Exhaust Manifolds

I'm told you can reuse the VG30 exhaust manifolds, IF you drlll out the mounting holes (sized for 8mm) to fit the studs (10mm) on the VG33 engine, so that's what we'll do! (The VG33 manifolds have a catalytic converter that bolts directly to them, this probably wouldn't fit well in the WD21 87-95 engine compartment, so we won't even think about using those)

• 1. I took the VG30 heads off the engine while it was still sitting in the truck (remember, I was gonna see what kinda detonation damage was done to the heads and pistons first, and after seeing how bad it was, that's what led to the decision to go with a "new" engine in!) Here's the driver's side exhaust manifold, heat shield, and one of the studs. You can see that the center runner's bolt holes look like they will clear the VG33's 10mm studs already, so maybe only the outer runners need to have the holes enlarged--and there doesn't look like much cast iron will be left after, so be careful! Oh, and you'll also note these studs don't have the luxury of a torx pattern on the end, so most of them will probably turn on you (or break) as you loosen the nut.

• 1. I need to take the passenger'is side manifold off...

• 1. On to the VG33...again, the heat shields hafta come off, so we can get to the manifold mounting nuts. EGR tube will hafta be disconnected from EGR valve so that the driver's side heat shield can slip over it. You know the drill, LOTS of PB Blaster and leverage!

• 1. Ah, time for that piece of cake, right?

• 1. Sort of...most of the nuts/studs were loose, and on most of them, the stud wanted to come out with the nut...I tried to prevent that as much as possible (will hafta vise/vise-grip the problem ones, or buy new ones) using this external torx socket (E10) and wrench combo. (I didn't think to do this when I took the driver's side manifold out, but it looks like only one stud came out!)

• 1. Driver's side off. (Then, with gasket and studs removed for cleaning)

• 1. To get to that front nut (with a wrench) on the passenger's side, this alternator mounting bracket has to come off. (I did this the hard way, by trying to keep as much attached (idler pulley and radiator hose/tube) to the bracket as possible...plus, the stud ended up coming out, anyway).

• 1. Oh, and the passenger's side motor mount was in my way of getting the middle runner's bottom nut off (you can see that the bolt pattern for the manifolds is not a mirror image, wonder why?), so I decided to remove the motor mount. (Is it possible to take the manifold off without removing the mount? In-engine?) I hope I never have to answer this question!

• 1. Passenger's side off; studs and gasket removed so I can clean the mating surface!

• 1. Parts for sale!

• 1. I'm gonna clean the threads up and I will hafta get new studs/nuts for the two of the bottom ones on the PS (you can see one is NOT a torx head and the other the nut was stuck--I could try the vise grips, but might as well just get a new one). Didn't know it, but there are different sized studs! I'll check to find out the proper arrangement! Oh, and you can see how you need the FACTORY VG33 manifold gasket 'cause it has the "universal" (4-hole) mounting pattern for the rear runner (not sure if the parts stores have the universal one, all their online pics show it as only ONE set of mounting holes for the rear runner).

• 1. The holes on the back runners/flanges have to be drilled out to fit the 10mm studs, I used a step drill bit to start with, then finished up with a regular 1/2" drill bit. This is an excellent job for a drill press, but I don't have one, and my power drill walks on me, so the holes aren't perfect, but they do clear the studs!

• 1. This hole on the driver's side rear flange needs to be milled/filed down so the nut will sit flush. I used a dremel tool. And I used some high-temp engine paint on the machined surface (it dried with no runs).

• 1. Got these "new" exhaust manifold heat shields off a '95 (had a good frame!) from the junkyard. Are they better than the ones I had? In some places.

• 1. Used simple green, steel wire brush, shop towels and scraper (when necessary) to clean the gasket mating surfaces.