Black Blood Python

Common name(s)

Blood Python, Red Blood Python, Sumatran Blood Python, Malaysian Blood Python, Borneo Blood Python, Striped Blood Python, Albino Blood Python.

Coloration

Sumatran short-tailed python (curtus curtus): The smallest of the bloods, this one is commonly referred to as the "Black" Blood Python, for it typically has the darkest colors of all the bloods. Blacks have orange eyes with the blood trademark stripe beneath the eye which goes down the face toward the jaw (most bloods have this stripe on the eye). Black's colors will generally become darker with age, predominantly black with dark grays in adulthood.

Appearance/Size

Blood pythons are heavy bodied snakes. What makes this snake so unique and unlike other snakes is that its girth is huge relative to its length. A thick, muscular body makes constricting simple for this massive, yet relatively short snake. Its head is small, broad and long compared to its body size. Adults typically get their adult colors at two to three years of age.

Experience

This snake is for the intermediate keeper. These tropical snakes have very strict temperature and humidity requirements as well as a variety of temperaments. Without proper attention to their needs, this snake can take a bad turn quickly as a youngster. The most challenging part of owning this snake is, unmistakably, bringing it up from a young age. Besides needing exact humidity and temperatures, feeding can also be a challenge. The acclimation period can be most stressful because these snakes can make trying to feed a finicky ball python seem like a sunny walk in the park. Bloods get easily stressed and may react by not feeding regularly or having bad sheds. Keeping an observant and watchful eye on their behavior is necessary for identifying problems, as well as preventing them. Bloods are typically not as active as a common boa, for example, and an experienced keeper is the best defense. A common boa may give some noticeable signs that they may be ill by their activity level. The lethargic blood will give fewer signs. A few years of keeping other types of snakes would be ideal preparation before taking on a blood python.

Cage/Housing Setup

Young bloods do very well in an appropriately sized cage. It's very important to create a safe and secure environment for a young blood because they are very shy and sensitive, and they need to feel that confining security. A 20 gallon cage works well to start them out or approximately 10 inches wide by 15 inches long by 5 inches tall. (If you have very young blood, or newly hatched, it may be necessary to use an even smaller container for feeding.) Putting a blood in a cage that's too big for them might be convenient for the owner, but not the blood. (I have yet to cross a blood that is claustrophobic.) For adults, a cage which is long enough for at least half of the snake's length is adequate. Ideally, a cage which is the length the same as the snake's length will be even better. The width needs to be wide enough to allow the blood to turn around with ease. It's been said that a cage which allows the blood to extend to its full length helps diminish the onset of respiratory problems. Depending on the type of blood, 4ft to 6ft long by 2ft. to 4ft. wide by 10 to 20 inches tall enclosures work very well for adults. (Keep in mind, if you do use a lamp as a heat source, the height of the cage will be a factor for the actual amount of heat the blood receives. Once again, it's very important to have a good temperature gun handy for any reptile you own.) Plastic sweater box containers (like Rubbermaid) retain humidity very well. They are also user friendly for making holes for the necessary amount of ventilation. An aquarium with a screen mesh top provides good ventilation, but obviously will not retain humidity quite as well. Pegboard works well, too. Fiberglass, wood (smooth wood, not porous; remember, you'll have to clean it!), hardboard, PVC, pre-fabricated, plexi-glass or any other heavy duty non-corrosive material will work for an adult blood. No matter what type of material the cage is made out of, make absolutely certain it is escape proof! Bloods are 100% pure muscle. Housing multiple bloods is not recommended, but if you do decide to (and they get along), be sure to multiply the cage space by one quarter.

Ventilation

Since bloods need high humidity, it is important to have a well ventilated cage. Screen (metal wire) mesh tops work well, and pose no immediate concerns to basking lamps which sit on top to be used as an additional heat source (although lamps are not needed for bloods).

Substrate

Newspaper allows for easy clean up and it minimizes parasite outbreaks. Thought not visually appealing, it is by far the most easily maintained. As a drawback, it does not hold humidity well. Orchid bark chips and coconut chips will retain more humidity and be more visually appealing than newspaper, but any type of shavings will be more to clean, and give parasites places to thrive. Cypress mulch, paper towels, Astroturf, aspen bedding and paper bags also work as substrates. Do not use sand, dirt, gravel, sawdust or cedar chips. It's highly recommended not to saturate the substrate with water, but misting it once to a couple of times a day is acceptable. A wet substrate will mostly likely lead to skin ailments. Mist the separate hide filled with moss for humidity. If the cage is cleaned every time there is a dropping, you'll minimize parasite infestations and keep a healthier blood. Make a habit to change the water at least every time you change the substrate (at least once a week). Ideally, however, you should change the water every single day. If you use shavings for your substrate, it's recommended to feed your reptile on a different surface to avoid ingestion. Additionally, feeding any snake in another location will help it distinguish between handling time and feeding time.

Hides / Water dishes

Bloods love to hide out in the dark. It is absolutely essential to provide a tight, snug hide for any sized blood, as well as a water bowl. Clay or plastic flower pot bottoms with a cut out in the front and or a hole at the top are ideal for both hides and water dishes. It's usually a good idea to locate the covered hide near the heat source. If a blood wants to cool down, it can always get out, but you don't want to make it choose between the hide and heat. (Personally, I've actually put the covered hide over half or a third of the heating pad, knowing that there is enough room in the hide for the snake to sit on top of or completely avoid the heat source.) As mentioned already, misting an open top plant base filled with sphagnum moss or cypress mulch will provide concentrated humidity and security (youngsters will more than likely burrow underneath the moss). (See Humidity.) The same sized plant base works well for the humidity hide as well as the covered (upside down) hide. The water dish can be the same size or bigger, as long as the entire snake can fit in it for soaking. Disinfect the water bowl weekly, and place it in the cage near the heat source to provide additional humidity. If you desire, offer a second covered hide located on the cooler end of the cage as well. The more stress you can eliminate for the blood to experience, the fewer headaches you'll experience.

Temperatures / Heating & Lighting

Blood Pythons are not as forgiving to inaccurate temperatures or humidity as a Common Boa, for example. Day time temperatures should range from 80° to 92° (All temperatures are listed at Fahrenheit.). The basking spot should reach 92° at maximum, with a temperature gradient to approximately 80° at the opposite end of the vivarium. If an under the tank heater (uth) is used, then the basking spot should cover one third of the vivarium. Thermostats connected to a heating pad are helpful, but rarely accurate. A temperature gun (available for purchase at Radio Shack) is a cost effective, ideal tool for monitoring cage temperatures. Use a temp gun to make sure the heat source (if using a lamp) is not too hot, as they can cause burns as well. Monitor lamp height and wattage. Temps guns are absolutely essential for this. If you have a blood that only stays in its hide in increments because the lamp is directly over the hide, you may want to consider changing the wattage. Lamps at or over 100 watts should be monitored, as used sparingly, depending on cage height. Thermometers located at both ends of the cage are a must. It is essential to have a temperature gradient for most snakes. The temperature ranges will change with different snakes, but a gradient will allow the snake to thermo-regulate itself. An under the tank heater can be used in conjunction with a light for heating, if necessary, for the higher temperatures. Incandescent lights are not recommended unless absolutely necessary for heating because they reduce humidity levels more than other types of lighting. Ceramic heating elements (attached to a thermostat for regulation) (CHE) are great supplements for heat. Just as it is important to get day time temperatures correct, so is it important to make certain night time temps are correct. Night time temperatures may drop between 75° to 80°. Some studies have shown that snakes that receive too much constant temperature can suffer from heat stress, leading to a number of problems. Bloods do not need light, but a good 12 hour photoperiod with a light source is, in many cases, the most practical solution. Most of the time, 12 hours on and 12 hours off is sufficient.

Under the cage heating pads and heat tape are a good supplemental heat forms, and are sometimes used as the primary source of heat. The use of a thermostat attached to the UTH is recommended, to ensure that temperatures are accurate and over-heating does not occur.

The use of hot rocks or heat rocks is not recommended, as these have been found to be dangerous and can cause fatal burns. The only recommendation for the use of a hot rock is if the power supply is cut, making the rock a simple decoration!

Humidity

It is highly recommended to give a blood a separate hide for humidity other than its covered hide. Flower pot bottoms made of plastic, clay or deli dishes work well. If you do use a deli dish, make sure there are no sharp edges. Fill the dish or flower pot bottom with moist moss. Sphagnum moss is ideal, but not the only type you can use. Cypress mulch works well also. Misting the dish filled with moss every couple of days will ensure a nice, humid hide. The hide needs to be moist but not wet, as an over saturated box may lead to skin irritations like "belly rot".

(Note: A big misconception regarding humidity is that not enough humidity will cause problems. Although this is true in some cases, too-high humidity can equally cause problems such as respiratory infections. If you hear wheezing from your snake, cage temperature and humidity are a good place to start tracing your steps back to probable causes, though as with any infection or health problem you should be cautious and seek veterinary advice/treatment.)

Humidity gauges located at each end of the cage are ideal, but at least one is required. In general, you may also consider mounting a thermometer/humidity gauge for the room, if you have several reptiles with similar needs in the same room. If it drops too low, simply fill a humidifier with water and run until the room humidity gets to the optimal range. 65% to 70% humidity is ideal for bloods, while the humidity should be increased to 85% to 90% when in shed. Water bowls inside the blood's cage will add to the humidity, and an additional water bowl may be placed at the warm end of the enclosure to increase humidity further if required. Usually, correct temperatures and water bowl evaporation will ensure correct humidity, although misting the enclosure may be necessary.

Feeding

For young bloods, feed a mouse or rat pup sized to the girth of the python at its widest point. Rats are better because they are bigger when underdeveloped versus mice, while less harmful. Also, rats are healthier because they have higher protein than mice. Ideally, you'll want to have you bloods on a diet of frozen/thawed rats, for fresh thawed rodents are safer than live, and they are far less likely to have parasites. Sometimes bloods are difficult to begin feeding, so if you have to get them started on mice, it is perfectly alright as some snakes have a preference. If you're not sure on the size of the rodent, get the next bigger size rodent. Your blood can handle it, trust me. If you have to start on live prey, try switching to thawed rodents after the first three meals or so. Eventually, you will definitely want to make this change, but the sooner the snake gets used to thawed the better. The longer you feed them live, the harder it will be to make the transition to thawed rodents. But it is highly important (imperative, in fact) that you make certain that the freshly killed rodent is NOT LEFT UNATTENDED; especially if you're feeding jumbo sized rats, as they can inflict serious damage, even death, to your snake. I always make sure that my live purchased rodents are dead before feeding them to my finicky eaters. If you have a newly acquired blood, feed it before the first shed, if at all possible. Bloods are ambush predators, meaning that they lie-in-wait for their prey to come to them.

Troubleshooting Feeding

Most often, feeding troubles occur with young bloods. They can be very reluctant to start feeding. There are several things to double check when assessing the situation: The blood may not feel secure in its hide spots, it could be in shed, the food may not be fresh or warm enough, it may not like eating in the light, or dark, or more. Don't handle the snake while in the same time period trying to feed it. Try feeding different size rodents, mice or rats. Try putting the prey in the hide, or at the opening of the hide. Make sure the cage temperature is warm enough. Eliminate the variables or possible stresses and you'll most likely get a good feeding response.

Force feeding is an absolute last resort. Get an experienced keeper for this, if necessary. Veterinarians can prescribe feeding stimulants, but remember drugs cure the symptom, not necessarily the problem. It's best to try everything you can in eliminating stress before causing the most amount of stress by either sticking the blood with a syringe or by force feeding it. Some keepers say that feeding a blood small meal regularly is not healthy and can stunt growth. Others say the opposite. I've found no real evidence either way. However, I can tell you that every snake I've ever had that's been an adult has thrived eating an appropriately sized meal once every two and a half to four weeks (depending on the season; two to three in the hot months and three to four in the cold months).

Temperaments & Misconceptions

Captive bred bloods generally have docile and timid dispositions. They have been attributed by some with an aggressive and nippy attitude. Although they can be a bit defensive and shy as babies, with regular handling after the acclimation period of a newly acquired blood, most bloods will grow into a mature and calm demeanor.

Bloods are typically temperamental until a year or two old, although there are some exceptionally calm youngsters. At any rate, almost all bloods will calm down with age. Sumatran bloods have the widest temperamental variety. Some are very calm and docile, while others are high-strung and quick to defend.

Skin Shedding

Most snakes shed every one to three months. If you keep an observant eye, you'll be able to spot cloudy eyes on your blood. Approximately five days after the fist sign of cloudy eyes, the snake should shed its skin. (Note; many snakes won't accept food when shedding draws near.) For bloods, spotting cloudy eyes, or even anticipating a shed means it's time to raise the humidity. 70% to 85% humidity is ideal for a good, one piece shed. As with many (if not all) snakes, if a blood sheds in pieces, then there was not enough humidity prior to shedding. Be sure to unravel the old skin when the shed it completed. It is important to make certain that the snake has shed its eye caps, as well as the rest of its facial skin, and the tip of the tail. An unshed eye cap can lead to infection. And an unshed tail can result in the tissues of the tail dying, and the tail dropping off. Do not attempt to remove the unshed eye cap. Soak the python in a room temperature water bowl for 30 minutes to an hour. Chances are it will fall off. In most cases, shed skin will come off with the eye caps, but it is always important to stay in the habit of checking. If an eye cap still doesn't come off, seek assistance from an expert keeper before taking action. If you ask someone at a specialty reptile shop, ask a breeder of snakes.)

Soaking

Soaking is highly underrated. Soaking a blood in room temperature (75-80 degrees) water for 30 minutes to one hour (you may want to add warm water as time passes) is ideal for healthy skin. By doing this, you will ensure successful sheds, reduce or eliminate skin irritations and infestations, and keep the snake hydrated.