Trip 10 - Switzerland

For our first ever train holiday what better place to visit but Switzerland with its high mountains, large lakes and amazing efficiency.

28/12/2011 - Runcorn to London

The train slowly pulled into the platform at Runcorn Station has we walked along the platform looking for the coach with our reserved seats.  We settled down in our window seats across the table with Mo facing the direction of the train whilst I travelled backward as always.  It was dark outside so we could only see the occasional light whiz by.  The journey was uneventful unlike the last time we travelled to London for our trip to Paris when the high winds had brought down the power lines and we waiting on the train in Runcorn station for an hour before moving but that is possibly another story.  The train arrived at Euston on time and we made the ten minute walk to the hotel 'Megaro' situated close to St. Pancras International.  We dropped our bags in our room and headed out to sink a few pints of London Pride in the nearest pub, O’Neill’s on Euston Road before returning to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.

29/12/2011 - London to Vevey

Peter Dace, the trips guide introduced himself, picking up on Mo's accent he asked which team we supported.  She replied 'I'm a Red, he's a Blue' whilst his colleague placed numbered tickets on our baggage. Mo's bag had number thirteen whilst mine was fourteen.  She wasn't happy with this and after some debate we decided to keep our luggage with us rather than going to the baggage office to have it put on the train.  We made our way through the security and passport gates and found a place to sit to wait for our train.  Hundreds of people, many of them excited children, pass through St. Pancras every day heading for Belgium, France and Euro Disney on the EuroStar trains that have revolutionised the way we get to Europe these days.  I had a wander around the departure lounge, going to the toilet and getting some Euros from the ATM before rejoining Mo who was waiting patiently for the train to be called.  At 10:05 GMT the platform doors opened and we ascended the escalator on to the platform and boarded the first class carriage and found our seats which were facing backwards to the direction of the train.

Keith and Lorraine introduced themselves, they were in the seats opposite and Mo asked whether she could sit in one of the forward facing seats.  Keith kindly obliged and gave up his seat so I offered my window seat to him.  The train pulled out of the station on time and was soon speeding its way across the countryside on the high speed link to the channel tunnel at Folkstone via Ebbsfleet International where more passengers boarded.  We chatted amongst ourselves getting to know more about our travel companions over a complementary meal served with tea or coffee.  The train entered the tunnel for its thirty two mile journey under the sea of the channel.  Twenty minutes later we entered France accompanied by the chimes of our mobile phones receiving welcome messages from the local network.  The journey continued across Northern France and we were soon entering the suburbs of Paris with its buildings, vehicles and trains covered in artistic graffiti.  From the train Mo pointed out her favourite Paris landmark, the Sacré Cœur, which we had visited back in October, before it vanished from view and we entered the Gare du Nord at 13:30 CET.

Peter collected everyone together at the end of the platform and lead us all outside to the awaiting coach that would transfer us across the busy city of Paris for our next train from the Gare du Lyon at 15:59 CET.  Plenty of time you would have thought but a problem with the luggage and the porter’s meant those that had had their luggage loaded on the train in London had nothing to put on the coach.  Mo was glad we had chosen to lug it around with us.  We boarded the coach and waited for the rest of the luggage to arrive.  Luckily John a fellow passenger, fluent in French managed to sort it all out and find the missing bags and we were on our way only to drive straight into a traffic jam.  Would we make our connection?  Time was moving on and the coach was creeping along at a snail’s pace.  The jam had been caused by road works with all the lanes having to filter into one lane.  Once past the coach was able to use the bus lanes to speed up the trip.  Upon arrival we still had to unload our bags and find the correct platform and get our tickets validated.  I left Mo with the tickets and dragged our bags along the platform to find our coach and get them aboard.  Throwing the bags through the door I climbed on board and placed the bags in the overhead storage with the skill of a heavy weight power lifter.  Mo was passing by outside so I tapped on the window to let her know where I was.  Settling down in our seats amazingly we still had fifteen minutes before the train was due to leave.

We where now speeding south towards Dijon at almost 300 kph (180 mph) on this TGV whilst I was enjoying a meal of beef and vegetables in my wide comfortable seat.  The sun was setting and the rest of the journey would take place in the dark with brief stops at the scheduled stations of Dijon, Dole, Mouchard, Frasne and Vallobe before reaching our destination of Laussane on the shores of Lake Geneva.  After leaving Dijon the trains overall speed lowered to negotiate the twisting track that meanders through the hills on the border between France and Switzerland.  The train arrived in Lausanne and we had to wait for our connection to Vevey, a fifteen minute trip along the side of Lake Geneva.  It was 20:40 CET when we entered the Hotel Astra, a thirty second walk from Vevey station.  It had been a long day’s travel but I didn't feel at all tired.  I guess that first class does help you arrive refreshed

30/12/2011 - Visit to Chateaux Chillon.

It was a cold damp morning with the rain falling as we entered the central courtyard of Chateaux Chillon to wait for the local guide to arrive to take us on a tour of the building.  The chateaux was built on a small island close to the shore at the eastern end of Lake Geneva, [Lake Léman in the commune of Veytaux] a strategic position looking down the valley towards the north of Italy, an ideal position for collecting taxes from the merchants transporting their goods through the area.  The oldest parts of the chateaux date back to the 12th Century and were home to the Counts of Savoy.  During the 13th Century it was expanded by Pietro II.  The tour through the chateaux was a fascinating mix of grand halls, bedrooms, courtyards, cellars and dungeons.  Many of the rooms where laid out with historic artefacts from the Savoy and Bernese periods with an interesting room, the Camera Domini, which was occupied the Duke of Savoy and is decorated with many murals depicting animals from his travels during the crusades.  The chateaux became well known in the 19th Century when Lord Byron wrote his poem, 'The Prisoner Of Chillon' in 1816 about François de Bonivard, a Genevois monk and politician who was imprisoned for six years in 1530, his only companion the sound of the waves lapping against the outside walls whilst chained to a stone pillar, which Bryon later carved his name on.

I was feeling the cold in my toes so we decided to catch the next bus to Villeneuve and find a coffee shop, which seemed to be the plans of some of the other members of the group.  After enjoying a refreshing drink and warming up in the cafe Mo and I made our way back to the bus stop for the bus to Terrertets where the funicular ascend to the village of Glion nestled high above the town of Montreaux.  We entered the un-manned carriage and with typical Swiss efficiency the automatic doors closed and we started to climb up the steep hill side to the station above.  During our short journey the rain began to slowly change to light snow as the temperature dropped the higher we climbed.  At the top we departed the carriage and walked onto the station platform where the rack trains from Montreaux stop on their way up to Rochers-de-Naye, a little ski resort high up the mountain, but today all the trains where stopping at Caux due to the snow.  Instead of travelling on the railway we started to walk around the quiet village up the steep road lined with hotels, houses and looking in the window of the estate agent to see the expensive houses for sale in the area.  The falling snow was getting heavier so we headed back towards the station and went into the cafe for a drink.  Perched high above the railway it was a nice place to sit and watch the snow falling on the lake below.

We sat drinking our beer, chatting and taking in the view, whilst a group of track maintenance workers enjoyed a large fondue of strong smelling molten cheese and bread.  The snow was getting heavier outside so we had a second beer to pass the time until the snow stopped falling.  We left the cafe and rode the funicular down and jumped on the bus to take us to the Vevey funicular.  Again exactly on time the automated system controlled the carriage to the top of the very steep track high above the town of Vevey.  The snow was again falling so we went into the hotel next to the station and had a warm drink to ward off the cold outside.  The view outside was very dramatic with the lake below surrounded by the snow capped mountains shrouded with low lying snow filled clouds.

31/12/2011 - Vevey to Les Diablerets via Aigle

Everyone boarded the 10:34 CET train from Vevey for the short ride to Aigle for our connection to Les Diablerets in the heart of the mountains.  Twenty minutes later I was walking along the platform to board the reserved observation carriage to take us on our next stage of the journey.  The carriage, Number 431 'Chez Rose' consisted of three large u-shaped alcove sofas each with room for eight people facing the large side windows to give a great view of the scenery going by.  The Aigle-Sépey-Les Diablerets railway (ASD) was built at the turn of the 20th Century with the final section to Les Diablerets being completed in 1914.

Sitting looking out through the large observation window the train meandered around the contours of the mountain side amongst the tall snow covered pine trees that line the track.  The electric train powered its way up the steep track with ease through the many cuttings and tunnels to Les Planches where it crossed the metal viaduct over the river and continued on to Le Sépey.  The train had stopped in the station and the friendly driver came walking through our carriage, saying Bonjour to everyone before sitting in the driver’s compartment at this end.  The line at Le Sépey is a dead end and our journey would continue by heading back the way we came over the viaduct to Les Planches where the driver left his compartment and walked along the line to manually change the points for the line to Les Diablerets.  The journey continued with spectacular views along the valley even though the weather outside was cold wet and miserable.

It was raining when we arrived and from the station it was a short walk along the slushy street to the hotel restaurant where we would be having lunch.  Sitting at long rows of back to back tables we were presented with lots of baskets of bread and three small candle heated stoves per table ready for the fondue bowls to be placed on.  The bowls arrived soon after filled with hot bubbling molten strong smelling cheese and with the long pronged fork I dipped in a piece of bread, twirling it around to cover it completely in the gooey liquid, blew on it and popped it in my mouth.  The strong taste was surprisingly good so I tried another, followed by another until I had eaten quite a lot and needed a drink from my large glass of lager.  The strong taste was not to Mo's liking and so she stuck to just eating the tasty bread instead which meant more cheese for me.

Even though the rain was still falling and with all that cheese settling on my stomach I was looking forward to a good walk with a guided tour of the village to work some of it off.  From the restaurant we walked down to the centre of the village and across the deep snow to have a look at the old school building before entering the church of St. Bernard, quite apt for a Swiss ski village.  Once inside we were confronted with a large triangular window with stain glass inserts looking out onto the ski slopes beyond.  Leaving the church we made our way back along the main street and turned to continue up into the snow covered countryside.  Our guide gave short talks about the fragile eco system of the mountains, trees fauna and flora stating that the local temperatures had risen recently which was affecting the amount of snow fall which in turn was threatening the tourism in the area.  She was very informative and put across the information with ease.  Our final destination was the small chapel with English connections.  We climbed the stairs and walked inside to be greeted with music from the organist practising.  She continued whilst we sat in the rows of pews drinking warm sweet tea provided by the guide.  When she paused everyone gave her a round of applause.  Our guide explained that when the Victorians tourist came to the village they had this chapel constructed so that they could visit on a Sunday during their holidays.  With our tour of the village over we made our way back towards the station and waited for the train for the return journey to Aigle.  Peter had said the train was due at 16:10 CET but no train came.  I could hear grumblings amongst our group with comments like 'This is a first, a late train in Switzerland.'  We stood around with some pacing up and down the platform until the automatic gates started to lower indicating the train’s arrival.  It was about five minutes late and promptly departed once everyone was aboard.

Having enjoyed a champagne reception and our fantastic New Years Eve three course meal in the hotel it was time to go out and watch the fireworks display to celebrate the coming New year.  We walked towards the market square which is situated close to the lake side and joined the massing crowd gathering to witness the display.  We entered the square and choose to stand on the stairs of the mock roman coliseum covered market and bumped into Julian and Debbie.  In the distance two brightly lit paddle steamers slowly made their way along the shoreline towards the square each filled with revellers aboard enjoying their New Year’s party.  By now Keith and Lorraine had found us in the crowd and we all wished each other a Happy New Year at the stroke of midnight which was soon followed by an amazing display of fireworks lighting up the night’s sky.  The mesmerised crowd whooooed and arrrrhed at each bang and colourful explosion.  This continued for thirty five minutes with each set getting better and better right up to the finale which everyone clapped and cheered with appreciation.

01/01/2012 - Vevey to Les Pléiades

It was a nice easy start to New Years Day following the previous night’s festivities, with a late breakfast and trip to Les Pléiades on the mountain rack railway from Blonay.  We left the hotel at 11:15 CET and walked across the road to Vevey station and boarded the train that was waiting, a modern narrow gauge tram with two carriages with a driver’s cabin at each end.  We boarded and Mo asked what direction it was going to go, to which I pointed and she chose a seat in the direction I indicated.  We sat and waited and predictably the train departed on time and was soon climbing up the steep track that meandered back and forth across the face of the mountain.  The narrow track was threaded amongst the many houses perched on the mountain and the train made a number of scheduled stops along the way until it terminated at Blonay.  Peter had explained that we would have to transfer to the rack railway for the rest of the journey.  The train left Blonay climbing the steep track up the side of the mountain given wonderful views of the snow lined valley with little house precariously perched on the mountain side.  It was a clear sunny day with blue skies adding to the beauty of the stunning views all around as the train pulled into the station at the top of the ascent.

A short walk from the station is a large cafe with a large viewing platform looking out over the mountain valley and on to Lake Geneva in the distance.  We looked out at the view of the low lying cloud in the valley with glimpses of the water surface through the breaks in the clouds.  There was a clear sky above and it was quite warm for the time of year.  Snow lay all around the mountain peaks give some lucky people an opportunity for some New years day skiing.  We all decided to walk through the knee high snow and gather around the cross monument for a large group photograph near the top of the main ski slope.  With photos taken the group dispersed and Mo and I headed for the cafe to enjoy a lager and a bowl of pomme frites with ketchup.  We sat chatting to Joyce and Robert about the trip so far, other railway journeys they had enjoyed and their home town of Wakefield.  Finishing off the last of the fries it was time to walk back to the station to catch the 15:30 CET train back to Blonay.

The train entered the station at Vevey on its return from Blonay and Mo had suggested we went to Montreaux whilst we had a few hours of free time before our evening meal in the hotel.  Even on New Year’s day the buses were running every ten minutes so we didn't have long to wait for one to arrive.  Ten minutes later we got off at the Montreaux Marche stop and walked down towards the lake passing the casino with its bright flashing lights enticing people in to gamble their money away.  We walked along the promenade amongst the crowds of people who had also decided to have a walk by the lake.  We strolled along taking in the view of the sun slowly descending in the early evening sky leaving crimson reflections on the lake, the snow capped mountains and the bronze statue in memory of Freddie Mercury lead singer of Queen.  He was a resident of Montreaux in the last years of his life and recorded his last song, These are the days of our lives, here before he died in 1991.  He came to live in Montreaux because he found it such a serene place and I can understand what he was saying as I witnessed the beautiful sunset at the end of this first day of the New Year.

02/01/2012 - Mont Blanc Via Martigny and Vallorcine

There was a half hour wait in Martigny for our next train that would take us over the mountains to Chamonix in France.  I walked along the platform looking at the freight loco in the sidings as the regular commuter trains passed through the station on their way to Brig or back towards Vevey.  The Mont Blanc Express as it is known runs from Martigny over the Trient Gorge to Vallorcine just over the French border where a change of trains is required for the journey to Chamonix.  This is not due to different track gauges but the fact that on the Swiss section the train is powered by an overhead electrical supply via a pantograph, whereas the French section is via a third rail alongside the track.  We boarded the train which promptly departed at 10:40 CET running alongside the main line until it engaged with the rack and started the steep climb up the side of the mountain giving a tremendous view of the flat lands between the two ranges of mountains.  The train travels through snow covered pine forests connecting the attractive yet secluded villages nestled amid the high peaks and crashing waterfalls of this hostile but beautiful landscape.

Upon our arrival in Chamonix we were greeted with heavy rain making it quite treacherous under foot with the water sitting on top of the frozen snow.  We had a little time to explore and so we made our way down the street dodging under the canopies looking in the various windows of the clothes and gift shops.  The rain was getting heavier and we both decide to head for the station building across the footbridge to wait for the train to arrive for the trip to Montenvers and the Mer de Glace.  Outside the station preserved on an inclined plinth is a 0-4-2 rack tank engine No.6 Brown Type 3 similar to those that still run on the Brienz-Rothorn Bahn in Switzerland and Snowdon in Wales.   The line has been electrified since 1955 so the nostalgia of steam as long gone.  As we waited Peter presented everyone with their ticket so that we could pass through the barrier that leads out onto the platform.  We boarded the electric powered rail car with its rows of wooden slatted seats and regrettably condensation covered windows.  I wiped the window to see out but within seconds it was thick with condensation and I was unable to see anything outside.  The train left the station trundling its way along the narrow track taking about twenty minutes climbing about 900 metres (2950ft) to reach the end of the line with blizzard like conditions and a complete white out.  Peter pointed the way along a narrow path towards the hotel perched on the mountain side about 200 metres away.  It was very cold and the snow was blowing directly into my face as we trudged along to the hotel.

The large log fire radiated warmth that drove away the cold of outside whilst we sat at the long wooden dining tables enjoying a lunch of prosciutto ham, green salad, potato gratin and the obligatory bowls of crusty bread.  Table wine was provided but Mo and I ordered a large glass of cold refreshing lager each instead.  With the worsening weather outside and word coming through that the 15:30 CET train down would be the last of the day the waiters and waitresses were quickly tidying up, putting out the fire, shutting the blinds and closing the restaurant down so they too could catch the last train down the mountain.  Within minutes of finishing our meal we were ushered out the door into the cold for the short walk back to the station.  The spectacular views of the valley and glacier could only be imagined as the thick snow fell all around obscuring any view we hoped to see on the return journey back to Chamonix.

03/01/2012 - Vevey to Gstaad

We purchased our tickets and boarding the 09:45 CET departure found a group of four seats so that Keith, Lorraine, Mo and I could sit together for the one hour twenty minute trip to Gstaad.  Today was a free day to do what we liked and so a trip on the Golden Pass Panoramic scenic route from Montreux was chosen.  The carriage we sat in had large side windows with angled quarter lights in the ceiling to give an excellent view of the passing scenery.  The train left promptly on time and was soon climbing the mountain side giving stunning views of Lake Geneva and the mountains beyond highlighted by the sunshine glistening on the snow covered peaks.  The line winds its way through terraced vineyards and around a Chateaux before entering the Jaman Tunnel, a 2400m long straight cutting between Les Avants and Les Cases. The train left the darkness of the tunnel to reveal a snow covered pine tree lined valley with high mountain peaks on each side of the Pays d’Enhaut region that the sun was just peeking over producing a strong contrasting shade and bright reflections on the huge windows.  The journey continued through Rossinière and Château-d’Oex onwards into the Saanenland region where the village names are now definitely in German. 

Gstaad is a ski resort for the rich and famous and somehow it was common knowledge that pop star Madonna was staying in the area this week with her family.  We strolled along the snow lined main street with its traditional Swiss styled wooden buildings looking in the windows of the many shops selling jewellery, watches, glittery dresses, sparkling shoes and fur coats but no price tags indicating if you need to ask you probably can’t afford, although I did spot one item, a small diamond encrusted bracelet with a price of 13,000 CHF, about £9,750.  We continued along the street under the railway bridge passing many hotels and restaurants with the sound of jingling bells from the horse drawn sleighs going by until we came across the Apple Pie Cafe and decided to go in, settling in around one of the tables and ordered four pieces of apple pie with tea from the waitress.  We sat chatting until he waitress brought over the order and we all tucked into the delicious pie served with thin white custard that complimented each other perfectly.  It was time to leave to catch the train and we were presented with a bill for 70 CHF or £52 which seems a lot for four pieces of pie and tea but it was really mouth watering and worth every penny.

The train was due to leave at 12:51 CET and we only had a few minutes to get back as we hurried down the street getting to the station with seconds to spare before it pulled into the platform.  We climbed on board and sat in a group of four seats on the opposite side of the carriage to which we sat on our outward journey.  Leaving Gstaad the train was soon passing the small airfield at Saanen with its rows of private planes parked near to the runway, an ideal way of going skiing for those with the money.  Using the piste map we had obtained in Gstaad I was pointing out the ski lifts to Lorraine who was keen to have some ski lessons when she got back home as we passed Rougemont with the skiers effortlessly gliding down the red and blue runs amongst the pine trees.  The train follows the course of the Saane River, through to Rossinière, flowing into the large reservoir of Lac du Vernex which is dammed at one end holding back millions of litres of fresh water.  The rhythmic rat-a-tat sound of the wheels on the track was in next to no time accompanied by the reverberation of rushing air with the train entering the long tunnel through the mountain which soon revealed the Mediterranean personality of Montreux and Lake Geneva below.

Mo and I left Keith and Lorraine to explore Montreux and jumped on the trolley bus heading back to Vevey getting off at the La Tour stop so we could walk along the side of lake.  We strolled by the marina full of small boats that were in hibernation through the off season continuing along in the warm winter sun of the afternoon.  In the distance we could now see the silhouette of the sculpture of the large fork rising out of the water, place there to promote the art gallery on the other side of the road.  In turn we both posed for photographs that gave the illusion of it standing on an outstretched hand or trying to push it over into the water.  We had fun setting up each shot and probably looking very silly to passersby.  Not far from the fork sculpture amongst the ornate flower beds is a bronze statue of silent film star Charlie Chaplin depicted wearing the familiar baggy trousers, tight jacket, large shoes and Derby hat of his most famous role, ‘The Tramp.’  Chaplin came to Vevey in 1952 after a brief trip to London for the premier of his film ‘Limelight’ and the U.S. Immigration and Naturalization Service revoked his re-entry permit because J, Edgar Hoover believed he had committed ‘un-American activities’ as a suspected communist.  He died in his sleep at his Vevey home on Christmas day 1977 at the age of eighty eight and is buried in the Corsier-Sur-Vevey Cemetery.  Leaving Chaplin to gaze across the lake we completed our walk with a cold beer in the Hostellerie du Café de Genève which looks out onto the main market square of Vevey.

04/01/2012 - Vevey to London

Our first train of the day on the homeward bound journey was not until 11:20 CET so we had a little time to do some last minute shopping in the mall across the road from the hotel.  Mo and I wandered around the three floors of shops looking for nothing in particular until I noticed a large store that had a sport section selling replica football shirts. Being an avid football fan I try to find a football shirt of the countries I have visited and with a quick search I soon found a Swiss International shirt and decided to add it to the collection I have picked up travelling around the world.  With my purchase in hand Mo and I walked back to the station to catch the train to Lausanne.

I could feel the train accelerating to its top speed now that it had joined the main straight artery of the TGV line to Paris.  From Lausanne to Dijon the train in comparison had been crawling along the meandering line through the scenic countryside of the French/Swiss border.  After enjoying another first class lunch we sat back watching the scenery leisurely pass by until the train was able to sprint along the final leg into the Gare Du Lyon.  Everyone left the train and walked in precession dragging their luggage through the busy station to the awaiting coach outside for the transfer to the Gare du Nord.  Compared to the transfer across Paris at the start of the holiday this one was a breeze and we were soon collecting our bags and walking into the station to clear passport control with plenty of time to spare.  The final leg of the journey back to London was interrupted by a short stop just outside Paris due to a problem further up the line which made the train almost half an hour late into St. Pancras.  This wasn’t a problem for us but other members of the group had train connections to get them home so they were busily getting their luggage together so they could jump straight off the train as soon as it pulled into the platform.  Mo and I were the last to leave our carriage and we walked along the platform meeting up with Keith and Lorraine who had plenty of time to catch their train home.  We said our goodbyes and walked outside to find a taxi to our overnight hotel.