Technical Aspects

Don’t let all the buttons intimidate you! Think of your camera body as a bike: once you know where the "steering handles" and "brakes" are, everything else becomes intuitive. While the video uses a Nikon D5500, these functions are standard across almost every brand (Canon, Sony, etc.). In OPSS, we would be using the Nikon D3300.

Parts of the DSLR (Nikon D3300)

Camera Body

This is the main housing that holds the sensor, the mirror, and the computer that processes your images.

Camera Lens

The "eye" of the camera. Lenses are detachable. They determine how much of the scene you see and how sharp the image is.

On/Off Switch

Usually located on the top of the camera near the shutter button (Nikon)

Zoom Ring

The large, rotating rubber band on the lens.

Turning it physically moves the glass inside to make your subject look closer (Zoom In) or further away (Zoom Out).

Art Tip: Always turn the camera off before removing the lens to prevent dust from being statically attracted to the sensor.

Mode Dial

The "Command Center" wheel on top of the body. It tells the camera how much help you want.

Auto (Green Icon): The camera does everything.
Manual (M): You control the light yourself.

Viewfinder

The little window you look through. In a DSLR, you are looking through a series of mirrors directly out of the lens—what you see is exactly what the lens sees.

Lens Release Button

A round button located on the front of the camera body, right next to the lens.

How to use: You must press and hold this button to unlock the lens before twisting it off.

Focus Mode (AF / MF Switch)

Located on the side of the lens itself.

AF (Auto Focus): The camera finds the focus when you press the shutter halfway.
MF (Manual Focus): You turn the thin "Focus Ring" on the tip of the lens yourself to get the image sharp.

The Exposure Triangle: Aperture, Shutter Speed, & ISO

Think of these three settings as a "balancing act." If you change one, you usually have to adjust the others to keep the light perfect.

Aperture (The "Pupil")

Aperture is the hole inside the lens that lets light in.

What it does: Controls Brightness and Depth of Field (Blurry backgrounds).
The Numbers (f-stops):

Small f-number (f/1.8): Huge hole, lots of light, blurry background (great for portraits).

- Large f-number (f/22): Tiny hole, less light, everything is sharp (great for landscapes).

Shutter Speed (The "Eyelid")

How long the camera's "eye" stays open.

What it does: Controls Brightness and Motion.
The Numbers:

Fast (1/1000): Blinks instantly. Freezes action (a splashing water drop).

- Slow (1/2 or 2"): Stays open. Blurs motion (streaky car lights at night).

ISO (The "Sensitivity")

How sensitive the sensor is to light.

What it does: Artificially brightens the image when you don't have enough light.
The Trade-off:

Low ISO (100): Best quality, very clean images. Use in sunlight.

- High ISO (3200+): Allows you to shoot in the dark, but adds "Noise" or "Grain" (tiny dots that make the photo look fuzzy).

What should you set your mode dial to if you wish to adjust your shutter speed, aperture, and ISO?

Manual Mode (M)

Best for: Total creative control.
What you can adjust: Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO.
On the Nikon D3300:

Turn the Command Dial to change Shutter Speed.

- Hold the Exposure Compensation (+/-) button and turn the dial to change Aperture.

Semi-Automatic Modes

If you don't want to manage everything at once, use these:

Aperture Priority (A): You set the Aperture and ISO; the camera automatically chooses the Shutter Speed. (Best for blurry backgrounds)
Shutter Priority (S): You set the Shutter Speed and ISO; the camera automatically chooses the Aperture. (Best for freezing motion)

Note: On the Nikon D3300, you can adjust ISO in any of these modes by pressing the ‘i’ button on the back of the camera and navigating to the ISO setting on the screen.

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