The three weeks leading to Lent (Sarakosti) each have names. In older times,Profoni, the first of these weeks, heralded the approach of carnival season (Apokries). The second and third weeks, named Kreatini and Tyrini and derived from the Greek words for meat and cheese, respectively, indicated the food permitted by religion, even on Wednesdays and Fridays, traditionally days of fasting throughout the year for Orthodox Christians. Tsiknopempti, literally meaning “grill-smoke(d) Thursday”, lies in the middle of Kreatini, the meat-eating week, and has stood as a favorite annual celebration for Greeks, past and present, who adore meat dishes. On this particular Thursday of each year, outdoor barbecues, usually makeshift, are set up by locals throughout the country, in neighborhoods, on roads and at squares, theintention being for the smell of burnt fat to pervade the air.

Shops serving food, such as cafes, delicatessens, restaurants, tavernas, and groceries, as well as households, traditionally grill meat on this smoky Thursday! In the past, all households, even poorer ones struggling to make ends meet, could be expected to grill meat for the occasion. The procedure was carried out by less privileged households as proof to neighbors of their grit and equal standing in society, while also serving as a morale booster for struggling families amid an era when poverty was viewed as a major vulnerability.

Once the meat was grilled and accompanying dishes prepared, family members would gather around a table to eat, drink, dance and sing in celebration of the carnival season.

Though “Tsiknopempti” has nowadays lost its religious dimension, the ritualremains strong and is widely celebrated by hordes of meat enthusiasts, families, couples, and friends. Traditional Greek tavernas, those sporting checkered or paper table cloths, even greaseproof paper, as part of a wider down-to-earth or humble atmosphere, are major attractions on this day. Some even offer live music performed by small groups, usually featuring guitar, bouzouki, and vocals.

Tavernas typically fill on this night of the year, pushing workers at the grill and waiters to their limits. For locals, this evening is taken as an opportunity to catch up with friends or family for an overabundance of meat and accompanying side dishes. This is a day on the calendar when it is best to avoid well-known tavernas as service quality is likely to be diminished by the rush. Reservations are necessary about five hours in advance, even at unassuming local hangouts.

Good-quality food may be found at tavernas a few kilometers beyond the Athens area, but they, too, will most likely be packed and noisy. Certain outer suburb areas and their tavernas are renowned for their meat offerings.Hasia, on the western side, is a great district for juicy lamb chops and “exohiko” (details listed below), while Kalyvia, on the city’s eastern outskirts, is renowned for its traditional tavernas serving steaks, chops, and “biftekia” (seasoned mince patties), all on the grill. Expect to find various meat-on-spit variations at the Palia Penteli square in northern Athens. These include “kontosouvli”, “kokoretsi” (details for both listed below), pork roll, and lamb, all prepared in ways that are also customary in Greece during Easter celebrations.

In nearby Melissia, two tavernas enjoy fine reputations for their rib steaks, while Kantza, on the capital’s northeastern outskirts, is a favorite destination for Athenians wishing to enjoy T-bone steaks. Potato fries, “tzatziki” (yogurt-based dip with shredded cucumber and garlic), “tyrokafteri” (spicy cheese spread), Greek salad, small cheese pies, and various meat dishes such as “keftedakia” (meat balls), pork and beef sausages, “kokoretsi”, and grilled liver are usual side dishes. Also, lamb sweetbreads and other specialties are ideal accompaniments for wine drinking. Low-priced wine that is usually served by the jug and beer are typically served on the night. Some spots offer micro-brewery beers, produced both on the mainland and islands.

The glossary below will help you order exactly what you want:

Exohiko: Various meat pieces with pepper, tomato, and spices, all wrapped in greaseproof paper and slowly prepared, either in the oven or on the grill. Certain recipes include “kaseri” or “graviera” cheese. Recommended with wine.

Kebab: This kebab is different to the kebab made famous by Turkish eateries around the world. It is made with either small are larger sized mince pieces of various types. It can be made using beef and pork, combined, or just pork or lamb. The mince is rolled extensively, making the resulting kebab softer than “biftekia” mince patties. Garlic may be included. It is grilled for ideal results. The well-known “Adana” type kebab, a recipe of Turkish origins, is quite spicy.

Kokoretsi: Pieces of liver, kidneys, lungs, usually from lamb, wrapped in intestine and grilled on a spit. Its exterior is crispy.

Kontosouvli: Depending on the area, this meat-on-spit offering can be made using pieces of lamb meat, pork, or a combination of both, while chicken is also commonly used. The mid-sized meat pieces are seasoned and slid onto a spit. Some enthusiasts add fresh tomatoes or peppers between the meat pieces for extra flavor.

Brizoles (steak): Beef and pork steaks are served, either on the grill or hot plate. If dining at a taverna, individual requests for steaks preferred well-done, medium-well, medium, medium-rare, or rare, will most probably be ignored at the grill. Such requests tend to be met only at restaurants and tavernas specializing in grilled meat. Well-done meat is the standard in Greece.

Loukanika (sausages): Sausages prepared in Greece are nothing like German or Austrian recipes. Sausages here are made using coarsely-mashed meat, either pork, beef, or both, usually with leek, garlic, as well as strong spices such as paprika. Ideally prepared on the grill, but traditional tavernas sometimes use frying pans.

Tigania: Pronounced by accentuating the “a” of the last syllable, this meat recipe is based on boneless meat pieces, usually lean pork or chicken. The rest of the recipe depends on each chef. Ask for details.