Pilgrimage Trip to the Holy Land, 8th - 18th September 2014

Tour Leader: Canon Chris S.

Guides: David (Day B) and Salim (Days C to K)

NOTE: These are my personal notes based on our guides’ comments and my own reading. They may have errors or misunderstandings or misspellings. (They may include things our guides knew but the books don’t!) The language is abbreviated in note form. It includes a few things that are my own opinions, and also some history notes from further reading that not everyone may agree with! Names of friends we met in country are given only in the form of initials.

George B. Hill

*** = This symbol indicates readings, etc.

Day A (Monday 8^th September)

Flight from Manchester.

· Passed over the Aegean Sea, with Patmos, where John wrote Revelation, off distantly to the left.

Israel: landed Tel Aviv, set out by coach

· Going up from the plain into the “Judaean hill country”. Going “up to Jerusalem”.

*** Read Psalm 122, one of the “Songs of Ascents” of pilgrims going to Jerusalem.

Day B (Tuesday 9^th September)

Our guide greets us with the words, "Welcome home! You have come home. This is where Christianity began. This is its spiritual home."

Drove to:

The Mount of Olives

· The Mount was covered with olive trees except when the Romans felled them during the siege of AD70 and when the Turks cut them down in the early 1900s to make railway sleepers.

· The Mount separates the Judean desert, the wilderness to the east, from the fertile Judean hill country to the west. Thus, symbolically it separates death from life. At the start of Holy Week Jesus would have walked up from Jericho through the desert of death to the high point of the ridge of the Mount of Olives and looked toward Jerusalem to see life (He did not; so he wept). The Mount was first mentioned in connection with King David’s flight from Absalom as he left Jerusalem over the Kidron Valley and ascended it weeping; so the King of the first Temple era departed over the Mount while the King of the Second Temple returned over it, also weeping.

· Formerly it was a place of the dead, the place of the tombs of the poor – so Jesus came for their sake here.

Walked to:

The Church of the Pater Noster

· Lovely garden – many holy sites have beautiful gardens.

· The holy sites are looked after by many denominations (don’t use the D-word!) and while we may not all appreciate some of these, we have a great debt to those who have protected for many centuries what would otherwise probably now be theme parks and covered with souvenir shops.

· All the great churches on holy sites tend to be built over a cave or grotto or cell or original building.

· This one is built over the cave where Jesus (in the Luke account) is believed to have taught the disciples the Lord’s Prayer.

· The building was never finished and the unfinished courtyard has the Lord’s Prayer in over 120 different languages on the walls.

· After the Roman persecution, when Constantine became Emperor and the Roman Empire became Christian, Constantine and his mother began to build churches on the remembered holy sites. (The empire split into Roman and Byzantine halves so the churches are Byzantine). The first four churches built were those of Bethlehem, Nazareth, the Resurrection site in Jerusalem and this one. These were obviously the ones thought of greatest importance and historical certainty.

· This is therefore on the site of a 4^th century basilica built partly within the cave.

· NB. All but one of the Byzantine churches in the Holy Land was demolished by the Persians in AD614.

· Also there are some 1^st century AD tombs.

· History note: Originally the cave was recorded as the place where the persecuted early Christians venerated Christ’s ascension (or rather, found it safest to do so, even though it obviously took place outside the cave!); then it became associated with His teaching on good and evil in Matthew 24-6; and later still with the teaching of the Lord’s prayer. But in any case, from earliest times it has been a special place associated with Jesus carrying out His teaching and ministry.

*** Read the Lord’s Prayer from the wall.

Walked down the steep hill (as Jesus must have done) to:

The church of Dominus Flevit

· “Dominus flevit” = “the Lord wept”.

· Built in the shape of a tear drop.

· Recalls the place where Jesus wept over Jerusalem.

· Built over an early Byzantine church.

· Has the “Chalice” window that frames the view of the Old City cross the valley.

· The mosaic on the front of the altar has a hen gathering her chickens.

· History note: No early history for this site but clearly Jesus wept over the city somewhere near here.

*** Read Luke 19 vv 41-4.

View over the Old City from Dominus Flevit

· The entire Old City of Jerusalem is built of creamy-white limestone that shines in the sunshine. There is no other sight like this.

· In front is the Temple Mount, originally on Mount Moriah but later extended to the left (south) by Herod the Great, further along the small ridge of Ophel.

· Central on this, the Dome of the Rock (roof of real gold leaf provided by the king of Jordan) was built on the former Temple site. That was built on the summit rock of what is held to be Mount Moriah where Abraham was willing to sacrifice his son, believing God would raise him from the dead (and later, God did allow His Son to die and did raise Him from the dead).

· Beyond the Dome of the Rock is the Church of the Resurrection (the Church of the Holy Sepulchre).

· This stands in the Old City (population 55% Muslim, 45% Jewish, 1% at most Christian).

· A Russian church down to the right (another golden roof) is where Prince Philip’s mother is buried.

· In front of the Temple Mount is the Kidron valley.

· The three valleys of Jerusalem: they form a trident-shaped hand holding the city itself.

· The Kidron valley (the valley of Jehoshaphat) is the valley of kingship, where the final resurrection and judgement is believed to take place.

· Away off to the left, the valley of Hinnom (Gehenna) symbolizes hell, perhaps the perpetually burning city rubbish dump and former place of child sacrifice.

· In between is the hidden valley, the Tyropoeon Valley, between Mount Zion and the Temple Mount ridge. A bridge once crossed it from Mount Zion toward the Temple. But it is now filled in and nearly invisible. [Note: on old maps it runs up into the Old City and splits either side of the Church of the Resurrection. Could we see this as the (hidden) valley of mercy, between those of kingship/judgement and condemnation? Not said by our guide – just my idea].

· Geography note 1: It might help to understand that Jerusalem has moved! In particular the name of Mount Zion has moved to a different hill! The little ancient city on what was then called Mount Zion (now known as Ophel) was directly south of the Temple Mount. Solomon built the First Temple north of this. Later the population – and then the name Mount Zion - moved across the valley from the small eastern to the larger western hill (where St Peter in Gallicantu now stands) where it applies now.

· Geography note 2: The original city’s water supply was from the only perennial spring, the Gihon spring south of the Temple Mount on the side of Ophel. Water was later channelled (Hezekiah’s tunnel) from this across the Tyropoeon valley to the Pool of Siloam at the foot of the “later” eastern Mount Zion.

Opposite across the valley is:

Golden Gate

· Golden or East Gate: this gate was sealed 800 years ago and legend/tradition has it (Jews, Christians and Muslims) that it will not be opened again until Judgement Day, when the righteous will enter the Holy City.

· History note: This is not an early Church legend – dates from mediaeval times.

· Jews expect the Messiah to lead them into the city.

· Christians expect Jesus to enter the city after His Second Coming onto the Mount of Olives.

· Muslims expect Jesus (under a different name) – they believe He did not die on the Cross and was substituted at the last minute by (probably) Barabbas. They call the halves of the Gate the Gates of Penance and Mercy.

· Because of this and the view that judgement will take place in the valley of Jehoshaphat (see above), there is a huge Muslim cemetery in front of the Golden Gate, and Christian graves and a huge Jewish cemetery on the Mount of Olives opposite it (in which burial currently costs between a half and one million dollars!). The Jewish graves have stones, not flowers on them. Flowers would die and the Jews expect to throw the stones to build the new city when the Messiah comes.

Jerusalem, the city

· Besieged 54 times; totally destroyed twice; partly destroyed seven times.

· Known as the centre of the world.

· Occupied by 37 nations

· In Genesis it is named as Salem, city of peace, Abraham ruled by Melchizedek (a theophany?) who met Abraham. Also by Adoni-zedek.

Walked down to:

The Garden of Gethsemane

· (Not perfectly quiet – close to road. But it probably wasn’t at Passover, either!).

· Largest tree is 18 feet round. Carbon dating suggests some wood might be 2300 years old – and so there at the time of Christ. However, all trees near Jerusalem must have been at least reduced to stumps during the Roman siege in AD70.

*** 4 gospels, also Psalms 55 & 142

The Garden is at the side of:

The Church of All Nations/Church of the Agony

· So called because it was built with help from all over the world.

· About 100 metres from the “Cave of the Olive Press” where Jesus often sheltered with the disciples. (Luke – “a stone’s throw”).

· An early Byzantine church here (AD381) was demolished by the Persians in AD614. This is built on top of remains of this and a Crusader church.

· The first place where Jesus ordered His disciples to pray.

· Dark inside. Windows are all purple – the purple robe of Isaiah 63.

· In front of the altar is a stone believed to be the one on which Jesus prayed and sweated with drops like ones of blood.

· The iron wreath surrounding the stone (sent from Australia) is in the shape of a crown of thorns, with a trapped silver dove at each corner.

· Byzantine mosaics.

· History note: Certainly the site of an early Byzantine church commemorating where Jesus prayed, and close to the natural route of the footpath up the Mount; Jesus clearly prayed somewhere near here.

*** Read Luke 22 vv 39-54. “Watch and pray that you enter not into temptation”.

Drove down Kidron valley and turned up alongside Old City wall towards:

Church of St Peter in Gallicantu (on Mount Zion)

· Possible house of Caiaphas (but there is a more likely candidate higher up the hill)

· Archaeology certainly shows it was an important house occupied by priests

· Quite possibly it was once the city jail, it has cells excavated below it.

· The guardroom and the cells below it were from Herod’s time and known to early Christians who worshipped on Mount Zion and passed on the tradition of this site. (NB. Psalm 88 – “deep pit”).

· A tradition not in the Bible is that Jesus was held in the cells and tortured after his arrest.

· Quite possibly the place where Peter and John were held (see Acts).

· Pavement – recalls Peter’s denials, also a painting above the alter af him. The church has a cockerel above a cross on its dome.

· Caiaphas was a Sadducee – a group linked to Herod, who was the son of an Idumaean convert and an Arab princess, so hardly Jewish.

· (Our guide said that) Annas (his father-in-law) was a Pharisee – not sure about this?

· Sadducees hated Jesus because He exposed the corruption of the Temple.

· “Kosher” at that time was not a dietary restriction but meant that lambs for the Temple sacrifices must come from Bethlehem. Jesus found the poor were being cheated out of this and given other cheaper lambs. (Of course, He came from Bethlehem – the Lamb of God…)

· Jesus’s trial was false because: 1) it was by night and so illegal; 2) it was in Passover when work should not be done; 3) prisoners should have been kept for 24 hours before trial; 4) the witnesses were false.

· Peter denied Him (here?) because: 1) they were searching particularly for Galileans who would be witnesses against Him; 2) he was in danger unlike John who was with him but evidently had rich family connections.

· History note: Little archaeological support as Caiaphas’ house but for main interest see Steps below.

*** Read Luke 24 vv 54-62 – Peter’s denial

Outside church:

Ancient steps up from Pool of Siloam (and thus the Kidron valley) onto Mount Zion

· These excavated steps were almost certainly the main way up from the valley to the hill in the time of Christ (there was unlikely to be more than one set).

· Since the Upper Room is believed to have been on Mount Zion, Jesus and His disciples almost certainly walked down them to Gethsemane after the Last Supper.

· Then He was brought back up them under arrest.

· Beautiful friezes on the wall above steps illustrate both events.

(Did not visit possible site of Last Supper)

Drove to Ein Kerim to:

Church of St John the Baptist

· The only site said to be the birthplace of John the Baptist and home of Zechariah and Elizabeth.

· Their presumed home is in the grotto under the church.

· Mary visited Elizabeth here.

· Zechariah’s prayer (the Benedictus) is on a plaque outside the church.

· Naming of John – note that in Jewish tradition the mother names the baby.

· History note: Ancient village and Byzantine era church but no other evidence.

*** Read Luke 1 vv 5-25 and the Benedictus

Drove to Abu Gosh:

Church of the Resurrection (NB. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is also this)

· One of 3 or 4 possible sites of Emmaus.

· Striking how hilly the country is round here (and all around the city) – when they “returned at once to Jerusalem” from Emmaus, it was not just a quick stroll!

· Very fine example of a Crusader church.

· The early Crusaders were brutal but later ones built carefully on Byzantine ruins and preserved memories of the holy places, these we have a debt to.

· The Crusaders built very solid churches with characteristic vaulted roofs

· Small windows because there were too few Crusaders to guard them all well

· The Muslims began to scrub off the faces on the mosaics– deface them! – but then gave up and painted them over. Now restored.

· History note 1: Of the others possible sites for Emmaus, another is a similar distance from the city and a third, the least likely one, is 19 miles from Jerusalem. The fourth, perhaps the most likely of all, is now an empty hillside.

· History note 2: Abu Gosh is, however, also significant as probably the original village was (on hill nearby) where the Ark of the Covenant rested for 20 years.

Took evening walk into Old City via:

Damascus Gate

· One of 8 gates to the Old City.

· The current Old City walls were built by Suleiman the Magnificent in 1540.

· Built over a Roman arch from the 2^nd century, though city wall was not here (not this far out) in Jesus’ time?

· Leads onto Damascus Road. Undoubtedly the route Paul would have taken on leaving the city, though this wall and the first Roman gate do not date before AD41.

·

Day C (Wednesday 10^th September)

Walked via:

Herod Gate

· Jerusalem has Muslim, Jewish, Armenian and Christian quarters.

Walked through Muslim quarter to:

Start of the Via Dolorosa (in grounds of Muslim school)

*** Series of readings – not recorded individually

· No-one is sure exactly of the site of Pilate’s Praetorium where Jesus was condemned. Candidates are: 1) the Antonia fortress (surviving pavement is here); 2) Herod’s palace on the west side of the Old City – this is the one archaeologists now favour; 3) near the Western Wall and 4) the Hasmonean Palace, under the present Jewish quarter.

· No. 1) where the Via Dolorosa begins is now thought less likely.

· But the Via Dolorosa has been walked and prayed along by millions of pilgrims for many centuries; it is the meaningful route even if perhaps not the actual one.

· Beautiful situation to start from. So quiet that you could almost seem to hear the crowd shouting “Crucify!”

· Station I, where Jesus was condemned to death

· Also here - Stations II & III – Chapels of the Flagellation and Condemnation, the latter with the Lithostratos, the stone pavement of the yard where He was on trial.

Three Stations where Jesus fell

Station V – the Simon of Cyrene chapel

Station VI – tradition of Veronica wiping His face

· The Via follows the narrow alleys of the Old City, with the world, trolleys, mobile phones, men with trays of bread on their heads, Coke adverts, posters … but then Jesus walked and carried His Cross through the world, too.

Station VIII – out of the city by the Justice Gate

*** Read Psalm 38

Slowly come in sight of:

Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Church of the Resurrection) with Stations X – XIV

· Almost in the centre of the Old City – certainly not now “outside a city wall!”

· A complete architectural confusion! Over 30 different chambers and chapels (The product of 2000 years of church business meetings?)

· Six different Christian groups look after parts of it. Bad?! – but the one good point: no-one has control over it or can say it belongs to them. That, at least, is as it should be.

· History note: Almost certainly the site of the Crucifixion and Resurrection and believed to be that since earliest times.

Into church and up steep staircase to left, to:

Roman Catholic chapel (one of two) on top of the rock of Calvary

· Archaeological general view: The original tomb was one of a number in the wall of a limestone quarry outside the city wall. Calvary was a nearby knoll, part of the quarry wall, that the quarriers had not cut away because it was cracked and no good.

· The sides of the rock of Calvary were later cut away leaving it as a vertical block, on which the chapels stand. Site of the Cross – supposed to be under the altar. Either side, sites of the other two crosses and the crack caused by the earthquake.

Continue inside church to Slab of Anointing and then on to the Rotunda over the Tomb.

· Note: the alternative, the Garden Tomb (see later), feels much more like the real place but little historical support. But this is a classic example of the principle that in the Holy Land there is often a probable site which is ridiculously venerated and adorned, and an improbable one that feels like the real place surely did. One should go both - to the first for the history; and the second for the atmosphere and to feel the Lord’s real presence.

· Emperor Hadrian filled in the quarry c 135 AD and built a pagan temple over the site of the tomb to stop the early Christians worshipping there – he was obviously convinced it was the right place.

· Later Constantine demolished the temple, dug out the quarry and found the tomb.

· History note: How did he know which one it was? Undoubtedly its appearance had been passed down. But in any case, graffiti by pilgrims who visited the site very probably identified it, as it recently did the tomb of Peter at the Vatican. Also pilgrims chipped pieces off as souvenirs! Also it has been suggested that the top of the rock of Calvary was never entirely covered by Hadrian’s work, so the Christians could still locate what lay beneath.

· The cliff behind the tomb was cut away, leaving it free-standing. But in around 1000AD the Mad Caliph demolished it; only two parts of the tomb wall and just enough of the burial bench to show its shape remained (buried under the rubble) survived. An outrageous architectural monstrosity, a sort of mock-Gothic shed (!) held together by steel girders put up by British engineers after an earthquake in 1926, now stands on the site. The original tomb bench remains are invisible, covered by two marble slabs.

· The Resurrection took place in there. Is the Resurrection still in there? No! It’s in me, in my heart, now!

Descended into grotto behind the Tomb to see:

Supposed (second) grave of Joseph of Arimathea.

· Blackened by smoke from the original white limestone but otherwise looks like Christ’s tomb probably did. Very much more sense of atmosphere.

*** Read variously from the Gospels

Walked through city and left by Jaffa Gate:

· On top of hill: King David Hotel (blown up in 1947)

Drove along road which was the border until 1967:

· Ruined houses from that war, left as a memorial.

Drove through the Wall checkpoint to Palestinian territories:

· En route – distant view of Herod the Great’s hilltop palace, the Herodion.

The Shepherd’s Fields

· Two possible sites where the angels appeared to the shepherds.

· We visited the Franciscan one a lovely hillside/hilltop situation- feels like the real place.

· Has a cave that was certainly used by shepherds.

· Chapel of the Angels - an unusual church because it has high windows making it bright inside.

· Striking statue of an angel over the door.

· History note: This site fits the scriptural account less well than the other, but real way of knowing the real site.

*** Celebrated communion on the hillside (Canon Chris). “We are not worthy to gather up the crumbs” was meaningful, as Gentiles in the Holy Land.

Drove to Bethlehem:

· Bethlehem has 20,000 in refugee camps.

The Wall

· Saw the Wall where it loops round cutting through Bethlehem to keep Rachel’s Tomb, the 3^rd most holy place for Jews, in Jewish territory.

· The Wall – the 1) Security Wall (Israelis) or 2) Dividing Wall (Palestinians).

· The whole of the Occupied Territories (West Bank etc.) is divided into:

· Area A – closed to Israelis – comprises the main Palestinian cities

· Area B – joint control, Palestinians live there, it contains no Israeli settlements but the Israeli settlers seize land there for their own use.

· Area C – Israeli Defence Force control, Palestinians not allowed, but should go to the Palestine Authority in any final peace settlement. Holds much of the West Bank’s natural resources of which the Palestinians are currently starved. But Israelis build many settlements in it – this will be an obstacle in any peace talks.

· Wall is 500km long (mostly wall, some still fence) and 6, 8 or 12m high. Built to keep out suicide bombers.

· NB. East Jerusalem – should be part of Area C but Israelis do not recognize this.

· Palestinians struggle to get work permits for Jerusalem - very long waits.

· There are many foreign workers. Actually, however, the Israelis prefer Palestinian workers because 1) they are closer to the Jews in culture, background and language; and 2) they go home at night.

· Banksy is a strong supporter of the Palestinians and paints Banksys on the Wall, with a shop nearby.

· The Wall has increased pressure on Palestinians living near it; fewer tourists; less in shops than there used to be; water cut off for a week at a time; properties near the Wall starved of water which is piped to the Israeli side to water their gardens.

Visited a restaurant next to the Wall owned by C. & her son G., Palestinian Christians:

· Restaurant has twice been trashed by Israeli soldiers who wanted the site as a watch-point.

· Owners also pressured by local Muslims who want to make money out of the site. (Perhaps with connivance of the Israelis???)

Drove to Bethlehem bus station (cavernous!) and walked up hill to:

Church of the Nativity and Manger Square

· Being restored (at last!)

· Recent fire due to too many oil lamps in the grotto!

· One of the four oldest and first built Byzantine churches

· The only one of the four not destroyed by the Persians around AD 600 – apparently because they saw figures of the Wise Men (Magi) on the walls and recognised them as Persians!

· Muslim families unlock the door (good local co-operation example).

· Run by Orthodox/Catholic/Apostolic Armenian – again, no overall control.

· Entrance by the Humble Door (very low!)

· Grotto with silver star under the bare altar marking where Jesus was born.

· Many people would have remembered the event, due to: 1) shepherds’ visit; 2) Wise Men’s visit (though not to the grotto, the Holy Family were in a house by then) and 3) Herod’s murder of the children. The latter was entirely in character for Herod, who killed his wife sons and most of his relatives – Caesar is said to have observed that it was better to be Herod’s pig than Herod’s son.

· The main cave is linked to other caves under the church where: 1) the Catholics celebrate Christmas Mass (broadcast each year); 2) Jerome translated the Bible into Latin from Greek.

· The great Caliph Omar was invited to pray here and at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre but refused on the grounds that Muslims would later turn them into mosques. (So Omar is a popular name for Palestinian Christians and the story is good for relations between Christians and Muslims.)

· History note: The site is strongly supported by very ancient tradition.

*** Read the Nativity story from Luke.

Met lovely Palestinian family (I. and E., with 4 daughters N., J., ?, ?)

Day D (Thursday 11^th September)

Bus/walked to:

Zion Gate

· Bullet holes from failed assault by Jews in 1948 and successful assault in 1967.

Walked down through the Jewish quarter to:

Western Wall (formerly called the Wailing Wall)

· Orthodox Jewish dress: 1) wear black because they are still in mourning for the destruction of the Temple; 2) men must cover heads with a yarmulke (keeper) because “God has power over our thoughts and heads”; 3) forehead/armband – 1o Commandments, “God has power over our minds and thoughts”; 4) shawl – blue and white (NB Israeli flag) from octopus dye (sea) and water (peace); “God has protection and power over us”

· Curls – one of the regulations. The Jews have 600 Commandments! The Old Testament has 10; the New Testament has 2 …

· Sabbath regulations – mean that on Saturdays Jews look for Muslim doctors etc to run hospitals and schools for them.

· Bar Mitzvah – procession with drums and blowing the shofar (ram’s horn) at age 13 for boys. Bar Mitzvah means “good man”. Girls have a similar smaller ritual at age 12.

· Men and women separated at the Wall. Bar Mitzvahs – women look over the partition and throw sweets.

· Prayer at the wall – prayers on scraps of paper pushed into the cracks. When finished, they step backwards first.

Temple Mount – not visited (clashes every 2-3 days; there was one yesterday)

Temple Mount access

· Controlled by Muslims (the Waqf)

· Muslims do not like the non-Muslim access route next to the Wall. There are 7 Muslim only entrances.

· Bibles cannot be taken up.

· Jews sometimes disguise themselves as tourists to try to get up on Temple Mount and pray. Muslim vigilantes watch for them to stop them. Soldiers may protect Jews.

· Temple Mount was once the most holy shrine for Muslims and is now the 3^rd holiest after Mecca and Medina.

· Muslims fear that one day the Temple Mount will be partitioned between Muslims and Jews and they will lose control. This has already happened at Abraham’s tomb at Hebron; the site there is now split.

· Jews want to rebuild the Temple.

Walked north through Old City near Wall of Temple Mount past:

Western Wall Tunnels

· Tunnel runs parallel to Wall. Need to book.

· Narrows to wide enough for only 1 person in places

· Miniature synagogue at the point in the tunnel nearest to where the Jews think the Holiest of Holies was.

Temple Mount entrance

· Walked up through covered passage to one of the Muslim entrances to look up onto Temple Mt.

· Mamluk architecture.

Walked to:

St Ann’s Church & Pool of Bethesda with (just to the north) former site of the Sheep Gate

· Church a very good example of Crusader style. Looked after by the White Fathers.

· Grotto underneath is believed to be where the Virgin Mary was born. Her parents (Mother = Ann) lived here.

· Bethesda – healing powers story, miracle, & “Sabbath made for man”.

· Sheep Gate was once just north of here, the gate by which the sheep for sacrifice entered the Temple. (I have heard that Jesus entered by tat gate at the start of Holy Week.)

· History note: Identification as Bethesda and as Mary’s home was suggested in the 3^rd and 4^th century; nothing known before this.

*** Read the story of Jesus at Bethesda

Party separated

- Main party went to St George’s Cathedral

· There are 2-3 Palestinian Christian families who still worship there who trace their ancestry back to people who were in Jerusalem for the first Day of Pentecost.

· Talk from the dean, a Palestinian expert.

- Peter, Susan etc. went to Israeli Museum (Dead Sea Scrolls) and Yad Vashem, (Holocaust memorial).

· Two of Dead Sea Scrolls at museum.

- George and Christine went back past the Western Wall to the Davidson Centre:

· Met a Bar-Mitzvah band! Also saw a couple of Jews being arrested and met lots of soldiers coming down the stairs we were going up, all with guns (but only going to a religious event)!

Davidson Centre (the Ophel Archaeological Gardens)

· Audio-visual presentation about a “simple pilgrim from a small village in the Galilee” who brings a sacrifice to the Temple. Guess who this is getting at!

· Corner of the Temple Mount (some way below the floor level of the Western Wall plaza, a tthat of the original paving stones. These were laid cAD62-4 by Herod Agrippa, so Jesus never walked on them; but the stones of the Wall would have been a corner He would have walked around. (And was it one where the hypocrites like to stand to as to be “seen by men”?!)

· The huge stub in the Wall (overhead) and crumbled supports – all that remains of Robinson’s Arch, the former royal entrance to the Temple.

· Immense blocks of stone from Herod’s original temple porticoes, pushed off the top of the Wall by the Romans when they demolished the Temple. Twenty tons each? Left in a heap by the archaeologists who found them. One has a carving to say it was where the trumpeter stood above the corner of the Mount.

· Massively smashed paving stones! – below where the huge blocks fell 50 feet when the Romans pushed them off.

Continued along the south face of the Temple Mount through hole in an Ottoman wall. Beyond that:

The “Rabbi’s Steps”

· Until recently a grassy slope grazed by sheep.

· Excavated to find (parts of) the original main stone steps leading up to the Double Gate, one of the Temple entrances for the ordinary people (the other is the Triple Gate, no steps remain from this) . Many new steps have been laid where there are gaps, but some of the lower ones are original Herodian stone and date from Jesus’s time.

· Jesus would actually have taught often on these steps, and He and most others would have used them to walk up into the Temple.

· Almost blisteringly hot to the touch! What a sun-trap! – and a warm place to sit and listen to someone on a cool day…

Walked through the suk (half a mile long!), then group re-gathered at:

The Garden Tomb

· Real atmosphere of the Resurrection – could really imagine Mary Magdalene standing there. Deeply moving.

· Not known as an early site. Only suggested by General Gordon in the 19^th century.

· Various pieces of evidence were put forward. Seemed sufficient in any case to allow one to believe it just might have been the right place, ie. could be treated as if it were in an atmospheric sense. Very helpful but nowhere near convincing to me, but views differ.

· Evidence suggested for Garden Tomb: 1) Hill just is the highest part of Mount Moriah so should be where Abraham/Isaac happened; 2) site is adjacent to a busy road, a site like those used for crucifixions; 3) quarry is known to have been quarried out 30 years before the Crucifixion; 4) better than Holy Sepulchre site which is close to Herod’s palace (thus less likely because of smell of bodies?); 5) Holy Sepulchre tomb type appears the wrong shape for someone to see there was no body at a glance. 6) Garden Tomb is right shape, with a “weeping chamber” at entrance where tools were kept – indicates a rich man’s grave; 7) small Byzantine church here; 8) Byzantine cross on the wall of the Tomb; 8) huge water tank – thus a garden? 9) “Gordon’s Calvary” shows the shape of a skull in the cliff face now.

· Against these points, no secular archaeologists/historians take it seriously and there is no historical evidence that the site was greatly reverenced – no great Byzantine church. There were tombs at the Holy Sepulchre site in any case. Water tanks were everywhere in Jerusalem at that time. Would the cliff face not erode in 2000 years?

· No rolling stone was found.

· The only Protestant holy site around. Profound … or wishful thinking? But is there any need to decide – not really. An extraordinary atmosphere.

· More importantly, does God want us to worship a place of death or execution? No!

Day E (Friday 11^th September)

Drove to:

Qumran

· Essenes: another sect like Pharisees and Sadducees.

· Unlike them, pure desert dwellers – not legalist or political city men. Mavericks.

· “Yahad” community – male; like a monastery or kibbutz; wore white.

· Motive – learning & teaching about the Old Testament

· Skilled in writing when very few were.

· Dedicated in body, mind and spirit.

· Preserved truth from the Old Testament for the world.

· Their writing used exactly the same Hebrew letters used now.

· Waiting for the Messiah to come.

· John the Baptist probably learned from them and may have belonged to them at first.

· Dead Sea Scrolls hidden in 66AD, then were damaged presumably by a Roman soldier in 68AD, then found again from 1947 after the shepherd threw a stone into the cave and heard it plunk!

*** Reading from Psalm 8

Drove along whole length of shore of Dead Sea past En Gedi (not visited) to:

Masada

· History – not repeated here.

· Is suicide a crime? Even though those who died are now considered resistance heroes and the alternative was death for them and slavery for their families? Answer – yes, for me. The better choice was surely by 2 or 3 who died but hid their families rather than kill them, these escaped to tell the story.

Drove to:

Lot Hotel (Dead Sea)

· Swam in Dead Sea. Air temp 36, water nearer 40. Salt at mealtime – was it ground up Lot’s wife??

Day F (Saturday 13^th September)

Drove out through Jewish area:

· Strict Orthodox Jews consider themselves professional prayers, on behalf of Jews worldwide.

· They do not pay taxes, or serve in army, or work

· Have on average 8 children per family

· Becoming very unpopular with Government and rest of population – treated liberally until now but numbers growing fast…

· Significant in the Knesset (parliament) – this parliamentary democracy has 120 seats. 6-7 are held by Arab parties.

Drove to:

Jeel al Amal boys home and co-ed school

· Boys only live here but it is not the culture to mix sexes; girls live in their own homes or a different boarding home

· Started with 5 children, first year grew to 50 then 100 then 150. Then bought site in Bethany. By 1982, 80 boys boarding.

· Ages 3-16 (different orphanage for babies). All social cases, all Palestinian.

· Difficult backgrounds. Includes orphans; children from remote villages; children from outside marriage, not recognised by either side; ones who have never known any family; autistic, ADHD; etc.

· One boy was badly burnt (probably by mentally ill father. Mother absent).

· One boy was badly beaten; if you called his name he shivered and hid his face in his hands.

· Children who don’t have a loaf of bread at home. When they see it on the table, they grab, start to eat and start to hide it. They gradually learn that it is provided for them

· Children referred to the home through Social Welfare.

· One elderly lady found two boys in streets; the home investigated and took them in.

· No refusals so far. The alternative is the streets.

· Facilities include playgrounds and outdoor activities. Basketball.

· Home is supported by McCabe and by individual givers, also some churches in Holland.

· Sponsors are not used for individual children – not fair. Money from sponsorship programmes is pooled.

· No funds are received from the Palestinian Authority! Only promises, even though the children are referred through them. No help from UNICEF which would only help through the P.A.

Drove down road from Jerusalem to Jericho.

· Half way down the current modern road is the Good Samaritan Inn!

Turned off modern road to:

Wadi Qelt

· View!. Monastery clinging to cliff in desert above the original road from Jerusalem to Jericho.

Drove on to:

Jericho

· In Area A. One of the first two cities handed over to the new Palestinian authority after the 1984 Oslo peace accord.

· Oldest inhabited city on Earth (though one in Turkey also claims this). 10,000 years old.

· Christian minority is Catholic/Coptic/Greek Orthodox.

· The site of a spring that never dries up.

· Main archaeological site: Tell el Sultan. (Note – might there be others under the town?)

· Excavated Kathleen Kenyon – 23 layers of occupation.

· Farming discovered by sowing wild seeds c8000BC.

· Grew to 2000 people, at that time the largest collection of humans ever.

· First city wall was abandoned mysteriously. Reoccupied 6000BC. Pottery, dairy products.

· 3000BC burnt. Canaanites built new city.

· Major walls destroyed around 1600-1550 – could not be Joshua’s unless Bible dating is revised. Largely abandoned 1550 to 1050BC – no clear evidence of Joshua’s walls in this period. (Could they be elsewhere?)

Drove past:

The Zacchaeus Tree

· 1000 years old. Believed to be an offshoot of the original.

· Not a sycamore!

Drove to:

Beth She’an

· Original Canaanite town on hill (Philistines) not much excavated yet.

· Was the city near Gilboa where King Saul and Jonathan died and their bodies were nailed after the battle to the city wall.

· Later, capital of the Decapolis (Ten Towns) in the time of Christ, and the only one of the 10 on the west side of the Jordan.

· Roman theatre, seats 7000. Theatre closed at back, behind stage, in Roman style (Greek are open at back).

· Theatres only for intellectual plays. Not the same as amphitheatres (small one here, higher up hill) which were for very unpleasant gladiatorial contests.

· Theatre: doors for entering and leaving – vomitoria!

· A well preserved whole Roman town – shopping streets, sports.

Drove to:

Tiberias (and Ron Beach hotel)

· On the shore of Galilee, the local rock is black basalt (floors the lake here)

· A pagan town in Jesus’s time, He would never have set foot here.

· And still the tackiest resort in Israel!

· Known as Sweat City!

· But great sunrises over the Galilean hills.

· Can see all three European species of kingfisher (Lesser Pied Kingfisher; Smyrna or White-breasted Kingfisher; and our own River Kingfisher) along the lakeshore here.

Day G (Sunday 14^th September)

*** Communion on hotel patio beside the Sea of Galilee (Canon Chris and Maureen).

Gospel from Matthew (the “77 times forgiven” story).

Epistle from Romans 4 vv 4-9.

Rest day

· George and Christine took speedboat on the lake! 100 shekels for 30 minutes.

Day H (Monday 15^th September)

Sea of Galilee

· The Sea was much larger in Jesus’s time (extended further up Jordan valley?)

· Now 213 metres below sea level, drops during summer. Level important, must stay between 213 and 217/8m. Van flood in winter. A dam can be opened.

· Not a lot now flows down the Jordan. The site where Jesus was baptised near Jericho is now brown & muddy.

· 12.5 by 8 miles approx. 40 metres deep.

· Most famous fish – St Peter’s fish (named after the tax paying story).

· In Jesus’s time there were 6 cities around the lake, each of 15,000 people (Capernaum, Tiberias, Bethsaida, Chorazin) with a thriving fishing industry. Now only Tiberias is left.

· Galilee, Kinneret, Gennesaret, Tiberias – different names for the lake.

· Galilee water supplies the whole country, even the Negev desert and the Dead Sea area.

Region of Galilee

· Population 1.5 million Arab Israelis & Jews. Many minorities, Druze, Bedouin.

· A more relaxed region than Jerusalem/Judaea, more rainfall.

Drove into hills:

· Passed site of famous battle at the Horns of Hittim where Salad-hin defeated the Crusaders in 1187

Mount Tabor

· One of two possible sites for the Transfiguration (some people think it was on Mount Hermon).

· Byzantines built here, they though this the site. Now Franciscan. Antonio Barluzzi designed church.

· Two chapels in the church (for Elijah and Moses). Moses did not enter the Promised Land – but did he come here??

· Feast of Transfiguration, 6^th August, sun shines through windows onto a mural of Christ.

*** Read the Transfiguration story from Luke. (“Listen to him!”).

Amazing echo of another tour group singing “Turn your eyes upon Jesus” while we prayed in the garden outside.

Drove toward Nazareth:

· Nazareth stands in the hills not far from where they rise sharply from the Vale of Jezreel (the plain of Armageddon) which is the most fertile valley in Israel with wheat and olive plantations etc.

· Approaching Nazareth – the road passes below Mount Precipice, off which the villagers wanted to throw Jesus. High and sheer – a frightening prospect!

Nazareth

· Population of 500 in the time of Christ – 80,000 now! Lower Nazareth – 60,000 Muslims and Christians. Upper Nazareth – new Jewish suburb.

· 4-5 day walk from Jerusalem.

· Key crossroads geographically for trade routes to many countries.

· Nearby was Sepphoris, a city of 30,000 in Jesus’s time (not mentioned in Scripture) – this was the main city of Galilee, an hour’s walk from Nazareth and somewhere eg. merchants would take their wares to.

· All governed by the Roman Empire. The Pax Romana (peace of Rome) meant that anything that threatened the Empire would rapidly be dealt with.

Nazareth village (a reconstruction)

· Olive press – Lives crushed (millstone) then pressed.

· Quality of oil steadily decreased with increasing pressure of the press. The first and best oil was for the Lord – needed little pressure. Then more pressure gives the main oil, useable for any purposes. Then heavy pressure was applied to give the last poor quality oil, suitable only for lamps.

· Carpenter (Greek – tekton) was a general builder, not a modern sort of carpenter. Thus from archi (= master) we get archi-tekton, our word architect.

· Thus would have skills with stone as well as wood.

· Made ploughs, adzes.

· Actors playing roles as in Joseph’s real workshop. Used chisels, sharpening stones, rough sanding stones, a bow saw (tightened by rope; still used by Nazareth carpenters till the last 100 years), drill spun by rope pulled back and forward round a wooden rod.

· Dyes: onions, pomegranate shell, saffron, blue from snail (1 drop per snail!), - most expensive purple used only by emperors.

· Metal from Philistines or Romans (steel, iron) for crude scissors, chisels.

· Sandals – not comfortable!

· Tourist shop – selling widow’s mites at £4 each!

Nazareth replica synagogue (first century)

· There would be 7 scripture readings.

· The last was the important one.

· Only the reader of that was expected then to speak.

· When Jesus was given the scroll of Isaiah (presumably as the 7^th) everyone knew that He was expected to speak.

· What is “Salvation”? Not, for the Jews, the Titanic/ SOS sort of saving life. The Jews wanted saving from hunger/disease/enemies/the Romans.

· But Jesus preached spiritual salvation.

· The people wanted a Messiah to defeat the Romans for them.

· The Messiah must be a king, ie. from David’s line.

· The Nazareth people would have known that Joseph had gone for the census to the city of David (Bethlehem) and was of his royal line.

· So they looked to Jesus. But Jesus spoke of the widow of Zarephath and of Naaman.

· They were non- Jews! Jesus applied the message of salvation to non-Jews. Blasphemy!

· So they tried to throw Him off Mount Precipice.

Church (cathedral) of the Annunciation etc.

· One of the first 4 Byzantine churches to be built, on sites the Byzantines had been told of by the early Greco Roman/Judaeo Christians.

· Destroyed AD 614 by the Persians. Rebuilt by Crusaders then partly destroyed again.

· Rebuilt in 1969 by Muslims, Christians and Jews working together – a good example of co=-operation.

· Under the church in grotto is house believed to be the home of the Virgin Mary.

· Catholics believe Gabriel appeared to her here. Orthodox believe the angel appeared at Mary’s Spring a short way away.

· History note: No very early proof, only tradition.

*** Read Luke 1 – annunciation story

(Nearby) church of St Joseph

· Has crypt underneath believed to be Joseph’s workshop. Has mosaic and a Jewish ritual pool that was later used as a Christian baptistry.

· Between cathedral and church can be seen (underneath the plaza) other genuine old Nazareth excavated buildings.

Synagogue church (fairly small)

· This is a church built by the Crusaders on the site of a long-standing Jewish synagogue believed to have been in continual use until then. Believed to have been the actual synagogue where Jesus grew up and was taught and where He would have read from Isaiah.

*** Read story of above from Luke

Drove past:

Mary’s Spring

· Baptist church opposite!

Drove to:

Cana (Kafr Kanna)

· Probably site of Cana (Byzantine church was built here).

· Smaller than Nazareth now, but was bigger in Jesus’s time – so went there for big wedding.

· Many people now have their marriage vows renewed there.

*** Read Cana marriage story

Day I (Tuesday 16^th September)

Drove to Golan Heights:

Mount Avital

· Half a mile from current Syrian border. UN peacekeeping post – big telescope! (Troops from Finland).

· Can see ruins of old Quneitra from 1967 war, and a Syrian government tank.

· Memorial to site of major tank battle from then.

· New town beyond – Assad’s forces fighting with rebels as we stood there. Told they were ISIS but actually they were Al-Nusra Front, ie. Al Qaeda. Sound of shells/mortar fire. May God in His grace show them mercy and wisdom and bring them peace.

· Great view of Mount Hermon (but sadly no snow on it).

· View of Syrian plain, Damascus only 60 km away.

· Great coffee shop. Weird world…

Drove through:

Druze villages

· Druze flag has 4 stripes.

· 4 Druze villages are now in Israel – people have residency permits, not citizenship.

· They used to commute over border until recently. Loyalty still with Syria.

· Major fruit (apple) production.

· Characteristic dress.

· The Druze (broke away from Muslims long ago) believe in reincarnation, and that you are not accountable for your sins until after the age of 40!

· These Druze, not citizens, do not do Israeli military service. It is compulsory for Jews but not compulsory even for Arabs who do have Israeli citizenship (though about 1 in 10 do do it) From these there are Druze and Bedouin regiments in the Israeli army.

Drove to:

Banias

· Dan, Banias and Hasbani are the three tributaries of the Jordan, fed by the snows of Mount Hermon.

· A holy place to the Druze.

· “Birthplace” of the half goat god Pan.

· Cave dug out and dedicated to him; river emerges naturally below cave.

· Sign saying, do not enter the water!

· Nearby was Caesarea Philippi, built by Herod for his son Herod Philip. Many pagan temples.

· Jesus brought His disciples here and challenged His disciples to recognize His authority and who He was – here of all places, with all of the pagan world to contrast with!

*** Read Matthew 16 vv 13-19.

Renewed our baptismal vows.

Lunch at Kibbutz Hagoshrim.

Drove back

DISCUSSION – Israel and the land

· The Bible and the Jews?

· Religious Jews are driven by the Old Testament. Take the land, becauseit is mentioned in the Bible.

· Should buy, not take!

· War of Independence (1948) after the end of the British Mandate was disastrous for Arabs, etc. (inc. Salim’s family). Huge numbers of Palestinians into refugee camps from which there is no obvious way to return.

· Documented by UN.

· Israelis say the land was never Palestine because it was Ottoman (empire) until 1917.

· Negotiations fail because: 1) Israel very manipulative; 2) Palestinians divided; 3) Palestinian Authority corrupt; 4) Time is in favour of Israel (more settlements, difficult to remove).

· Good factors: Jews and Arabs – have common culture and speak language (some Israelis even speak Arabic at home, having come from Arab counties, eg. Iraq).

· Israel – richer, stronger, well organised, united, have suffered.

· Palestinians – poorer, weaker, less organised, disunited, have suffered.

· Both sides must learn not to extend suffering.

· Palestinians believe that the US, the UK, France and even the UN are on the side of Israel.

· Question: “Can it be true that God gave the land to His chosen people thousands of years ago knowing that the wars of today would be a result that He had allowed for?

Gill’s talk

· Her coming to Christ at age of 50.

· The Congo – amazing!

· God is a God of surprises!

Day J (Wednesday 17^th September)

*** Communion by the Sea of Galilee (in the grounds of the YMCA) (Canon Chris and Paul).

Read 1 Corinthians 13. Love and wisdom.

- Sharing communion by the Sea of Galilee in the morning sun … shaded by palms lade with ripening dates … with Palestine sunbirds, yellow-vented bulbuls and collared and palm doves calling …

Shores of the Sea of Galilee

· Olive products in Jesus’s time – wood, fuel (seed burning).

· Oil for food, lamps, temple anointing, making perfumes.

· Olive leaves very healthy (diabetes).

Drove to:

Church of the Multiplication (Tabgha)

· Judaeo Christians met here from very early on; Byzantine church later (mosaics).

· Place where Jesus sat for the feeding of the 5000.

· German Benedictines – they discovered fifth or sixth century olive presses on this site.

· Area of the Sermon on the Mount (valley, good acoustics)

*** Read story of the 5000.

Multiplication – symbolic: the tininess of Jesus’s mortal life in universal terms – but the immensity of its implication.

Not far to:

Church of Mensa Christi (= table of Christ: where He prepared food for the disciples)

· Jesus appeared after the Resurrection.

· Asked Peter 3 times if he loved Him.

· Jesus came to reassure and inspire them.

· This site identified by one of the first pilgrims in the fourth century as the rock of Mensa Christi.

· A church particular to Peter – where he swam ashore!

Drove to:

Capernaum

· The site of some specific miracles: Peter’s mother-in-law healed; the man lowered through the roof; the man healed from a demon.

· Not the Gadarene story – that happened on the far side of the lake in Decapolis where the people were not Jewish in diet – ate pigs.

· Region where Isaiah’s great light appears in darkness.

· Via Maris (= “the way of the sea”), from Africa to Europe – the key crossroads of the Via Maris were Megiddo, Capernaum and Damascus.

· Capernaum, Chorazin and Bethsaida – the three “cursed towns” of Jesus, which rejected Him despite His miracles.

· Houses and neighbourhood built completely from black basalt.

· Different from most of the country where buildings are of pale limestone (best quarries: Jerusalem, Nazareth and Hebron)

House of Peter

· Franciscan church suspended in mid-air (impressive) – underneath remains are believed to be the house of Peter. Became an early house church (duomo ecclesia?) of the Judaeo Christians.

· History note: Good archaeological evidence that this building was a considered a special place in the mid-first century, very likely it really was what it is said to be.

Capernaum synagogue (quite big building)

· A synagogue was not in Jesus’s time a place of communal prayer; the Temple in Jerusalem was the only place for prayer, sacrifice and offering and this only changed when the Temple was destroyed. A synagogue then was only a place for study, discussion, learning. Had 2 floors, for men and women.

· The original synagogue was built of black basalt – floor level can still be seen at sides; on top is now the existing floor/building of the Byzantine church built of pale limestone later.

· Rock hyraxes amongst the ruins!

· History note: Archaeologists argue big time over this!

Ate St Peter’s Fish for lunch!

Drove to:

Chapel of the Beatitudes

· Modern building, beautiful garden. Short-toed eagle flying over!

*** Read Beatitudes from Matthew

Quote from Chris: “Division can lead to dignity in diversity”.

Drove to:

Galilee Museum & sail

· Did not stop to view the Galilee Boat, excavated from lake floor.

· Boat to Tiberias

· The one place that we can be utterly sure that Jesus really was there – sailing on the Sea of Galilee!

· Did not need to walk!

Day K (Thursday 18^th September)

Drove west:

· Passed the Eshcol Reservoir – water pumped up from Sea of Galilee. Supplies most of country.

· Bet Sharim – one of several places the Sanhedrin used to (and were allowed by Romans to) meet after destruction of Jerusalem in AD70. The Mishnah itself was written in Sepphoris.

Megiddo

· Dwelling began in caves 7000 years ago.

· Destroyed and rebuilt 25 times.

· The prophesied site of Armageddon (the broad plain below). [Note: Napoleon once stood here and said all the armies of the world could manoeuvre here].

· Allenby was here – “Lord of Armageddon”!

· Most important crossroads of the Via Maris

· Became Canaanite then Solomon then Ahab.

· Large round pagan altar dated 2700BC.

· There are Egyptian records of Megiddo from 1400BC.

· One of King Solomon’s chariot cities.

· One of Ahab’s 3 seats of government (along with Samaria and ?)

· Arabs defeated here in 1948.

· Walked through Ahab’s water tunnel! – deep underground.

· Jezreel valley fertile – kibbutzim. Kibbutzes – much better organised than Palestinian Authority who should learn from the kibbutzniks’ communal agricultural and manufacturing skills. Can only become member of a kibbutz after 3 years of work for kibbutz before a special committee may vote you in.

Drove via:

Caesarea – Roman aqueduct

· 9 kilometres long.

Drove to:

Caesarea – Roman city

· First Gentile was converted to Christianity here (Cornelius)

· Place where the Jewish revolt began in 66AD.

· Paul imprisoned here for 2 years.

· Marble floors – all marble in Israel is imported.

· Theatre still in use now – after 2000 years!

Drove to:

Old Jaffa

· Church commemorates Peter having his dream here. Tabitha (Dorcas) raised here.

· View of Tel Aviv. Enormously rich, vibrant city on beautiful beach.

· Old cannons. Final view: Canon Chris sat on a cannon, with cannon to the right of him and cannon to the left of him…

_____________________

With enormous thanks to all! And praise to Him in whose service we journey on.

Many blessings

George B. Hill, Sept 2014