Saturday, May 5, 2012
I got up pretty early and retrieved the bear bag. It was hanging untouched right wear I left it. I brought it down to the campfire area benches and laid out my breakfast materials. I brought out the Kelly Kettle from the tent and got it going. The flames shot up through the chimney of the kettle and in no time there was boiling water. I was used to this happening because now I have a policy that I have everything ready before I light the match. The Hot Chocolate and Oatmeal are already in the cup ready for the hot water. So, I had my usual choco-oato breakfast, as I call it.
I packed up and was on my way fairly early, I’d say around 7 am. It was a great little campsite for the night. The river was very calm and glasslike, that’s unusual for a river in these parts. I’m so used to seeing rivers with lots of cascades, rapids and waterfalls.
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I started hiking southwest on the SHT along the river. Pretty soon the trail crosses a snowmobile trail diagonally. Then I was hiking on the side of a little hill and I could see a big bridge for the snowmobile trail over to the right of me. It looked like a very substantial bridge. Soon the trail was next to the river again. But this time the river had changed. Now it is a very fast and cascading river, which is more common in the Sawtooth Mountains. After a short ways I noticed a trail going up a little knoll to the left. I was at the West Popular River Campsite.
Unlike the East Popular River Campsite, this campsite was set away from the river a little bit and the SHT ran right next to the river. And as I said it was up a little hill. It was a nice enough campsite, but it seemed to have a lot of tree roots. There was also a trail running right down a steep bank to get water, when they should really be taking the entrance trail down to get water. The steep bank trail was becoming eroded. After examining the campsite, I continued on.
The trail followed the river for a short ways, then departed from the river. Now I was hiking through some mixed wood in a slightly uphill pattern. Every once in a while I would get a glimpse of something on the horizon, but then I came to a bald rocky overlook with a fantastic view. The view was going inland and I looked for the Poplar River but couldn’t see it. Nevertheless, it was quite the view.
After the overlook the trail went down for a short ways, then it was fairly level for a long ways, then took an upward trend. That trend was confirmed when I got to a short rock staircase. After the staircase, the trail followed a ridge where glimpses of the Lutsen Mountain Ski Area could be seen. You could see a few ski runs that still had the last remnants of snow on them. There was another spot that had a good view of Lake Superior. After following this ridge for at least a quarter mile, the trail goes on a downward tear. There are a few rock steps and even a very pronounce switchback coming to a point. Then the trail came out at a road. It’s a dirt road, but I think the only people who drive it is maintenance crews from the Lutsen Mountains. If you take a left at the road you get to the Lutsen Mountains Resort within a half-mile.
Where I came out there was another road straight across that had a big sign saying “Bridge Closed.” I was hoping that wasn’t the bridge I needed to cross. I followed the road towards the bridge for a hundred yards. I could hear and see the rapids of the Popular River that was parallel to the road I was walking on. Then I came to the bridge. Yes, there was a bridge, but it had another sign saying “Bridge Closed.” But under that sign it said “Pedestrians Only.” Wow. The bridge was wide enough for snowmobiles and ATVs, but they had the sign and a big rock blocking the way. But you could easily walk around those obstacles.
So, I walked on the bridge and it had a beautiful view. There is a whole series of waterfalls going downstream of the bridge, plus you can see the Ski Chalet off in the distance. And further off in the distance you can see Lake Superior. It’s a beautiful sight
After I crossed the bridge there is a Superior Hiking Trail sign. It said that there would be a campsite in .6 miles, Moose Mountain would be in 3.1 miles and Oberg Mountain would be in 6.8 miles. I was hoping to do all of that today. I had already hiked 2.1 miles from the campsite I stayed at and 6 miles since I started the night before at the Caribou Trail. After the sign, the SHT splits off the cross country ski trail it was on an starts heading up Mystery Mountain.
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So I headed up Mystery Mountain. I wondered why it was called that. At any rate, I crossed a little creek that was running, then continued up the hill. It was a steady uphill climb but not super strenuous. I hiked a while after the creek, then the trail leveled out and a saw some signs. One was the sign for the Mystery Mountain Multigroup Campsite. The other said SHT to the left, Overlook straight ahead. I set my stuff down on the 2 x 12 board benches at the Campsite campfire area, then I set out to take a look at the overlook. It wasn’t much of an overlook. In fact it looked a little overgrown now.
I went back to the campsite and decided to take a break. I sat down and pulled out some trail mix. I noticed that this campsite had an additional iron fire grate besides the rock lined campfire spot. Then I wondered if this was part of the Mystery. I guess the mystery to me is why they would build a campsite so far from water. That creek that I walked over is a good quarter mile away from the Campsite, but the SHT Guidebook says the closest water is .5 miles away at the Poplar River. So, that little creek must dry up later on in the year. Campsites without water just plain worry me. I think that they are a fire hazard. But maybe people are a little more careful at these sites because I haven’t heard of a major fire breaking out at one of them. The only place I’ve heard of a major fire breaking out at a campsite was the Ham Lake Fire and that was at a campsite located on a lake. Other than that it’s a fairly nice campsite. It’s big and flat, room for plenty of tents.
I ended my break and headed out. It was pretty easy hiking for a long time after that campsite. I was hiking on top of the mountain. You could see glimpses of the ski area as you walked along. The trail went on a slightly downward trend for a little ways then it went on a slightly upward trend for a ways. Finally I came out at a stunning overlook of the ski area with Lake Superior out in the distance. That was really nice. Then the trail went on a decidedly downward trend to the west for a long ways. Then on the way down it hit a switchback and the trail headed east for a long ways until I made it to the bottom of the valley. I walked over a little bridge with a little creek under it. It didn’t look very good to get water from. Then I made it to a longer boardwalk style bridge, and this creek looked better to get water from. So I set down my gear at the other end of the bridge and went out on the bridge and kneeled down to get some water. This was Rollins Creek, and this area I call the headwaters of Rollins Creek.
Later on down the trail I’ll see Rollins Creek again, but first I have to climb up Moose Mountain. That’s the Superior Hiking Trail, they’d never take you down through a nice valley when they can take you up a big hill to an Overlook. Plus this area was part of the Lutsen Mountains Loop. You need to go up the hill to connect with the trail to go to the Gondola. Then you can take the Gondola back to the main resort on Eagle Mountain.
I continued on after Rollins Creek and walked over some more boardwalks that were smaller. Then I got to the spot I dreaded. I saw the trail going up Moose Mountain. It looked like a real ball buster. So, I started up the hill. I was going really slow and taking lots of breaks when all of a sudden there were people behind me. It startled me. It was a young couple named Briana and Jeb. I rested and talked with them for a minute. They were staying at the Resort and doing the loop. I told them I didn’t think the Gondola was running this early in the year, and they said they would find another way back to the resort. I took a photo of them then I let them by and they continued up the hill.
Briana and Jeb were in front of me a ways up the hill, then all of a sudden they just stopped. It turns out that someone was coming down the hill at them. I caught up with them and that’s where I met Roger. Roger had started at the Britton Peak Parking lot and was hiking to a Lake Agnes Campsite to camp for the night, then he would be hiking back to his car on Sunday. It was around 2 pm, and he looked to be carrying a fairly heavy pack for just an overnighter. I told him that I started out at the East Poplar River campsite and had made it this far today. So I didn’t know if he would make it all the way to Lake Agnes. Maybe if he was a younger guy he’d make it, but he looked to be the same age as me, in his 50’s. He told me that I’d be hiking uphill for a little bit more, and once I got to the top it was easy hiking for a while. I was glad to here that. I took his photo, and continued up the hill. By this time Brianna and Jeb were long gone.
It was an exhausting march up Moose Mountain. Finally I made it up to the trail junction, and the climb was over. There was a big SHT mileage sign there. I looked at the mileage. I had traveled 3.5 miles since crossing the Poplar River near the road that goes to the Ski Resort. And I had hiked 10 miles since starting at the Caribou Trail the night before. Also it said Oberg Mountain would be forthcoming in 3 miles. Besides the SHT sign, there was a little sign saying “Back to top of Gondola” with an arrow pointing down the spur trail to the left. I went to the right. I already had been to the top of Moose Mountain a year ago when I took the wonderful gondola ride.
It was easy hiking on Moose Mountain for quite some time, just like Roger said. I was hiking on a ridge for almost a half-mile. You would see glimpses of Lake Superior from time to time, then I came up on a major rock bald spot and there was a spectacular overlook of Lake Superior. After that overlook, the trail plunged in a major downward section including some stairs. After the stairs I met Don And Beth. They were a nice couple in their 40’s I would estimate. They were actually Trail Maintainers for the Superior Hiking Trail that had worked on their section earlier in the Morning. Now they were just out on a hike. They said they thought about going to the Superior Hiking Trail Conference, but just decided to take a hike. I told them that they were going up a steep hill for the next quarter mile, but then there is a nice overlook at the top. They hiked away. It was nice to meet them.
I started hiking through a flat lowland area with mature trees, not a thicket type area that I had experienced near the Poplar River. I went over a few boardwalks then I saw a creek off to the left of the trail. Soon I came to the East Rollins Creek Campsite. It is a nice campsite right next to the creek. The water trail is very short. After inspecting the campsite I headed down the SHT to the Rollins Creek Bridge. It’s a midsized bridge with a much bigger Rollins Creek under it than when I saw it up in the headwaters area. I crossed the bridge and made it to the West Rollins Creek Campsite. This is where I would take a major break.
This campsite was set a little bit away from the creek, but still an easy walk for water. I unpacked my cooking gear and food from my backpack. I was going to cook my supper now, even though it wasn’t supper time. This is a new strategy for me. Previously, I would boil water and eat my dehydraded meal later on in the evening. But the meal was always too much to eat. So now I decided I would eat it earlier, then have the leftovers later on. So I got everything ready, then I lit the match to start the fire in the Kelly Kettle. The water was boiling in just a few minutes. I enjoyed my meal and rest stop at the East Rollins Creek Campsite.
I started hiking through the low lands again. But now there was a new feature hovering over the trail. It was Oberg Mountain. I came upon Oberg Creek after crossing several smaller boardwalks and bridges. Oberg Mountain continued to hover over the trail. I am getting closer and closer with each step. Pretty soon I was actually hiking at the foot of the mountain. I was at the east end of the mountain but the spur trail that leads up to the top of the mountain is on the west end, so I still had some hiking to do. I hiked along the bottom of the mountain where the trail dodges some smaller boulders.
I’m hiking along, and all of a sudden I see this blue flash. It was Jim from Duluth running down the trail at me. He stopped and we talked. He said he was practicing for a marathon that would be happening on the SHT in a few weeks. I took his photo and he continued on. I looked to the west at that spot and I just barely could see Oberg Lake out in the distance through the woods. You wouldn’t be able to see it at all if the leaves were on the trees. I continued on and came up to the Trail Junction of the Oberg Loop. That’s where I met Mike and Monica and their family.
Mike and Monica looked to be in their early 30s and they had 4 younger children with them. I talked with them and gave them a “I saw Tman” Card. I asked them if I could take a photo, and they said sure. I took a photo of the whole family, then I took a photo of just Matt and Monica. I said I would probably be posting the photo of just Matt and Monica because I didn’t like featuring children on the internet for safety reasons. But I told them that I would email them the family photo if they contacted me. They had been up on Oberg Mountain, and were just resting at the junction because there is a bench there. I asked them if they thought the hike up Oberg Mountain was very difficult, and they said no, all of the children had made it just fine. I stashed my backpack out in the woods and headed up the Mountain
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The Path was nice and wide going up the hill. You could tell this is a popular hike. I’ve heard that in the fall they have so many people that they have a Parking Patrol down at the parking lot. The trail came to a more difficult uphill stretch, and then I reached a switchback. And at that time, three younger people caught me at the switchback. It was three guys. They looked to be in there early twenties. I let them by and that’s the last I seen of them. I kept hiking and made it up to the loop trail junction. When you travel around the mountain you eventually make it back to this spot to go down the hill. I decided to take the trail to the right. I think that’s how most people do it.
Soon I made it to a very spectacular overlook. It was at this overlook that a young couple caught up with me. The thing I remember about them was that the woman had a bright pink coat. I offered to take their photo with their camera and did so, then they took my photo with my camera, and they were on their way. I followed them, but every time I was going to take a photo of the trail, you could see the hot pink coat. So, I decided to wait for a while.
I started hiking again and came to another overlook, but it had a sign. It said “approaching scenic overlook, Caution, Keep Children at hand.” The other overlook didn’t have a sign like that, so maybe this overlook is more dangerous. This overlook had a very good view of Lake Superior, and it also had a picnic table made out of logs cut length ways for a flat surface. But at this overlook I had caught up with the woman with the bright pink coat, so I waited a while until they were a distance away, then I started photographing the trail again. This trend repeated at the next overlook. There is a series of 8 overlooks on top of Oberg Mountain. Pretty soon I made it to the east end of the Mountain where there is an overlook where you get your first glimpse of Oberg Lake back around the mountain. This overlook had railings. It had a really good view of Moose Mountain and Mystery Mountain where I had been hiking earlier in the day.
I continued around the top of the mountain, getting photos of the lady with the pink coat way off in the distance down the trail. Oh, well. Finally I made it to an overlook looking inland towards Oberg Lake. This overlook had one of those warning signs again. It must be more dangerous than some of the other overlooks. Finally I made it back to the trail junction and proceeded down the hill. I grabbed my backpack and headed down to the Oberg Mountain Trailhead.
There’s several things going on at this trailhead. First there is the SHT going to the east, which leads to the Oberg Mountain Loop. Then there is the SHT going to the West, which leads to the Leveau Mountain Loop. Then there is the Sugarbush Ski Trail System, which loops around to the north. It’s a big parking lot, with a bigger brick outhouse and a couple nice kiosks. I was taking photos of the trailhead when Don and Beth happened to come along. I had met them as they were headed up Moose Mountain.
I talked with them a little bit, and asked them if they could take my coat down to the Cobblestone Cabins. I really didn’t need the heavy coat, and it was just weighing me down. Beth seemed to be acquainted with Jan and Kathy of the Cobblestone Cabins somehow. She said her dad had taught Jan in school, but that must have been a long time ago. They agreed to take the coat. I was glad to get rid of the coat. I had panicked and taken the coat at the last minute when I really didn’t need it. I hate being cold.
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I headed down the SHT to the west towards Leveau Mountain. But I kept thinking on how Don reminds me of a Scout Leader I know named Bob Gebert. Bob is a longtime Scoutmaster in the town of Poynette, Wisconsin. After he stopped being Scoutmaster, he continued on in Scouting volunteering with the local Scouting District. The resemblance between Don and Bob was amazing. They both had the same stocky body type and same facial features including a hardy mustache. They even wore the same type of clothes. I remember that Bob Gebert didn’t like talking in front of people that much. He would do it, but he always seemed uncomfortable. He didn’t like talking on the telephone that much either. I asked him to make some phone calls for a camporee and he wouldn’t do it. But if you needed someone to staff the Camporee, Klondike or other event, he was always there for you.
The trail was going on a slightly downhill trend for quite some time. After about a half-mile I reached the Onion River Multigroup Campsite. It was located in some tall pines up from the Onion River. It had lots of nice places to set up tents in the pine grove. The campsite even had a picnic table near the Campfire area. It was up on a small hill with the Onion River down below. But you couldn’t see the river because there was it was too thickety between the campsite and the river. I continued down the trail and soon found the Onion River Bridge. It’s a fairly large wooden bridge, I say it’s about twenty yards long. The river is fairly fast flowing below it.
I hiked to the west on the Superior Hiking Trail. I could see Leveau Mountain out in the distance, but it didn’t seem as big and ominous as Oberg Mountain did earlier in the day. I came to the spot where there is a trail junction with the Leveau Mountain Trail. That trail intersects the SHT in two places, so I continued on down the SHT for the second trail junction, which I reached in short order. But, on that short hike between the two trail junctions, I scared off two really big whitetail deer. I set down my gear on a nearby waist high rock, and headed up the mountain.
It wasn’t the hardest hill I ever walked up, but it did have some strenuous spots. It was about the same as Oberg Mountain. There were a couple switchbacks on the way up, then I hit a trail junction on top. There are actually two loops on top of Leveau Mountain. I headed off to the right. And I’m glad I went that way because there is a spectacular overlook down that direction. You could see Carlton Peak way out in the distance and it also had a good view of Lake Superior. But that’s the problem, it had a very good view, and I could see that storm clouds were on their way. So, I scurried away a finished the western loop on Leveau Mountain. And I figured that was good enough. I didn’t do the eastern loop. I had already seen a dozen fine overlooks that day, now I needed to high tail it to a campsite and get set up. So I headed down the Mountain and back to my gear.
There was another alarming thing that happened on Leveau. I was eating a tootsie roll for energy, then all of a sudden I felt something different in my mouth. I took out the tootsie roll and looked at it, and it had part of a tooth attached to it. My back molar had broken off. Normally that would be a painful experience, except for that tooth already had a root canal done on it. Now I really am having some teeth problems. My front toot is missing because they are making a bridge, and now my back tooth broke in half. I saved the tooth in my first aid kit and continued on. My mouth felt funny with a jagged edge instead of a tooth.
So, I headed southwest on the Superior Hiking Trail and it went in a downward pattern over the next half-mile. It crossed a few boardwalks then I see a more substantial bridge ahead on the trail. It was the bridge for Leveau Creek. Before I got to the creek there was a path going to the right to the East Leveau Campsite. I went down the path and checked out the campsite. It seemed like a nice campsite right next to the Leveau Beaver Pond. But according to the guidebook, the next campsite is just one tenth of a mile down the trail, so I went there. I went across the Leveau Creek Bridge, up a little hill and there was the West Leveau Campsite.
I arrived around 6 pm, and it wasn’t in danger of getting dark too soon. But I put up my tent first thing, then put up the bear bag rope second, just like I did the night before. I was having a new problem. I was getting cold. Maybe I shouldn’t have given away my coat to Beth and Don to take to the Cobblestone Cabins. I made a little fire and heated up my leftover meal that I made a Rollins Creek. I still was cold, and the fire it died out. The problem with this campsite is that it is in a low land thicket area, and there isn’t very much substantial wood to burn. I got in my tent and put my long underwear top and bottoms on. Then I put my shirt and clothes back on. I hopped into my sleeping bag and I was finally warm. But the funny thing was the main thing I was hearing was frogs croaking down by the beaver pond. I wondered how the hell they could be out when it was so cold.