Year 2003

It's now or never. I decided to get my second Worldloppet medal and to complete full circle of Worldloppet races. To have it safe, I entered 4 races instead of required 3.

I arrived in Geneva one week before the race. There I spent two days visiting many memorable places like United Nations, Red Cross headquarter, John's Calvin church, Russian mini suburb and others. Then I moved to Les Mosses, where I was hosted by Jan in his mountain chalet or maybe fortress.

I skied few days on ski trails just few metres from Jan's home. Then we drove across the border, to France.

Transjurasienne.

There was lots of great food at the Masters reception. And a warning that it will be cold and windy day.

And it was. Our bus arrived very early and for long time we waited in some shelter for the start. The race was OK until we reached Les Rousses, then we were hit by strong opposite wind and snowfall. I felt my energy melting, every step was more and more painful. At the second last checkpoint, I was just 20 minutes under the cut off time. I saw many skiers stopping there. I realised, that I had no chance to make to the next checkpoint within the time limit, but I had no heart to give up. I continued in pain with many stops. The picture on the left, shows exactly how I felt. Eventually and with some relief, I saw barriers on the ski trail. I was stopped and shown way to the waiting bus. My only consolation was, that it filled very quickly with many skiers from Scandinavian countries. Some time after the race, I got official words of consolation from the organizers and information, that the course was some 10 km longer than official 76 km. So it seems, I skied the distance for which I paid. Thank you :)) But now I must not miss any of remaining races!

In the hotel, I made another bad discovery. I lost somewhere my credit cards. They were my only source of money, so I had some extra trouble on my back.

Vasaloppet.

Before going too far, I had to sort out my credit cards, it has nothing to do with skiing, but if you are interested, it is described HERE.

I stayed two days in Stockholm with my friends who moved there from Melbourne. I was very impressed by Vasa ship museum. On one hand, it was probably the greatest shipbuilding disaster, on the other - most successful exhibition. Other places I visited in Stockholm were Nobel Museum - very average and the royal palace. I watched the change of guard there and it was quite sad, one soldier fainted. I always considered military parades as most stupid ceremonies, here I felt real pain.

In Mora, I had next disappointment. I had accommodation arranged by the local travel agency. When I was in Les Mosses, they sent me a fax informing about change of address of my accommodation. I had no chance to check where it was. It appeared to be some 4 km outside the town, with no public transport. I could have understood if they put there someone who came to Mora with his own car. But to do it to overseas skier? Not very nice.

So I walked everyday to Mora ski trails and returned home on foot. It was not a great trouble for someone, who was going to ski 90 km. The main inconvenience was, that after coming home, I had no will to go back to town.

My host was very kind to get up at 3 am, cook me a breakfast and drive me to the start.This year I participated in Open Spar. I found it a very good idea. Start at your own time, no crowds nor bottlenecks. Weather was great, the event.. so easy that almost uneventful. After the race I had massage, some meal and.. a long walk home. Getting a taxi meant at least 2 hours wait. I did not want to bother my host. So I walked. It inspired me year later to write this STORY.

Engandin.

After Vasaloppet, I spent some time in Poland. On Ash Wednesday, I flew to Zurich. At the Warsaw airport, I saw in TV an Ash Wednesday Mass. Archbishop sprinkled ashes on heads of faithful. Two hours later I landed in Zurich. At the train station, there was a great food festival. Crowds of laughing people, heaps of food. It reminded me of the Gospel reading from last Sunday.

Pharisees asked Jesus - why your disciples do not observe fast? Jesus answerer: while they are with me, they do not have to fast. They will fast when I will go away. I could not escape a reflection that Swiss people must be closer to God in their joy. And definitely a train ride to Pontresina was a heavenly experience.

I stayed in the same Youth Hostel as 7 years ago. Again beautiful weather, great skiing and the race which reminded me a visit to Disneyland. Too easy and too colorful to be true. But the result was disappointing, 3hrs 13 mins. Almost half an hour slower than 7 years ago.

Next day, I took train to Davos. It was the place of my many memories although I've never been there before. So NOW I could confront memories with reality.

I left Davos in rain. It looked as time of fasting came to Switzerland, for me - time to move closer to heaven.

Birkebeiner.

I flew from Zurich to Oslo where I stayed in Haraldsheim. I had strange company in my room. A Norwegian guy, who brought everyday lots of aggressive Palestinian propaganda and ground his teeth noisily during sleep.

Each morning, around 4 am, alarm clock rang and he and a guy from Thailand, got up and went to work. Only then I had a good strong sleep, but I had to watch not to miss breakfast, which was worth getting up on time. Herrings in delicious sauces and variety of cheeses. Yum.

I spent one day wandering around Oslo. Two main points of interest were - Frammuseet, place where old polar ship Fram found its rest, and Vigeland sculptures in Frogner Park. I touched walls of Fram with some emotion, it was an object from which my dreams about snow adventures started.

Next day I skied in Holmenkollen, probably the most notable venue in skiing history. Wikipedia entry concentrates on ski jump, but it is also place of many cross country events.

And then to Lillehammer, another famous skiing location. There I met my Canadian friends, Robert and Saul (see Hoppet 2002) and we drove up to Sjusjoen - paradise for skiers.

We rented a cabin there, Saul volunteered to be our cook, so our only duty was to wash dishes, and ski, ski, ski!

Couple days later, Jan joined us. What a company!

We skied around many ski trails and made also one longer ski tour...

Evenings we spent resting around the fireplace and waxing skis for another beautiful day.

One day, we skied down to the Olympic stadium. It was some disappointment. I remembered it in Olympic glory, packed by quarter million people waving Norwegian flags - see HERE. But this day is was small, empty, asking for some maintenance.

Race day! Very early alarm and long bus drive to Rena. There we checked out backpacks if we carried mandatory 3.5 kg load, memory of infant king Hakon some 800 years ago. Start!

Being in 60+ age group, I had a privilege of early start (just contrary to all other races). How nice! There were two tracks left for younger and faster skiers. It did not frustrate me at all. I like to watch good skiers. That they passed me? So what? I could clearly see they were better than me.

Sunny, warm day. Whole families picnicked on both sides of the course, like on the beach. There was one, old fashioned guy, in high rubber boots. He stood in the middle of ski trails with a big bag of sugar. He dug out a spoon full of sugar and pointed it to the mouth of passing skiers. Some slowed down, opened mouth and swallowed a sweet load. The guy hit the spoon into his rubber boot to shake off the rest of sugar and dug again.

Nice weather was not so good for my waxes. I had to change waxes twice before I got to familiar area of Sjusjoen. And then exciting downhill to Lillehammer. Then finish at Olympic stadium, this time it looked to me as a place of glory again.

And some time later, at home. I received my second Worldloppet master medal and diploma.

Hoppet .

Winter in Australia started nicely. We missed so much our annual Hotham to Falls race, that we decided to make our own. This year it was only a trial. Peter and Ania took bus from Bright to Mt Hotham, I drove to Falls to pick them up. After few hours they arrived happy like winners. We decided to continue it in bigger company next year.

On Hoppet day, terrible blizzard came. Fog, snow with rain, very strong wind. The main race was shortened to just 3 loops in Sun Valley. It was a struggle.

This year only Ania accompanied me. It looked that we might cross the finish line together, but some brute parted us.