First, you will have to obtain your replacement pump. Determining what size your jet pump(s) are can be rather confusing at first glance as they look very similar. To properly determine the size, check the tag placed on the side of the motor with the AMP Rating.
There will usually be two values (ex. 16.4 A / 4.8A as pictured) this simply means that the pump draws 16.4 amps on high speed and 4.8 amps on low speed.
Values of 12.0 to 10.0 / 5.0 to 2.0 are considered a 4HP pump
Values of 10.0 to 7.0 / 4.0 to 1.0 are considered a 3HP pump
Circulation pumps are found in Self Cleaning Tubs only and are much smaller than the jet pumps also present.
"Large" Circulation pump (2017 and newer)
"Small" Circulation pump (2017 and earlier)
#2 Philips screwdriver or 7/16" wrench to detach pump from the base of the hot tub.
Oil filter pliers or a strap wrench to remove the threaded pump connections.
Flat screwdriver to remove wire cover and ground wire.
Needle nosed pliers to remove cord clips.
Sometimes the pump may be hard to access. Remove insulation or panels which may obstruct access to the pump being replaced to ensure an easy replacement.
Ensure you have all required tools prior to starting the replacement as some water will continue to be lost despite closing the valves.
Closing these valves will isolate the pump allowing you to replace the pump without draining the hot tub. Push the valves closed about 95% of the way.
If the valves are rather old, sometimes they can become stuck in the 'closed' position. You do not want it to become stuck as the only fix is to replace the valve. Therefore, it is better to lose a little bit of water instead.
Turn these connections counter clockwise with Oil Filter Pilers or a strap wrench. Ensure you don't loose the o-rings from each connection.
Use either the #2 phillips screwdriver or 7/16" wrench to remove the fasteners securing the pump to the floor.
Carefully remove the pump from the cabinet with the power cord and copper ground wire attached. Unscrew the ground terminal and disconnect the ground cord.
Most jet pumps are two speed units, with the low speed used for filtration and heating cycles. Two speed 240V pumps have 4 wires: red, black, white, and green. Red is normally low speed, and black high speed. The white wire is common and the green is ground. Single speed 240V pumps will have only 3 wires, normally red, white and green.
Verify the wiring diagram and colors prior to disconnecting the cable so you know how to install it on the new pump. Take a photo of the connections with your smartphone for reference.
Refer to the wiring diagram on the side of the pump to find where to plug your connectors to the new pump. Follow the same color coding as the original pump.
Re-attach ground wire to grounding terminal before installing the pump if possible. You may have to wait until the pump is in it's final position if there isn't very much slack in the cable.
Ensure the o-rings are still installed on the pump connectors.
Loosely connect the water connections and base fasteners. Make sure everything lines up nicely before completely hand tightening water connections.
Install the bolts / screws into the base to secure pump
Once the base is secured, tighten the water connections with Oil Filter Pilers.
If you do not have safety clips or have misplaced them, you must wrap the shaft of the valve in tape to prevent it from closing on its own.
Check for leaks at water connections.
Turn the GFCI 'ON' and ensure the pump works on all speeds (if applicable).
Visually and physically inspect the water connections on the pump to ensure there are no drips or leaks. If leaks are present, ensure o-rings are still present then continue to tighten connections.
If you hear humming when engaging the pump and water is not flowing, you either have an Air Lock or the pump is wired incorrectly. Contact us for help on further troubleshooting.