In this project I am going to be making a side table which is going to be made out of hard wood. Here are some examples of other students from the previous years!
Source: DT Website
Source: DT Room
Source: DT Room
Source: DT Room
This is a small collage I made using photos I found on pinterest of hard wood. This is the material we will be using this project. Hard wood has different colors and patterns making each work unique and different. I will be explaining more below with the research I have done.
Hard wood comes from deciduous trees which loses its leaves in the winter, unlike coniferous trees which keeps its leaves all year around. They are found in tropical and temperate climates all over the world.
Hardwood is known to be strong and durable and some hardwood can last over decade sometime. Because of this, they are used in things that needs to withstand things and be strong.
Hardwood, from deciduous trees like oak and walnut, is commonly used in high-quality furniture such as dining tables, chairs, and cabinets due to its durability, strength, and attractive grain patterns.
Hardwood's unique grain pattern varies by species, influenced by growth conditions. Oak features a prominent, coarse grain, while maple has a finer, more uniform texture. Cherry displays a smooth, straight grain with subtle color variations. These patterns not only enhance visual appeal but also impact the wood's workability and durability, making each piece distinct and valuable.
Hardwood trees grow slowly because they develop dense, strong wood with intricate grain patterns. This slow maturation process ensures durability and high quality. Factors like soil, climate, and species also affect their growth rate.
Hardwood is generally more expensive due to its slower growth, limited availability, and the complexity of harvesting and processing. The time it takes for hardwood trees to mature, along with the need for careful handling to preserve the wood’s quality, contributes to its higher cost. Additionally, popular hardwoods may face increased demand and limited supply, further driving up prices.
In this year's project we need to make a pattern for the side table. This is a photo I found on pinterest for inspiration because I do not know a lot of these things. I think it will be very helpful because I don't want to overcomplicate my design and keep it simple.
My favorites are herringbone, double herringbone, checkerboard, basket weave and wood strip. However I do not want to do basket weave as it looks very complicated and I think I will regret my choice.
For this year, we will be using geometric patterns so I made choose other more unique ones that are not used for wood but I will probably use these.
Note: The design brief and the design restriction are from the DT Website
Design and manufacture a side table that is finished to a high quality. The finish quality of the table should be such that it is suitable to be auctioned at an end of term show.
The side table must be designed for a specific place (building or room) and match the context that it is to be used in. You must define the design context yourself and then research the identified design context.
You should use your research to create a suitable inspiration board to help you generate your ideas. You must present a range of ideas and identify one to manufacture. You must plan appropriately to manufacture your idea and aim to achieve the highest quality outcome in your product.
Restrictions are set to help solve the design problem in a way that is suitable for the context and to ensure a project can be completed to the desired standard with set perameters.
The following design restrictions apply for this project:
The table can be no bigger that 350mm x 350mm or equivelent diameter
The table must combine mostly wood in a geometric pattern of wood and utilise a filler.
The filler must be no more than 5% of the total volume of the table.
You must design your table to show off the beautiful aesthetic quality of the wood you have chosen
Each piece of the table must be no smaller than 20mm in width unless it is an endpiece near the edge of the table that completes the pattern
You must design your table to combine simple geometric shapes with straight edges that can be combined to make more complex shapes. No organic shapes.
I am going to design the table for everyone to use in the living room. The problem I will try to be solving is when you are watching a movie, or playing games on the TV while eating snacks, there is nowhere safe to put the snacks on. If I put it on the sofa, the crumbs can make the sofa dirty and if I put it on my lap, it might be unstable. The side table will solve this problem by giving me a place to place my snacks. It will act like a side table.
I made a pinterest board for this year's project for some information/inspirations. As you can see, there are some pictures of patterns, hardwood colors, hardwood furnitures etc. I think this might help me gather some information for posters or inspiration board I will be doing in the future.
I recommend pinterest more than google because you can just make a collage/board from there and you can see more things related to the board that you made.
You can also share the board to some friends so you can collaborate with other people to add pictures. You can also make sub-parts withing a board if you want to.
This is my inspiration board. This board's sole purpose is to inspire me. All of these pictures are all tangible (real) objects that exist in this world. They are all either tables or artworks. I made it so that most of the photos are wooden because the project is using hard wood and for the different materials, I am only focusing on the patterns used.
For the layout, I was going to do a normal collage, but then I realized that for the next project (pattern research), I will need to lay the pictures out in geometric patterns so I decided to get some practice. I just used the masking tool to do this and it is not very hard. There is an explanation below.
Today, I will be researching patterns (for ideas for the side tabe) and using the masking tool to present them and make them look nicely.
Fonts, Choco Shake (for title) Papernotes (for writing)
Note: These fonts are not in the default settings on procreate. I downloaded them from dafont
This is my pattern research board. I have included 2 kinds of patterns: art deco and minimalism. I chose them because I loved how simple they all looked. The patterns I found had to be minimalistic so I didn't choose any designs with lots of curves in it. One thing I like about art deco is the thin lines (the gold parts) are accentuated and it makes the design more interesting and makes the whole design pop out. For minimalism, I love how clean and simple it is and I figured that it would be good for a table pattern.
Start of by drawing shapes on your blank canvas. The shapes you draw are the places you will be masking your photos into.
Now press on the layer and click on reference. This is will add the word 'reference' underneath the name of your layer.
Now add your chosen photos into your canvas.
Lower the opacity (to see where you are putting your shape) and place it in the shape you want it to mask to. Make sure that your chosen photo fills up the whole space of your chosen shape.
Now press on the 'S' icon on the top bar. That is the masking tool.
Now make sure on the bottom bar, it is set to 'automatic' and 'add' only. If that is true, than select the shape you want to mask your photo into.
Press on 'invert' on the bottom bar. If you did that correctly, the canvas should look something like this.
Swipe down with three fingers and this menu should pop up. Now press 'cut'.
If you did that, your photo should be masked!
Now make the opacity of your photo to 100% again and repeat these steps until you use all of the spaces you made.
Geometric patterns are patterns that include polygons (shapes with straight lines only) and is usually predictable. They usually have some mathematic explanation and is usually symetrical. There are lots of geometric patterns and the one shown in the photo to the left is just one of the many. Geometric patterns are also mostly man-made.
Organic patterns are usually unpredictable and they are found in nature a lot. The patterns are not symetrical and are more natural. These patterns can include marble veining, floral patterns etc. Organic patterns are unique and is hard to replicate exactly the same.
Art Deco is a cool design style that became popular in the 1920s and 1930s. It mixes fancy decorations with modern materials like glass and metal. You can see Art Deco in buildings, furniture, and even in fashion. The style is known for its bold colors, geometric shapes, and shiny surfaces. Some famous examples are the Chrysler Building in New York and the Great Gatsby movie. Art Deco was all about looking forward and celebrating the future!
Minimalism is a design style that started in the mid-20th century and focuses on simplicity and clean lines. It uses just a few colors and shapes, making spaces feel open and calm. Minimalist design often overlaps with geometric patterns, like squares and triangles, which help create a modern look without too much clutter. You can see minimalism in art, architecture, and even everyday objects, where the idea is to highlight only what’s necessary and beautiful.
From this point, I will start doing my initial ideas. This is so that I can make a bunch of designs and then choose some favorites out of them. Initial ideas are not the finished product of the design but kind of like a starting point (you could say).
start by opening the canvas as 'square'
next, open the spanner menu, go to 'canvas' and press on 'crop and resize'
press on the button circled
press on 'milimeters'
change the numbers to '350mm' by '350mm'
now press done
go back to the gallery
rename your arwork as 'table canvas'
press on select
select your square and duplicate
duplicate until you have about 10 squares
select every canvas and press on 'stack' and you are done preparing
Drawing guide is a feature in procreate to help you draw like the name suggests. There are lots of settings that will be helpful in the chapter of designing the design. The drawing guide helps your drawing be more accurate and neat. You can change the color and the opacity to your liking as well.
These are the different types of the guides that I will be introducing:
2D Grid
Isometric
Vertical Symmetry
Horizantal Symmetry
Quadrant Symmetry
Radial Symmetry
The 2D grid is just a grid with squares in it. If you are using this as your guide, I recommend changing the size of the squares (press on grid size) and change it to 20mm because that is the smallest piece allowed for the design (in the design restrictions)
The isometric is the simillar to the 2D grid and serves the same purpose. The grid is just different and that is it. For this, you can change the size to 20mm (design restrictions) to help you not make it too big or too small. The grid on the left shows the grid for the isometric design.
Before we move on, assisted drawing is an important part of the symmetry grids. Assisted drawing is a setting you can use when you are using the 2D grid; or actually you can use it for every single type of drawing guide I'm gonna show. In the 2D grid, it lets you draw only in straight lines either vertical or horizontal (parallel to the lines on the grid). That is shown in the example to the left. In isometric, it follows the same fundamentals, you can only draw lines parallel to the lines shown on the drawing guide. For the symmetry, it is a bit different. Without the assisted drawing, the symmetry things are just lines. However, with assisted drawing, they use symmetry to copy whatever you drew to the other side of the line. Below there are examples of assisted drawing in the symmetry options:
There is a setting where you can add rotational symmetry to these symmetry options. They just add rotational symmetry and that is it.
Note: Rotational symmetry can be added to all examples of symmetry drawing guides, I have only shown one example.
Inspired by then concept of mindmaps, this design went slightly against my original plan for minimalism.
A maze of tangled shapes of different sizes. It still relates to my original insperation board.
This is a particulary intriguing design. I used procreate's symmetry function in order to create this piece
(used the isometric drawing guide)
For certain reasons, this is one of my favorite designs. This can also be considered a simplified version of the 'mindmap' (top left)
This design certainly played into the theme of minimalism. It can also be viewed as a layering of multiple sqaures
This is similar to a checkerboard, with the squares but it has been rotated to make the design diagonal. I liked it because it was simple but not exactly a classic checkerboard.
(used the grid drawing guide)
This was a failed attempt to make a weave. If it didn't fail then it might have been my favorite but I did not have enough time to revisit it.
(used the grid drawing guide)
This is a classic checkeboard design. I wanted to go simple (minimalistic) but I wanted something less classic.
(used the grid drawing guide)
This was inspired by the art deco artstyle, utilizing gold as an outline. I personally love how the gold contrasts with the black, but I don't know if the contrast will be able if it is on wood (the dark brown wouldn't contrast as much)
(used the grid drawing guide)
This is another design inspired by art deco. I used the gold lines again and I focused on using unpredictable geometric lines. I don't really like this because it is not very minimalistic and looks messy.
Another art deco inspiration! I have used this for my redemption on my past attempt to make the design look more simple.
I do not know what this is, but it is kinda trippy (for no reason) and it is kind of 3D. This was not intentional but it ended up looking like this. I honestly like this design because of how different it is from my past designs.
(used the isometric drawing guide)
This is my one of my favorite designs and I chose it because I loved the minimalism that lived inside of it. It was unique to other geometric designs because it did not have a specific pattern and wasn't very predictable. I used 3 colors to show different wood colors. I tried to make it that the same color is not next to each other and that worked except for the dark wood parts.
This is one of my favorite designs because I like being simple and minimalistic was one of my choices. I like the checkerboard style but to make it more interesting, I made the checkerbaord diagonal. For the coloring, I went dark -> medium -> light so it was kind of like a spectrum that restarted all over again.
This was made using the isometric grid and unintentionally turned 3D. I liked this because it was simple, minimalistic that was easy and appealing to the eye. I think this is my ultimate favorite design out of the other 3.
I have started the progress on my design ideas poster but it is not done yet. I have included my three favourite designs along with the initial black and white versions. I have also added photos of the color palette I used. I think using color palettes is helpful because it helped me find the colors that complemented the colors I used. I also added some annotations and text according to the design that I am talking about. I also used my own handwriting so I think that is a part that makes the whole process take longer. But I think that using my own handwriting looks a bit nicer since I have more control over it and I can format it however I want.
before
after
When I got the table guide, I realized that the outline was extremely thin and it was not too pleasing to look at. So, the first thing I did was outline the table again. Although it doesn't sound like a big thing, it made a big difference by making the design outline stand out more and it just looked more better. The brush I used was technical pen since it had a consistent and the settings could go from thin and thick which was good.
For the background color, I wanted a color that was warm and cozy and I decided to use the color 'Quarter Spanish White'. It was not too dark but also not too light so it was noticeable. I think it also complimented the table design colors well so it all fit together.
First, start off by importing your photo. When you upload your photo, a bar automatically appears. Make sure your menu is set to 'distort'. Now from here, you can drag each corner of the design to fit the table. If you find it hard to make the corners fit with the table design, then you can reduce the opacity of the design to make it fit better. A precaution is that when you exit the mode again, the corners of the control parts don't match the corners of the design so it is harder to control.
design 1
design 2
design 3
For the title, I wanted the title in green and make it look cute and cozy (regarding the theme of the poster). I made 3 versions of the title to test which one looked best. In my opinion, I liked 'design 2' the most. It wasn't too plain but it also didn't have too much going on. I also asked for a second opinion, and she also said 'design 2' looks best so that is the one I went with!
For my annotations, I decided to use my own handwriting which was time consuming but it looked less plain and was easier to control. I used different colors for some annotations (no set patterns) and I varied the annotations in long and short.
Overall, I like the whole design ideas poster and how it all came out. I really like how the outline looks much better than the original. I am quite pleased with the color palette and I am glad that I also added the original black and white designs next to the finished ones. However, I would like to improve and making my handwriting less slanted and neater because that part was not executed quite as well as I wished it to be.
CAD stands for computer aided design. I will be doing this on Onshape to prepare for the laser engraving which will be done on the plywood.
To begin, the first thing I did on the new file was import a picture of my design onto onshape which will help me get a more accurate design to what I would like. After this, I created a sketch by clicking on 'sketch'. I did the sketch on the top plane and after that, I get a new top bar with tools I can use. There are many tools: line, spline, mirror, perpendicular and more! For this I used lines, parallel. perpendicular and the dimension tool the most. This is because I noticed in procreate, it is harder to be accurate since there are no tools such as the ones I have just mentioned. I also soon realized that my imported procreate design did not help much because of its inaccuracy. Instead, I used the dimension tool to keep the same distance each part. the parallel tool so that each rectangle of the design is parallel and identical to eachother and the perpendicular tool for the lines that go from the bottom to the top in a perpendicular manner. All of these are called constraints. If you look under, you see photos that compare the procreate design to my actual sketch and you can see the clear difference of accuracy.
line
dimensi-on
perpend-icular
parallel
sketch
imported photo design on Onshape
sketch with procreate design under
sketch on its own
To extrude, I needed two extrudes to extrude everything. This is because I cannot extrude shapes that are touching each other. The extrude depth was 15mm and after selecting the first batch of shapes, I sucessfully extruded. Next, I had to extrude the remaining shapes and I had to be careful not to extrude the same shapes again. After extruding, I colored the shapes like it was in the original design; dark and medium colored brown. I changed the colors by going to the parts. I select the shapes I want to color the same color and then I right click which opens up a menu. I click 'edit appearance' and there I can change the color!
extrude 1 (after coloring)
extrude 2 (after coloring)
Now I need to make a drawing file which must be the proper format for the laser engrave. To do this, I created a drawing by clicking on the plus and onto 'create drawing'. Next, I will get a pop-up window where I select the following things:
Custom template
Standard: ISO
Size: A2
Border: do not include
Titleblock: Do not include
Select OK
Press this button called 'insert' and a menu like the one on the right will appear. Select 'Part Studio 1'.
This menu will appear on the top and select the following:
View orientation: Top
View Scale: 1:1
Click anywhere on the canvas to place the drawing
After that, press this button which turns off projection views.
Now right click on your mouse
Choose an appropriate name and make all the settings to this. After you exported, just upload the file to the google classroom assignment.
For this part, this is not a designing process, instead this is presenting the work. Since I haven't even started making the table itself, I will use AR to project the design and I can see what it would look like.
To begin this process, I must chamfer the table. To do this, I selected the chamfer tool and select all the edges so it turns yellow. When I selected all the edges, I pressed the green tick which saved my chamfer.
To add the table legs, I opened the table assembly and copied it to the workspace of my table. How I did this was to copy the workspace and name it and then I did the following:
insert
other documents
owned by me
select your table
click on the workspace
green tick
Select the table parts by holding the shift key and selecting all listed parts from the 6th to the bottom.
Position the table by using the arrow
Select export
Name the file appropriately and make the file format STEP. After this, move the file to your iPad (you can air drop if you are on the computer).
To set the whole file up, import the file to shapr3D by just pressing the import menu, files and then just select your table in STEP format. In shapr3D, you can assign materials to each part.
These are the materials I used to achieve a dark and medium-light wood tone and the cast iron was for the legs. To assign a material, I just need to drag and drop the material to the preferred place.
The reason why we imported the table to shapr3D is because its AR projection is amazing and looks realistic. Here are some photos:
AR table compared to real table
let's go masha!!
As you can see, the AR is very realistic and compared to the other tables, at first glance, it is harder to tell which one is real and which one is not (the legs kind of give it away).
This is my final design poster. I made this poster in procreate and I tried to use my skills in procreate to make this poster the best I could. I used the same color palette as the one I used in my design ideas poster. For this poster, I went for a minimalistic and cozy vibe, hence why I tried to choose more warm tone colors , although they were neutral as well. The photo fits into the context because I said that I want my table to be a side table but since I didn't have shapr3D on my iPad, I had to use the school one which is the reason why I couldn't take a photo of my table in context (since it would have to be in my house and i can't take the school iPad home). To make the design more unique, I added the table from the design ideas poster and made half of it black and white by making the saturation from the HSB (hue, saturation and brightness) menu to 0. I also added a part of the table and put it on the side of the poster, lowering the brightness in the process. I also added a photo of the table from the top view with the materials added and I drew shadows of the table and also the shadow of the table legs.
the manufacturing stage is to make the wood pieces of the table and put the together to give me my final table! The first thing I need to do is to make a paper template so my wood pieces will be as accurate as the model I made in Onshape
I got four pieces of A3 paper which, if stuck together would make my design. However, the A3 paper had to overlap if I wanted it to be stuck perfectly so I cut the paper so it fits together. The photo on the right shows two pieces of paper. As you can see, they make up my design and haven't been cut. On the right of that picture, you see two pieces of paper stuck together with masking tape. I have cut both pieces of paper in that picture. For me to finish setting up, I need to cut all four species and stick them together so that I have two copies of my design. To do this, I used the paper cutter which was very convenient since it was very precise and easy to use. My design was easier to cut since there were lines already in the design so I just followed that. In other designs, it might have been harder to find the middle of the design and cut it but I just cut my design to one-third and two-thirds. Although the design was not cut in half, this was much more efficient and easier to do. As you can see, the design fits perfectly onto the wood piece.
Since I have repeating shapes in my design, I cut out a test shape to check if my shapes are accurate. For this, I used a craft knife to cut out a piece of my design out!
This is the final outcome of my piece!
I also numbered my pieces so it is easier to piece them together if I cut them out.
For the test I used the MDF material which is made out of leftover wood dust. This is perfect for making test shapes as it is cheap, easy to cut and easy to find. For this, I just drew the outline of the shape that I cut out (above) on to the MDF material. I used the scroll saw to cut it and this is the final outcome. I made one more because I thought that I could do better and I wanted more practice with the scroll saws.
For my wood, I got wood in the medium and dark areas. Howevcer, it was hard to find the perfect wood color I wanted to find. The wood color I preferred was a little orange however most of the dark colored woods mostly had red undertones. In the medium section, it was less harder however most of the woods were pretty light so there was less contrast between the medium and light colored woods. Sadly, the dark colored wood was two-toned (one side was lighter than the other one) so it looked a little uneven.
I decided to start off with the dark colored wood. The first thing I did was to draw one shape on the wood. Surprisingly the height of one piece (approximately) was half the wood so I used the band saw (with the teacher's assistance since it is hard and dangerous) to cut the wood in half. After that, I just chose a random half and drew shapes on the wood. I made sure to use a ruler. I cut the wood on the scroll saws but I found it difficult compared to making the test pieces. The wood took longer to cut and if pushed too hard, the wood would come out wobbly. Sadly, most of the pieces were wobbly and were smaller than the actually pieces. In my attempt to fix the wood, I accidentally cut myself (yes I had to go to the hospital) so that is something to beaware about. The week after that when I got back, I sanded the pieces so they were less wobbly and more straight. Fortunately, some of the pieces fit in because I don't know why this is but for some reason, some pieces are bigger and some are smaller in the template. I repeated this process and in my 2nd go, the wood was less wobbly and it looked a lot better!
After cutting the shapes, I roughly put the wood where I want to put them. As you can see, since the wood is two-toned, it looks uneven but there was really nothing I could do about the color. In some pieces, the design cuts off so I need to cut those parts off. Additionally, some wood pieces were to small compared to the design which meant that I need to fill it with wood filler which I hope will look natural.
This photo (the one below) is after I cut the parts off. You can see that it fortunately fits perfectly to the size of the design. There are more pieces such as this so I must cut them off was well. The hard thing about cutting these pieces off is that they are quite small so it is hard to cut it perfectly while being careful.
I need to add finishing touches such as sanding away some small parts or cutting some parts that I didn't cut yet so it fits in the square shape. To sand or cut it accurately, I drew lines to where I want to cut or sand to just so I do not need to go and sand again or so I do not cut too much off. After this, I am going to start cutting the wood pieces for the medium colored wood.
For the medium wood, I also used the band saw just like for the dark colored wood with the same reason of how all my pieces have repeating shapes with (mostly) similar heights. Since I used it better, I felt more comfortable and familiar around it but I still had the teacher's assistance but I felt much more confident using the machine. After that, I just draw my pieces on to the wood, cut and repeat. After I finish the whole wood plank, I go try to fit my pieces in between the gaps. I cut or sand according to how 'off' the shape is, If the pieces have a little gap, there's nothing I can do (unless I make a new piece but that is time consuming) so as I said before, I will fill it wood filler. I continue this proccess until I finish cutting all the shapes.
Some problems I faced was that the wood pieces was sticking out of the square shape and most of the time, I just sanded it away but sometimes, the protruding parts were too big to sand but to small to cut using the scroll saw. So I used the band saw to cut those 'too big but too small' parts. The teacher did this for me and I just drew the lines on the parts I wanted to cut. This was very efficient as the band saw doesn't take much time up and is less dangerous than using the scroll saw (I mean, at least for me?). Some other problems were waiting in the line. While not necessarily a problem, I felt like this was time consuming and contribute to 'lack of time'. Therefore, I decided when I was going to cut something, I cut as many pieces I can at once, when I sanded, I sanded after I cut many pieces and although this might be annoying for other people, I think this was the best way to compromise as you can get more done and minimize the chance of having not enough time.
Some other problems were that some parts were sticking out of the inital square shape. However, this isn't as much of a big problem because I need to plane the square shape after gluing which will cut those parts off. However, I still need to be aware if the shapes were too small and there were gaps between the piece and the edges, then that would be a problem because it would be too difficult to fill that part with wood filler.
Another problem I faced was that I wasn't aware that 3 of my pieces had a small line in the middle which was a shorter height then the other pieces. That meant I either have to sand the whole thing down to match those heights or just remake the pieces. I figured that just remaking the pieces would take less time so I did that with the help of my teacher who used the band saw for me since I was running out of time to glue in that lesson.
Another problem is that some of the pieces have like a little lines that was caving in on the end meaning that I would have to fill that up. I replaced a piece with a relatively big line before I glued the whole thing down, but sadly, some pieces had some lines so I need to fill that up.
For this stage, I needed to take all my pieces off and then put a 'not too thin but not too thick' layer of glue on the wood piece. I spread the glue with an extra piece of wood that I had not used or needed. After that, I stuck each piece on making sure I aligned them well. I stuck the end pieces first because if they did not align to the design, then it would be difficult to use wood filler to fill the missing parts up. After I stuck some pieces down, I had to push it so that it sticks better and it stays there. I typically did this after every row of wood (my design had three rows) and when I was sticking the pieces of the next row, I put something heavy on top. I think that helped with not moving the pieces that might've potentially been affected while gluing the other pieces. After gluing everything, I checked everything and gave it a nice push and then waited it for it to dry. This typically takes around 1 day (maybe more) to dry however I will continue with this in the next lesson.
In this lesson, the band saw was used to cut the edges of the table. Everybody must do this since the plywood that we stuck our pieces on to are slightly bigger than the actual square. Additionally, I had some pieces that were sticking out. To do this, I used the plastic guide to help to accurately cut the table. On the plastic guide, there are important measurements, such as the center point.
To edge, I used this machine to make an edge. This basically adds an edge like in the picture on the right. I must do this to all the sides and I make a bigger edge on the top and a smaler edge on the bottom. However, I accidentally edged the bottom with the big edge so it looks uneven but thankfully it's on the bottom so it is less visible. However, after edging, it can be uneven as I struggled to push the same pressure everytime so after edging, I sanded it to make it a little bit more even. So it looks smoother and nicer however, from a close view, it may look a little uneven.
To put on the legs, I needed the things shown on the left and the legs and some tools like drills and a screw driver. To put the legs on, I need to drill a hole in the place where the screw will go and to do this, I put the legs on, drew a circle in the hole, took it out and used that as a guide to drill a hole.
After that, I put the leg back on, add the circular thing and then the screw. After that, I just drive the screw until it is stable. I repeat this process for both sides of the legs and repeat that for all four legs.
Firstly, there was two choices for the legs. One with a circle on the bottom and one with two parts (it's hard to explain so I added a picture on top of the text). I chose the second one as I personally thought it looked more polished and modern.