Sustainable Fashion and Fibers

The common synthetic fibers found in the majority of textiles today are not biodegradable, meaning, clothes stay in landfills for 20-200 years (Rana, Pichandi, Parveen, & Fangueiro, 1970).
Natural plant fibers are great sustainable alternatives for fashion. When thrown out, it will only take 1-5 months for the textiles made by these fibers to biodegrade (Rana, Pichandi, Parveen, & Fangueiro, 1970).
Over half of clothing that is disposed of ends up in landfills while less is turned into energy or recycled.
Large retail companies are contributors to textiles in landfills to keep their "image". Few reasonable efforts are made to recycle clothing.
Greenwashing is a type of marketing clothing stores use to make their product more environmentally friendly.
Sustainable Business Models are clothing stores that make their clothes in a sustainable manner, including the materials used and how the product is made.
Our impact makes a difference! We can live more sustainably by donating clothes, reusing clothing for other purposes, and advocating for the use of more sustainable materials.

Materials

https://www.close-the-loop.be/en/phase/3/end-of-life#:~:text=NON%2DBIODEGRADABLE%20FABRICS,between%2020%20to%20200%20years

Common Materials

Water (1 pair of jeans = 3625 liters of water)
Synthetic Fibers: polyester, acrylic, viscose, polyamide, nylon, spandex, latex, and rayon
- When clothing made from these materials are washed they release micro-plastics into water ways
- Take a long time to biodegrade; overtime release toxic pollutants which can be serious threats for organisms living in the soil or water
Chemicals: chlorine bleach, formaldehyde, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), per-fluorinated chemicals (PFCs), and ammonia
- These harmful chemicals end up in the waterways of communities that have major textile industries
- Often, workers of textile industries are exposed to these harmful chemicals (Gwozdz, Steensen Nielsen, & Müller, 2017)

Sustainable Alternatives

Biosynthetic Fibers: Poly Lactic Acid (PLA), soybean protein, casein, alginate, chitin, & chitosan
- Partially made of manmade and natural plant fibers (Gwozdz, Steensen Nielsen, & Müller, 2017).
- Can often be recycled
Natural Plant Fibers: cotton, flax, hemp, jute, sisal, coir, & bamboo
- These fibers are biodegradable
Recycled and reclaimed fibers: recycling and reusing fibers from old clothes

The Afterlife of Clothing

(EPA, 2019)

Landfill

These clothes are thrown away and left to decompose in a landfill which can take 20 to 200 years for syntheic fibers. The EPA estimates 5% of all landfill space is textiles. In 2017, 66% of all textiles were put into landfills.

Combustion with Energy Recovery

This process includes burning the clothing and recovering energy from the burning waste (textiles). In 2017, 18.8% of textiles were used for energy recovery from combustion.

Recycle

Clothes that are recycled can either be donated, repurposed, or resold. In 2017, 15.2% of textiles were recycled.

What do large retail companies do with clothing that doesn't sell, even at a discounted rate?

Market clothing in other countries as different trends become popular at different times in different countries.

Sell clothing to discount stores such as TJ Maxx and Burlington for them to sell at further discounted rates.

Donate clothing to third world countries. In theory this may sound like a good idea but actually ends up hurting that country's economy.

Destroy their clothing to avoid ruining the brands "image". The clothes can be destroyed by incernation, cutting, or ripping. Clothes that are cut or ripped are tossed in the trash and end up in the landfill.

(Lane, 2017)

Greenwashing

Greenwashing is the process of companies conveying a false impression to persuade the public into believing the products sold are more environmentally sound.

(Cooper et al., 2020)

Many fast-fashion companies use greenwashing to make consumers feel better about shopping at their store. They advertise that their products are "environmentally friendly," however, they have no proof to back up their claims.

(Cooper et al., 2020)

Examples of Companies using Greenwashing

H&M

Lululemon

How to spot Greenwashing

Company makes environmental claims but does not hold up to those claims
Look at figures and numbers to support company's claim of sustainability
Never take a company's impressive statements at face value
Be wary if the company is not open to or does not share its environmental progress

(Finch, 2020)

Sustainable Business Models

What does it mean for clothes to be sustainable?

Sustainnable clothing refers to fabrics, from resources that are eco-friendly, which are made, distributed, and used in ways that are environmently conscious.

(Henninger, Alevizou, & Oates, 2016)

Patagonia

Uses recycled materials
Implements greenhouse gas emissions reduction activities
Some of supply chain is certified by FLA Workplace Code of Conduct
Received 51-60% on the Fashion Transparency Index

Pact

Located in the USA
Uses certified organic cotton
Limits chemicals, water, and wastewater used
Member of Fair Trade USA
Ensures payment of living wages through most of supply chain

(Good On You: Store Ratings, 2020)

Outland Denim

Organic cotton
Nontoxic dyes
Limits chemicals, water, and wastewater used
Creates employment opportunities for women who have been trafficked in Cambodia

What can we do?

Grand Valley

Organize clothing drives on campus
Advocate for sustainable sports jerseys
Join an organization such as Environmental Coalition Club

Grand Rapids

Shop locally & support small businesses

Clothing Matters (https://www.clothingmatters.net/)

https://grkids.com/donating-in-grand-rapids/

Michigan

Push for legislation of sustainable materials
Regulation of pesticides and chemicals in clothing
Green taxation
https://michigan.dressforsuccess.org/

Stakeholder Map

Systems Map

"Fashion trends come and go, but reducing the amount of material that enters landfills never goes out of style."

~Emily Freeman, Recycling Specialist for EGLE

References:

Cooper, M., Wirth, J., Fenningdorf, N., Ducott, W., Berenbaum, M., & Readers, O. (2020, March 04). Fashion companies use greenwashing to lie to consumers. Retrieved November 11, 2020, from http://dailyorange.com/2020/03/fashion-companies-use- greenwashing-lie-consumers/

End of life. (n.d.). Retrieved November 11, 2020, from https://www.close-the-loop.be/en/phase/3/end-of-life

Finch, J. (2020, June 24). What Exactly Is Greenwashing In Fashion & How Can I Spot It? Retrieved November 11, 2020, from https://www.refinery29.com/en-gb/what-is-greenwashing-fashion

Good On You: Store Ratings. (2020). Retrieved November 11, 2020, from https://directory.goodonyou.eco/?_ ga=2.81286103.1359161467.1605121704-1577646212.1605121704

Gwozdz, W., Steensen Nielsen, K., & Müller, T. (2017, May 06). An Environmental Perspective on Clothing Consumption: Consumer Segments and Their Behavioral Patterns. Retrieved November 11, 2020, from https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/9/5/762/htm

Henninger, C., Alevizou, P., & Oates, C. (2016, October 03). What is sustainable fashion? Retrieved November 11, 2020, from https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/JFMM-07-2015-0052/full/html

Rana, S., Pichandi, S., Parveen, S., & Fangueiro, R. (1970, January 01). Biodegradation Studies of Textiles and Clothing Products. https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-981-287-110-7-4

Lane, H. (2017, October 27). What happens to clothing that goes unsold? Retrieved November 11, 2020, from https://www.redress.com.hk/updates/2017/10/20/what-happens-to-clothing-that-goes-unsold#

Textiles: Material-Specific Data. (2019, October 30). Retrieved November 11, 2020, from https://www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures- about-materials-waste-and-recycling/textiles-material-specific-data

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