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Day 9 Aphrodisias

The ancient city of Aphrodisias, once the capital of the province of Lydia near to the small village of Geyre was over an hour’s journey from our overnight stop in Pamukkale through the Dandalaz valley with its rich vegetation of almond, pomegranate and poplar trees. The first part of the visit was to the Museum to see the many exhibits of stone statues that have been excavated from Aphrodisias. Personally I would prefer to see the pieces in the natural setting of the ruins but it isn’t hard to imagine them in their former places and contemplate the splendour of the artwork on display. The importance of the city is clearly shown by the sheer size of the site and the grandeur of its buildings. The name Aphrodisias is derived from the goddess of nature, beauty, love and plenty, Aphrodite, being surrounded by fertile fields producing all types of provisions, thriving wool and cotton industry, highly developed commercial, political, religious and cultural institutions, making it a largely self sufficient city.

The group had gathered together around Funda in the main courtyard outside the museum ready to continue on with a tour around the site. It was just a short walk beyond the trees revealed the impressive sight of the ornamental gateway known as the Tetrapylon because of it four groups of four fluted columns supporting the decorative triangular shaped lintels. Built around the middle of the 2nd Century AD it was the entrance for pilgrims visiting the Temple of Aphrodite. The whole structure was actually repaired and reconstructed during the end of the 20th Century. Following the path away from the main site across a wide open expanse we walked towards a large mound which turned out to be an enormous stadium. I scrabbled to the top of the terraced seating to gaze down onto the elongated ellipse stretching some 260m with an estimated capacity of 30,000 spectators. The arena is long and narrow suggesting the main use was for athletics contest and to demonstrate Elizabeth decided she would jog the whole length there and back, quite a feat in the heat of the morning sun. On her return she was greeted by cheers and a round of applause from the eighteen spectators who had watched her finish her run. After the 7th Century Earthquake and damaged the theatre in the city the Romans started to use the eastern end of the arena for other events such as games, circuses and wild beast shows.

We walked back towards the main city complex up to the site of the Temple of Aphrodite with its rectangular layout of over forty columns of which only fourteen are still standing it formed the nucleus of the city. Directly south of the temple is the Odeon which is reached by walking past the Bishops Palace a large building constructed in later stages of Roman period and later used in the Byzantine era as the residence of the governor or bishop indicating that the temple area remained a religious and administrative hub into Christian times. The Odeon is a small semi circular shaped theatre mainly used for concerts and lectures, believed to have been constructed around the 2nd Century AD with its walls covered with mosaics and statues that now reside in the museum. It is thought that the main structure was covered with a wooden roof. We left the Odeon retracing our route past the Bishops Palace to the main street turning towards the structure of Hadrian’s Baths where Funda described the functions of each of the rooms. The central room is the caldarium or hot room, surrounded by four other large rooms, namely the tepidarium or warm room, sýýdatorium or sweat room, apoditerium or dressing room and lastly the frigidarium or cold room.

From the baths we walked through the Portico of Tiberius to rejoin the main path climbing up the western slope of the acropolis, a Greek term meaning high ground, towards the theatre. From this vantage point we could see most of the site below giving a good idea of its size and obvious importance over the centuries.

Day 10 Ephesus

It was an early start to the day arriving at Ephesus around 8:30am. This ancient site is a very popular tourist destination and can become extremely crowded by late morning explained Funda has the coach pulled into the parking lot. Even at this early hour a number of large coach were already parked indicating that visitors had already arrived. After purchasing the entrance tickets Funda handed them out so that we could pass through the security turnstiles. Dating back to the Neolithic Age around 6000 BC evidence shows that there has always been a settlement in the surrounding area of Ephesus. History details the growth, destruction, re-growth, wars, invasion, peace and the eventual decline of the city with the silting up of the harbour and its abandonment in the 15th Century. Over those centuries the area as seen many changes and what exists today is a combination of all those eras put together. Our tour started at the top of the main street leading to the heart of the city with a look at the Odeon, a semi circular terraced theatre that could hold up to 1,500 people to be entertained with plays and concerts. Built in 150 AD with funds donated by Vedius Antonius and his wife the upper part of the theatre was decorated with red granite pillars characterised by slender fluted columns and intricate capitals decorated with acanthus leaves and scrolls in the Corinthian style of architecture.

Walking away from the Odeon we soon came to a crossroads entitled Domitian Street leading to the ruins of the Temple of Domitian, the first to be built in the honour of an emperor in around 81 – 96 AD. There is little left of the structure with only a couple of columns and a lintel signifying its existence with the statues being removed to be display in the museum in Selçuk. One interesting artefact found in Domitian Square was the stone carving of the winged Goddess of Victory, Nike, holding a garland of laurel leaves giving the form similar to the stylized swish of the logo on the Nike sportswear. Walking away from the square down the gentle slope of Curettes Way paved with stone and marble remnants recycled from other parts of the city following the 4th Century earthquake and lined with empty pedestals where once statues resided, which are now in museums dotted around the world, we came across the second sacred building dedicated to a ruling emperor the Temple of Hadrian. The Corinthian styled temple is one of the most attractive structures on the street with its monumental porch leading to the main chamber. The porch façade indicates that the temple was dedicated by P. Quintilius to the emperor following his visit to Ephesus in 128 AD. The columns support a semi circular arch that depicts the Tyche, the goddess of fortune and protector of the city. Behind the temple are the remains of the Baths of Scholastikia, constructed at the end of the 1st century and named after a rich Ephesian woman with a restored statue of her placed in its original position within the building. Behind this structure we entered the public latrines with Jim instantly sitting on one of the open stone benches with Mo alongside giving a clear idea of the lack of intimacy afforded when using the toilet. ‘Do you come here often?’ asked Jim to which Mo replied, ‘Well, once or twice a day.’

From the latrines it is just a short walk to the icon of Ephesus the remarkable façade of the Library of Celsus which has been reconstructed from the original collapsed pieces with a clever design that gives the illusion of being larger than it actually is. The library was built between 110 and 135 AD by the Consul Julius Aquila as a mausoleum for his father, Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, governor of the Asian Provinces. I climbed the nine steps and through one of the tree main entrances to the building with their elevated columns on pedestals and niches containing replica statues personifying wisdom, knowledge, destiny and intelligence since the originals have been taken to the Ephesus museum in Vienna in 1910. Behind the façade is a large single room which would have contained the reading material of an estimated 12,000 scrolls. When looking up at the second tier of the build the clever use of smaller columns does fool the brain into thinking the building is much taller. I walked down the steps and through the Gate of Mazaeus and Mithridates and into the Agora where Nerida asked me to take her picture stood in front of short column with scrolls carved on the top. Adjusting for the perspective I photographed her as though scrolls were her hair giving the appearance of Princess Leia from Star Wars. Continuing our walk across the Agora to the Harbour Street and the enormous theatre built on the slope of Mount Panayir with its sixty tiers of seats split into three sections by two diazoma (horizontal walkways) its estimated capacity of 25,000 spectators could watch plays and gladiatorial contests. I decided to climb to the top to take in the great view of the road leading out towards where the harbour once was with the blue Aegean Sea now about 3km away.

Day 10 St Johns Basilica

From this high vantage point I could view the Roman Display going on along the harbour walkway with Roman Centurions marching about and gladiators showing off their fighting skills with rousing music of trumpets sounding out over the city. Mo was sat with Nerida lower down on the terracing so I climbed down to join them and sat admiring the stage with its ornate décor of columns with niches, windows and statues. The tour was at an end as we left the theatre making our way the exit only to be confronted for the first time by pushy sellers trying to off load their tourist tat. Forcing ourselves past we managed to find Funda waiting in the coach park for the whole group to congregate before taking us back to Selçuk.

It was about 11:00am when the coach dropped us off in the centre of town, having decided to explore rather than going back to the hotel. We had been joined by Diane, Paul and Jim, who suggested we find a café to have a cool refreshing beer after the exertions of the morning in the warm sun. We walked along the street to the square with the large fountain with table and chairs laid out in front of the many cafés. We all sat around a small table amongst those playing their games of backgammon and drink fresh çay. The waiter came over to the table and I ordered beş bira (five beers.) The waiter looked puzzled and then disappeared to one of the other cafés, returning with another waiter who explained that this café only sold tea and would we like to move to a table in his. So we all got up and moved to the next cafe and were soon enjoying a refreshing Efes pils. It was nice to just relax in the shade drinking our beer whilst chatting and watching the day go by.

Everyone was now starting to feel a little peckish so the waiter was called over and asked for a menu.  I studied it and decided to try a Turkish Pizza with pepperoni with a second round of beers being ordered as well.  When my order arrived it can only be described as an elongated pizza base with cheese, tomato and pepperoni which is then cut into thin slices across at an angle rather than triangles.  We had all enjoyed our afternoon meal with a couple of beers but it was time to move on and explore some more with Mo myself and Paul choosing to have a look at the ruins on the opposite side of the main road running through the town.  Perched on the hill is a fortress which we knew was closed for restoration work but next to it is the Basilica and tomb of St. John the Apostle.  Climbing the small hill to the entrance we paid the reasonable 5 Lira fee and went inside. Christian traditions tell that St. John brought the Mother Mary to this area as well as writing his gospel and died in the area.  He was buried on the slope of Ayosolug Hill in 100 AD making him about 100 years old.  Initially a small chapel was built over his grave in the 4th Century which was expanded to a Basilica in the 7th Century during the reign of Emperor Justinian.  I strolled around the site amongst the many stone columns that once formed the structure of the church with the sound of a hand grinder occasionally breaking the silence with the ongoing work to renovate the ruins.  It was now becoming quite warm in the afternoon sun so I decided to go and sit in the shade of the trees taking in the view of the ruins with the fortress in the background flying the Turkish flag.  Mo was still wandering around and later back at the hotel told me she had found and photographed a tortoise living in the Basilica.

The evening began with a trip into the hills to the secluded village of Şirince which is about 6km from Selçuk.  History states the village was settled in the 15th Century following the abandonment of Ephesus by freed Greek slaves who named the village Çirkince (meaning "Ugly" in Turkish) to deter others from following them, but renamed to Şirince (meaning "Pleasant") in 1926 by the governor of Izmir Province.  Having made our way to the village the coach was barred from entering by the adamant attendant and driver making everyone board the comical little train for the short journey down the narrow street to the village centre.  It would have been just as quick to walk as we bounced around in our seats whilst onlookers gawped at the sight of the train passing by.  Obviously the prospect of a few tourists getting off the train in the centre of the market stalls signalled the opportunity to try and sell us things we didn’t want or need.  Quickly Mo and I walked through the market ignoring the sellers’ shouts and made our way up a narrow steep street where we found a nice quiet café serving a good quality cup coffee and çay.  We sat outside in the garden taking in the tranquil spot we had found enjoying our drinks.  We were just leaving the café to make our way back to the centre of the village when we met Tim and Helen coming down the steep street we had partially climbed.  They had been exploring in the upper part of the village amongst the small red tiled covered houses that cling to the hillside.  The four of us made our way back to the village centre where everyone else was waiting to board the silly train to take us along the street to the coach.