Big Dome Routes

Big Dome has the most climbing real estate in the Bear River Gorge, but it is very broken and much more accessible than it may first appear. Gully routes on the upstream wall are best accessed by one of two rappel routes from the rappel tree (yellow approach in photo below)

Sidewalk wall and Hully Gully routes are best approached from the top and downstream side of the dome. With 3rd class hiking skills you can easily make it from the top of the dome to the river and back again. Or you can enjoy some amazing climbing on your way out.

Big Dome rock is rich in quartz, like much of the gorge, and so features are slow to erode and can develop a polished, almost greasy feel. While this is disconcerting to climbers, the features are usually large, so you can find large dishes and scoops on multipitch walls that appear difficult, but in fact have moderate to easy holds on comfortable terrain. Enjoy the epic variety of single and multipitch climbs!

Best climbed in the afternoon when shaded- routes in the bottom of the gorge are shaded around 2 pm, while routes higher up on the Sidewalk wall and Poultry wall are best climbed later, around 3-4 pm.

Schnoz Routes:

Two ski tracks can be approached, with effort, from the base of Hully Gully. Traverse out to the ski tracks ABOVE the lowest roof.

Bonesnapper (5.10)

Yellow on topo

P1: The right track is a bit of runout 5.6 to the roof where a .10+ mantle is needed to surmount it. More 5.6 (even less protected) climbing to the anchors (two bolts).

P2: The next pitch climbs up a steep section past two bolts (5.10?) and continues up over another steep section/roof with great gear. After the roof you can either climb the gully (easy 5th) or climb up the face to the left which i did. Some gear can be found higher up but it's a pretty run out 5.9 slab. A two bolt anchor on a good ledge makes the anchor.

P3: A short third (easy) pitch leads to the top.

FA: Chad Suchoski

The Only Solution (5.10?)

Green on topo

P1: Traverse from the base of Hully Gully on slick rock with undercling until you can pull over the roof (easy blocky spot). Establish a belay. Protects well, but lower rock is slippery from river polish.

ALT P1: Climb up from Hully Gully. Start your climb about 30 feet below the piton anchor for the handline.

P2: Start by climbing up the right dike until you can easily traverse left to the "left" dike. One bolt is placed on the traverse. Runout with minimal protection. Reach 2 bolt belay at left dike.

P3: Good gear and 5.7 climbing all the way to the headwall where a two bolt anchor awaits.

P4: The next pitch I have yet to do, but it is a really dirty slightly overhung hand crack that goes into some sort of wide offwidth and who knows what from there.

Topo from the 1977 ascent available at History. (Possibly another line on this "lowest dome")

FA: R. Harrison Jay Smith August 1977.

Schnozz Direct

Chad climbed the direct face of the shnoz in 2013. Start at the River and climb up to the base of the shnoz feature. 5.10 cracks and face (piton) bring you up onto the main formation. Easy 5th class with tons of cracks for pro lead to the top of the shnoz.

Valkyrie (5.10)

ACCESS: Rappel Silver Dome Downriver Wall.

Located at the farthest downstream part of the Schnozz. Cross the river and climb out.

P1 Starts on blocky ramp on far left side of big arch. Climb a thin seam past a couple bulges (piton) and small flakes to a ledge. Continue up and right past a bolt and crack on the slabby face. Another bolt protects a 20ft runnout 5.5 slab to a big ledge. Two bolt anchor.

P2- mantle a ledge and climb up to a bolt. Bolts and some gear protect the perfect golden granite face above. A beautiful pitch to say the least. Stop on a ledge at a two bolt anchor.

P3- climb up a short grainy section to a big ledge. Clip a bolt and then a piton and climb up the wide corner above. Stop at a nice ledge and build an anchor in the corner.

P4- climb the corner which starts off as beautiful tight hands and quickly deteriorates into a face climb which avoids a mungy corner and eventually brings you back to a groveling, uncivilized, awkwardwidth offwidth. After squeezing through a tight squeeze exit. Follow the crack to a big ledge with two bolts. Easy walk up from there.

FA: Chad Suchoski 2012.

Amamet (5.12a)

ACCESS: Rappel Silver Dome.

Starts on a big chockstone in the river at the base of the right side of a huge obvious arch on the far left side of the Schnoz (Valkyrie dome?)

P1: Climb hard face past a couple bolt protected moves and into the huge left facing corner. Climb the corner until it starts to crown. Exit the corner onto the face to the right (awkward mantle move) to a two bolt anchor.

P2: climb the face above utilizing what gear you can find (5.8X) trending to the right. This pitch could use a retrobolting. I ran out of bolts or I’d have placed a few more. Good wavy granite and big stances. Just spooky with 50ft runouts. End at a big head wall with a splitter finger crack. Build an anchor here.

P3: Climb the splitter crack .10+ to a big ledge on top with a two bolt anchor. Easy 3rd to the top.

F.A. Chad Suchoski and Jonathan Hans 2013.

Poultry Wall

Three great routes on a wall named for the chicken-head like formations all over. Traditional protection requires creativity, so lead only if you are comfortable with this protection. All routes can be toproped with a 60m rope and slingshot belay (climber and belayer at the bottom of the climb).

The wall gets slightly steeper and the features more rounded as you proceed across the wall. Climbers can lower into the routes or walk around (a pretty long way) while someone else sets up the anchors and all is ready to go when you arrive at the base, ready to climb!

FA: Jim Davis et. al 2000?

Leg Up: 5.4-5.7

Simply fun climbing on featured face.

Beware a hole at the beginning that is a tempting hold but regularly houses a small wasp nest.

Leg and Thigh: 5.7

More rounded features and a steeper start make this slightly harder. Anchor is set well back from the edge which can increase rope drag without extensive slings, but allows very comfortable belaying from the top.

A single bolt protects the opening moves if you choose to lead. Carefully slotted nuts or slung knobs might protect the upper moves.

Turkey Gizzard: 5.9

Thin features in the beginning challenge the confidence you build after climbing the other routes on the wall. Look for multiple lines up this climb.

Two bolts protect the hardest moves, creative pro is needed to protect the top of the climb.

Full Quartz Press formation

Full Quartz Press

As you walk from the top of Poultry Wall to the base, you pass a medium side formation with two prominent crack systems trending uphill. The lower system is a fun adventure, while the upper system is a truly challenging climb.

Full Quartz Press (5.8?)

Pro to 4 inches, tricams are useful.

P1: Start at the corner at the right side of the base (river side) of the formation behind some low bushes.

Above the corner to the right is a ramp that heads up the formation. The left side of the ramp is up against a wall that has an easily protectable crack at its base. The crack can be used to lie-back up the ramp.

At the top of the ramp is a sandy area with bushes and trees. Set up a belay here.

P2: The back of the sandy area has a squeeze chimney with lots of quartz knobs at the base (thus the name).

Climb the chimney (~15 ft) to another lie-back ramp.

Go up the ramp to a corner with a flaring crack on the left side.

From here there are at least two ways to go. I traversed left out of the corner and around onto the river-side face of the formation (maybe 5.7). Greg climbed the face to the right of the corner (maybe 5.9). I attempted to climb the corner itself and failed.

Above the corner the climbing eases and it is an easy run to the top of the formation.

P1 and P2 link with a 60m rope, but the rope drag started getting pretty bad around the final corner on P2.

FA: Mark S. and Greg Bonnat October 2013

Routes on the Lower and Upper Sidewalk area

Sidewalk Wall

Located just below and upstream from the Poultry wall, the Sidewalk Wall has over 10 lines (at least 2 are not visible in the photo) that follow scooped moderate terrain and can be lead-climbed or toproped. You can toprope from the four Sidewalk anchor stations (3 have chains or hooks for rappel as well) or hike 2nd and 3rd class terrain down Hully Gully and lead climb the routes with quickdraws and a simple rack.

Lower Sidewalk (5.8-5.10)

The first lines you see as you walk down Hully Gully climb to the Lower Sidewalk. All climbs require quickdraws, one takes a slim rack. All lines can be toproped with a 60 meter rope. The first anchor station, atop Greyline (5.10a) has only hangers, while the second anchor station features mussy hooks for rappel. Walk off left on the sidewalk is an easy possibility when finished for the day.

All lines FA: Todd Offenbacher and co. 2007?

Grey Line (5.10a)

Pro to 1 inch and 3 bolts.

Challenging entry moves, clip the second bolt, then carefully scout out gear placements for protection in the shallow corner. Some pockets left of the corner take pro too. One final bolt after the crack and finish at left anchor station.

Red Route (5.8-5.9)

8 bolts

The first route with a move over the mini- roof. Challenging but fun, and a good warmup climb.

Right on Up (5.9)

7 bolts, one cam (0.5-0.75)

Follow the giant dish and ledges to the mini-roof and pull over with holds to the right. Nice face moves over the dimple field, then finish with a climb up the dihedral, clip bolts on the way. Runout between bolts 4 and 5 protects with a 0.5-0.75 cam (or similar tricam) placed in the deep horizontal crack.

Directional anchor for top-rope can be made with two cams- 1 inch and 2 inch in a crack 8 feet right of the mussy hook anchors.

Upper Sidewalk (5.8- 5.10) These longer climbs (40-60 m) lead to two anchor stations on the upper sidewalk. Once at the top, belay your partner or pull up the rope for 2 single-rope (30 m) rappels back to the gully.

The left hand anchor station features mussy hooks for rappel to the 30m rappel station. The right hand anchor station features Metolius rappel hangers for rappel to the same station. The 30m rappel station has Fixe rap rings on hangers for a clean rappel to the ground. When finished for the day, you can walk off left but beware the short exposed fourth class section.

Bolts and gear. All lines FA: Todd Offenbacher and co. 2007?

Golden Retriever (black line) 5.9

11+ bolts

Simply one of the greatest face climbing pitches here, moves are fun, secure, and challenging. Bolts provide protection, even over the amazing miniature roof. Cannot be toproped from the base. Belay the second climber from the chains then rappel or walk off left.

Michael Boltin' (white line) 5.10b

13 bolts + 0.5 cam

Technical face for 20m then a well protected crux move from solid holds to uncertain terrain. Finish with 30m of 5.8 face climbing up scoops, dishes, and ledges.

Crack-A-Toa aka Golden Piton (grey line in crack) 5.9

3 bolts + gear to 4 inches

The most obvious line and weakness in the face has wonderful climbing- a challenging entrance, face climbing for half a pitch, then deep crack followed by a shallow dihedral seam with great moves on the walls next to the crack. Start on the left leaning block and climb nearly to the top, place a nut, then transition right to the right-facing open book. Continue on through 60m of challenging climbing.

The FA in 1977 continued up the wall with minimal trad protection to the top.

FA: R. Harrison, Jay Smith August 1977

Base of the Wall (5.10-5.11) Reach these lines by traversing in unroped to the ledge system at the bottom of the climbs. All lines FA: Todd Offenbacher and co. 2008-9

Finessa Williams (Red line) 5.10b

12 bolts + gear .5"-3"

Start by ascending the block on the left, then head up the face protected by bolts. Continue through featured dishes, lightly dimpled face, a splitter dihedral (takes gear), and scalloped edges for 60m of great climbing.

Golden Poon (Yellow line) 5.11a

8+ bolts

Just a half pitch climb to the bolt/ rappel station, but slim challenging moves are punctuated with a few "Thank God" holds in this short creation. Named for one of the first ascensionists, J(?) Poon.

Golden Gecko (Grey line) 5.11a

?? bolts

Includes a bolt for the belayer at the base, 5.10 face moves get you up to the roof where an 11a move on slopers over the roof challenges your clean ascent. Possible to exit right to the ledge and bring up a second to enjoy the climbs atop Bugsy's Balcony.

Vertical Sidewalk (obvious dihedral) 5.8 30m

While this wide crack may not look easy, the face is well featured making this trad line an easy lieback ascent up to Bugsy's Balcony. Protects with two 4 inch cams and 8+ large nuts or similar cams.

FA: unknown

Bat Climbs up to Vertical Sidewalk and Bugsy Balcony routes

Bat Climbs

Two routes that ascend about 35 meters from Hully Gully up to the base of the obvious dihedral. Both routes require a single rack and quickdraws. Routes are approached from Hully Gully and can be led with a 60m rope. The first pitches can be toproped from rappel rings but only with a 70m rope.

Bat Left Climb 5.9 30 meters

30m of technical face. Uses about 10 draws and one 0.5 cam or similar nut.

Hard start and climbing varies from high angle to low angle and back again. Move sideways to find the easiest lines, don’t just chase bolts.

FA: Todd Offenbacher and Chris McNamara 2009

Bat Out of Hell (right hand bolt line) 5.9

Bolts and supplementary gear to 3 or 4 inches (4 inch only for a more comfortable belay at end).

Starts on either of two thin cracks that protect well and lead over or around a block (well protected with bolts and gear). Dimpled face continues with two small gear placements (.3- .5 cam or small nuts) and sustained climb to rappel station or 15 feet more to a very comfortable gear stance.

This route connects to the Vertical Sidewalk route, which then leads to Bugsy's Balcony.

FA: Todd Offenbacher and Chris McNamara 2009

Bugsy's Balcony aka Labor Day Routes

Three routes put up by Todd Offenbacher Labor Day weekend September 2009. These lines are only accessible after climbing Golden Gecko or the Vertical Sidewalk half a pitch to the obvious ledge on the right. Bugsy's Balcony is named after Todd O's dog Bugsy who was present for most route establishment on this wall.

Both right hand routes are 5.7 face climbing and can be lead climbed and rappelled back down to the ledge.

Bonsai Climb 5.10c

The leftmost route goes further toward a tree and finishes at established anchor chains.

FA: Todd O 2009?

View from above Bugsy's Balcony looking down to Hully Gully

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