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Multiple domes formed from a variety of rocks, the west facing domes on the south rim are best climbed in the mornings when shaded. A nice introduction to the area can be had with the single pitch climbs on Sentry wall, and moderate grades abound (4th class up to easy 5.anything) on the Red Dome and Silver Dome.
Sentry Wall
Sentry Wall
Approach: Hike in the from the parking area. You arrive on the top of this dome and may rappel down anchors atop 70s ledge, the Slab route, or be lowered down Knobby Face (not to the ground, stop at the start of climbable rock).
Deliverance (5.11) or Damnation (5.12):
Deliverance (5.11) or Damnation (5.12):
Start in a right facing corner where you traverse across the face to another right facing corner and up to a small roof. Pull over the roof and go right up "Damnation" a 5.11+ lieback/finger crack over a headwall (good gear) then climb up a ramp for about 35ft to the top. Or... go left up "Deliverance" a gnarly looking crack (easy) to a hand traverse along an overhanging arete. Pull over the arete (5.11) and clip a bolt (easy, maybe 5.7) to the top. Both start up the same corner system (5.10+?) but go separate ways after the first little roof (maybe easy 5.11 or .10+). A bolted anchor with rappel rings was added in 2018. These can be toproped with two 60m ropes tied together.
FA: Chad Suchoski 2009
Centurion (5.11b cams to 2")
Centurion (5.11b cams to 2")
In the obvious left facing corner seen from the parking area. A crack leads to two bolts which protect a short traverse into a finger crack. The crack quickly turns into an easy dirty chimney which is exited to the left.
FA: Chad Suchoski 2011
Rack Up and Sack Up (5.10c)
Rack Up and Sack Up (5.10c)
Another route I did was on the far right side up a crack and the obvious arete on the south facing side. Climb a .10c finger crack to a horizontal crack. Traverse left along this crack past a piton and onto the arete. Climb 5.8R past a bolt and several horizontal cracks to the top.
FA: Chad Suchoski 2010
Knobby Face (5.6)
Knobby Face (5.6)
Easy climbing difficulty, but approach and anchor setup are heady, so please be safe if you attempt this. The anchor bolts are old and are due for replacement. Start with both climber and belayer atop the climb, lower the climber down to the start of the climbing, STOP LOWERING before the cave and the ground unless you feel like trying the 5.11+ overhanging optional start.
FA: Unknown
Slab Route (5.9)
Slab Route (5.9)
Bolted face on the far left side of the formation, bolted anchors are atop the climb.
SAFETY: Bolts replaced 2018
FA: Unknown
Red Dome Rappel Route
Red Dome Rappel Route
The easiest way to approach the base of the south rim domes, this rappel route requires one 60 meter rope and webbing. Use webbing to back up the rappel rings and anchors present on the dome.
The approach to the top is marked by ducks, then follow the easiest terrain down.
There is a secured rope to assist in one walk-down section, followed by 3rd class down climbing, finally finish with three 30m rappels.
SAFETY: Corgage anchoring the rappel rings replaced May 2013
Red Dome Upstream
Red Dome Upstream
Approach: Hike to the top and descend by rappel route or the gully.
Come Clarity (5.10)
Come Clarity (5.10)
Found on the upstream side, upper left line in photo.
Cams.. 1set, .5" - 2" and some offset nuts.
The first pitch climbs up a horizontal flake close to the ground where you make a short mantle to gain access on the wall. Another bolt and you're off on a wandering odyssey up a sea of wavy granite. A two bolt anchor atop an expanding flake makes the belay. Pitch 2 climbs to a bolt where you head right to a flake with good gear. Climb over a small bulge, clip a bolt then wander up a ways to some gear, a not needed pin and then a gear anchor ( .5"- 3" takes anything) on a narrow ledge between two flakes. The last pitch follows a short seam then goes slightly right to a bolt. A long smooth slab leads to a flake with good gear. Next you head left up some orange ramps staying left until you reach a large low angle section with a short wall just behind it. Belay in the T shaped crack which has a funky placed (but bomber) pin. The last pitch is mostly 5.6 or easier but a bit run out.
FA: Chad Suchoski 2008?
Fear Campaign (5.11d)
Fear Campaign (5.11d)
To the right of Crystal Blue Persuasion, pretty much exactly across from Walk With Me In Hell. This route took me two years to complete as the drilling was rather tedious.
Gear - Cams .3 to .5 plus one #2 BD and RP's or Offset nuts are useful.
Two pitches and goes to the ledge with the rappel tree used on the rappel route. Starts out with a run and jump to a big knob. Mantle the knob and pure friction from there. 7 bolts and a piton.
FA: Chad Suchoski 2013
Crystal Blue Persuasion (5.8)
Crystal Blue Persuasion (5.8)
Center line in zoomed-out photo, credited as West Face on photo topo.
I placed a bolt then headed up and left (5.8) to a roof and some gear. Over the roof/bulge into the corner which took great gear and up a long ways to a great ledge. I placed a two bolt anchor after I built an anchor in a crack just to the left. I placed a pin just for good measure and my cams and nut popped out. Heavily expanding flake it was, so I placed a two bolt anchor next to it. While I was cleaning the first pitch (roped solo) I noticed a pin driven up into the start of the crack. I had missed this pin because I went to the left for a pocket that accepted a #1 C4. Oops, oh well. Maybe I'll go back and chop my bolt, but I'm leaving the anchor. It's probably 5.8 with a killer 5.7 dihedral. The second pitch continues up the corner (5.7) and quickly eases off and heads right to the rappel tree for the descent route.
FA: Jay Smith, J. Taylor Sept. 1977
Red Dome Regular Route
Red Dome Regular Route
Approach: Red Dome Rappel route
On the far right side of the Red Dome just before it turns and heads back up the the gully. It starts in a left facing dihedral next to a pool/waterfall in the river. The first pitch is a clean well protected 5.5/6 corner with a few bulge cruxes then climbs over a short bulge of chockstones to a narrow ledge. The second pitch climbs a right facing corner hand crack which narrows to fingers (5.7) and eventually turns to face climbing. The wall quickly loses its angle and you can build a belay in any number of areas. The last pitch is a short easy pitch which leads to the rappel tree on the descent route.
FA: Chad Suchoski
Juggernaut (5.9?)
Juggernaut (5.9?)
Right of the cave near where the rappel route touches down. Jug-or-Not. Juggernaut. Its pretty obvious why I called it that when climbing it. Well protected with bolts, can be toproped after a lead climb.
Not drawn in below picture, climbs are directly right of the words "4th class" in photo on the "side" of the dome around a cave system. Start is just to the right of the big left facing corner system which is to the right of the rappel route from the tree to the base of Red Dome.
FA: Chad Suchoski 2012?
Anti-Product (5.10)
Anti-Product (5.10)
Left of the cave near where the rappel route touches down, single pitch. Well protected with bolts, can be toproped after a lead climb.
Not drawn in below picture, climbs are directly right of the words "4th class" in photo. Start is just to the right of the big left facing corner system which is to the right of the rappel route from the tree to the base of Red Dome. Anti-Product climbs a slab up to a bulge, then climbs over the bulge and up a highly featured face past several bolts to the top.
FA: Chad Suchoski 2012?
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