shirts), tablecloths, napkins, towels.

Wool

Made fron the fleece of sheep (Ovis aries) and other animals like goats, alpacas, and camels.

Absorbency: Moderate - absorbs moisture without feeling damp.
Strength: Strong and resilient - retains shape well.
Elasticity: Wool has some natural stretch and can bounce back from wrinkles.
Temperature: Excellent insulator - keeps you warm in cold weather.
Common Uses: Sweaters, coats, scarves, hats, blankets, carpets.

Silk

Made from filaments from the cocoons of silkworms (Bombyx mori)

Absorbency: Moderate - absorbs some moisture but can feel slippery when wet.
Strength: High - surprisingly strong for its fine weight.
Elasticity: Low - has minimal stretch.
Temperature: Good insulator - provides some warmth and regulates body temperature.
Common Uses: Dresses, blouses, lingerie, scarves, ties, decorative fabrics.

Hemp

Made from the stalks of the hemp plant (Cannabis sativa)

Absorbency: High - good moisture absorption and dries quickly.
Strength: Very strong and durable - even stronger than cotton.
Elasticity: Low - has minimal stretch.
Temperature: Breathable and cool - comfortable in warm weather.
Common Uses: Clothing (jeans, shirts), rope, twine, canvas, insulation materials

Jute

Jute fibers come from the stalks of the jute plant (Corchorus capsularis).

Absorbency: Moderate - absorbs some moisture.
Strength: High - very strong and durable fiber, but can become brittle when wet.
Elasticity: Low - has minimal stretch.
Temperature: Breathable and cool - suitable for warm weather.
Common Uses: Sacking material, carpets, twine, rope, upholstery backing, burlap.

Properties of Synthetic and Semi-Synthetic Fibres

Nylon

Originating Raw Material: Petroleum (crude oil)

Absorbency: Low - repels moisture, dries quickly.
Strength: High - very strong and durable fiber.
Elasticity: Varies - some nylons have good stretch (like spandex blends), others have very little.
Temperature: Melts at high temperatures - avoid ironing on high heat settings.
Common Uses: Sportswear, stockings, carpets, ropes, backpacks, tents.

Polyester

Originating Raw Material: Petroleum (crude oil) or recycled plastic bottles (PET)

Absorbency: Low - absorbs minimal moisture, dries quickly.
Strength: High - strong and durable fiber, wrinkle-resistant.
Elasticity: Low - has minimal stretch.
Temperature: Melts at high temperatures - avoid ironing on high heat settings.
Common Uses: Clothing (shirts, pants, dresses), fleece jackets, home furnishings (bedding, curtains), carpets.

Lycra (Spandex)

Originating Raw Material: Polyurethane (a type of plastic)

Absorbency: Low - repels moisture.
Strength: Moderate - not as strong as nylon or polyester, but can withstand wear and tear.
Elasticity: Very High - known for its exceptional stretch and recovery.
Temperature: Melts at high temperatures - avoid ironing on high heat settings.
Common Uses: Activewear (leggings, swimwear), sportswear (tights, yoga pants), underwear, socks (for added stretch).

Olefin

Originating Raw Material: Petroleum (crude oil)

Absorbency: Very Low - hydrophobic (repels water).
Strength: Moderate - strong enough for everyday wear, but not as strong as nylon or polyester.
Elasticity: Low - has minimal stretch.
Temperature: Melts at high temperatures - avoid ironing on high heat settings.
Common Uses: Outdoor clothing (windbreakers, rain jackets), activewear (base layers), carpets, upholstery.

Rayon (Viscose) - Semi-Synthetic

Originating Raw Material: Cellulose (from wood pulp, bamboo, or other plant sources).

Absorbency: High - absorbs moisture well, similar to cotton.
Strength: Moderate - strong when dry, but weakens when wet.
Elasticity: Low - has minimal stretch and wrinkles easily.
Temperature: Breathable and comfortable in warm weather.
Common Uses: Clothing (dresses, blouses, shirts), linings, bed sheets, towels.

Lyocell - Semi-Synthetic

Originating Raw Material: Cellulose (from wood pulp).
Absorbency: High - absorbs moisture well.
Strength: High - strong and durable, even when wet.
Elasticity: Low - has minimal stretch.
Temperature: Breathable and comfortable in warm weather. Considered more eco-friendly than other rayon types due to its closed-loop production process.
Common Uses: Clothing (dresses, shirts, pants), bedding, towels, denim.

Conversion of Fibres to Yarns

There are two basic types of fibres that are used to make yarn; namely, filament or staple fibres. The fibres that are so long they can work themselves as yarns are called filament yarns. Staple fibres are short fibres, generally from natural sources. They have to be twisted into longer strands to create yarn. Most of the fibres labelled as filaments are synthetic or manufactured. Nylon and polyester are two such fibres that are long and strong and can easily be converted into fabrics.

Yarn spinning is a process of making or converting short fibrous material into yarn. For centuries, this process has been used all over the world to convert raw materials such as cotton and wool into yarns for making textile fabric or products. Yarn can be spun by hand and by machine.

Before the industrial revolution, the hand spinning method was used for 100’s of years. The principle of hand spinning is to use tools such as a carder to stretch out and align the fibres with each other before using a spinning wheel or hand bobbin to twist the raw material into a usable yarn.

One of the main reasons for the industrial revolution was the progression and development of machines to make the processing of raw materials into yarns and fabrics: machine spinning. This in turn led to many other developments and inventions that propelled the industrialisation of the western world. While modern textile mills have come a long way since then, the machines still run on the same principles as they were back then.

Conversion of Yarns into Fabrics

Weaving is a process used to convert yarns into fabric. A machine called a loom is used to produce the fabric. Two systems (or directions) of yarns are used to form the fabric, these are interlaced together by the loom. The two different yarns are called warp or weft. The warp yarns run vertically, and the weft yarns run horizontally. In modern fabric manufacturing, this whole process is fully automated. Different weave patterns can be created depending on the method used to interlace the yarns. The three most common weave patterns are plain, twill, and satin.

Knitting is another process to produce fabrics. It differs from weaving as it uses interlacing loops of yarn rather than the cross patterns of weaving. A series of Wales and Courses are used to produce loops that are interlinked from a single yarn. The fabric produced from knitting therefore has a stretchy characteristic as the loops interlock and can move.

Lace making: lace is an openwork, stitched fabric, patterned with holes. It was originally made from linen, silk, silver or gold thread. Lacework is now most commonly made from cotton or polyester.

Lace may be made by hand with a needle, bobbins or machine and is created by looping and plaiting one thread with another, independent of any backing material. When it is created it is created with a needle, it is known as ‘needle-point lace’. When bobbins, pins and a pillow are used it is known as ‘pillow lace’.

Felting is the process of entangling fibres with each other (the creation of yarns is not needed for this process). The small projecting scales of the fibres fit into one another and closely hold the interlocking fibres together. Felt can be made to different levels of density, depending on its end use. The closer the fibre scales fit into one another, the closer, and more dense the felt becomes. The property of felting depends in part, on the kind of fibres used, and the density it is made to. Felt is fire-retardant, self-extinguishing, can dampen vibration and absorb sound...it can also be made into clothes.

Recovery and Disposal of Textiles

Textiles are nearly 100% recyclable. More and more people are recycling their old clothes, whether it’s through donations, thrift stores or government-run schemes. There has also been a lot of public pushback to ‘fast fashion’ in recent years, especially because of its negative impact on the environment.

The production and manufacture of textiles is closely linked to environmental issues: chemical dyes, washing, finishes, use of pesticides to grow the crops, and land use for growing crops and grazing of animals. The textile-making process is energy and resource-intensive. A lot of water is needed.

By recycling clothing you are cutting down on the number of resources needed to produce new clothing. Recycling can mean:

Reuse
Repair
Reduce to raw materials (original fibres - lower quality - shorter)

In 1984 Polartec©️ forever changed the way the world dressed for cold weather, with the invention of a polar synthetic fleece. By engineering polyester fibres (from recycled plastic) into a distinctly innovative knit pattern, they created a more durable and versatile outerwear fabric. It is thermally insulative, lightweight and fast drying. Polartec had a dramatic effect on the production and use natural fur clothing, although in some parts of the world fur is still used due to its excellent cold weather properties.

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