Bike Fitting Tips

Bike fitting is a nuanced topic with constantly evolving theories and optimisation. A skilled bike fitter has years of experience and expertise to benefit from and we would always recommend getting a good bike fit with a professional, particularly before spending your well earned money on the latest and greatest set of wheels. To find a bike fitter near you we recommend searching for a certified fitter with the International Bike Fitting Institute. For those eager to learn the fundamentals of bike fit, we've compiled these tips to help get you started. Please be aware that this is not intended to be an exhaustive tutorial on bike fitting, and there are many other factors that come into getting the best fit.

We assume here that we are optimising for a standard road bike position. If you are wanting to transfer to another style of bike then this is still a good starting point, but you may then want to make additional trade offs. E.g. On a mountain bike you may wish to lower the saddle and shorten the reach to the bars for more control and confidence when descending. On a time trial bike you may wish to optimise for aerodynamics and rotate the whole position forwards at the expense of some control and stability.

1. Start with your feet

Of the 3 touch-points on the bike, the pedals are the only points that are in a fixed location. Pedals rotate at the end of the crank arms, (which can vary in length), around the bottom bracket which is a fixed point on the frame. The bottom bracket centre is therefore the best reference point to measure all other positions from and is typically used as (0, 0) to measure X and Y measurements from. It is also therefore important to set cleat position first, before moving on to saddle position and then handlebar position.

Whilst there are many opinions on variations and optimisations, a good starting point is to centre the cleat between the 1st and 5th metatarsal. You can feel for the widest bony part on each side of the foot and locate the centre of the cleat between the two. Use masking tape to mark the position on your shoes. Set the angle of the cleats to enable natural movement of the leg, ideally the knee should track up and down in a straight line. If this results in heels rubbing the crank arm, it can be avoided by adding washers on the pedals, or if more space is needed the pedal axles can be changed for longer ones to increase what is commonly referred to as the Q factor.

Comfortable, well fitting cycling shoes and insoles are essential for serious riders. On long rides hot spots may develop if shoes are slightly too large. An experienced bike fitter can also advise on the most appropriate insoles and foot wedges. This is an advanced subject and should only be considered once a good general position on the bike has been established

2. Your saddle is too low (maybe)

I’d estimate that over 80% of the bike fits I’ve carried out have resulted in the rider's saddle being raised, sometimes quite significantly. Therefore, chances are if you have never had a bike fit, and have set your saddle position non-scientifically, it is most likely that it is on the low side. Addressing the basics, saddle position should be determined relative to the pedal position rather than the floor, and a rider should be able to feel like they are able to push effectively through the whole pedal stroke. A high saddle will result in you feeling like you are not able to push as effectively at the bottom of the stroke. There should be a small bend in the knee when the foot is at the bottom.  

3. Don't under estimate Saddle Setback

Saddle setback determines your balance point on the bike and plays a critical role in achieving a comfortable, efficient, and powerful riding position. A common mistake with beginners is to move the saddle forward so that the handlebars can be reached correctly. This can lead to the rider's centre of mass being brought forward, resulting in more pressure being put on the hands and potentially resulting in shoulder/back/arm pain. Counterintuitively, the rider feels like they are off balance falling forward and then try to move the saddle forward further, compounding the issue further. Instead the saddle should be moved backwards just to the point where the rider feels that they have minimal pressure on the bars (whilst pedalling). Then a shorter stem can be used to bring the handlebars to the correct reach. This can be tested by determining if the rider can easily hold their hands above the bars without having to move their weight around on the saddle, best done on a stationary trainer.

4. Find the centre of your saddle

Saddles come in many shapes and sizes and measuring and comparing the position of two different saddles is a non-trivial task. When attempting to measure and replicate a position, consistency is key, so providing you always use the same method you should be ok. That is, assuming that all of your saddles are the same, (or at least very similar) shape. Ideally measurements can be taken from the centre of the saddle, but how to identify the centre is not consistent between manufacturers. Some will mark a centre on the saddle rails but many do not. There is however a growing consensus in the industry to standardise on the saddle centre being at the point where the saddle measures a particular width. Selle Italia and a few other manufacturers are now using a reference of 70mm width. This is why our tool is set as standard to measure saddles at the 70mm point. [See ID Match for more info] Some bike fitters use 80mm instead, however as stated before the important point is to ensure consistency.

5. Be realistic about your flexibility

Adjust your handlebars so that you can comfortably use the hood and drop positions. If you have a very aerodynamic position on the drops, but spend 99.9% of your time riding on the hoods then you are not benefitting from the aerodynamic position and  it's likely that your bars are too low. Ensuring that the drops position of the bars are in an appropriate position for you will enable you to use them more.  

6. Move your brake levers

Once the rest of your bike is set up adequately, consider the location of the levers. Ideally your wrists should be in a natural and relaxed straight position, rather than twisted upwards or downwards. If necessary loosen the lever and move them up or down around the curve of the bar. You may also want to adjust the rotation of the bars in the stem to ensure a nice transition between the bar and the hoods.

New Mountain bikes frequently have brake levers in a non-optimal position, often positioned right up against the grips. Move your levers inwards so that they can be comfortably reached with your first finger, (which is normally all you need with the power of the latest disc brakes). Once brakes are set you can adjust the location of the gear levers to ensure that they are also easily accessible without having to change hand position.

7. Find your brake lever reach adjustment screw

All top end, and the majority of mid-priced group sets now have brake lever reach adjustment. Normally these screws are well hidden and need to be reached with a small allen key. Research your levers online and ensure they are adjusted to be within easy reach. When adjusting the reach also check that the levers do not touch the bars. 

8. Prioritise quality components where it counts

Your enjoyment of the time spent on your bike is greatly influenced by the touch points you experience. It’s worth investing in these components due to the direct impact they have on your comfort. Saddles and shoes are normally a priority, but frequently bar tape/grips, bar shape and gear/brake levers are overlooked, it’s worth experimenting with different styles and brands to find what you prefer as there is a huge variety of designs and qualities available.

9. Try test saddles

The only truly effective way to find which saddle is best for you is to try them. Most manufacturers supply good bike shops and many bike fitters with demo saddles, and this is a great way to test a variety. After a while you will get to know which style of saddle suits you best, and can narrow your selection down. Many manufacturers sell saddles with multiple widths, and many have cut-outs in the centre that allow for more pelvic rotation. Once you’ve found a solution that works well for you, stick with it unless you are experiencing a problem.

10. Measure your position

Once you have found a good position, measure the relative location of the saddle and your hand position (and optionally the handle bars) from the centre of the bottom bracket, the best way to do this is using x,y measurements.  Our measurement tool is designed to make this task easy and repeatable, but you can also use a tape measure, and plumb line or laser level. Our free app allows you to store the measurements for all of your bikes.

11. Get a fit before you buy a bike!

Many experienced cyclists will be able to tell you about the high spec bike they found with an amazing discount, that didn’t turn out to be such a bargain once they started riding seriously, and discovered that it was not the correct size or geometry for them. It’s easy to look at the glossy magazine ads promoting the latest pro team race bikes and be convinced that this bike will make you faster. Unfortunately the reality is that if these bikes do not provide the correct range of adjustment for you to get an optimal position, you will not be riding at your maximum potential, and could even be in pain after riding for a few hours. At a minimum, ensure that you purchase a bike from a retailer who can do at least a basic sizing fit. Ideally see a specialist beforehand so that you can give your fit requirements to your retailer, they can then ensure the bike is appropriate and set it up perfectly for you.