Daffy Dome Routes

Named for the ducks that mark the trail to the dome, and in deference to the great Tuolumne DAFF, Daffy Dome features routes up to 2 pitches long on good friction slab and steep crystalline face.

Morning shade is found on the West Wall (until 11 am) and later afternoon shade is found on the East Wall (around 2:30 pm) and finally on Huckleberry Wall (4 pm to dusk).

Daffy Dome West Wall:

Toprope friendly climbs from 5.5 to 5.12, most are classic slab friction climbing with some fun large features 2-3 times on each route. Well shaded at the base, climbs receive sun from about 11a.m. onward. Well recommended for laps or a day of ticking off every route and variation you can think of.

FA: Unknown at this time. Likely bolted in mid-1990s.

SAFETY: Cordage and rap rings on the Peanut Routes placed 2012.

Daffy Dome East Wall:

The rock is more similar to Big Dome here on the East wall- quartz rich rock means erosion is slow and features weather heavily, leaving scoops and dishes and shelves peppered throughout what would appear to be a severe wall. The start is usually the crux. The east wall usually falls in the shade by around 2:30 p.m.

Approach by following the ducks on the east side of the dome and then hug the base of the dome as you walk around to the East Wall and Huckleberry Wall.

Kalashnikov Crack (5.12b)

Bomb bay chimney to tight fingers to hands. So named because of its loose tolerances. Anchor with gear and a fixed pin up top.

FA: Chad Suchoski 2011

Made In China or 38 Not So Special (5.12)

Two closely spaced bolts protect 5.12 face moves (or maybe try the undercling finger crack to the right?). At the first horizontal seam/ third bolt the difficulties ease to 5.9 climbing.

Easily toproped: Rappel from the bolt station below Kalashnikov Crack to another two bolt station 20 feet below. Set up your toprope from this station.

FA: unknown

Jester Race (5.10c):

Not pictured

Starts atop a large boulder, mostly 5.9 with one well protected 5.10c move. 3 bolts get you up to the headwall. Establish a belay there if you want to avoid rope drag hassles, finish up with the headwall double crack system (5.10c), takes a single rack tips to 2 inches. Finish with a gear station up top.

FA: Chad Suchoski 2011

Signs of a Playground Fading (5.11b):

Approximately area of Yellow line in photo.

Downhill from Jester Race, difficult face (5.11b) characterizes Playground. Four bolts protect the first pitch. Similar to Jester Race, finish with a headwall double crack system (5.10c) and gear station up top.

FA: Chad Suchoski 2011

Never Again aka Rusty Route

FA: Unknown.

First Recorded Ascent: Tim and Andrew Sept. 2011. Lured by a single bolt into unknown territory, we found difficult route finding, unsafe protection, a bees nest behind a flake and all sorts of misadventure. Climbed in 3 pitches. Don't repeat what we did.

Huckleberry Wall

Usually shaded by 4p.m., the Huckleberry wall is lower angle than the steep face found on the West wall and includes many lines that are good for climbers learning to be comfortable on slab and face.

Lieback Too Short: 5.7

6 bolts + gear to 4 inches

One full pitch of face and lieback crack. For the lead, take a rack up to 3", (4" for anchor at top) try to focus on small cams. Trend right when climbing below the lieback, trend up and left after the lieback. The lieback is large at the bottom, but gets narrow (0.5 cam) up higher and deeper in the crack. Can be toproped out of a solid crack with a natural chockstone and a #4 cam for a toprope anchor. Best finished to the right at the top, not the left exit.

Real rope stretcher, right at 60 meters.

Truth is Stranger Than Friction 5.10

A route of a different nature than those just 30 feet away. Climbs directly up the black streak using great friction and lots of small edges and dishes. 300' route has bolts over two pitches. Finish with a bouldery 5.8 headwall and then use the pipe anchors in the gaping crack up above (takes 4-6 inch gear). Cordage replaced on the pipe anchors August 2013. '

FA: Tim Camuti, Bob Dominick Jan 2012

No Snow in January! 5.8 PG-13

Right of the obvious black streak (Truth is Stranger...), climb the edges and ledges using occasional natural protection. Some slightly runout sections over easy terrain; takes the ends of the rack: 00 to 1 inch, 3-6 inches. Routefinding is important here, look for the best line, not always straight up.

300' route, bolts at midway stance. Exit by mantle over the small headwall and anchor to the oak bush above.

FA: Tim Camuti and Bob Dominick Jan 2012

Fiction Friction 5.11

Beginning on the ledge halfway up the Huckleberry wall, Chad's Ledge Route is challenging but well protected 5.11 slab. Begins about 30 feet right of No Snow in January.

FA: Chad Suchoski Summer 2013

Climbing the Lieback that is Too Short

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