Page 01
A Turkish Delight
Ancient Mosques & Rivers Cruises
Day 1 Istanbul
Off like a shot, Funda our guide with her umbrella held high was leading the group the busy streets to board the tram to Sultanahmet. It was the morning rush hour and all the trams where jammed packed with commuters pressed up against the doors, so we waited, letting numerous trams pass by until one arrived we all could get on. I didn’t mind standing in the crowded carriage because it was only a few stops to our destination in the centre of the cultural quarter of the city.
The Sultanahmet Camii or the Blue Mosque as it is more commonly known to us tourists was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed I, with construction starting in 1609 on the site of the Palace of the Byzantine Emperors and taking seven years to complete with the first opening ceremony taking place in 1617. We entered through the main gate into a large courtyard to find a long queue up to the main door into the mosque. Fortunately tour groups are allowed to enter from the side door to avoid the queues. Removing our shoes, to help protect the carpets, we entered into the prayer area which was illuminated by the natural light pouring in through the coloured glass windows and the large chandeliers hanging from the high dome above. The interior is covered with many blue coloured patterned tiles and this is where the familiar Blue Mosque name comes from. The buildings structure is very impressive with it high dome supported by large square stone columns, a real feet of engineering for its time. On leaving the interior we walked out and were able to see the mosque in all its glory with the four minarets in the corners, each with three balconies, surrounding the dome that stands out against the skyline. After taking some photographs it was time to walk to the Topkapi Palace.
Day 1 Istanbul
We walked through the Gate of Salutation and entered what was like an airport security zone to get into the Palace. Our bags where scanned in the x-ray machine whilst we had to walk through a metal detector with the security guards keeping an eager eye on everyone walking through. We had entered into the garden area of the palace with tree lined paths fanning out in all directions. The palace was the official residence of the Sultans for almost 400 years and was the setting for state occasions and royal entertainments. We walked along a path that led to the Inner Treasury Room which now houses an Armoury Collection of over 400 weapons spanning over 1,300 years dating back to the 7th Century. Passing through the Gate of Felicity we came across a narrow entrance to the Sultans Throne room, with its large glass partition and inside the throne set out for receiving officials to the palace. The poor lighting and reflections on the glass made it difficult to see inside so I quickly walked on into the third courtyard, which was very busy with tourists queuing to see the collection of jewellery, works of art and sentimental heirlooms housed in the Imperial Treasury rooms. The queue snaked in and out of each room, slowly moving along, with everyone amazed by the exquisite gold pieces encrusted with fine gems and precious stones. The last stage of the tour of the palace was to take in the view from the courtyard looking out over the Bospherous with the commercial ships sailing by.
It was now nearly lunch time so Funda led everyone to a local restaurant to grab a bite to eat before leaving us to our own devices for the rest of the afternoon. I enjoyed a plate of Kofte (meatballs) with a shepard salad with a refreshing glass of cola.
Day 1 Istanbul
We left the restaurant and headed back to the tram stop at Sultanahmet where I had to ask the platform official in his little kiosk where to purchase the tokens to get through the automatic barriers. He just grunted “Grand Café” and got on with whatever he did in his little kiosk. Confused I looked around the area and eventually noticed a queue outside a small café on the opposite side of the tracks with a little sign above saying 'Jeton.’ Funda had told us earlier to look out for these signs so we could obtain the tokens to ride the tram. After purchasing ‘iki jeton’ (two tokens) we could now pass through the barriers and board the tram to Eminönü.
The tram meandered through the narrow crowded streets passing shops, bars and restaurants to the ferry terminal opposite the Yemi Camii, another grand mosque by the water front. The ferry terminal was a hive of activity with passengers boarding the boats that where taking then to other parts of the city. We opted for a ferry cruise up the Bospherous that would take us north towards the Black Sea. I purchased two tickets and we boarded the ferry with its black hull, white superstructure and blue diesel smoke billowing from the yellow funnel. Mo decided she wanted to sit on the upper decks at the rear so she could sit in the sun which was now high in the hazy blue sky. The Bospherous forms part of the boundary between Europe and Asia is the narrowest strait used for international shipping in the world, connecting the Black sea with the Sea of Marmara and onto the Mediterranean. The ferry slowly slipped from its moorings with the sea churning and bubbling white at the stern as it headed out into the open waters. The outline of the city was silhouetted with minarets, domes, tower blocks and satellite dishes against the bright sky.
The ferry sailed passed the large cruise liner moored on the west bank of the river. Now we could understand why the Topkapi Palace was so crowded, when these floating hotels arrive in port everywhere soon becomes swamped with tourists.
Day 1 Istanbul
Our journey continued under the first of the two high level bridges, the Bospherous Bridge, constructed in 1973, spanning 1,074m. Now following the east bank we could see many brightly coloured apartments built one above the other clinging to the steep hillside each giving a perfect waterfront view for their owners. Cruising on next was the Rumelihisarı, a fortified castle on the hill built by the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II between 1451 and 1452, before he conquered Constantinople. The castle is situated just before the second bridge, the Fatih Sultan Mehmet, which spans 1,090m and was completed in 1988 and is about 5km north of the first. Once the ferry had passed under the bridge it started to make a long turn to port for our return journey back.
The Bospherous is a very busy stretch of water with large oil tankers and cargo vessels making their way along it. The ferry was quick in comparison to these bulky craft and was able to steer amongst them. Upon entering the ferry terminal the sun was now low in the sky and glistening across the surface of the sea highlighting the backdrop of domes and minarets.
